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I've been having bad luck with my MMCX connections lately. I had one shear off and leave half the connector inside the plug, and one that got pulled by the wire and so it left the connector bit in the socket but pulled the wire and the pin out. To fix that last one, I moved the VTX closer to the antenna so the antenna wire is always pushing into the socket. Problem solved! Until 24 seconds into the first flight this morning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8IP9oIWexw The antenna wire pushed hard enough for the VTX to tilt up and short against the carbon fiber frame. It went out so fast I couldn't figure out what happened, then I got one or two frames of video and I was like 50m up and I tried to bring it back. Finally, as if to say "Are you panicking enough yet?" I got a second's worth of video just in time to avoid a tree. Landed, no damage  You guys gotta stop talking about all the fun you're having with your whoops. I'm still only 1.5 weeks into the Banggod tracking 
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Sep 19, 2019 19:51
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CapnBry posted:You guys gotta stop talking about all the fun you're having with your whoops. I'm still only 1.5 weeks into the Banggod tracking I feel ya. I'm super eager to start hot-rodding my Trashcan but don't want to start on it until my UR65 arrives...
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Sep 19, 2019 20:16
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Is this a decent starting rig.. Eachine X220 It comes with a radio, FlySky I6. Also, with the DJI RE goggles - I think I'll be able to record the camera since they have room for an SD card - True?
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Sep 19, 2019 20:50
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I thought I made some progress today.... Click to judge my solder joints. But yeah, the ESC is backwards so I get to re-do them all
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Sep 19, 2019 23:31
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CloFan posted:I thought I made some progress today.... Good job. You could use a lot more flux from the look of it, maybe a bit more solder on the + and - wires too. You don't have to resolder though. Those quadrants are just numbered for convenience. If you pop out the wires on the end of the harness you can just swap the order so it matches what your FC is expecting and betaflight won't know the difference. Plug ESC 3 > FC 1 ESC 4 > FC 2 ESC 1 > FC 3 ESC 2 > FC 4 I do this all the time because I prefer my power leads to go forward towards the camera where I have a bunch of empty space and not backwards where my RX and VTX go. EDIT: you could also just unbolt your motors and flip the whole thing over bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Sep 19, 2019 |
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Sep 19, 2019 23:42
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Oh poo poo, unbolting motors is genius. Better to fight the locktite then redo all that. Repinning could work too but yeah I was wanting the power leads out the back.
CloFan fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Sep 19, 2019 |
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Sep 19, 2019 23:50
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CloFan posted:Oh poo poo, unbolting motors is genius. Better to fight the locktite then redo all that. I could remap it, but the way the camera bracket fits in the frame it needs to rotate. Just FYI you might end up having to swap the connector wires anyways if you're mixing ESC and FC brands because the pinouts are sometimes 1234 on one component and 4321 on the other. Pay attention to where that VCC wire is going. I didn't mean remap your motors in betaflight or anything, that turns into a HUGE pain in the rear end when you flash new firmware and forget about your fancy boy custom motor mapping, so you're fighting gremlins of your own creation for 2 days. 
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Sep 19, 2019 23:56
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CloFan posted:I thought I made some progress today.... More flux. Get a little tub of it, put a little bead (3mm?) on each joint, reheat while holding the wire with tweezers. Each joint will pop into a perfect shiny round ball. Clean all the black crap afterwards with a QTip and rubbing alcohol.
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Sep 20, 2019 15:52
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Got the board turned around, ended up desoldering anyways. Didn't take as long as I expected, and it gave me the chance to clean up some of those connections. Even though I'm using the Diatone stack, I still have to re-pin the wire since the motors aren't in the right order after testing today But, great news! It works and no smoke: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mNtRovkmc8 CloFan fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Sep 21, 2019 |
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Sep 21, 2019 02:43
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porktree posted:Is this a decent starting rig.. Only if you get it secondhand for dirt cheap, which is got I started. I got a full Wizard X220 RtF setup (VR007 goggles, FS-i6 transmitter, lovely 2-3S charger that takes 4 hours) used on eBay in 2017 for $170. For that back then, it was a really good deal for getting started, but as with many Eachine products, I felt like a bunch of the parts needed to be upgraded for the quad to be usable. The stock camera was the worst I have ever seen to date with really narrow FOV combined with no dynamic range. The horizon would completely black out any time the sky came into frame and the view was so narrow I had no peripheral vision or any idea how close I was to any objects ahead of me. Considering this was my first FPV experience, this made something that was already potentially nervewracking into a nonstop anxiety-fest any time I went out to go fly. Switching to a name brand camera with a 2.1mm lens immediately made flying feel much more natural. These days, the X220 is way out of date in just about every way. The motors are 2205 when 2207/2306 is considered standard for 5", the flight controller is F3 with no OSD and lacks an integrated PDB (which complicates the build and is a waste of vertical space on any quad with discrete ESCs), the camera is 2.8mm CMOS when 1.8-2.1mm CCD is ideal (excellent CMOS cameras exist, but jello handling is really important at this size), and it comes with a 3S battery when it needs at least 4S to minimize bounceback and for the PIDs to be effective in general. The VTX is a basic VTX with hit-or-miss performance, but lacks SmartAudio, which is considered standard on all models now. Even the frame is somewhat outdated because it's designed for a full-sized FPV camera when most people in the hobby have moved to micros. In 2019, there are so many better options out there that will ultimately cost you the same amount of money. The kit you listed might be $170, but you'll be spending $25 on a better camera, then another $20 on an F4 OSD flight controller, and then maybe another $15 on a VTX if the stock one ends up being a dud. For that price, you may has well get an iFlight Nazgul5, a SkyStars Star Lord 228, or maybe consider starting with a 2-3" quad since those are still ridiculously fast and have excellent models starting at around $120 (Diatone GT R249, R249+, EMAX Babyhawk R). I see that the Fullspeed Leader 3SE is on sale for $100 right now. The FlySky FS-i6 and i6X are good, basic radios with surprisingly nice feeling gimbals, but if you do get a micro, you will probably want to go with a FrSky radio since I don't think FlySky has any full range diversity receivers that are small enough to fit inside a micro like the XM+ can. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Sep 21, 2019 |
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Sep 21, 2019 22:39
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Finally got my Buzz back from Emax. Turns out one of the ESCs was defective. Obviously I had to put a pac through it to celebrate, but Oklahoma winds are not friendly to drones. This is what flying in sustained 20mph winds with 35+ gusts looks like to a novice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAx9nOgt7MI Alternative pants fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Sep 22, 2019 |
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Sep 22, 2019 03:37
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bring back old gbs posted:good news, that's called a uFL connector, and they make those mico Axii's I mentioned in that format. So you can just pop your old one off, and put the new one on. Thanks a ton! I swapped one of the Foxeers on and saw significantly better reception as I rounded my house. Sadly I can't say how much further as I lost my last clockwise prop in an immediate crash. I was able to tape it down and ziptie the end to the frame and it feels much more secure than the tiny bit of garbage they shipped it with.
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Sep 22, 2019 22:18
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bring back old gbs posted:For this same reason, owning a 3D printer is a godsend. You think it's for printing gopro mounts and arm bumpers, but it's really for when you want a custom piece of plastic that connects this random banggood purchase to this other unknown component but also mounts to a 30x30 stack and has little ziptie holes you can connect your VTX antennas to. And it's just one piece, and it fits perfectly and you made it yourself and it didn't even exist an hour ago you're the only person on earth with that part   I am done with my first build! I love it. 
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Sep 23, 2019 01:36
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Zorilla posted:In 2019, there are so many better options out there that will ultimately cost you the same amount of money. The kit you listed might be $170, but you'll be spending $25 on a better camera, then another $20 on an F4 OSD flight controller, and then maybe another $15 on a VTX if the stock one ends up being a dud. For that price, you may has well get an iFlight Nazgul5, a SkyStars Star Lord 228, or maybe consider starting with a 2-3" quad since those are still ridiculously fast and have excellent models starting at around $120 (Diatone GT R249, R249+, EMAX Babyhawk R). I see that the Fullspeed Leader 3SE is on sale for $100 right now.
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Sep 23, 2019 15:00
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Where in Europe can I order spare blades like these https://www.horizonhobby.com/main-rotor-blade-set%3A-nano-s2-p-blh1305 I can't order from there as shipping will cost 50 euros wtf.
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Sep 24, 2019 16:23
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Sininu posted:Where in Europe can I order spare blades like these https://www.horizonhobby.com/main-rotor-blade-set%3A-nano-s2-p-blh1305 I don't know anything about this store but I just searched google for the part name: https://www.align-trex.co.uk/main-rotor-blade-set-nano-s2-z-blh1305.html
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Sep 24, 2019 16:29
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Rexxed posted:I don't know anything about this store but I just searched google for the part name: I figured out that Horizon has separate european site as well. Should've found out about it earlier...
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Sep 24, 2019 16:40
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After a recent crash I think the camera is busted on my Trashcan but I'm not sure how to easily test it. It's a Caddx Turbo Eos2. When I power up my whoop I get a black screen with my OSD on top of up. I presume this means my vtx and googles are fine (or I would just have static) and the FC is ok since the OSD is working. That just leaves the camera. I've tried reseating it a few times (it's on a tiny little plug just like the motors) and seen no change in behavior. I do'nt have other drones or really know anyone around who's into it that could help me out so I guess I have to just order a new camera and hope for the best? If that's the case, anyone have a suggestion for a replacement camera? Looks like $15 to replace this one but I"d be fine spending up to maybe twice that if it's a noticeable upgrade.
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Sep 27, 2019 02:55
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Bolange posted:After a recent crash I think the camera is busted on my Trashcan but I'm not sure how to easily test it. It's a Caddx Turbo Eos2. When I power up my whoop I get a black screen with my OSD on top of up. I presume this means my vtx and googles are fine (or I would just have static) and the FC is ok since the OSD is working. That just leaves the camera. I've tried reseating it a few times (it's on a tiny little plug just like the motors) and seen no change in behavior. I do'nt have other drones or really know anyone around who's into it that could help me out so I guess I have to just order a new camera and hope for the best? Sounds like every dead camera I've ever dealt with. I even had one that still said "FOXEER" on startup, but there was no video and the board got really hot after several seconds (so maybe an internal short in the image sensor). Take the vinyl cover off the back of the camera and inspect the wiring going to the board. Despite plenty of lacquer covering the solder points, I had a video wire eventually come off my KingKong ET125's camera board after crash #85. The only two nano cameras I know of that have the side screw mounts that fit the canopy are the Caddx EOS2 and the Runcam Nano2, and the EOS2 is a bit cheaper. If it were me, I'd get another EOS2, but use this as an opportunity to get the 4:3 version since it has better FOV.
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Sep 27, 2019 04:03
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Sininu posted:Where in Europe can I order spare blades like these https://www.horizonhobby.com/main-rotor-blade-set%3A-nano-s2-p-blh1305 https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/313545/ https://www.rcheli-store.de/RC-Heli...c=44518&p=44518
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Sep 27, 2019 09:21
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Got to fly with some other folks in OKC today. First time flying with multiple birds in the air, definitely played it safe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WABJk0g6pko
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Sep 28, 2019 19:52
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Getting to the end of my work day, and I remember I left my parallel board plugged into my battery check on discharge mode, because I didn't get up early enough to fly. 6x new 300mah 3s. Wondering if they are or will be dead when I see them next. E: miraculously 3.75v, when the last time I forgot a single 350mAh it was 0v in 6 hours. Corky Romanovsky fucked around with this message at 13:51 on Sep 30, 2019 |
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Sep 30, 2019 09:28
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Having fun crashing my trashcan but I think I want to change the control curve on my throttle. I'd like for it to be less sensitive/twitchy in the hover range but still allow full range of motor. It looks like I can configure that a few different places, either radio (Jumper T16) or in the flight controller itself (maybe that's pitch and yaw only though?). Which approach is generally considered 'correct'? Also, I have a billion different switches on this transmitter and I'm not really sure what I can/should bind to all of them. I have one set to activate, one to switch between acro/horizon/angle mode, and one that I've set to toggle on a 60% max throttle cut for indoors (though maybe adjusting the curve could eliminate a need for this). Looks like some people wire up buzzers and put that on a switch too. What other interesting things are you guys binding to these switches?
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Oct 1, 2019 01:52
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Motor buzzer is really helpful. Looks like you tweak the volume of battery power up and beeper when flashing/configuring the ESCs (at least with the BLHeli ones). Would recommend that for outside flying. External buzzers can probably get louder, though, but probably unnecessary if you are flying in a familiar place that isn't too loud (cicadas can get rtf out). E: I presume the preferred curve map is done on the flight controller, so people essentially have one profile on their transmitter, and the flight controller does all the work matching the inputs to the appropriate vehicle response for how the vehicle is configured. Transmitter tweaks would likely be for adjustments in the field if you don't have a laptop or phone adapter Corky Romanovsky fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Oct 1, 2019 |
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Oct 1, 2019 02:09
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Bolange posted:Having fun crashing my trashcan but I think I want to change the control curve on my throttle. I'd like for it to be less sensitive/twitchy in the hover range but still allow full range of motor. It looks like I can configure that a few different places, either radio (Jumper T16) or in the flight controller itself (maybe that's pitch and yaw only though?). Which approach is generally considered 'correct'?
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Oct 1, 2019 09:06
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Bolange posted:Having fun crashing my trashcan but I think I want to change the control curve on my throttle. I'd like for it to be less sensitive/twitchy in the hover range but still allow full range of motor. It looks like I can configure that a few different places, either radio (Jumper T16) or in the flight controller itself (maybe that's pitch and yaw only though?). Which approach is generally considered 'correct'? In Betaflight start adjusting Super Expo to do exactly what you want. RC Rate is the total speed it'll reach overall in degrees per second, and Super Expo sort of feathers that in the center a bit. If you find it's not enough, or you have it set so high that it's snapping from smooth to twitchy as it gets over the curve then ease up on Super Expo and try the regular Expo which seems to hit RIGHT at the base of the curve which is the center of your stick. Once you play with Super Expo you can see in the GUI how it modifies the RC signal curve from the normal straight line, you should be able to see it's similar but different from the regular Expo.
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Oct 1, 2019 09:32
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Bolange posted:What other interesting things are you guys binding to these switches? -- Arm / Disarm -- Angle / Acro mode -- 3 different OSD profiles, the other two are a completely blank one and one with a lot of garbage on it for looking at values on the bench -- Turtle Mode / Beeper -- Taranis callouts ("Play value") for reading out loud timers or mAh or cell voltage or altitude or speed or whatever, but I never use it flying FPV since we've got OSD. It is really nice on flying LOS to not have to look down. Turtle Mode is a definitely requirement if you're flying anywhere there's a possibility you might crash and not be able to reach your quad and it is upside down and probably the only switch I use apart from arm and beeper. Definitely adjust your throttle in the flight controller and not the radio though, so your quad profile in the taranis is the same no matter what quad you're flying. To get more resolution around the hover area, set your "Throttle MID" on the PID settings to whatever your hover throttle is (or your throttle when moving the speed you want the most resolution) then add "Throttle expo" of like 0.2. This gives you the standard expo everyone is familiar with except it is centered around Throttle MID instead of center stick.
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Oct 1, 2019 13:04
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nailed it  e: projects thread post Normal Barbarian fucked around with this message at 11:15 on Oct 3, 2019 |
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Oct 3, 2019 11:05
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Bolange posted:What other interesting things are you guys binding to these switches? Turtle mode Callouts on the momentary (maybe with the neighbor switch set to modify what the momentary calls out).
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Oct 3, 2019 11:14
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scandoslav posted:nailed it lol, that's a good proof
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Oct 3, 2019 12:46
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scandoslav posted:nailed it
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Oct 3, 2019 18:30
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yeah i thought at first you just reskinned a QX7 but those dont have two antennas
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Oct 3, 2019 18:42
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CapnBry posted:gently caress yeah you did! Now... why are you making a new transmitter out of transmitter parts? Is it a case of nobody made what you wanted, or just because you thought you could, and you were 100% correct? bring back old gbs posted:yeah i thought at first you just reskinned a QX7 but those dont have two antennas I bought a bag of FS-i6 guts on Ebay after drunkenly purchasing a Fly Sky rx instead of an FrSky one. I figured I'd 3D print my own case, but I've been having trouble actually getting that done. Hence: cardboard. I bought FrSky hall effect gimbals because They Are Better. The tx guts were all of $30, and the open-box/return gimbals ~$20 a pop, so I get to tell myself I'm saving money! Antennae are from old routers.
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Oct 4, 2019 00:33
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that’s fuxking great. frsky have been a bunch of bootyholes lately and flysky RF performance is real nice.
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Oct 5, 2019 10:01
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Ugh... lost my Tinyhawk freestyle on top of a building this morning. Trying to shoot a nice wide gap and got blown off course into a concrete fixture. Attempts at flipping it right side up failed and another drone sheared a motor off in the process.
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Oct 5, 2019 18:05
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Oof that sucks. I thought it was bad to lose a model in a tree and have to spend 3 hours trying to rope and poke it down but it must really be frustrating to know your little guy is right up there and just needed to be flipped over. I put Betaflight 4.1RC5 on my 5" last night (spending over two hours trying to get my receiver talking to it again) and, man, so many great things in there. Bidrectional DSHOT + JESC with RPM telemetry means I have super precise dynamic RPM filtering now and I can really loosen up the other filters. That also adds dynamic idle so my motors aren't running 5% at idle, they run at 1400RPM. I had a pretty ok tune on it already but I made another profile with the new slider-based PID settings and right out of the box it flew ok, but a little worse by overshooting always and having to come back. It always locked right on after that initial bounce though. I ended up with 0.8 Master Multiplier, 0.8 PD Balance, and 1.2 PD Gain which is a lot easier to share with people than 16 PID values. It would be even better if they could get this right into the OSD Menu and Adjustments options so you could do a roll, nope not right, tap a switch mid-flight to change one of the sliders and keep going, but unfortunately the silders are configurator-only. The VTX tables is great in that now you can match your settings to what the VTX actually does, but it does have two short extra steps that I feel like they could have integrated right into the configurator in the form of built-in presets. If only the world wasn't so litigious. So much good stuff *and* my Larva X will be here this week freakin' finally so it is shaping up to be a great week to throw money into the top of a tree!
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Oct 6, 2019 18:56
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Batteries are getting so efficient these days. This one hardly weighs a thing! Unrelated, but what do you guys use to cover up your dings in the battery wire insulation that come from getting chopped by the props? I was thinking that waterproof silicone plumbing seal tape? I don't have any electrical tape so if I am going to buy something should it be that. CapnBry fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Oct 8, 2019 |
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Oct 7, 2019 15:48
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Props will cut through electrical tape! I use either RaceWire https://www.getfpv.com/whitenoisefpv-race-wire-pcb-motor-wire.html or Gorilla Tape depending on the build. That tape you've linked looks similar to Gorilla Tape so will probably be fine also.
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Oct 8, 2019 10:14
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i never let power wires get inside the prop arcs. for motor wires you can use a prop blade or run them under the arm, then tape them up.
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Oct 8, 2019 10:38
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My motor wires are fine, they're taped to the frame, it is just the XT60 that has some slices in it that happened on a few battery ejections / broken strap. Since I added a double layer of that sticky dash mat stuff (like ummagrip) I've only thrown the battery twice, with one being that one in the photo where it slid out of the shrinkwrap. I'll give that tape a try just because it seems like also a cool thing to have around to patch an squirting pipe. My Larva X came yesterday and of course our weather changed from the 30 consecutive days of no rain to raining continuously for the next 3 days. Let's just say my ceiling picked up a few propeller nicks last night, every loose piece of paper in the house is now blown away, and dust bunnies I didn't know existed have been chased across the floor.
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Oct 8, 2019 13:40
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