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You could also try cleaning out the heatsink and fan and reapplying thermal compound, but I'd think it unlikely this would help if the card won't even start up. Unless the fan has totally seized and it overheats immediately?
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Sep 27, 2019 02:25
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Flipperwaldt posted:I was looking at these, because of the passthrough at the source, so I can have one TV near the satellite receiver and the other one in the bedroom. One of the dip switches on it won't stay in the on position, but it seems like the whole signal equalisation thing isn't important at all once you've got decent electrical continuity. Edit: eh, if I set the eq to 0, sometimes the audio doesn't come through when changing channels. Works fine with te cable length appropriate medium setting. I guess I'm lucky I don't need the maximum 50m setting or I'd have to send it back for that wonky dip switch. Flipperwaldt fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Sep 27, 2019 |
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Sep 27, 2019 12:38
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I have a 750W PSU I bought back in 2011 that cost a fair bit and still works perfectly fine. Would I be ok putting it into a brand new build or have PSUs advanced in the past 8 years (better efficiency, quieter, etc) to the point where I should get a new one? I see people talking now about bronze/silver/gold ratings and I don't really know what that means.
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Sep 27, 2019 13:07
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Here's an article of what the Bronze / Gold etc. ratings mean: https://www.tomshardware.com/news/what-80-plus-levels-mean,36721.html The short version is that it guarantees a certain level of efficiency under load, which translates into less heat. A Bronze rated 300W PSU is supposed to be 82% efficient at full load, meaning if it needs to deliver the full 300W, it's going to draw [300 / 82%] or ~365.85W from the wall. A Silver rated 300W PSU is supposed to be 85% efficient at full load, meaning if it needs to deliver the full 300W, it's going to draw ~352.94W from the wall. The Silver would therefore consume less KWH on your power bill, it would also be less hot, since any wattage over and above the 300W load is dissipated into heat. ___ The rule of thumb with PSUs is that nothing older than 5 years, or your warranty, unless you're fine with losing whatever else you've got hooked up to it (which you probably will not be with a new build).
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Sep 27, 2019 13:19
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gradenko_2000 posted:PSU stuff That's great, thanks. Guess I'll be buying a new one then.
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Sep 27, 2019 13:24
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My PSU is name brand and either gold or plat rated and is still a small % of cost of the overall build even in my 2600x/gtx1060/16gb nothing special type of build Imo PSU skimping is a penny wise pound foolish venture. Too many other things can get effed up from what are effectively typical failures on the PSU. For my use all I care about is the hardware and cost of ownership since it's all consumer shenanigans I do
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Sep 28, 2019 11:04
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I'm gonna take the meat of this question to the upgrading thread when I've figured some more stuff out, but I thought I'd try to get an answer to the thing that's giving me the most anxiety. I've come to realize that I have to upgrade my CPU. I'm running with a 1070 and 16 gigs of ram, but my mobo and CPU is from 2014 (and thus, even though I've upgraded the RAM over the years, that RAM is not exactly modern). It's clear that I'm gonna have to replace a bunch of stuff, but this is what's giving me anxiety:
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Sep 28, 2019 13:09
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Motherboards all use a set standard of screw placements and sizing(ish). That specific indicator is the mATX, atx, micro ATX, itx, yadda yadda that you see. Looking up the specs for your case will largely indicate all compatibility there. The Mobo and case will both have those designations. Many cases can fit multiple types. Pcpartpicker.com has a seemingly good compatibility matrix where you plug in your current/future/potential parts and it will filter out poo poo that doesn't work As far as windows I think they moved away from motherboard serial and yes it's now linked to your Microsoft account. I'm not 💯 on that since I haven't done a fresh install in awhile, even when changing hardware. There's 2 windows / w10 threads here though that I read and I believe one of them touched on this just this week I'll swap boot drives straight up between computers these days and they'll still get to windows 
Worf fucked around with this message at 13:25 on Sep 28, 2019 |
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Sep 28, 2019 13:22
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Neat, that allays some of my fears. Thanks! Edit: oh yeah I'm gonna have to replace this motherboard posthaste Black Griffon fucked around with this message at 14:04 on Sep 28, 2019 |
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Sep 28, 2019 13:38
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You can move a drive with a windows install on it into a new computer (new motherboard == new computer) and have it just work after a couple reboots the vast majority of the time. Reformatting and installing fresh is usually a better option though, because even though windows will usually survive the transition, there is no method for garbage collection cleaning out all the old drivers and their settings that would now just be taking up space and there is a fair risk of annoying glitches or other oddball software artifacts that would take an expert hours to resolve. What you will need to do a clean install is the windows key you used originally, its the 25 digit alphanumeric code on the certificate of authenticity that comes with any windows license. It is that thing that clearly marked "Do not lose this key." that either is on a label stuck to the side of your computer, or on the box with the original windows dvd that came with the computer. To use it grab a copy of the latest windows 10 media creation tool (MCT) from microsoft, make a bootable usb thumb drive installer (or dvd if you are really old fashioned), start installing with that once the new computer is assembled and the drive is wiped, and when it asks for a key during the install process give it the one you were using. It doesn't matter if it is a windows 7, or 8, or 8.1 key, they all work fine in the windows 10 installer, it will accept any valid windows product key from 7 or newer (vista and older won't work). Some people say you should skip the key during the install process and enter it in later when it is up and running and goes to activate, but doing so really only introduces additional complications. If during the install process you selected windows 10 pro and your key is for the home edition, it could gently caress things up and force you to start over where as if you just give the key to it the installer automatically selects the correct edition (pro/home/educational/enterprise/etc) based off that.
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Sep 28, 2019 14:13
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Right, time to figure out where the gently caress that key is. I certainly haven't lost it, but it's somewhere in the deep, forgotten mess of manuals in some box somewhere.
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Sep 28, 2019 14:17
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Black Griffon posted:Right, time to figure out where the gently caress that key is. I certainly haven't lost it, but it's somewhere in the deep, forgotten mess of manuals in some box somewhere. You can find it through windows , Google it and you'll see a step by step
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Sep 28, 2019 14:28
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Thank loving God
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Sep 28, 2019 14:56
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Magical jellybean keyfinder.
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Sep 28, 2019 20:49
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Depending on how you activated your Windows installation, a key finder will not actually be able to pull out an actual Windows key. With digital entitlements, you'll only be able to get a generic key that won't work. If you want to be sure you'll be able to reactivate, go to Settings -> Update & security -> Activation and link your Microsoft account. Indiana_Krom posted:Some people say you should skip the key during the install process and enter it in later when it is up and running and goes to activate, but doing so really only introduces additional complications. If during the install process you selected windows 10 pro and your key is for the home edition, it could gently caress things up and force you to start over where as if you just give the key to it the installer automatically selects the correct edition (pro/home/educational/enterprise/etc) based off that. It does not introduce additional complications if you've already activated Windows on that same system and select the correct version. Lambert fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Sep 28, 2019 |
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Sep 28, 2019 23:11
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Hipster_Doofus posted:Magical jellybean keyfinder. This one had malware in the installer at some point. Have not had problems with Belarc Adviser. I'd just recommend Nirsoft Produkey, but Microsoft has decided it's a "hacking tool" and needs to be blocked.
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Sep 28, 2019 23:56
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What are the chances the next gen Intel desktop chips will have meaningful IPC/max-clock-speed increases?
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Sep 29, 2019 03:00
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Flipperwaldt posted:This one had malware in the installer at some point. Have not had problems with Belarc Adviser. Well fuckin hell, that's rather alarming. Nirsoft's stuff is amazing though. Can the block be overridden?
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Sep 29, 2019 03:30
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Well uh, I already installed and used the jelly bean, so come what may. I think I got a key out of it? I'm good at censoring stuff yeah
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Sep 29, 2019 05:09
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Black Griffon posted:Well uh, I already installed and used the jelly bean, so come what may. I think I got a key out of it? Try it, if it doesn't work you can skip activation and either use the phone activation thing later or just buy a cheap key on ebay or sa-mart.
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Sep 29, 2019 05:15
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Right oh, will do. Related to reformatting: I've got my document/pictures/video/etc. folders on my other, non-boot drive. What happens to those when I reformat my boot drive? Are they locked behind my previous user? Loose folders? Something else?
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Sep 29, 2019 07:34
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Black Griffon posted:Well uh, I already installed and used the jelly bean, so come what may. I think I got a key out of it? That doesn't look like one of the generic keys, so you should be good. But there's no harm in linking your key to a MS account for safety.
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Sep 29, 2019 07:42
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If I'm already logged in with a Microsoft account and my computer is tied to the account on microsoft.com, I assume it's linked already?
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Sep 29, 2019 07:46
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Black Griffon posted:Right oh, will do. Windows likes to put boot partitions on the wrong drive so make sure you UNPLUG the drive you're not installing windows on. After it's installed, shut down and plug the data drive back in. You'll be able to see the drive in windows and take ownership of all the files and folders after that.
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Sep 29, 2019 07:56
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Black Griffon posted:If I'm already logged in with a Microsoft account and my computer is tied to the account on microsoft.com, I assume it's linked already? Yep, should be good. You can check in Update & security, Activation.
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Sep 29, 2019 08:25
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I have a laptop and a PC, the audio of which I want to output via my amplifier and speakers. I've always done this using a Behringer 1202 mixer, however this is something I got second hand about 10 years ago when I had more audio sources and it appears to have developed some problems (through troubleshooting and narrowing it down, it seems as though it's introducing noise). Rather than replace it like for like with something which is probably overkill for my application (just 2 inputs into 1), is there a simpler, perhaps cheaper device I can do this with? I have looked at mixers on Amazon but they either seem to be more expensive than what I had, or mono. I know I could just plug both sources into the amplifier but that would mean switching between them, when I want it combined.
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Sep 29, 2019 12:48
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Hipster_Doofus posted:Well fuckin hell, that's rather alarming. Nirsoft's stuff is amazing though. Can the block be overridden? Magical jellybean keyfinder being compromised is years ago, when it was all the rage to suddenly pack installers of free programs with browser toolbars and poo poo, which turned malicious really fast in general and inspired the creation of Ninite iirc to check and uncheck the right checkboxes on install. That doesn't seem as prevalent these days. I've honestly not checked up on it since.
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Sep 29, 2019 13:53
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Anjow posted:I have a laptop and a PC, the audio of which I want to output via my amplifier and speakers. I've always done this using a Behringer 1202 mixer, however this is something I got second hand about 10 years ago when I had more audio sources and it appears to have developed some problems (through troubleshooting and narrowing it down, it seems as though it's introducing noise). Rather than replace it like for like with something which is probably overkill for my application (just 2 inputs into 1), is there a simpler, perhaps cheaper device I can do this with? I have looked at mixers on Amazon but they either seem to be more expensive than what I had, or mono. Your going to want a device that separates inputs. While it's true you can use a y-splitter to use for example two sets of headphones off one output, you can't really do two inputs into one output. (you can but it will impact the sound and possible damage the output device.)
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Sep 30, 2019 02:08
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I had 2 of my external hard drives crap out at around the same time and lost 7-8+ tb of various files. I was googling about hard drive failure and found sites that you can send your hdd to and they say they'll try and fix or copy over your files to a new hard drive (if possible.) Does anyone have any experience with this or (more importantly) any company that seems trustworthy? Are any of these places reputable or should I just give up trying to recover these hdd's? Edit: I have looked for local places, but there aren't any I can find nearby.
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Sep 30, 2019 16:13
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Drive Savers is the big one and they are very reputable. They’ve done drive recovery for major companies and governments. They have their own clean room with various parts and can basically rebuild a drive from scratch. Depending on how hosed the drive is it can get very expensive. I’ve sent some clients there and they’ve gotten all their data back but it cost them multiple thousands of dollars. Your case may not be that bad, especially if it just a drive enclose failure but expect it be at least a couple hundred bucks.
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Oct 1, 2019 01:26
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all_purpose_cat_boy posted:Hi Hi I turned off xmp in bios and it has worked fine since, although the ram is obviously working at lower speeds. Any suggestions or a guide as to how to get it to as close as possible to max? I don’t really understand all the bios ram settings. Thanks!
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Oct 1, 2019 17:28
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all_purpose_cat_boy posted:Hi Gray Matter fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Oct 2, 2019 |
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Oct 2, 2019 01:43
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I have a B450m mortar with a 3200mhz G.Skill 16 gig (cas16) and its been steady at xmp 3733mhz. Haven't messed with ram calc settings. Anecdotal, but some do work!
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Oct 2, 2019 04:07
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I bought a Razer Deathadder Elite to replace my old one, about 3 months ago. The scroll wheel stopped working today, and no amount of reinstalling drivers, messing with settings, and restarts can get it to register. It still registers the scroll wheel button, just not scrolilng up or down. How probable is it that it's the hardware itself and not some weird conflict/bug? Should I give up Razer seeing that the reason I bought this was to replace another DeathAdder whose scroll wheel stopped working after a year or so? I mean, I guess I know the answer. Which new gamer mouse should I buy, goons?
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Oct 2, 2019 06:29
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Quad posted:I bought a Razer Deathadder Elite to replace my old one, about 3 months ago. The scroll wheel stopped working today, and no amount of reinstalling drivers, messing with settings, and restarts can get it to register. It still registers the scroll wheel button, just not scrolilng up or down. There's a mouse thread. Should I buy a $100 mouse?
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Oct 2, 2019 06:42
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Gray Matter posted:What BIOS are you using? MSI B450 boards are notoriously poo poo at playing well with Ryzen 3000 series (source: have Tomahawk and 3600). They are slowly trickling out BIOS updates which seem to be incrementally fixing some of the issues and in some cases creating new ones. A browse through Reddit.com/r/msi_gaming may yield more specific answers I updated bios a few weeks ago, so I think there’s one newer version. Maybe I just need to wait it out until they stop releasing new ones and then try the latest. It’s not causing any problems at the minute, but I guess it will cause a bottleneck eventually.
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Oct 2, 2019 08:29
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Quad posted:I bought a Razer Deathadder Elite to replace my old one, about 3 months ago. The scroll wheel stopped working today, and no amount of reinstalling drivers, messing with settings, and restarts can get it to register. It still registers the scroll wheel button, just not scrolilng up or down. 100% Logitech makes decent mice.
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Oct 2, 2019 18:37
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Quad posted:I bought a Razer Deathadder Elite to replace my old one, about 3 months ago. The scroll wheel stopped working today, and no amount of reinstalling drivers, messing with settings, and restarts can get it to register. It still registers the scroll wheel button, just not scrolilng up or down. you're probably in the mouse thread by now, but I replaced my deathadder with a Logitech G502 a while ago and I couldn't be happier. Solid, dependable mouse with tunable weight to find your comfort zone.
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Oct 2, 2019 19:38
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What's a good trackpad for a desktop lol Wireless if possible. I see some for like $70-110, is that p much what they go for?
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Oct 2, 2019 21:24
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Trackpads are haram. Also, I like my Razer Basilisk: Finally a mouse where I can reach the third thumb/"sniper" button easily.
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Oct 2, 2019 22:16
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