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Fedule
Mar 27, 2010


No one left uncured.
I got you.
Okay I've found somewhere I can park the OneConnect box while the receiver and everything else is all set up in place. I guess this whole thing is a factor of signals, and there's an enormous amount of interacting complicating poo poo in 3D space, and I'm having to do the equivalent of the Bass Crawl to find the one spot where the signals all work out and I can actually get signal on certain channels.

Apparently this is all happening with these specific channels because when they did the last digital switchover they switched everything over to a lower power transmitter which makes the signals more vulnerable to stupid poo poo like whatever the hell is going on on my TV stand. Maybe tomorrow something will be microscopically different and it will all break again. gently caress.

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Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

Taima posted:

Seattle???

I'm staying on Whidbey island in a couple of weeks but I don't know how I would fit a sound bar. It could maybe happen though.

e: what about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Soundba...tronics&sr=1-28

There's a used, like version listed that has everything but the remote, and you could get a cheap universal remote I assume. Not bad for $100.
I would go for it if it weren't for the subwoofer; I want a non-subwoofer system. Whidbey island is hella nice; it'll probably be raining, though.


Butterfly Valley posted:

See if you can find the Samsung HW MS650. It's a couple of years old but still the best soundbar for that kind of money; better than the newer models they released to replace it even. I got mine at the end of last year and have been delighted with it.

Amazon has it for $400 new, but only $220 for a "Certified Refurb." Soundbar seems like something it might be okay to get as a refurb; should that be okay, or should I be looking at new stuff only?

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Thanatosian posted:

I would go for it if it weren't for the subwoofer; I want a non-subwoofer system. Whidbey island is hella nice; it'll probably be raining, though.


Amazon has it for $400 new, but only $220 for a "Certified Refurb." Soundbar seems like something it might be okay to get as a refurb; should that be okay, or should I be looking at new stuff only?

Both of my last two soundbars have been refurb Vizios and totally fine.

edit: Also Amazon will release their FireTV 4K integrated Anker soundbar in November if you need the duality.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RT516D...YAJGJ646AC04796

Taima
Dec 31, 2006

tfw you're peeing next to someone in the lineup and they don't know

WattsvilleBlues posted:

Hmm, 39.3ms input lag at best. I think I'm just gonna risk it and go for the LG C9 and pray I'm being a sperg about burn-in.

You're probably fine, just be careful about playing a lot of the same game with a consistent HUD, though there is a setting on the C9 that automatically turns down the brightness on static elements. You should probably turn that to High if you do partake in that kind of gaming.

The other super important thing is to keep the TV plugged in at all times- it does corrective maintenance (blanking on what it's called; compensation cycles maybe?) that helps combat burn-in. In any case, it's literally the only TV that matches your requirements (HDMI 2.1, Variable Refresh Rate, etc).

Honestly you're going to be fuckin' amazed at how good gaming looks on the panel. It's just nuts. I've been playing through Gears 5 with max settings at 4K and HDR on, and the colors/graphics basically pop out of the screen because the blacks are actually true black. Once it gets HDMI 2.1 GSync certification, hopefully soon, there's no stopping it.


Thanatosian posted:

Whidbey island is hella nice; it'll probably be raining, though.

Oooh for sure. We're ok with that, we know the score heading up there in October. Looking forward to kicking it for a few days to decompress, been a wild couple of months for us.

WattsvilleBlues
Jan 25, 2005

Every demon wants his pound of flesh

Rastor posted:

Just don't keep playing the same game for hours every day, day after day, forever... and there shouldn't be issues. The people really suffering from burn-in are the CNN from dawn to dusk people

My riskiest use is Call of Duty for a year for maybe 20 hours per week, before moving to the next CoD. Should I be concerned? I vary games and content as well but it's not something I consciously do.

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


OLED is all cumulative, so it's just about total hours.

300 hours straight is exactly the same as 1 hour a day for 300 days.

GreenNight
Feb 19, 2006
Turning the light on the darkest places, you and I know we got to face this now. We got to face this now.

I've played multiple 100+ JRPGs with the GUI on the screen the entire time with no issues on my 2 year old OLED.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

WattsvilleBlues posted:

My riskiest use is Call of Duty for a year for maybe 20 hours per week, before moving to the next CoD. Should I be concerned? I vary games and content as well but it's not something I consciously do.

Stick one dollar in a jar every day, and in four years when you notice the slightest problem revel in what ridiculousness $1460 will buy you by then.

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

Thanatosian posted:

I would go for it if it weren't for the subwoofer; I want a non-subwoofer system. Whidbey island is hella nice; it'll probably be raining, though.


Amazon has it for $400 new, but only $220 for a "Certified Refurb." Soundbar seems like something it might be okay to get as a refurb; should that be okay, or should I be looking at new stuff only?

Yeah I'm not an audiophile by any means but I don't think speakers have a short shelf life. One of my main criteria was, like you, not wanting a separate sub, and again this soundbar performs fantastically well without one.

Taima
Dec 31, 2006

tfw you're peeing next to someone in the lineup and they don't know
55 inch C9 for $1149 from an authorized dealer, insanely good deal:

https://slickdeals.net/f/13395448-lg-4k-uhd-hdr-ai-smart-oled-hdtvs-65-oled65e9pua-1999-55-oled55c9pua-1149-free-shipping?src=frontpage

Shibawanko
Feb 13, 2013

Preamble: I know next to nothing about TV's or even monitors, I only have a laptop for myself. The last time I bought a separate screen of any kind was like 15 years ago so I'm completely out of the loop about any of the current technologies.

My mother has asked me to buy a new TV for her. She wants something around 40 inch, the old TV is 32 inch but it's in a big room so something slightly larger would be better. She doesn't want any kind of giant television.

She doesn't ever watch blurays or anything like that, probably doesn't give a poo poo about movies but will watch the occasional drama series or tv movie if it happens to be on.

She's considering these three:
https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1338382/samsung-qled-43q60r-zwart/specificaties/
https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1329700/samsung-43ru7170-zwart/specificaties/
https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/1387468/lg-43um7100plb-zwart.html

These are basically the same TV except one is QLED and the other two are not, the QLED one is almost double the price. I dunno what QLED is really except some kind of technology that makes the colors look deeper, I've never seen it in person. My mother is strongly edging towards the QLED but I dunno if I should talk her out of it (I already talked her out of OLED because those loving things are over 1000 euros which seems ridiculous to me), it seems like she wouldn't really benefit from it. Is this technology worth the extra price and would a regular person notice the difference? If we don't get QLED, should I go for LG or Samsung? The Samsung has a single mediocre review on that website while the LG has none.

The Big Bad Worf
Jan 26, 2004
Quad-greatness

WattsvilleBlues posted:

My riskiest use is Call of Duty for a year for maybe 20 hours per week, before moving to the next CoD. Should I be concerned? I vary games and content as well but it's not something I consciously do.

I've got you covered fam

https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/real-life-oled-burn-in-test

tl;dr, in RTings real life burn-in test, they specifically tested a call of duty game under extreme use conditions. even after 72 weeks of 20 hours per day(!), it doesn't have a single burnt in pixel. These tests were done on a C6, and there's been sub-pixel level changes to the panel since then that further mitigate the odds of seeing burn-in during the useful life of the set. As for my own anecdote, I think I have about 650~ hours on my c9 OLED set and have not seen any evidence of image retention or burn-in yet. 350 of those hours were probably spent playing a rhythm game with fixed UI elements.

Some precautionary steps you can take would be; set the OLED Light to the lowest setting you can tolerate for your room and content. Make sure you don't stay in the retail display mode (aka torch mode) as that is too bright for any room and applies a wide color gamut filter to the image that looks bad and will also accelerate burn-in. In my modestly lit room with curtains drawn (non-blackout), 40-45 is good enough for me, even during the day. I have generally avoided HDR games since they are not done particularly well and developers still do silly things like set UI elements to 1000 nits. HDR films and streaming content is fine. Make sure you actually leave the TV plugged in and use the remote to turn it off, don't unplug the set or turn it off at the wall, ever. every 4 hours you accumulate on the set, the next time it's in standby it does some panel maintenance to wipe image retention and reduce risk of burn-in in the future.

Taking these steps, and with pretty average home use, you could probably expect the TV to last some number of years before burn-in becomes a problem. Everyone's use cases are different, but when I took inventory of the kinds of things I do, how often I use my TV, and how often I end up replacing them, I expect to get 4-6 years out of it before I see even the slightest hint of some burn-in, and I will probably be ready to replace it by then. The more static your content and the more saturated / bright that content is, the faster it will burn. If you don't want to pay the C9 price every 4-6 years, consider getting a C8 or other 8 series OLED instead - it's going to use a similar, if not the same panel, and on a firmware level, it's a near full match - most of the improvements in the C9 are strictly targeted at gamers (slightly lower input lag, HDMI 2.1 ports theoretically will allow for 4k120hz with a future firmware update, VRR support for the Xbox one, Gsync-compatible support is coming for PC and users with certain Nvidia graphics cards, etc.)

The Big Bad Worf fucked around with this message at 09:09 on Sep 28, 2019

DoLittle
Jul 26, 2006
Cheap 43” TVs should be less than 400€. Any of the more expensive ones tend to be poor value for the money, low-volume products.

You get better value in 55”, which is the mass market size these days. Basic 55” 4k LED TVs should be 500-700€ and the step up to an 55” OLED 1000-1400€.

Butterfly Valley
Apr 19, 2007

I am a spectacularly bad poster and everyone in the Schadenfreude thread hates my guts.

Non OLED LG screens are poo poo so that one's out. At that size and for your mum I'd say the QLED (Samsung marketing term for their higher end models) is a total waste of money. It will have better HDR but that's irrelevant if she's not even watching HDR content. So the other Samsung is absolutely fine for her.

Edit: as the other poster says you shouldn't be spending any more than €400 on one at that size. A larger screen would be something she'd actually appreciate (even if she doesn't like the idea now) and you get better value for money in that size.

Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 10:11 on Sep 28, 2019

abelwingnut
Dec 23, 2002


can anyone recommend an arm that allows for vertical mobility as well as swivel and retraction? doesn't need to allow for much vertical mobility, just a few inches.

e: to give an idea of what i'm trying to do:



in an ideal world, i would have a mount placed on the wall between the door and the corner. the tv would be able to be retracted flat against that wall, and also be able to be extended out, swiveled, and dropped a bit so that the bottom edge of the tv is lower than the top of the radiator.

abelwingnut fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Sep 28, 2019

morestuff
Aug 2, 2008

You can't stop what's coming
Was going to buy a 75” TCL 6 series, but it looks like that’s the only size where the 2019 model isn’t available yet. The new Quantum dot tech worth waiting for, or waiting to see if the 2018 edition gets major price cuts? Any chance they just don’t do a 75-incher in the line any more?

BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.

morestuff posted:

Was going to buy a 75” TCL 6 series, but it looks like that’s the only size where the 2019 model isn’t available yet. The new Quantum dot tech worth waiting for, or waiting to see if the 2018 edition gets major price cuts? Any chance they just don’t do a 75-incher in the line any more?

I'd be very shocked if they didn't do a 75". The trend is moving larger. That said, the current 75" want released until spring 2019 if memory serves so we may not see a new version for another 6 months or more.

I haven't seen any reviews of the quantum versions yet to give any indication as to whether the upgrade is worth it.

Edit: Probably worth mentioning that the next 75" will probably sell around MSRP for the first few months. The current version had dropped below $1200 a few times. I'd probably just pull the trigger on the current 75" at that price.

BeastOfExmoor fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Sep 29, 2019

morestuff
Aug 2, 2008

You can't stop what's coming

BeastOfExmoor posted:

I'd be very shocked if they didn't do a 75". The trend is moving larger. That said, the current 75" want released until spring 2019 if memory serves so we may not see a new version for another 6 months or more.

I haven't seen any reviews of the quantum versions yet to give any indication as to whether the upgrade is worth it.

Oof. I might just settle for the 65" then, I'm a little worried about the larger model dominating the living room anyway.

Any idea when the new model will start hitting big box stores? It apparently started shipping on the 20th. Amazon has a listing but it's $50 over MSRP and sold through Beach Camera.

Nairbo
Jan 2, 2005
Is there any reason to use my Shield TV for Plex over the internal Web OS app on my C8? I'm assuming the TV app upscales and I know the Shield doesn't support Dolby Vision.

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




TCL 55S425 $270 shipped with code

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

I was just at Dollarama and there were Monster HDMI cables on the rack by the checkout. Shouldn't they be like insanely inflated?

The Ferret King
Nov 23, 2003

cluck cluck
Just moved into a new place and I don't have a TV.

Looking at an LG C9 65” for $2050 delivered. Good enough of a deal?

OR

A TCL 6 Series for like $800 (65") / $1300 (75") bux because I'm a moron for considering dropping 2 grand on a loving television what the gently caress is wrong with me.

Thoughts?

Rhyno
Mar 22, 2003
Probation
Can't post for 10 years!
Get the TCL. My 55" is the best TV I've owned to date.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Evergreen rule of thumb:

If you can afford the OLED, get the OLED.

KodiakRS
Jul 11, 2012

:stonk:
What's the best way to sell a used TV these days? I'm getting ready to move across the country and my vizio p65 won't fit into the space I have available to move. I've tried craigslist but after two no shows and an obvious scam I'm losing hope in that method. Worst case scenario I can drop it off at a goodwill donation center and use it as a tax write off but I was hoping to get at least a little actusl cash for it.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

KodiakRS posted:

What's the best way to sell a used TV these days? I'm getting ready to move across the country and my vizio p65 won't fit into the space I have available to move. I've tried craigslist but after two no shows and an obvious scam I'm losing hope in that method. Worst case scenario I can drop it off at a goodwill donation center and use it as a tax write off but I was hoping to get at least a little actusl cash for it.

Nextdoor and Facebook Marketplace. Also try Facebook "Yardsale" pages for your area.

There's several "Let Go" style apps but I can't vouch for any of those.

EL BROMANCE
Jun 10, 2006

COWABUNGA DUDES!
🥷🐢😬



codo27 posted:

I was just at Dollarama and there were Monster HDMI cables on the rack by the checkout. Shouldn't they be like insanely inflated?

If they're genuine Monster cables and they're super cheap, definitely pick them up. Their bad reputation only stems from the absurd pricing, the cables themselves should be good. Obviously make sure the reason they're there isn't because they're old spec HDMI 1.4 if you plan on transporting 4K/HDR etc.

American McGay
Feb 28, 2010

by sebmojo

codo27 posted:

I was just at Dollarama and there were Monster HDMI cables on the rack by the checkout. Shouldn't they be like insanely inflated?

abelwingnut
Dec 23, 2002


i've seen some high-end audiophile nonsense but...what on earth?

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

abelwingnut posted:

i've seen some high-end audiophile nonsense but...what on earth?

Digital broke the industry's brain. It's especially hilarious with HDMI and USB since nobody actually makes their own cables in house, they just pay the same factory making the $3 monoprice ones to use a fancy looking wrap and colored connectors.

Veni Vidi Ameche!
Nov 2, 2017

by Fluffdaddy
I just bought a 65" Samsung Q60 (65?) 4K QLED television, and I'm wondering if this is a normal amount of light bleed.





That happens to be a blank terminal on my Raspberry Pi, but the white is visible anytime there's a lot of black on screen.

abelwingnut
Dec 23, 2002


to a larger point, are there any cables--audio, video, data, whatever--that are actually worth spending more on? thicker speaker wire over thinner speaker wire, i get. and that's also like a negligible price difference. but this other stuff? i don't understand.

qirex
Feb 15, 2001

abelwingnut posted:

to a larger point, are there any cables--audio, video, data, whatever--that are actually worth spending more on? thicker speaker wire over thinner speaker wire, i get. and that's also like a negligible price difference. but this other stuff? i don't understand.

As performance goes that's a big fat nope. I could see myself paying a little extra if I liked the way one cable looked over another but no expectations about it making any other difference.

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

Veni Vidi Ameche! posted:

I just bought a 65" Samsung Q60 (65?) 4K QLED television, and I'm wondering if this is a normal amount of light bleed.





That happens to be a blank terminal on my Raspberry Pi, but the white is visible anytime there's a lot of black on screen.

The question is why did you buy Samsung?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

abelwingnut posted:

to a larger point, are there any cables--audio, video, data, whatever--that are actually worth spending more on? thicker speaker wire over thinner speaker wire, i get. and that's also like a negligible price difference. but this other stuff? i don't understand.

HDMI does have specifications you need to meet in order to have it function, and they recently took a step back 20 years and added directional connections to the spec, but otherwise no. You might want higher awg wire in longer runs but that's it.

BeastOfExmoor
Aug 19, 2003

I will be gone, but not forever.

The Ferret King posted:

Just moved into a new place and I don't have a TV.

Looking at an LG C9 65” for $2050 delivered. Good enough of a deal?

OR

A TCL 6 Series for like $800 (65") / $1300 (75") bux because I'm a moron for considering dropping 2 grand on a loving television what the gently caress is wrong with me.

Thoughts?

OLED is great, but $2050 for a 65" OLED isn't that great of deal. The C9's have been $1800 within the last few days. If you don't need the HDMI 2.1 variable rate refresh then I think it might be worth looking for last year's models which are around $1500 when they go on sale.

The Ferret King
Nov 23, 2003

cluck cluck

BeastOfExmoor posted:

OLED is great, but $2050 for a 65" OLED isn't that great of deal. The C9's have been $1800 within the last few days. If you don't need the HDMI 2.1 variable rate refresh then I think it might be worth looking for last year's models which are around $1500 when they go on sale.

I googled around a bit and I just see scam site prices for less than $2k on the C9. I didn't see any C8s in stock but I'll keep looking. I don't feel terribly worried about HDMI 2.1. Thanks!

KS
Jun 10, 2003
Outrageous Lumpwad
Watch Slickdeals or this thread:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/322-oled-technology-great-found-deals/3056712-2019-oled-deals-b-c-e-w-z-all-sizes-15.html

Beach Camera hit $1699 the other day.

Zogo
Jul 29, 2003

abelwingnut posted:

to a larger point, are there any cables--audio, video, data, whatever--that are actually worth spending more on? thicker speaker wire over thinner speaker wire, i get. and that's also like a negligible price difference. but this other stuff? i don't understand.

You can buy thicker/higher quality cat5e, cat6, cat6a cables that are rated to work in extremely cold/hot environments and in noisy electronic areas.

But that stuff is not necessary for the vast majority obviously.

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Veni Vidi Ameche!
Nov 2, 2017

by Fluffdaddy

codo27 posted:

The question is why did you buy Samsung?

I didn't know any better, and it looked really good in the store. So, is that too much leakage, or is that normal?

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