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Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Ubiquitus posted:

Anyone here use kettlebells as a supplement? Could anyone post a climbing specific kettlebell sequence, w/ sets and reps?

My gym offers a KB class twice a week. The instructor spends about 6 weeks focusing on a new movement, upping weight and reps as the class gets used to it. Currently we are working on Turkish Get Ups the rest of the class is a mix of other movements like squats and dead lifts. The instructor's Instagram is empowered_movement she posts some of the workouts and movements to it.

I wouldn't say any of it is climbing focused but my overall fitness has improved because of the class so that has helped me on the wall.

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rest his guts
Mar 3, 2013

...pls father forgive me
for my terrible post history...
I’d say that Turkish get-ups and heavy hip hinges have a lot of utility for climbing, however. Deadlifting with a kB - not so much.

If I were to add in those movements to my training, I’d prioritize form above all, naturally, and shoot for 3-5 singles of Turks and 3x5 on the heavy hinges.

I’m about to begin my KB cert. so I’ll get back to you in a couple months!

Anachronist
Feb 13, 2009


I went climbing outside with my friend the other weekend and wanted to share some photos. We paddled across a lake to the wall and climbed two five pitch sport routes on it. Here's the view from the boat:



I got lucky and got all the comfy belay ledges:



Here's the view from the top:



Overall a great day of climbing. This was at Banks Lake, WA on the orange wall. We saw zero other climbers, just some fishing boats on the lake.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America
That is awesome. I was doing some deep water soloing at Banks Lake back in July. It was a ton of fun.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

rest his guts posted:

I’d say that Turkish get-ups and heavy hip hinges have a lot of utility for climbing, however. Deadlifting with a kB - not so much.

If I were to add in those movements to my training, I’d prioritize form above all, naturally, and shoot for 3-5 singles of Turks and 3x5 on the heavy hinges.

I’m about to begin my KB cert. so I’ll get back to you in a couple months!

Cool, I'll try starting out with those. Good luck!

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Awesome looking trip man.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Ubiquitus posted:

Anyone here use kettlebells as a supplement? Could anyone post a climbing specific kettlebell sequence, w/ sets and reps?

Last night's class was:
Warm Up-
5 Inch worm push ups
10 toe touches each side
10 plank reaches
10 bridge ups
30 sec high kicks
30 secs butt kicks

3 X 1 TGU

5 X 3 Single arm squat thrusters (each side)
Rest 1 minute

4 rounds of
6 suitcase dead lifts
6 single arm dead lifts (one side per round)
30 sec farmers carry (each side)
(maybe one more movement??)
Rest 1 minute after rounds

5 minutes of 12 KB swings every minute

Cool down/Stretch.

Anachronist
Feb 13, 2009


spwrozek posted:

Awesome looking trip man.

Yeah, it was pretty great. I’m hoping I can get 1 or 2 more days like that in this year. Might be hard with the weather. If not, I’m having plenty of fun in the gym too.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

I'm just a total piece of shit and I'm not sure why I keep posting on this site. Christ, I have spent years with idiots giving me bad advice about online dating and haven't noticed that the thread I'm in selects for people that can't talk to people worth a damn.
had a shuddering feeling go through my middle and ring finger, through the tendon all the way down past the wrist just doing some lameass sloper problem and now they hurt in the most specific, annoying way: whenever i grab something with a fully open hand (like a pile of clothing or anything that needs a wide grip) i get a pain that shoots down my hand for like a half second. nothing else hurts it at all, even 100% effort climbing on those fingers. trying to decide if i should chop them off or not

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

I have a regular old doorway-mounted pull up bar. Would it be a bad idea to use it like a hang board? Just wrap as little of my hand/fingers around it as I can and do pull ups that way, rather than fully wrapping my hand around it?

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED
Unless you can do 30+ pull-ups, you'll fatigue your back way faster than your fingers. Use it for dead-hangs, use it for pull-ups, don't use it for dead-hang pull-ups.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Hang boards are designed specifically with a smaller depth for each hold position.

You'll gain more specific tendon strength using those depths; fingers gain strength when stressed at particular angles only for that angle.

So: full crimping, half crimping, slopers, all have to be trained separately. I seriously doubt you'd be able to use a pull up bar for training finger strength very effectively

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED

Ubiquitus posted:

Hang boards are designed specifically with a smaller depth for each hold position.

You'll gain more specific tendon strength using those depths; fingers gain strength when stressed at particular angles only for that angle.

So: full crimping, half crimping, slopers, all have to be trained separately. I seriously doubt you'd be able to use a pull up bar for training finger strength very effectively

He's a beginner. He has a pull-up bar, not a hangboard. There almost certainly are tendon-specific benefits to training open grip, especially as a beginner. There 100% certainly are muscle-specific benefits to training dead-hangs, especially as a beginner.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Kasumeat posted:

He's a beginner. He has a pull-up bar, not a hangboard. There almost certainly are tendon-specific benefits to training open grip, especially as a beginner. There 100% certainly are muscle-specific benefits to training dead-hangs, especially as a beginner.

He has access to a gym. There's no point to attempting to train pulleys on a pull up bar, when he can just remove weight on a regular hang board at the gym.

If he doesn't have time to spend at the gym, that's a separate issue.

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED

Ubiquitus posted:

He has access to a gym. There's no point to attempting to train pulleys on a pull up bar, when he can just remove weight on a regular hang board at the gym.

If he doesn't have time to spend at the gym, that's a separate issue.

The guy asking for advice on how to use a door-mounted pull-up bar is probably not looking for advice on what to do at the gym.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

If I'm at the gym I'd rather just climb :shrug: Was just looking for what I can do at home on the other days

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Kasumeat posted:

The guy asking for advice on how to use a door-mounted pull-up bar is probably not looking for advice on what to do at the gym.

He was asking if he should use it for finger training, not how to use one in general. . .

remote control carnivore
May 7, 2009
Go outside you nerds

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

remote control carnivore posted:

Go outside you nerds

I both don't know anyone who climbs and have a bit of social anxiety so, although I would love to eventually get into outdoor sport, I don't see myself doing so any time soon.

Slimy Hog fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Oct 8, 2019

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

I'm just a total piece of shit and I'm not sure why I keep posting on this site. Christ, I have spent years with idiots giving me bad advice about online dating and haven't noticed that the thread I'm in selects for people that can't talk to people worth a damn.
i went outside to squamish (which is apparently a great place for bouldering) and i just didn't like it. felt like a long way to do stuff that's less fun just because its outdoors

i've always preferred being in a gym to running/whatever outside so this is a completely unsurprising extension of that

Jester Mcgee
Mar 28, 2010

A lot of things have happened to me over my life.

I can maybe understand preferring to climb indoors, but preferring the treadmill to running outside is killing me.

Mons Hubris
Aug 29, 2004

fanci flup :)


I hate running on a treadmill but I do like running on an indoor track because it's climate controlled and generally like 1/8 of a mile or less and counting up the number of laps is a good mental motivator

ShaneB
Oct 22, 2002


Climbing indoors is fun because colors

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

I'm just a total piece of shit and I'm not sure why I keep posting on this site. Christ, I have spent years with idiots giving me bad advice about online dating and haven't noticed that the thread I'm in selects for people that can't talk to people worth a damn.

Jester Mcgee posted:

I can maybe understand preferring to climb indoors, but preferring the treadmill to running outside is killing me.

its easier on your joints, for one

Tippecanoe
Jan 26, 2011

I like bouldering indoors because, while I enjoy the physical and mental challenge of climbing, I am also risk averse and terrified of heights, plus there's an indoor gym about a 12 minute walk away from me. I do enjoy cycling outdoors, though I'm thinking of getting a bike trainer so I can do that indoors this winter.

Roil
May 4, 2010
Any goons in North Dallas area? I usually climb a few times a week with people from work and always looking for others.

interrodactyl
Nov 8, 2011

you have no dignity

Slimy Hog posted:

I both don't know anyone who climbs and have a bit of social anxiety so, although I would love to eventually get into outdoor sport, I don't see myself doing so any time soon.

Sport climbing is for suckers like Adam Ondra. Go bouldering instead.

Jester Mcgee
Mar 28, 2010

A lot of things have happened to me over my life.

I mostly sport climb because it’s easier on my fingers and I can be climbing at the red river gorge by 8am.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Roil posted:

Any goons in North Dallas area? I usually climb a few times a week with people from work and always looking for others.

I climb at Summit Dallas on Tuesday and Plano on Sunday, I take my daughter to Plano on Saturdays but I wouldn't say I get any climbing in.

Kind of a long shot, but does anyone in Dallas know what's up with climb Oso? Rumor has it it's vaguely open and I'd love to go since it's right by where I work.

Slimy Hog
Apr 22, 2008

interrodactyl posted:

Sport climbing is for suckers like Adam Ondra. Go bouldering instead.

I do boulder! Mostly because I don't climb with anyone and the closest gym to me is bouldering only.

Hauki
May 11, 2010


Slimy Hog posted:

I both don't know anyone who climbs and have a bit of social anxiety so, although I would love to eventually get into outdoor sport, I don't see myself doing so any time soon.

don't you live here

i mean there's a million climbers around so i'm shocked that you don't know anyone else who climbs, but you're welcome to come out with us the next time we do, we're pretty much guaranteed to keep it lowkey

Hot Diggity!
Apr 3, 2010

SKELITON_BRINGING_U_ON.GIF
I like bouldering more because it's way less standing around

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Hot Diggity! posted:

I like bouldering more because it's way less standing around

Inflatable crazy creek solves the standing issue.

ploots
Mar 19, 2010
yeah it's great you get to sit on the extra pads

Roil
May 4, 2010

M. Night Skymall posted:

I climb at Summit Dallas on Tuesday and Plano on Sunday, I take my daughter to Plano on Saturdays but I wouldn't say I get any climbing in.

Kind of a long shot, but does anyone in Dallas know what's up with climb Oso? Rumor has it it's vaguely open and I'd love to go since it's right by where I work.

Well if you're ever down to try Canyons in Frisco, I can do guest passes once a month. I usually go with people from work during our lunch breaks m/w/f, but it's 20 mins from my house otherwise. Been climbing about a year and been flirting with v7 and 5.12 for a bit now where essentially my tendons are the main thing holding me back at the moment. Also lead certified (took the lead class at Summit Plano) w/grigri (the new version), harness, crash pad, etc. Next year I plan on getting some draws, rope, and probably a set of cams/nuts/etc and try venturing outdoors.

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED
I'm starting to get a bunion on one foot. The two major issues for me is that my toes are long and I can't find a climbing shoe with a toe box large enough for them, and that the foot in question is about 2/3 of a size larger than the other, so it's literally impossible to find a pair of shoes that fits both feet.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Which shoes have the largest toe boxes? Is there any way to buy a pair of shoes of different sizes?

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Roil posted:

Well if you're ever down to try Canyons in Frisco, I can do guest passes once a month. I usually go with people from work during our lunch breaks m/w/f, but it's 20 mins from my house otherwise. Been climbing about a year and been flirting with v7 and 5.12 for a bit now where essentially my tendons are the main thing holding me back at the moment. Also lead certified (took the lead class at Summit Plano) w/grigri (the new version), harness, crash pad, etc. Next year I plan on getting some draws, rope, and probably a set of cams/nuts/etc and try venturing outdoors.

Canyons is too far really now that Summit has so many locations, I haven't been there in..close to 10 years I think. Also there're 2 gyms opening in the design district in the next 6ish months which'll be right next to where I work. I'm making an effort to go outside more with a goal of once a month though, so we we can try to coordinate that if you want. I'm going to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch this weekend with 6 or 7 other people, but probably a bit short notice. Weather's looking really nice aside from some rain on Friday. I want to make it out to Hueco Tanks sometime this winter too, but who knows, long rear end drive and kind of painful to set everything up with the tours etc. Some of the people I climb with go every winter though so hopefully I can just follow along and they'll organize it all.

Honestly there's a world of difference between venturing outside with draws and uh..cams and nuts and stuff ... I took the Texas Mountaineers trad class a very long time ago, and it was pretty neat for the price, 2 days of essentially guided trad climbing where someone will look over your placements and you can follow them up things to see how they protected the route. I wouldn't say it makes you ready to actually trad lead anything difficult, but it'll at least give you an idea if you even want to do trad without buying a bunch of poo poo you may never want to use. I did try to trad lead something myself after the class, but I essentially ended up free soloing 2 pitches of 5.5, with a neat epic in the middle where I dropped my ATC off the cliff off at the end of the first pitch and had to down climb to retrieve it. Unrelated but I have a bunch of 15 year old trad gear I'll never use if anyone wants it.

Mezzanon
Sep 16, 2003

Pillbug

Verviticus posted:

i went outside to squamish (which is apparently a great place for bouldering) and i just didn't like it. felt like a long way to do stuff that's less fun just because its outdoors


Climbing outdoors is great because you can just chirp at your friends for being better/worse than you and then after you can go camping/eat/drink. Also the outdoors is majestic as gently caress.




ShaneB posted:

Climbing indoors is fun because colors

Climbing indoors is fun because the problems are curated and obvious, plus you can chirp your friends. And there’s music.

Verviticus
Mar 13, 2006

I'm just a total piece of shit and I'm not sure why I keep posting on this site. Christ, I have spent years with idiots giving me bad advice about online dating and haven't noticed that the thread I'm in selects for people that can't talk to people worth a damn.
you can already do those things after climbing in the gym though. even camping if you really wanted to for some reason

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armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.
If you don't want to go climb outdoors, I support your descision 100%. One fewer person at the crag that way.

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