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White trousers will forever be the bane of my existence, but I think I've hit on a recipe that does the job reasonably:
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Oct 3, 2019 07:52
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Yeah, that’s some great looking white cloth! What’s the secret?
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Oct 3, 2019 08:21
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Revelation 2-13 posted:Yeah, that’s some great looking white cloth! What’s the secret? Thanks! I use a mix of ranges, but I primed with Tamiya's Grey Surface Primer, then did a couple of coats of Citadel's Administratum Grey, then a coat of Vallejo Game Colour Ghost Grey, leaving the previous colour in the recesses and folds, then a highlight along the raised edges with Vallejo Game Colour Dead White.
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Oct 3, 2019 09:25
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I think Ulthuan Grey is a rough equivalent to VGC Ghost Grey, and Dead White is just plain white.
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Oct 3, 2019 09:27
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Quick question about holders. At the moment I put my miniatures on Tamiya pots and hold them with some BlueTac. It's not ideal. So I'm looking into holders. I don't like GW's because it seems to be made to hold a base, not a model directly (and I like to keep the mini away from the base when I paint). I've looked at Green Stuff World and found this. But I don't understand how it works. Are you supposed to drill the mini and put the bits inside, then attach the bits to the holder?
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Oct 3, 2019 12:23
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I finished up my Redemptor:
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Oct 3, 2019 12:35
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Furism posted:Quick question about holders. At the moment I put my miniatures on Tamiya pots and hold them with some BlueTac. It's not ideal. So I'm looking into holders. I don't like GW's because it seems to be made to hold a base, not a model directly (and I like to keep the mini away from the base when I paint). I've looked at Green Stuff World and found this. But I don't understand how it works. Are you supposed to drill the mini and put the bits inside, then attach the bits to the holder? Yeah. It's just a large piece of cork. You put wire into your model and then shove that into the base. I use bits of sprue solvent welded to subassemblies, and pieces of cork with magnetic sheet on top to hold on to bases that have steel washers in them.
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Oct 3, 2019 12:37
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R0ckfish posted:I finished up my Redemptor: Those black highlights are fuckin' amazing! Fantastic job!
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Oct 3, 2019 13:05
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Furism posted:Quick question about holders. At the moment I put my miniatures on Tamiya pots and hold them with some BlueTac. It's not ideal. So I'm looking into holders. I don't like GW's because it seems to be made to hold a base, not a model directly (and I like to keep the mini away from the base when I paint). I've looked at Green Stuff World and found this. But I don't understand how it works. Are you supposed to drill the mini and put the bits inside, then attach the bits to the holder? https://www.fredericus-rex.eu/en/Colors-brushes-Accessories-Acrylic-colors/accessories/Painting-Accessories/Halter-004.html
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Oct 3, 2019 13:08
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Furism posted:Quick question about holders. At the moment I put my miniatures on Tamiya pots and hold them with some BlueTac. It's not ideal. So I'm looking into holders. I don't like GW's because it seems to be made to hold a base, not a model directly (and I like to keep the mini away from the base when I paint). I've looked at Green Stuff World and found this. But I don't understand how it works. Are you supposed to drill the mini and put the bits inside, then attach the bits to the holder? I think there are 2 ways that one can work, either clamped on to a pin coming out the bottom of your model, or with 4 pins inserted into the holes on the face plate and then clamped around a base. Personally I like the gw one, I temporarily glue my model to a spare base to paint, then pop it off and onto the final base when I'm finished.
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Oct 3, 2019 16:09
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 Flowers - yay or nay?
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Oct 4, 2019 18:46
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more flowers
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Oct 4, 2019 18:59
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I would say no to the flowers. They draw the eye away from the models, which should be the focal point. If your models were brighter, it could work, but as they are now, I think keeping your bases a neutral color is best.
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Oct 4, 2019 19:08
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Avenging Dentist posted:I would say no to the flowers. They draw the eye away from the models, which should be the focal point. If your models were brighter, it could work, but as they are now, I think keeping your bases a neutral color is best. Same.
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Oct 4, 2019 19:34
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A friend recommended dead grass instead, maybe I will try that instead. Maybe I will try a field of flowers for the raven guard im starting.
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Oct 4, 2019 19:40
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I totally get what you’re going for, but as the others said they’re unfortunately too bright for your models. You could try giving them a brown wash though to try and bring them down and rot them up a bit.
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Oct 4, 2019 20:17
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I say no flowers but only because I like Death Guard bases to look like they're killing the very land they touch. If they were dead flowers I think it would work more. ijyt's idea is a good one, although i've found that those flowers aren't sealed, so when liquid hits them the color tends to run. Test it out before committing. I do like flowers on bases though - I'm currently doing that for my French Bolt Action army.
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Oct 4, 2019 21:19
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You could go the other way and just go recklessly overboard with flowers, but drybrush them grey, brown and yellowish green immediately behind and around the model indicating death where they tread actually that's a bad idea too late though aaaannndddd POST
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Oct 4, 2019 21:27
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No flowers. I will try to put a raven guard dude in a field a flowers next. Thank you for the opinions and advice
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Oct 4, 2019 22:04
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I say yes to the flowers. Especially the color you have selected. It meshes well. I suspect the whole package looks more cohesive irl compared to the pictures. The only thing is I’d try and push more highlights on the models themselves to help balance the brightness.
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Oct 4, 2019 23:04
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:I say yes to the flowers. Especially the color you have selected. It meshes well. I’m new, can you explain the highlights?
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Oct 5, 2019 04:06
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i'vw thought about going all in on the fecundity of nurgle and having flowers and moss sprouting out of my bloatdrones and tanks
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Oct 5, 2019 08:42
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SEX HAVER 40000 posted:i'vw thought about going all in on the fecundity of nurgle and having flowers and moss sprouting out of my bloatdrones and tanks
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Oct 5, 2019 13:44
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Pierzak posted:Make all of them lovely invasive species so potential survivors have to deal with another green plague afterwards. Kudzu and those giant flowers that smell like rotting meat.
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Oct 5, 2019 14:08
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I've got a couple of quick questions: I'm mixing my paints with water at the moment to thin them, but I'm finding they dry too quickly (I live in Australia), will using lahmian medium or dry retarder to thin my paints help? Secondly, I'm looking for a replacement for my ancient hexpot of elf grey is ulthuan grey the same colour? Same question with ice blue and lothern blue? Painted a second chainrasp and I'm much happier with the robes, still trying to smooth out the transitions between highlights and bases. 
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Oct 5, 2019 14:14
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Drying retarder is what you’ll want yep, and it’ll have the added bonus of letting you play around with wet blending to get those transitions even smoother.
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Oct 5, 2019 14:22
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ijyt posted:Drying retarder is what you’ll want yep, and it’ll have the added bonus of letting you play around with wet blending to get those transitions even smoother. Thanks very much.
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Oct 5, 2019 14:41
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Grabbed some boyz and did three-stage zenithal priming with rattle cans. I’m not happy with the finish (spotty/snowy effect, ended up with too-thick primer and obscured details in highlights) but the effect for ork skin looks really promising. Maybe some time down the road I’ll get an airbrush and revisit, but for now I’ll probably go back to just white or grey priming. Very much WIP: 
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Oct 5, 2019 15:22
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I've had similar issues with trying to rattlecan zenithial prime, the white always covers strange and 3 blasts of spray paint feels like too much.
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Oct 5, 2019 15:50
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When I was doing zenithal priming with cans I found stopping at grey mostly good enough, white was just too troublesome. I’ve heard of people using white ink as the final zenithal highlight applied by brush.
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Oct 5, 2019 16:36
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Vallejo Airbrush Medium is also the popular choice for thinning that won't accelerate drying like water (note: not their air thinner). I also like W&N flow improver and got very good wet blending results with it. Vallejo retarder medium is too much of a thick gel that I found tricky to work around.
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Oct 5, 2019 16:42
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Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver is the magic secret sauce. Can we get that at the top of every page? Vallejo Airbrush Thinner is best used when you have a paint that isn't aerosolizing well. It helps break it down. I use it monthly when painting, as opposed to every god damned day with Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver. Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver: It is for more than just airbrushes.
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Oct 5, 2019 16:59
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dexefiend posted:Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver is the magic secret sauce. The flow improver is just thinner (water, retarder, isopropyl alcohol) without the retarder. If you don't want dry tip I believe the thinner is better. I think that's right. Someone correct me if not.
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Oct 5, 2019 17:09
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You don’t always want flow improver, especially when wet blending. Just retarder gives better control over the paint. The key is to use the right tool for the job and not look for a one-in-all solution.
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Oct 5, 2019 17:39
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Does glaze medium contain a drying retardant too, or do I need to pick that separately? I'd like to play around with blending a bit but water-thinned paint definitely dries too fast.
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Oct 5, 2019 17:56
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Does glaze medium contain a drying retardant too, or do I need to pick that separately? I'd like to play around with blending a bit but water-thinned paint definitely dries too fast. Glaze medium is pretty much just medium, just not specifically gloss or matte (usually semi-gloss). The difference here is that most retarders are additives, which don't contain binders to bind the paint pigment. Glaze medium will extend your working time the same way adding a little water does to a paint on a palette before its completely dried, but it (usually) doesn't have any specific properties to slow drying time. Essentially glaze medium is useful if you want to thin your paint from opaque to transparent without changing its properties too much. Instead of making your paint runny and watery, it'll keep its consistency/viscosity. Flow Improver: Washes Gloss Medium: Glazes with richer colour Matte Medium: Reducing shine of paint (but not necessarily for thinning) Glaze Medium: Glazes Retarder: Slow drying and blending As far as I can tell stuff like Vallejo Thinner are a mix of medium and retarder, while the flow improver is pretty much the same as from any artists brand like W&N, Golden, or Liquitex. Flow improvers can have properties of retarder, but the key thing to remember is they'll break the surface tension of water-based acrylics, unlike pure retarders.
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Oct 5, 2019 18:18
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Ropes4u posted:I’m new, can you explain the highlights? Mobile posting so forgive the lack of photos; basically adding more drastic edge highlighting. This expands the range of hues on your models and also helps frame the eye on the model. It’s most easily recognizable on space marines / distinct armor. For your dudes, that would be highlighting edges with brighter greens and even some yellows. That would balance out the flowers on the base. I’m bad at explaining but there’s a bunch of good painters in this thread who can explain better than I.
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Oct 5, 2019 18:45
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Cthulu Carl posted:Kudzu and those giant flowers that smell like rotting meat. Speaking of rafflesia, I used to use those jungle tree sprues that came with the old battleforces to make rafflesia stand ins. If you do bright colored nurgle to go for the fecund, vivid neon mold and rot growth stuff that could be a good idea.  You can kinda see it there on the base. Please excuse the terrible 15 year old paint job.
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Oct 5, 2019 18:51
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Mobile posting so forgive the lack of photos; basically adding more drastic edge highlighting. This expands the range of hues on your models and also helps frame the eye on the model. It’s most easily recognizable on space marines / distinct armor. I understand, I will see what I can do when i get back home.
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Oct 5, 2019 20:05
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Harvey Mantaco posted:The flow improver is just thinner (water, retarder, isopropyl alcohol) without the retarder. If you don't want dry tip I believe the thinner is better. This is backwards I believe, it's the thinner that doesn't have retarder and is more likely to give you dry tip.
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Oct 5, 2019 21:15
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