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A ryzen 3700x isn't as fast but it will have no problem handling 1440p for like 4-5 years maybe. It won't be the bottleneck in your system. And yeah a tower is a big rear end fan and heatsink. They can be very effective and quiet.
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Oct 9, 2019 02:11
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Actually, if you're going Intel, just spend the extra $25 on the 9900K so you don't lose Quick Sync in case you have a use case for it (plus additional video outputs should the need arise). Who cares about $25 with a build like that. If it was my money though, I'd probably go with an AMD 3700X and ditch the 9900K. Noctua D15 instead of that AIO cooler (plus it now comes in black so you don't have to get something like a Cryorig R1 anymore just for looks) I'd also hang on the GTX 1080 for now unless you're really itching for more fps or want to play ray-traced stuff. Really depends on what you want to play though. If you really want to get a new card, then maybe hold off till Black Friday or holidays or something to see if there are deals to be had. I'm sure the 1080 will hold you over till then.
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Oct 9, 2019 02:22
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For a CPU to give better performance, you generally need to be CPU-limited - that is, using a powerful gpu and tweaking settings to get as high of fps as possible (increasing cpu load) by turning down the graphics and/or reducing resolution. If you try to eke out as much fps as possible, a 9900k might be worth it (though a 9700k will often perform as well or better). If you like turning up graphics settings, with a 1080 at 1440p there's really not much of a difference between a 9900k, 9700k, 3700x, or 3600 (or even 2600, for that matter). Unless fps is king for you, I'd recommend starting from a 3600 build and considering upgrades from there (that should be ~$350-400 less). The AM4 platform has a lot of drop-in upgrade options if you need more cores later, and there's a decent chance that the next generation of AMD cpus will be compatible with current motherboards (unlike Intel, which locks you to one, maybe two generations). AMD cpus also come with adequate stock coolers, so you don't have to worry about the extra cost unless you want something quieter. Here's where I'd start: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.79 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.79 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($140.99 @ B&H) Storage: *HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($108.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: *Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg) Total: $824.54 Motherboard: The Asus TUF is a good full-featured board, but the $150 Phantom Gaming 4 is an excellent value if you don't care about the usb-c port (and you can always add one later with a pcie card). Memory: Crucial is a good brand for not too much than the Patriot kit, and overclocks well with extra voltage. 32GB is an overkill for gaming (games are just barely starting to use more than 8) but like Mu Zeta said, it's not too much more expensive! Case: The S2 is a very big case. Unless you have of a ton of drives to put in it I'd consider the Meshify C instead (and if you do have a ton of drives, I'd consider moving them to a NAS). E: PSU: 750W isn't needed for a 3600/1080, but right now there don't seem to be any decent deals on 650W models! Pellisworth posted:I'm dumb, by "large tower cooler" do you just mean a bigass fan? Big-rear end heatsink (plus decent fan). The Noctua D15s is the gold standard, and is quieter and cooler than all the very-top-end liquid coolers. The Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B is nearly as quiet and cool for $30 less. Constellation I posted:I'd also hang on the GTX 1080 for now unless you're really itching for more fps or want to play ray-traced stuff. Really depends on what you want to play though. If you really want to get a new card, then maybe hold off till Black Friday or holidays or something to see if there are deals to be had. I'm sure the 1080 will hold you over till then. I'll second this, too. If it does what you want to do, there's no need to upgrade. Since Nvidia's next generation is moving down to 7nm, there's a good chance that it'll be a decent price/performance boost when it launches next year. Any current card that offers a decent performance boost is going to be $600+ dollars, outside of maybe trading up to a used 1080 ti (which would be out of warranty or close to it). Stickman fucked around with this message at 03:30 on Oct 9, 2019 |
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Oct 9, 2019 02:41
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I basically just built the build you posted Pellisworth, and you really, really don't need it for gaming and running Office. Definitely save some bux on the CPU and take the other goons' suggestions into consideration. I really like the Meshify C over the S2 if you aren't going to fill it with HDDs (its smaller lengthwise, and the C still has 2 HDD bays under the PSU shroud). The D15s everyone suggests does cool great, but man, is it abysmal to work with/around. I probably would go with some water loop if I had to do it again. The HP EX920 is fantastic and I just bought a second one for my laptop.
AgentCow007 fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Oct 9, 2019 |
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Oct 9, 2019 03:06
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I have two Fury X graphic cards in my machine that I bought 4yrs ago, and I'm concerned about the water pumps/hoses failing due to age. Am I being paranoid?
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Oct 9, 2019 03:50
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I ended up going with mostly Stickman's build. Thanks everyone for your time and consideration! It sounds like I'll have a powerful gaming build for a few years. A semi-related question: what's the best way to get a copy of Windows 10 and MS Office? I'm college faculty but poking around the googles it seems like a pain in the rear end to get an education-discounted copy of Windows and Office
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Oct 9, 2019 04:33
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You can buy codes on eBay or our own SA mart. For what it's worth I much prefer my H115i pro over an air cooler just for how easy it is to use and how it puts the heat right out of the case. It's personal preference.
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Oct 9, 2019 04:41
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Stickman posted:Motherboard: The X570-A Pro (and identical MSi Gaming Plus) have pretty terrible VRM cooling. They'd work for a 3600, but there are better value boards, depending on the features you want. While I don't think I'd suggest the cheaper MSI X570 boards like the X570-A Pro or Gaming Plus/Edge/Wi-Fi/etc. over other options at this point (more because of MSI's handling of the whole X570/Zen 2 launch in general so far), people continually pointing to the Hardware Unboxed testing for X570 VRM temperatures should probably consider what realistic setups are going to be like for people buying those boards. The tests Steve ran are essentially worst-case scenario with zero airflow, which pretty much nobody should see. If there's any airflow in the system, the sporadic posts I've actually seen from people with slightly lopsided combinations like an X570-A Pro and 3900X seem to be getting VRM temperatures in the upper 40s to low 50s under load, which is around the same as I get on my 3600. If someone already owns one of those boards, it doesn't look like they should be worried about being able to upgrade to something like a 3900X down the line if they can get one for relatively cheap.
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Oct 9, 2019 04:41
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Grog posted:This isn't really germane to the suggestions, but I think I've seen this pointed out enough times recently that there should be a slight reality check. An open testbench being open helps make up for its lack of airflow. However what you say is true, but given that the pricing is the same, why not get the one with more-better VRM? Does the MSI have some features that make up for it?
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Oct 9, 2019 12:32
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Pellisworth posted:A semi-related question: what's the best way to get a copy of Windows 10 and MS Office? I'm college faculty but poking around the googles it seems like a pain in the rear end to get an education-discounted copy of Windows and Office Like VelociBacon said, you can get keys off of SAmart, Reddit, or eBay that work fine. Microsoft pivoted out of relying on Windows as a profit center so they walked back a lot of the restrictive practices they had like tying your key to your motherboard and having strict cutoffs for free version upgrades so now you can buy an old Windows 7 key and upgrade it to 10 no problem. No one should pay more than $25 for Windows.
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Oct 9, 2019 14:54
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You can just run Windows 10 without activation if you're desperate. You just can't change the desktop background and some other minor stuff. It's 100% functional.
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Oct 9, 2019 16:30
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Looking for an external Blu-ray drive, any suggestions?
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Oct 9, 2019 20:22
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Pellisworth posted:A semi-related question: what's the best way to get a copy of Windows 10 and MS Office? I'm college faculty but poking around the googles it seems like a pain in the rear end to get an education-discounted copy of Windows and Office Besides SAMart, if you have Windows 7/8/10 on your old machine, you should be able to use the key to activate Windows 10 on your new machine (assuming you're decommissioning your old machine)! Office should transfer too. There's also a $100/year Office 365 subscription. It's not a great deal for one person, but comes with 5 licenses that can be shared with other people. If split it with family members it's not a bad deal for perpetual upgrades! Grog posted:This isn't really germane to the suggestions, but I think I've seen this pointed out enough times recently that there should be a slight reality check. These are good points! If you have an -A Pro/Gaming Plus/Edge it's more it's plenty for a 3600. That said, it's not really cheap X570s in general, just the -A Pro/Gaming Plus that has relatively poor VRM (slightly worse than the B450 Tomahawk, even!) That's made it hard to recommend both because AM4 has such easy drop-in upgrade options (and most people keep their CPU/motherboard for a long time), and because poor VRM can reduce board longevity (though again, it'll mostly likely never have problems, even with a 3900x/3950x). Other cheap AM4 are much better situated for VRM, as is the currently-equally-priced B450 Pro Carbon AC (which gets you wireless/bluetooth in exchange for PCIe 4.0 and only x2 on the second M.2 slot). 50 degrees is better than I expected with a 3900X, but I'd probably still consider getting one of the alternatives! Lube banjo posted:Does the MSI have some features that make up for it? The main difference between the -A Pro/Gaming Plus/Edge and other similarly-priced boards is the Gen 2 type-C connector. Many cheaper board like the ASRock X570 Phantom 4 have no type-c ports, and the Gigabyte X570 UD doesn't have any Gen 2 ports for some reason. The ASRock X570 Pro 4 looks like it's also down to $150 now, so that'd probably be my go-to budget X570 recommendation for 3600 builds. It's basically feature-equivalent to the -A Pro/Gaming Plus except for the ALC1200 instead of ALC1220 audio codec, which seem to be pretty much identical from the limited information available. The Pro 4 also has a E-key M.2 slot for adding wifi support.
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Oct 9, 2019 21:06
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BENGHAZI 2 posted:Looking for an external Blu-ray drive, any suggestions? This thing is awesome, makes any 5.25" optical drive an external drive. I use it because I occasionally require a BDR, but I don't want a 5.25" drive messing up the look of my case (and I literally used a dremel to cut the 5.25" bays out anyway to make more space for radiators).
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Oct 10, 2019 00:15
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Indiana_Krom posted:https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-NST-536S3-BK-NexStar-External-Enclosure/dp/B01MRUN0HQ/ Can confirm that it is great. One thing to note however is that it isn't USB powered unlike purely external blu ray drives, so you'll need to be around a power outlet. Not an issue for desktop use, but can be an issue for laptops.
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Oct 10, 2019 00:32
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What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? VR and gaming What's your budget? "Soft" budget of $1500, but willing to spend more if it's worthwhile If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? I'll probably buy a 1440 monitor as well (suggestions welcomed). Soooo... The last time I built a PC, I was overclocking my Celeron 300A. That's, like, what? Twenty years ago? At any rate, I haven't really been following PC hardware since then, so while I have a rough idea of what I want, I'm not sure of what brands/models to go with or where my bottlenecks might be. I'm leaning towards an AMD Ryzen build with an Nvidia RTX 2070 super. I also don't really care about case bells and whistles and would prefer something cheap, quiet and easy to cool. I currently have a Rift, so I'd need a good half a dozen USB 3.0 ports. I also don't know anything about cooling, so suggestions on CPU/GPU fans (if any) would be great, too. I also don't mind spending a little more money on an easier setup, so if possible I'd like to avoid flashing BIOSes and other hoop jumping. Thanks in advance!
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Oct 10, 2019 02:14
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Lube banjo posted:An open testbench being open helps make up for its lack of airflow. Lube banjo posted:Does the MSI have some features that make up for it? Again, I wasn't suggesting people buy the MSI boards. Don't. I own an X570-A Pro and wouldn't suggest people buy one over another company's offerings. Other boards from other companies are available around the same price with similar features and are actually having their BIOS/UEFI updated regularly, etc. compared to the way MSI has handled things so far. If I hadn't been outside of the return window already, I would have exchanged my X570-A Pro for a board from a different company. But, thankfully I haven't had any actual problems with mine so far. It works fine and the BIOS updates have worked fine. The only thing I haven't checked yet is whether the 1.0.0.3 ABBA update has improved the RAM compatibility/overclockability at all.
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Oct 10, 2019 02:31
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Epic Doctor Fetus posted:What country are you in? USA Something like this should be great for 1440p + VR: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.79 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: ASRock X570 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($159.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($74.99 @ Adorama) Storage: HP EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($107.89 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card ($519.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg) Total: $1237.53 AMD cpus come with adequate stock coolers. You could buy a third-party cooler if you find it a little too loud, but I'd start with stock. X570 boards are also the boards that have a lot of USB 3.1 ports, so that lines up nicely with not wanting to flash! The Pro 4 has 6 3.1 Gen 1 Ports, 1x gen 2 type-A, and 1xgen 2 type-C, which should be more than plenty for a rift + whatever else you want! If you don't care about RAYZ, the 5700 XT has performance pretty darn close to a 2070 Super for $100 less. The PowerColor Red Dragon, Sapphire Pulse, Gigabyte Gaming OC, or PowerColor Red Devil are all good choices. E: If you have a copy of Windows 7/8/10 from an old decommissioned computer, you can reuse that to activate Windows 10. Otherwise you can buy and a Windows 7 Pro key from SAMart for $25 and use that to activate Windows 10 Pro. Stickman fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 03:14
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I don't know how yall buy $500 video cards I mean god drat
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Oct 10, 2019 04:46
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Mu Zeta posted:I don't know how yall buy $500 video cards I mean god drat Micro Center gave me 5% off for using their card and the new CoD, apparently that's my break point  I also got $300 out of my 1080 and $70 from selling two CoD codes from my coil whine return nightmare ...and a $20 rebate that I'm sure I'll get any day now Endymion FRS MK1 fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 05:11
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Mu Zeta posted:I don't know how yall buy $500 video cards I mean god drat You must not have been around for the 2080 Ti release!
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Oct 10, 2019 05:22
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Building a gaming PC for a friend. We have a 1.2k budget and I think the R5 3600 is gonna be the best processor. No overclocking planned. Problem is the X570 motherboards are almost the cost of the processor which is pretty ridiculous. I guess I can buy a random B450 motherboard, but then that would require the hassle of getting and returning some burner AMD CPU which makes it a nonstarter. Is there a cheaper intel CPU+mobo combo? e: I know ya'll talk about VRM a bunch when it comes to mobo quality, but does any of that stuff actually matter with a midrange stock CPU? I hardly ever hear anything about motherboards failing, and i've always gotten by with cheap mobos with high marks on newegg. e2: there's also the fear of overbuying a high end X prefix motherboard because isn't AM4 finally getting ditched at the end of next year? The next CPU upgrade would possibly necessitate a new motherboard then right? buglord fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 06:56
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Stickman posted:You must not have been around for the 2080 Ti release! 2080ti here in Aus still runs arou d $1700 dollars. It's just insane.
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Oct 10, 2019 07:05
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buglord posted:Building a gaming PC for a friend. We have a 1.2k budget and I think the R5 3600 is gonna be the best processor. No overclocking planned. Problem is the X570 motherboards are almost the cost of the processor which is pretty ridiculous. I guess I can buy a random B450 motherboard, but then that would require the hassle of getting and returning some burner AMD CPU which makes it a nonstarter. You're right that power-efficient cpus like the 3600 or 2600 don't really need fancy VRMs (though the 2600 can overclock a bit with a little extra juice). The very bottom-of-the-barrel can indeed be bad enough that it'll still impact motherboard lifespan, though it's difficult to separate from the fact that the bottom-of-the-barrel boards also cut other corners. In the past buying better VRM for a given price range meant better overclocking and the ability to upgrade to more power-hungry chips, but Ryzen 3 has no overclocking headroom and most slightly-above-bottom boards are good enough to run a 3900x with a bit of airflow. There's a very good chance that the 4th gen Ryzen will still be AM4, so we'll see what that brings! Keep in mind that you could also upgrade to a 3700x/3900x/3950x down the road, and if 4th-gen is AM4 compatible they'll probably be available for pretty cheap. Most MSi B450 have a "flash bios" button that let's you update the bios before you install the CPU. For ATX, I usually start recommendations with the MSI B450-A Pro, since it's about as cheap as B450 boards get but has decent enough VRM to upgrade to a more power-hungry CPU down the line. The Tomahawk adds a type-c usb port and a small VRM upgrade. The B450 Pro Carbon AC ups the VRM a bit more, adds a second M.2 slot, improves audio, and adds wifi/bluetooth. If MAX versions are available in your area, you'll get the fancier gui-based bios. For X570 boards, the best value board right now is probably the ASRock X570 Pro 4. Compared to the B450 Pro Carbon, you get PCIe 4 (not really useful right now), extra usb 3 ports, the second M.2 slot runs at a full x4 instead of x2 (again, probably not super important), and gui bios. You lose the integrated wifi, but it does have a key E M.2 slot for a wifi card (usually ~$15-20 for a card/antenna kit). The ASRock X570 Phantom 4 is a good choice if you don't care about the type-c usb port. From what I'm picking up about your friend's use case, I probably wouldn't bother buying anything more expensive. E: If you're not buying right away, there's been rumblings that B550 might be launching in the next month. They probably aren't worth waiting for, though - just keep it in mind if you're already waiting. Stickman fucked around with this message at 07:21 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 07:19
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Yeah HP apparently has desktops with B550 boards coming out soon so the direct consumer mobos shouldn't be far behind. Though I read those will be coming in early 2020.
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Oct 10, 2019 07:46
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Recent news indicates that Zen 3 not will ship with DDR5 support or 4 threads per core so most tech tubers say it is now very unlikely they will abandon AM4 for Zen 3 next year. With those upgrades being pushed back to Zen 4 in 2021, they say it makes a lot more sense for them to change sockets at that point and not before. Nothing official mind you, just people reading tea leaves from leaked slides and such. But most of them went from Zen 3 probably being on AM4 to it would be kind of dumb to abandon AM4 next year if we aren't getting DDR 5 or SMT4.
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Oct 10, 2019 07:53
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Has anyone built anything in an NZXT H510 Elite and had problems with the case partially blocking ports on their video card? I just built a new comp in that case and I cant get a signal to the monitor. The plug is in the port and it locks in, but in feel like it's just slightly out too much. I didnt want to force it or anything, so I gave up for the night. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Oct 10, 2019 09:08
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ZombieCrew posted:Has anyone built anything in an NZXT H510 Elite and had problems with the case partially blocking ports on their video card? I just built a new comp in that case and I cant get a signal to the monitor. The plug is in the port and it locks in, but in feel like it's just slightly out too much. I didnt want to force it or anything, so I gave up for the night. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I don’t know about the case issue itself, but I’d start by trying different ports and cables if you can. If you have an igpu, try that as well. You could also try pulling the motherboard out of the case to see if the port interference is the issue, though that might be a pita depending on your set up.
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Oct 10, 2019 09:12
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Apparently the B450 Tomahawk MAX is in stock on Newegg for US customers, which lines up to what the B&H page said for expected availability about mid-October.
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Oct 10, 2019 14:07
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I built a system for gaming (nothing especially intense) in the winter of 2016. It was my first build from scratch and, altogether, things went well. It's still going strong today. Maybe I should leave things alone since there isn't a glaring issue, but I'm kind of looking for a project for my winter break (I teach college) and there are a couple minor improvements I'd like to see. This is what I'm working with now: Corsair Obsidian 250D case (this is a small cube case that doesn't permit a full-size mobo, one of the things I'd like to change) Intel i7 6700K (I'd prefer not to change this) 2X 8 gig ddr4 288-pin (I'd be interested in doubling this cheaply, perhaps with a mobo that can accommodate 4 sticks) GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 192-Bit GDDR5 (no opinion on keep/replace) Corsair Hydro Series H60 liquid cooler (120 mm radiator) 500W power supply HP 1920x1080 25" 60HZ monitor (vaguely interested in v-sync, but scared away by the prices and don't want to change out intel chip so freesync is out) I like the small case, but it's impossible to fit an optical drive along with everything else (at least as far as I can tell) and I'm sick of using an external drive with slow speeds when I rip DVDs I borrow from the library. So, I want to move into a bigger case. This will permit a bigger mobo with more fan headers (a limitation that forced me into some inelegant cable management) and more RAM slots. My questions are these: is it stupid/pointless to increase my RAM? Is it stupid/pointless to add an optical drive? Will the 6700K continue to suffice as long as I'm not expecting anything greater than adequate performance with modern games? Would there be a GPU available for sub-$200 that would give me an appreciable upgrade over what I've got? I'm happy to pick the parts myself and figure out what will work. I'm mostly interested in whether there are benefits to be had by making the limited changes I'm thinking of. I'd be fine going ahead even without a big improvement, but if y'all think it's a waste of time I'd like to hear it. edit: I'm in the USA.
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Oct 10, 2019 14:16
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Racing Stripe posted:I built a system for gaming (nothing especially intense) in the winter of 2016. It was my first build from scratch and, altogether, things went well. It's still going strong today. Maybe I should leave things alone since there isn't a glaring issue, but I'm kind of looking for a project for my winter break (I teach college) and there are a couple minor improvements I'd like to see. This is what I'm working with now: Firstly, freesync/gsync is entirely dependant on your GPU, not your CPU, so having an Intel chip in there doesn't matter at all. Secondly no, you have basically no reason to upgrade at your price point. Switching mobos is a complete rebuild from an effort standpoint. The 6700K is fine, your ram is fine, and there's no great upgrade from your GPU <$200 (on second look you have the 3gb version, but a solid upgrade is still $220-250). And cursor googling suggests having an internal drive won't help as you're more likely to be limited by drive speed more than bus speed.
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Oct 10, 2019 14:36
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ItBreathes posted:Firstly, freesync/gsync is entirely dependant on your GPU, not your CPU, so having an Intel chip in there doesn't matter at all. Succinct and informative. Thanks. Though, if I don't make any moves on RAM/board/anything else, I'd be willing to drop a few more bucks on a GPU if the benefits are there. That 3GB figure seems like something you've focused on - you think it'd be worth it to look for something higher there, and possibly open the door to gsync/freesync?
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Oct 10, 2019 14:57
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Racing Stripe posted:I built a system for gaming (nothing especially intense) in the winter of 2016. It was my first build from scratch and, altogether, things went well. It's still going strong today. Maybe I should leave things alone since there isn't a glaring issue, but I'm kind of looking for a project for my winter break (I teach college) and there are a couple minor improvements I'd like to see. This is what I'm working with now: With all that said, your current setup should be fine for a while. If you start to notice its age just start OCing the GPU and CPU and you'll likely get at least another year out of both before you notice again. VVV agreed, if you can find a 2060 on sale and don't mind spending a bit more that would definitely be an excellent upgrade. Scruff McGruff fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 14:59
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Racing Stripe posted:Succinct and informative. Thanks. The 3gb version has a cut down version of the GPU chip compared to the 6gb one, so it's somewhat less powerful than I had thought on first read. Nvidia enabled freesync over display port for 10-series and newer cards earlier this year so you can use it already. Don't worry about it being certified 'gsync-compatable' as that only means that both Nvidia has tested it and it meets their high standards for monitor quality, any freesync monitor will work, though there are a lot of crappy freesync monitors out there so solicit opinions based on your desired resolution/refresh rate/price point (not something I'm up to date on). Gsync locks you into Nvidia and only gets put in high end monitors that'll be out of your price range. At 1080p the 1660ti is a solid upgrade but it's hard to say what it should cost, 1660 can be had for $200 and 2060 for $300, so don't pay more than $250 or so. With a great sale they can be less, but you'll often see them for more and you'd be better off stepping up to a 2060 than paying 270-280 for a 1660ti.
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Oct 10, 2019 15:08
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I think you need to think of the monitor as the focal point of your decision making process. If you are happy with 1080p at 60 Hz, there is very little to be done except moving into a more spacious case and adding an optical drive if that is your thing as others have said. If you had a high refresh rate monitor, it would be worthwhile talking about GPUs since upgrading from 60Hz is a real benefit even at 1080p. But the monitor is your primary bottleneck for improvement and any sensible upgrade at this point will necessitate changing both the GPU and monitor out together. It makes little sense buying a GPU that can potentially service a high refresh rate monitor at 1080p or 60+ fps in a 1440p or 2160p environment if you aren't immediately seeing benefits. Better to save money and upgrade both simultaneously and enjoy cheaper prices or increased performance down the road.
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Oct 10, 2019 16:35
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We’re at the point where there’s plenty of games that a 1060 3gb will struggle with, even at 1080p/60Hz. A 1660 Ti or 2060 is a sensible upgrade, especially if you keep the card for a couple of years. That said, if the 1060 is doing everything you want it to do now then there’s really no reason to upgrade until it starts feeling inadequate. [Babeltech benchmarks for 1660 Ti/2060 at 1080p/Ultra/Very High] E: AMD’s new 5500 should be launching soon (no date yet), and will probably compete have roughly 1660 performance while brining down the price a bit. Maybe the 1660 Ti too if they release an “XT” version. On the DVD burner question - you’re not going to see any improvement in rip times moving to internal. That’s a limitation of DVDs, not the interface - it’s just a ridiculously slow process. Stickman fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 18:19
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Stickman posted:Assuming you mean 1440p, here's some tweaks I'd suggest: Thanks for the input Stickman! I've done a little retooling based on your recommendations (prefer the 750W G3 based on JonnyGuru review, but keeping SeaSonic in contention) and thinking to just up to 3700X. If I do so, will I need a large HSF for it? OR are the temps tolerable with the stock cooler? PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VGRjXv CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($352.85 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard ($203.76 @ Amazon) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($81.49 @ Amazon) Storage: HP EX950 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($144.77 @ Amazon) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB PULSE Video Card ($450.43 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($96.51 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($149.40 @ Newegg) Custom: NX-EDG27s v2 ($379.99) Custom: Windows 7 ($25.00) Total: $1884.20 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-10 13:50 EDT-0400
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Oct 10, 2019 18:59
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Each Ryzen comes with a stock cooler that'll works decent - the 3700x comes with the Wraith Prism which is a heftier cooler than the 3600's Wraith Stealth. I took another look at X570 boards during the recent discussion, and the ASRock Pro 4 has a very similar feature set to the TUF and has the gen 2 type-c port that's missing from most other "budget" X570s. It's VRM is a small downgrade but it's still more than adequate for any AMD CPU, so it's worth considering saving the $20 at Amazon (or $30 from other vendors). If you want a 750W psu, I'd save some money and get a Corsair RM 750 (2019). It received good marks from PC Perspective and it's noise curve is pretty much equivalent to the G3.
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Oct 10, 2019 19:22
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MikeC posted:I think you need to think of the monitor as the focal point of your decision making process. If you are happy with 1080p at 60 Hz, there is very little to be done except moving into a more spacious case and adding an optical drive if that is your thing as others have said. All right, this kind of analysis is very helpful. If I start looking for a 120hz monitor and upgrade to something like the 1660 Ti, do I have to worry about somehow matching the monitor's refresh rate to the FPS the GPU can spit out? Like, is that somewhere in the tech specs of the GPU that I'll have to make sure matches up with my monitor?
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Oct 10, 2019 19:38
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Racing Stripe posted:All right, this kind of analysis is very helpful. If I start looking for a 120hz monitor and upgrade to something like the 1660 Ti, do I have to worry about somehow matching the monitor's refresh rate to the FPS the GPU can spit out? Like, is that somewhere in the tech specs of the GPU that I'll have to make sure matches up with my monitor? Not really - you just want to make sure to get a decent Freesync monitor. Freesync is an implementation of adaptive sync, which basically makes you monitor refresh only as fast as it receives frames whenever your frame rate is under the max refresh rate. In January Nvidia updated their drivers so all 10-, 16-, and 20- series cards are compatible with Freesync. They're also compatible with Gsync (NVidia's adaptive sync technology), but those monitors tend be more expensive than they're worth. If you're interested in high-refresh 1080p, there are several 1080p/144Hz/IPS Freesync monitors releasing soon: Acer Nitro VG240Y Pbiip AOC 24G2 Acer Nitro XV253Q P They'll probably be a bit under $200. E: If you're playing some of the newest AAA games and you like cranking up settings, there's several that'll just start to hit 60fps with a 2060 - AC:Odyssey, Metro:Exodus, Ghost Recon: Wildlands, etc. If you have games that your 1060 3gb is struggling with, an upgrade to a 1660 Ti could be worth it even without the monitor upgrade. Stickman fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Oct 10, 2019 |
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Oct 10, 2019 19:47
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