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Oct 11, 2019 01:48
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Imperador do Brasil posted:My wife complained about the FXT smelling horrible today... Literally skeletons rattling. 
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Oct 11, 2019 03:24
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Imperador do Brasil posted:My wife complained about the FXT smelling horrible today... yeah that'll do it
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Oct 11, 2019 07:02
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STR posted:Replaced it. I'll pour out a can of Monster energy drink in remembrance.
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Oct 11, 2019 08:06
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MrOnBicycle posted:Literally skeletons rattling. My favorite part was all the little ones stuck in the blower vanes
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Oct 11, 2019 11:10
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Yuck. Worst I’ve had to deal with is just having a pile of leaves and junk after ignoring the filter for too long.
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Oct 11, 2019 20:11
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Darchangel posted:Yuck. Worst I’ve had to deal with is just having a pile of leaves and junk after ignoring the filter for too long. This car has 223k miles on it and I would bet my own money that the cabin filter was never changed. I’ve owned it for two years and this is the first time I’m doing it. It was very well maintained by its single previous owner but the cabin filter is such an afterthought to most people.
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Oct 12, 2019 10:59
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There are some people who believe shocks and struts are lifetime parts.
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Oct 12, 2019 11:29
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We found out that the Ford Rangers we have at work have open plenum chambers- they’re not sealed off around the bonnet hinges. And so did the rats! And they would crawl into the plenums at night with the chestnuts from the trees where we parked cos it was warm... where they proceeded to eat the chestnuts and piss and poo poo all over the cabin filters. And then when they were full, they pushed the nuts past the filters into the fan, so not only did the air coming out of the vents reek of rat piss, but the dash tried to rattle itself apart from the fan being out of balance. That was on our PX1 Ranger. They still hadn’t closed in the plenum on the PX3...
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Oct 12, 2019 12:22
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Follow-up: I’m not sure I see a difference. What’s the big deal in changing cabin filters anyway?  
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Oct 12, 2019 21:38
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Christ, Subaru really doesn't want you to replace an oxygen sensor yourself, fucker is really wedged in there. It's done though. CEL popped back on about 2 miles later, with the same O2 code, which had me cussing up a storm. Until I got back home and looked under the hood. I.... was a bit frustrated when I unplugged the old sensor, and broke the retaining tab off of the car-side harness. Sensor unplugged itself while driving. Whoops. Zip ties save the day. I've only put a few more miles on it, but no pending codes, and I can actually see poo poo in Torque when I look at the AF sensor now. It does look like the cat is toast (based on watching the secondary O2 readings), but I kinda expected that since it has a lot of tape residue over the CEL:  I'll have to see if it pops P0  or not; I'll drive it a bit tomorrow to see if I can get most of the readiness monitors to set. TX allows one to show not ready to pass. The O2 sensor heater monitor did complete without setting any codes or tripping the CEL, so the new sensor is working. And with how cramped it is to get to that sensor, I'm glad I used an OEM sensor (Denso).First tank in it entirely on a dead O2 sensor: 15.2 mpg.  And apparently disconnecting the battery doesn't clear codes (but it does reset everything else, including shift points  ). Darchangel posted:Same colors as mine! Mine just has the gold accents on the wheels and markings, because ~*VDC*~. Also, I have the dual sunroofs, which is actually nice, but now I have to worry more about hail. Fabric that's in shockingly good condition. And it started life in NM (which doesn't require front plates), which is likely why it never got a proper front bracket. The front bumper is beat up, so I have no problem just zipping a couple of screws into it once I finally get plates. Had no clue about the monotone, I've never seen one that wasn't two colors. One wheel is missing the center cap, but they're in pretty good shape for their age (a little curb rash, not bad at all, but the tires are so meaty that you have to really try to curb the wheels up... 225/60 on this thing). Check your facebook messages, damnit. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Oct 12, 2019 |
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Oct 12, 2019 22:06
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I always enjoyed reading your posts about the Saturn. My cobalt went to the wrecking yard a month ago, @350k. Massive holes in the body, mismatched tires, air bag/cel/overheating/tire psi light on. Still never let me down. Sorry to hear about the Saturn! Replaced it with a 60k 2007 b2300 (ranger). Did the plugs yesterday, and a fuel filter. She's a beauty to work on!
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Oct 13, 2019 07:29
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Drove to the junkyard hoping to find a taillight (no such luck, they only had one Outback). Had Torque running the whole way. Temp was solid between 192-195 (guessing it uses a 195 degree thermostat). All of the emissions monitors went complete (including catalytic converter  ), except for evap. I suspect it has a bad evap purge valve, so I'm anxious to get it smogged before that test completes (TX allows one not ready). Hopefully they overlook the crack in the taillamp housing (it's on the top, not on the lens itself... fills up with water when it rains and pops the brake light bulb, though  ). Gonna ebay a new housing.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Oct 13, 2019 |
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Oct 13, 2019 17:50
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Can you get the lense off the light fixture? You could put some plumbers tape on the inside of the crack to keep it from filling up with water.
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Oct 13, 2019 17:55
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Not in one piece. And it's got so much sediment in it that the light is noticeably dimmer on that side. I'm gonna pull it and rinse it out + let it dry to hopefully get that brightness back. I found one for $35 shipped. e: just pulled it. the cracks barely extend into the lens, so it may or may not pass the safety portion. Depends how closely they look at it. I just pulled the inspection history, and the PO inspected it out of town in an area that only requires safety inspections. It passed at the time (February), so maybe if I just slap some black tape on the top and cut it to so it looks like it's supposed to be black... (that's how it was before)e2: Darchangel, did you need a mounting kit, or does it use standard DIN mounts? I have the single DIN radio, it looks like my Kenwood might just drop right in. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Oct 13, 2019 |
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Oct 13, 2019 18:03
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STR posted:Not in one piece. And it's got so much sediment in it that the light is noticeably dimmer on that side. I'm gonna pull it and rinse it out + let it dry to hopefully get that brightness back. DIN mounts. Any single or double DIN radio *should* bolt in using the factory bracket. Except those $10 Blaupunkts - they are so short that there’s no room for the bolt holes. BTW, speaking of cabin filters, your Outback has one, and its not super easy to get to. Was definitely an afterthought in design. Also mine has a crack at the top of one of the taillights, probably just like yours. It was pointed out to me when I bought it. Might be a common issue. It passed inspection with no problems, though.
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Oct 13, 2019 21:31
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It looks like it got smacked by something right on the corner and spiderwebbed across the top. It's bad enough that in a quick rainstorm, it fills up with enough water to submerge the brake light bulb. I'm going to try to inspect it tomorrow anyway now that it's cleaned out a bit (I tried today, but couldn't find anybody to do it). The red reflector across the tailgate has a similar crack.  Good to know about the mounts, my Kenwood should drop right in once the adapter harness shows up. I found an LL Bean one in the junkyard today; it still had the electronic climate control. I kinda wonder if that can swap in? It seems like the controls on the existing one are electric. Someone had already removed the cluster, but left it in the car, so I nabbed some bulbs to replace the dead ones in mine. It also had the auto dimming mirror, but it was separating. Wish I'd taken more tools; I would have pulled one of the fogs to replace my cracked one. And possibly the rear bumper cover. But I just took what I needed to pull a tail light.  Had a little incident at the gas station. Luckily I was standing by the car, but i heard splashing, looked over, and gas was gushing out of the filler. loving pump didn't click off, and when I pulled the filler out, gas was right up to the brim of the filler neck. Pretty sure that's an issue with the fuel dispenser, right? This is only the 3rd time I've put gas in it, the first 2 times it clicked off fine (different stations). I'd say it was probably half a gallon past full, between what the neck can hold and what spilled out. Attendant was less than thrilled, but he thanked me for catching it before it turned into a Hazmat incident (he still had to shut down the pumps for a few minutes so he could clean up). 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Oct 14, 2019 |
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Oct 14, 2019 01:25
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New radiator, ac compressor, ac condenser, and rerouted the alternator wiring to the drivers side.
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Oct 14, 2019 01:31
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Think this might be related to your evap purge valve? Last week when I had to fill up, somehow there looked like a 1/2 quart of new ATF in front of the pump that I had to straddle to fill up. Previous idiot decided to take a handful of paper towels from the dispenser and tossed it into the mess.
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Oct 14, 2019 01:52
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C-Bangin' it 
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Seriously doubt it. 99% sure it was the gas station's nozzle just not clicking off when it should have. I've put gas in it 2 other times at other stations and they shut off fine on their own. The attendant did say this was the 2nd pump to do the same thing today (it was a Murphy station, where maintenance is "does it still pump gas? then it doesn't need maintenance"). Usually evap issues will cause difficulty filling, instead of letting the pump overfill the tank. It also didn't flood this time, so that one time may have been a fluke. e: Darchangel, yeah, I know it has the cabin filter. No clue where it is, but I got ahold of the FSM, gonna go over that quite a bit (if you don't have it yet, lemme know). Judging by the smell it probably hasn't seen a change in... awhile. Was gonna order good wipers (I slapped some $5 Walmart blades on for now, the ones it came with were coming apart), all filters, and new headlight bulbs from Rockauto soon. Also need to go ahead and change all the fluids. Coolant looks fine after topping it off, oil is pretty dirty (and reeeeeks of gas). No idea about the ATF condition since I still haven't found the dipstick, but it's kinda funny about going into drive after it's been sitting overnight (lurches into gear... after that, it's fine until it sits for at least a few hours again). I almost feel like the kickdown may need to be touched too (if it has one), it won't downshift into 1st without me moving the shifter into 1st once I'm above about 10 mph. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Oct 14, 2019 |
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Oct 14, 2019 01:57
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My 1999 Ranger 3.0 Flexfuel stick that I bought from my buddies wife for $300 in June (it was out of friendship, had people offering way more but it did sit in a driveway for 6 months and didn't really get driven for a year prior because they had a kid, and what the hell do you do with a 2 seat Ranger with a kid), ran fine all summer, and then a few days ago started having engine power loss issues. Only work I've done on it or even had to do to it outside fluids other than what I'm talking about is replacing a burnt plug, and the wires on principle since they were original; and resurfacing the battery posts and terminals, thing is a champion. 1999 with 133k miles. It was intermittently giving me a P0153, so the first thing I did was replace that O2 sensor. The problem immediately got worse when I started driving it around, and would not let up - we're talking all gears, WOT creeping up the road and violently trying to stall before revving up and working for a minute. I went and bought a fuel filter and a TPS, and changed out the fuel filter today. Removed the relay for the pump, turned it over, let it die, changed the filter, reconnected the relay, turned it over. First time I drove it after changing the fuel filter (I'm gonna assume the original hadn't been changed in 133k) it had the bogging problem a couple times while I was getting home after driving back roads around my neighborhood while I was going uphill, one in a left turn which was real fun with that soccer mom getting pissed at how long my turn took, and then the truck came back to life. I tried to change the TPS because maybe that's it? But the TPS is practically soldered into the butterfly with goddamn phillips screws you can only get to with a 90 degree ratchet so I just kinda gave up after I decided I didn't want to strip them any further, and started driving it around the neighborhood again. No bogging, so I went on a faster road with hills to get gas, nothing. No bogging issue at all in the 15 miles/40 minutes I drove it in traffic that second time. I still don't trust it to drive on fast streets or the freeway until I see repeat results days in a row. Anyone have experience with '99 3.0 FFV Rangers and had this problem? MrQwerty fucked around with this message at 10:01 on Oct 14, 2019 |
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Oct 14, 2019 07:35
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STR posted:Had a little incident at the gas station. Luckily I was standing by the car, but i heard splashing, looked over, and gas was gushing out of the filler. loving pump didn't click off, and when I pulled the filler out, gas was right up to the brim of the filler neck. Pretty sure that's an issue with the fuel dispenser, right? This is only the 3rd time I've put gas in it, the first 2 times it clicked off fine (different stations). I'd say it was probably half a gallon past full, between what the neck can hold and what spilled out. Attendant was less than thrilled, but he thanked me for catching it before it turned into a Hazmat incident (he still had to shut down the pumps for a few minutes so he could clean up). You are the reason we're no longer allowed those latched pumps in the UK anymore...
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Oct 14, 2019 15:14
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Got it inspected (safety + smog). Passed on the 2nd try (they failed it for tint the first try, came back home and scraped it off the front windows). Took the inspection report to the dealer so they could finally do the title transfer. I now have legit 60 day temp tags instead of 144 hour temp tags, and it's officially in my name. They wound up selling their other Outback (99) to someone in a similar fashion - dude also brought a code reader, it popped O2 sensor codes, he talked them down and said he'd fix it himself. Normally that's a very not-legal method to sell cars as a dealer in TX, but it worked out for me, got a decent chunk knocked off the price, and I hope it works out for the guy who got the other Outback. I got really lucky in that the cat still seems to work on mine, and the poor PO had a Subaru dealer drop in a brand new OEM alternator. Someone also did the timing belt on mine at 128k (I just broke 143k), so it'll Had a new key cut by the VIN at a Subaru dealer... I can now use a key in every lock on the car except the driver's door (which didn't work with the worn key either). If I had to guess, someone replaced the lock cylinder and/or door handle on that door and didn't rekey it. Not much of an issue since it has factory keyless entry, but my garage is tight enough that I can't get into the car via the passenger door - so if the battery dies (or the keyless acts up), at least now I can get into the car with a key through the hatch. Next up: oil change, brake rotors, RF axle, and polishing the yellowed to hell headlights. They're not opaque like a lot of them get, but they're just so drat terrible at lighting up the road. I'm sure part of it is probably ancient bulbs. Got the adapter harness wired up to my stereo (the Kenwood I had in the Saturn), I plan to throw that in (and also replace the burned out cluster lights) next weekend.
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Oct 15, 2019 02:47
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Sometimes Subarus won't click the gas pump off unless you are very faint on the 'throttle.' I'm guessing you have some spiders in your evap. It really hurts the evap canister to drip liquid gas into them, I cringe every time I see someone disregard the sticker on the fuel cap door and try to 'top off' the car.
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Oct 15, 2019 03:08
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The rustoleum Civic got sold since my mom gave me her old Equinox and guilted me into keeping it. Getting new tires for said Equinox soon, then replacing shocks/struts since they're original (hopefully not as rustastic this time), and finally new stereo with a backup camera because CarPlay and rear visibility on this thing is hilarious.
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Oct 15, 2019 03:50
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 Caliper seized and threw a pad somehow  luckily the brake fluid leaking prevented the piston from eating right through the rotor. Also put this set of wheels/tires together for $270 mounted.  The little bitty 275/55r20s show how far down the back of the truck needs to come. Hopefully i can lift the truck a little and throw the drop shackles and pull some leaves at the same time.
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Oct 15, 2019 22:06
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STR posted:e: Darchangel, yeah, I know it has the cabin filter. No clue where it is, but I got ahold of the FSM, gonna go over that quite a bit (if you don't have it yet, lemme know). Judging by the smell it probably hasn't seen a change in... awhile. Was gonna order good wipers (I slapped some $5 Walmart blades on for now, the ones it came with were coming apart), all filters, and new headlight bulbs from Rockauto soon. Also need to go ahead and change all the fluids. Coolant looks fine after topping it off, oil is pretty dirty (and reeeeeks of gas). No idea about the ATF condition since I still haven't found the dipstick, but it's kinda funny about going into drive after it's been sitting overnight (lurches into gear... after that, it's fine until it sits for at least a few hours again). I almost feel like the kickdown may need to be touched too (if it has one), it won't downshift into 1st without me moving the shifter into 1st once I'm above about 10 mph. Behind the glovebox, which you have to completely remove, for which you have to take the side panel off of the console to get to *one loving screw*. Also, the filter is in two interlocking pieces, because you can't put it in in one piece. Definitely an afterthought. Powershift posted:
"Somehow" quote:luckily the brake fluid leaking prevented the piston from eating right through the rotor. Those look baller. This weekend was poop for cars. Had other stuff on Saturday (buddy had a spare Billy Joel ticket - yes, I will go see that!) and Sunday was honey-dos for my 72 year old mother-in-law. Nothing difficult, it just took a good chunk of the day. But I had Monday off! So I started re-organizing the garage. Eh, I want to be able to get a car in there at least to work on it, at some point, and in the near term, I'm going to need room to store the contents of the living room while we re-drywall, paint, and put flooring down. I did take a look at the Crown Vic's heater hose issue, and:    Whelp. I looked at the Dowman intake, but it looks nothing like the OEM piece, in terms of intake runners, and I don't trust Dorman to have designed it to be better in any way. There were others that better replicate the OEM intake, but none of them fix the fact that the heater hose nipple is plastic, and all of them chepa out and use self tapping screws into plastic in at least one, if not several, locations that the OEM piece uses brass inserts and machine screws. The Dorman is about $180. Some of the cheaper ones are closer to $150, or less if you want an absolute no-name, but of course, not only do I want my car to run *now*, I want it to run for years. So the Factory manifold ate $254 it is. I found it cheaper ($217) at Tasca PArts, but those butt-pirates want $60 for shipping, so eBay and free shipping it is. A set of Fel-Pro gaskets for $35, because the OEM piece doesn't have them built in like the aftermarket slap-it-on parts do, and while I'm at it, a set of fuel injector o-rings. Bleah. Right at $300. For a goddamned hose nipple. gently caress you, Ford, you penny pinching bastards. For now, I just put the hose back on the stub, so I could move the thing around if I need to. You can pull the hose off by hand, though. I'd try a worm-gear hose clamp, but that would probably just crush what remains of the nipple.
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Oct 15, 2019 23:48
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Someone clipped my mirror the 2 hours my 4runner was street parked outside my house while I loaded up my bike into my buddies truck in my driveway and went dirt biking. OEM toyota mirror was $230 or something stupid and it was shockingly difficult to drive without a mirror for 2 days so I ordered one on Amazon for $40, which seemed to be the same lovely ones on RockAuto. They are all cheap mirrors and it vibrates when the engine runs. I'll likely try to source a mirror at a pick and pull in the near future. Then last night while taking a piss I heard a loud collision and noticed someone had hit a parked car across the street. These aren't narrow streets so I'm not sure how people are doing this poo poo. My guess is texting or something else that they're not paying attention. This womans car was hosed, as was the parked car. Neither are in driveable condition. Before the driver got out to inspect anything, she tried driving away but all you could hear was engine revving and grinding. The car wasn't moving. She got out and walked around the car finally noticing all the damage to her and the parked car and started freaking out. All the passengers got out of the vehicle, put their hoods up and walked away. The driver stayed and a friend in another vehicle showed up quickly instructing her to call a tow truck. I didn't trust that they would do the right thing so I called the cops and went to bed since it was 3am.
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Oct 16, 2019 00:52
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Darchangel posted:gently caress you, Ford, you penny pinching bastards. I seem to remember another poster having this same issue and having both manifolds side by side. I can't for the life of me find it.
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Oct 16, 2019 05:25
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I seem to remember the Dorman part being an improvement somehow? Maybe that was for a different mod motor. If it's just the nipple, can you jam like a piece of copper pipe inside what is left of the nipple, glue it in, and then hose clamp over the whole mess? Like using the pipe to hold the structure. But I guess if that one nipple is brittle, the rest of it probably isn't far behind.
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Oct 16, 2019 07:46
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Sometimes Subarus won't click the gas pump off unless you are very faint on the 'throttle.' I'm guessing you have some spiders in your evap. Yeah, I cringe at the same thing as well, knowing full well its real bad for the evap system as a whole. I dunno about the evap system's health, the test hasn't completed... But it's not throwing any codes (yet) after over 400 miles after replacing the O2. That was the 3rd time I've put gas in it since I've owned it, probably going to (gently) fill it after work so I can finally get an idea of what kind of mileage I'm getting with a working O2. With the dead one, it was 15.2. At the moment, I'm sitting a hair under 3/4 of a tank at 120 miles, but I have no idea how overfilled it was. Darchangel, I'm not sure if mine has it or not, it was apparently an option on the base model. Only the Limited and LL Bean had it standard. I'll check when I pull the dash apart to replace the stereo and a couple of bulbs in the cluster. And while I'm at it, may as well figure out what's up with the passenger seat heater switch. It turns out the heater does work, but the switch doesn't light up.
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Oct 16, 2019 08:51
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Powershift posted:I seem to remember another poster having this same issue and having both manifolds side by side. I can't for the life of me find it. i think that was me, I'll see if i posted it in this thread e: ok this was someone else's pic from before i did my job but it's a better pic than i took lol Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Oct 16, 2019 |
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Oct 16, 2019 13:57
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Raluek posted:I seem to remember the Dorman part being an improvement somehow? Maybe that was for a different mod motor. Yeah, Dorman isn't awful at intakes. They have an intake marketed as a "LS2" replacement that "just happens" to be set up to take LS1 fuel rails as well, and is an upgrade over both in terms of flow. And it's cheaper than the used LS6 intakes on the market.
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Oct 16, 2019 16:09
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Raluek posted:I seem to remember the Dorman part being an improvement somehow? Maybe that was for a different mod motor. The Dorman manifold is an upgrade for non-Performance Improved engines, because of the aluminum thermo housing and coolant crossover. Reviews are generally positive, in the “it works, basically” sense, but several of the negatives detailed exactly the issues, and I had no desire to deal with those. Like I mentioned, the runner design is *nothing* like the factory setup, just to start. All of the aftermarket manifolds use built in o-rings, which isn’t a deal killer, but they also all need spacers on the thermostat housing bolts to deal with a difference in height from the OEM piece. Then there’s the varying use of self-tapping screws into plastic rather than threaded inserts. No thanks. I intend to keep this car for several more years at least. I will look at the original manifold when I get it out to see if there’s anything I can do about that nipple. I’m afraid of exactly what you state, that it’s *all* brittle. I’d love to put in a Precision Products aluminum manifold, but they’re $500, which is stupid.
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Oct 16, 2019 16:41
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Fender Anarchist posted:i think that was me, I'll see if i posted it in this thread Curious, what are those two extra ports for above/below the I guess I would say throttle body that don't exist on the original?
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Oct 16, 2019 16:50
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Winter is lookin pretty bright.   The paint comes out crazy fast so there are a few runs, and of course dust, but i think i want to paint my truck this color with this paint come spring. Colostomy Bag posted:Curious, what are those two extra ports for above/below the I guess I would say throttle body that don't exist on the original? Just a void in the mold. They're not open to the plenum.
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Oct 16, 2019 18:12
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Winter wheels should always be a crazy color. I've had green and safety orange personally. That color rules
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Oct 16, 2019 19:01
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Powershift posted:
Thank you.
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Oct 16, 2019 19:03
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Suburban Dad posted:Winter wheels should always be a crazy color. I've had green and safety orange personally. That color rules Yeah, i had grey and i was gonna go with that, but i also drive a white truck and don't want someone to claim they didn't see me. "oh, i didn't see you", "dude, my wheels nearly glow in the dark"
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Oct 16, 2019 19:04
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Powershift posted:Winter is lookin pretty bright. I support you in this color choice. It’s silly, and the world needs more silly. quote:Just a void in the mold. They're not open to the plenum. It is open to the intake valley, so perfect for collecting unused 10mm sockets. Neither of those is the Dorman, BTW. This is the Dorman 615-175, for 2004+ 4.6L  Note the radically different intake runners from previously posted OEM, and literally no threaded inserts except for the throttle body. It also looks identical to the 615-178, which is the pre-‘04 non-PI 4.6L version. What they probably did was use the exact same intake design, except change the flanges to match the PI heads. Which means the Dorman probably will lose you some horsepower.
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Oct 16, 2019 19:08
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