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Kasumeat posted:I'm starting to get a bunion on one foot. The two major issues for me is that my toes are long and I can't find a climbing shoe with a toe box large enough for them, and that the foot in question is about 2/3 of a size larger than the other, so it's literally impossible to find a pair of shoes that fits both feet. I have long feet with high arches and toes that curl a little, and wear size 13 street shoe. I have a pair of Scarpa Force V that don't crush down the top of my toes or chafe at all, they're really a perfect fit, also size 13. They're not the most aggressive shoe but I can leave them on for hours at the gym and don't come away with raw spots. I have a more aggressive pair of Evolvs and I need to tape the tops of a bunch of toes before I put them on; they're just not roomy enough top-to-bottom even though they fit really well front-to-back. I've seen different size "pairs" on Ebay and some other gear sites, but you'd likely have to buy used and your options would be pretty slim, as it seems like most people buy two pairs and sell off the other mismatched set.
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Oct 10, 2019 15:47
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If you contact the manufacturer they might be willing to sell you a pair of shoes in different sizes. It's pretty common for people to have different sized feet so I'm sure they are used to that kind of request
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Oct 10, 2019 17:08
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Kasumeat posted:I'm starting to get a bunion on one foot. The two major issues for me is that my toes are long and I can't find a climbing shoe with a toe box large enough for them, and that the foot in question is about 2/3 of a size larger than the other, so it's literally impossible to find a pair of shoes that fits both feet. Try to stay on top of it! When a bunion starts forming it'll lead to ever increasing pressure on that part of the toe and it'll be an evil circle. I'd recommend cutting off all excessive skin to lessen the pressure. I would suggest looking at trad shoes. They typically have flat toe boxes to help jamming your feet in cracks. Avoid aggressive shoes (downturned toe box) or other shoes where your toes curl up as long toes will probably never fit well there. Perhaps look for a shoe with a rigid sole to take some pressure off your toes. TC Pro, Mythos or the BD Aspect might be worth looking at. They are technical and versatile. Do you have Morton's toe (second toe the longest)? If you do keep that in mind. The obvious answer to fit different sized feet is to buy two pairs. Pricy but if you keep resoling them, it'll not be too bad. Leather is good as it'll generally conform better to your feet compared to synthetic.
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Oct 10, 2019 19:29
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Thanks for the advice, friends. I'll look into those shoes.
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Oct 11, 2019 00:04
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I'm not well versed in any sort of climbing that isn't bouldering, what the gently caress did I just see from 0:18 - 0:25 in this beginning of this video?? She just slams into him?? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCWnhqBD0ns
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Oct 12, 2019 14:50
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It looks like she was giving him a lot of slack so he'd have an easier time getting the rope in the next clip, he falls kinda far with all the slack and momentum pulled her up.
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Oct 12, 2019 15:04
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if the climber is heavier than the belayer, the belayer can get pulled up if the climber takes a lead fall. if the climber falls while they're still pretty close to the ground, they can slam into the belayer. obviously not ideal and there are ways you could mitigate it if you think it's really likely to happen, but it's not a catastrophic mistake or all that uncommon that Age of Ondra series is incredible. he is on such a different level
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Oct 12, 2019 15:25
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That's kinda what I assumed but wasn't sure. And yea, really interesting video.
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Oct 12, 2019 15:44
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Heres a few picture from Song mountain in Dengfeng, China. I went hiking there earlier in the year but didn't get to climb until now.     We're getting a trip to Yangshuo in Guilin planned for early next year, trying to get better before then. Right now though my grip just dies after a day climbing and on the 2nd day I lose my grip too often. Not sure if I'm screwing up somehow or if I just dont have enough grip strength yet :/
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Oct 14, 2019 13:25
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Looks sweet! I feel like bouldering photos aren't nearly as impressive, and I didn't get any photos of climbing as I went solo today but Niagara Glen is a really cool area;  It's right on the Niagara River, of Niagara Falls fame  You're about 4 miles directly north of the falls, but the river is still massively powerful and all you hear while hiking/climbing is the roar of the river You have to descend a few hundred feet into the gorge to get to the bouldering, and it's super pretty this time of year:  Here's a brief video of me struggling to top out on an otherwise easy climb. Not sure what difficulty it was, as I forgot my climbing guidebook at home today. Hardest part was just trying to find something that wasn't obscenely polished for my feet at the start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uelUtDSFgLY Might need to turn your sound way up to hear the river, but it's quite prominent in person. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Oct 14, 2019 |
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Oct 14, 2019 21:57
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I also went outside this weekend, to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch. It was my first time there and it's an interesting place. Feels like climbing at a gym with rocks or something, most of the climbs have perma-draws on them and are so chalked up you don't really need to figure anything out. Kind of got sucked into doing a bunch of one move wonder 5.12s with my friend instead of my plan to work on building up more 5.11s outside, but oh well. Warming up on Green goblin 5.8:  Crux of Lavender Eye, 5.12a:  Crux of Trapeze Artist, 5.12b:  Cruising Orange Crush, 5.9:  View from the top of Orange Crush: 
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Oct 15, 2019 02:02
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I saw your photo of the crux of Lavender Eye and initially mistook it as you kneeling on a feature about a foot off the ground. I also got some outdoor climbing in this weekend. I ended up going to Devil's Lake in Wisconsin and did some top roping. It was a good time if a little in the chilly side. I'm looking forward to heading to Kentucky on a couple weekends and getting some sport climbing in.
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Oct 15, 2019 04:10
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M. Night Skymall posted:Canyons is too far really now that Summit has so many locations, I haven't been there in..close to 10 years I think. Also there're 2 gyms opening in the design district in the next 6ish months which'll be right next to where I work. I'm making an effort to go outside more with a goal of once a month though, so we we can try to coordinate that if you want. I'm going to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch this weekend with 6 or 7 other people, but probably a bit short notice. Weather's looking really nice aside from some rain on Friday. I want to make it out to Hueco Tanks sometime this winter too, but who knows, long rear end drive and kind of painful to set everything up with the tours etc. Some of the people I climb with go every winter though so hopefully I can just follow along and they'll organize it all. Yea, I plan on doing the mountaineers class probably in the spring (wanted to this spring, but, life happened). Deff have a 4 year goal (was 5) of climbing El Cap. Next year I plan on purchasing rope, cams and draws though, and want to look at heading outdoors. Would love to join up some outdoor stuff sometime with a bit more notice. Way more likely after Thanksgiving due to being able to have the mother in law in town to help watch over the fam if I was to go. Summit Plano is also only ~20 mins away, so if given enough notice I'd probably be able to make something work with the wife.
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Oct 15, 2019 19:15
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Do you guys have any advice for how to approach problems where you've just got like a complete roof over you? I can't find a video of the problem in question, but it's the same boulder as seen in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7spaQvePNLA You start on the same hold, first one or two moves with the hands is the same, but then you'd veer to the left instead of to the right. I think it looks something like this:  But yea holy poo poo I cannot keep my feet on. I don't know if it's a lack of core strength, if I'm just not pushing into the wall with my feet hard enough or what but drat it's hard.
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Oct 16, 2019 01:43
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Lots of core. Get feet on and really engage the core. If you sag your butt you will likely not stay on.
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Oct 16, 2019 01:47
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Sab669 posted:Do you guys have any advice for how to approach problems where you've just got like a complete roof over you? It's all core, as was said. Lots and lots of core. I usually tell people working on roof problems to actively press their feet on whatever is there in the roof. Like, you want to be pushing as hard as you can with your feet pretty much. If you just sort of place your foot on a hold in a roof, it's not going to stay there. Pressing hard with your foot will engage your core as a side effect.
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Oct 16, 2019 10:19
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I think there's a bit too much emphasis placed on core for roof problems, especially for beginners. Yes it's absolutely a necessary component, but how much core strength you can actually apply is capped by how much finger strength you have. It doesn't matter how much core strength you have when you don't have the finger strength to oppose the pressure applied by your feet. The type of posterior chain extension that one does on a roof is basically the equivalent of a rack pull, and quite simply, the average person is much stronger in their rack pull than they are in their grip, or literally any other type of application of force by the human body for that matter. Again, core strength is still very, very helpful, but for a beginner, it's going to be finger strength lacking 99% of the time.
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Oct 16, 2019 18:05
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Kasumeat posted:I think there's a bit too much emphasis placed on core for roof problems, especially for beginners. Yes it's absolutely a necessary component, but how much core strength you can actually apply is capped by how much finger strength you have. It doesn't matter how much core strength you have when you don't have the finger strength to oppose the pressure applied by your feet. The type of posterior chain extension that one does on a roof is basically the equivalent of a rack pull, and quite simply, the average person is much stronger in their rack pull than they are in their grip, or literally any other type of application of force by the human body for that matter. Opposition is only applicable in problems that... involve opposition. There are tons of roof problems where the hands and feet are essentially jugs facing the same direction and there is no opposition involved.
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Oct 16, 2019 18:14
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armorer posted:Opposition is only applicable in problems that... involve opposition. There are tons of roof problems where the hands and feet are essentially jugs facing the same direction and there is no opposition involved. That's very true. Not sure why I was fixated on that.
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Oct 16, 2019 18:34
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Generally speaking, feet outdoors are worse than in the gym and require more focus & effort to use well. Make sure you're actually looking at your foot placements. A lot of ppl look away and focus on their hands again as soon as their foot touches the next hold. Make sure your foot is in the exact position you want it to be and focus on applying force & tension before you look away. A helpful cue for engaging your feet is going for the feeling of trying to break the foothold off the wall. Like really pressing your toe down hard. This isn't applicable 100% of the time, but it's a good thing to keep in the back of your head to ensure you're not just plopping your feet.
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Oct 16, 2019 22:10
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I tweaked my A2 pulleys in my middle and ring fingers on both hands back in July, and in the past couple weeks I think I've finally gotten them healed up. I initially noticed soreness in them after I went on a 3 day climbing trip in early July. I climbed as hard as I could all 3 days, and had only been climbing since March, so I didn't have a strong base going into the trip. I didn't realize that the soreness I was feeling was an indication of an injury, so I kept climbing the same way I had been before the injury. About mid way through July I realized I was really putting a hurting on my fingers. I stopped bouldering entirely. I found that even easy boulder problems were requiring me to pull harder than my fingers could take. And on sport climbing I avoided steep routes as much as possible. I also did as much outdoor climbing as I could. For some reason I could go pretty hard outdoors without bothering my fingers in the way that hard climbing indoors would. My overall rehab plan was consistent climbing, with the goal of not irritating my pulleys further, and gentle massage of the afflicted areas, both to promote blood flow and also to help determine if I had been irritating them with my climbing. Increased tenderness in my fingers was a sign that I had been doing something wrong in my climbing. I did my first bouldering session since mid July yesterday, my fingers weren't sore immediately following the session, and they weren't sore this morning. I think I've finally done it! I know that 3 and half months isn't that long to deal with an injury, but it was pretty hard to stay out of a gloomy mindset when my fingers felt like they were never going to get better. Well, that's my finger story, hope it can help some other newbie with bad pulleys not get too down and get back to climbing hard.
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Oct 17, 2019 14:17
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I went to Red River Gorge and got hooked on crack https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106789874/shock-and-awe I did this on our first day as my first trad lead. I found it easy to protect and there were enough face holds I didn't have to really on my weak crack climbing skills. I had a blast on it.  https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105889552/american-crack The last climb I did on the trip, I wasn't a fan of the top out. The ledge you needed to get on to clip the chains was full of sand and small rocks. Trying to get up there without raining choss down on the belayer was tricky. My Buddy and I were there late Sunday night through Thursday afternoon and had a blast. The weather was fantastic except for a little rain early on Wednesday, we found dry rock but the approach was very slick.
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Oct 19, 2019 14:10
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Nice man. I always bring a rack to the red even though everyone else I go with sport climbs only. I also enjoyed shock and awe but I am not positive I actually used a crack move on it. It was also completely dripping wet in the bottom 1/3 though. Slinging plates at the top was money.
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Oct 19, 2019 16:24
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got up at 3am, flew across country and drove straight to CCC where we got our asses kicked by things that frankly weren’t that hard sorta felt good anyway though
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Oct 20, 2019 01:56
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Hauki posted:got up at 3am, flew across country and drove straight to CCC where we got our asses kicked by things that frankly weren’t that hard Don't lie felt bad
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Oct 20, 2019 02:15
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I replaced the floor in my bathroom. So Good work guys.
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Oct 20, 2019 03:48
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ShaneB posted:Don't lie felt bad
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Oct 20, 2019 06:45
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spwrozek posted:I replaced the floor in my bathroom. So Good work guys. Jealous. I need to do mine. Also, the rest of my floor.
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Oct 20, 2019 14:29
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Anyone have any experience with/opinion on the Edelrid Ohm?
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Oct 20, 2019 18:57
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Sab669 posted:But yea holy poo poo I cannot keep my feet on. I don't know if it's a lack of core strength, if I'm just not pushing into the wall with my feet hard enough or what but drat it's hard. Find a steep overhang at the bouldering wall and get your hands on a couple of big jugs so you're hanging free. Stretch out one foot to a hold that's at the limit of what you can reach. Without hooking your toe around the hold, just using friction, try to pull your body in parallel to the wall. At first your foot will just slide off. Try to send some body weight down through the foot. You'll find the more weight you send through the toe, the more rigid and plank like your whole body below the shoulder has to become. The more weight you can send though, the better the foot sticks. Core strength seems to be about the ability to exert force at maximum distance from your core, paradoxically.
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Oct 20, 2019 19:22
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Borachon posted:Anyone have any experience with/opinion on the Edelrid Ohm? I think it works really well and it's a huge safety device for partners with a big weight difference. A friend of mine is about 225 and I can belay him really safely at 145.
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Oct 20, 2019 20:55
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spwrozek posted:I think it works really well and it's a huge safety device for partners with a big weight difference. A friend of mine is about 225 and I can belay him really safely at 145. That's what I was hoping to hear. I'm around 210 and the main partner who belays me on lead is around 130, so even something as "simple" as lowering from the top of a route on a grigri can be frustrating, and it also makes me more scared of taking a fall than I really should be. I may have to invest in one.
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Oct 21, 2019 00:14
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Borachon posted:That's what I was hoping to hear. I'm around 210 and the main partner who belays me on lead is around 130, so even something as "simple" as lowering from the top of a route on a grigri can be frustrating, and it also makes me more scared of taking a fall than I really should be. I may have to invest in one. we only use it on sport routes (maybe that is obvious?) and some gyms do not let us use it which is annoying as hell. So you may want to check that if you want to use it inside.
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Oct 21, 2019 01:24
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spwrozek posted:we only use it on sport routes (maybe that is obvious?) and some gyms do not let us use it which is annoying as hell. So you may want to check that if you want to use it inside. It's explicitly not supposed to be used for trad, as I understand it, but I'll be sure to check my gym, yes. Thanks for the tip.
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Oct 21, 2019 03:18
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Borachon posted:It's explicitly not supposed to be used for trad, as I understand it, but I'll be sure to check my gym, yes. Thanks for the tip. The thing about using it for trad is that you'd have to make sure the gear placement could handle an upwards or downwards pull, which is not really a constraint you want to add to your first piece. Probably best to relegate it to sport for that reason. I have a friend who uses one and has good things to say about it, fwiw.
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Oct 21, 2019 05:36
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Borachon posted:It's explicitly not supposed to be used for trad, as I understand it, but I'll be sure to check my gym, yes. Thanks for the tip. Just because you are not "supposed" too.... I wouldn't do it.
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Oct 21, 2019 05:55
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Borachon posted:Anyone have any experience with/opinion on the Edelrid Ohm? I have one and use it with lighter partners. It helps with falls and lowering but it can be annoying when you are clipping. Sometimes it locks when you are pulling through and then the belayer needs to wiggle the rope to free it up. I refer to it as my fat kid tool of shame.
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Oct 21, 2019 18:33
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Sound_man posted:I went to Red River Gorge and got hooked on crack Those look amazing. I'm out there all the time looking wistfully at the cracks, because I don't know how to trad climb.
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Oct 22, 2019 15:02
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So I started climbing in the local gym two weeks ago and really like it, however after about forty-five to one hour of climbing my right elbow starts to get tight and maybe has a dull pain? It usually goes away after an hour of not climbing, anyone knows what it is and how to prevent it? I've incorporated a stretch beforehand where I turn my hand upside down and flex the fingers backward as I heard it could help, but any other help would be appreciated. The only other time I had this problem was when I used to do military presses and fixed it by positioning my hands a bit differently on the bar. This also happens if I have my arm stretched out under my partners pillows while I sleep so I think its a tendon thing.
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Oct 22, 2019 16:47
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How many times are you climbing per week, and how active were you prior to climbing? I started climbing about 6 months ago, fairly sedentary prior to, going 2-4 times per week and I was experiencing soreness in my forearms and near my elbows for the first few weeks. I attributed it to those muscles not being used to being worked at all, and the frequency at which I was going (I think the first week I went 5 times lol). It went away quickly and hasn't particularly been a problem since the beginning, except for weeks where I really push myself with multiple days of hard climbing. But since you experience pain while simply stretching the arm out, to me that sounds like a sign of an actual injury (or close to) rather than simple soreness/thorough usage? I'll defer one of the many more experienced posters here 
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Oct 22, 2019 17:08
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