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Optimus Prime it up.
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Oct 15, 2019 02:35
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Arquinsiel posted:Optimus Prime it up. Yeah I’m pretty sure it’s a law that all Kenworth cabovers need to be painted red and blue.
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Oct 15, 2019 07:39
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Bridge is almost done.  
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Oct 15, 2019 15:49
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Baronjutter posted:Bridge is almost done. Very nice work. Enos Shenk posted:I LOVE SHITKITS. Speaking of, I found this. https://boxartden.com/collections/gallery/index.php/Vintage-Model-Kit-Catalogs-1950-1999/Revell/Revell-1980/Revell-1980-04-960 It's a site devoted to model kit box art. The above link goes to revell's 1980 offering, and I think 1980 might have been the ugliest time in the past few centuries given what their fantasy model kits looked like
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Oct 15, 2019 18:10
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I can't say train sets have ever been my thing but I'm always amazed at the sheer diligence and detail that goes into building a layout. Also, has anyone built a Hasegawa Ma.K. Falke and have any tips? I've got a kit on order and just want to know what I'm in for as I've mostly only built tabletop miniature stuff.
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Oct 15, 2019 21:07
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Baronjutter posted:Bridge is almost done. I assume "almost" refers to the lack of graffiti under the bridge? 
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Oct 15, 2019 22:30
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Pierzak posted:I assume "almost" refers to the lack of graffiti under the bridge? Yeah my last layout had that for sure. I want to get some custom stuff done up this time. 
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Oct 15, 2019 22:38
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ijyt posted:I can't say train sets have ever been my thing but I'm always amazed at the sheer diligence and detail that goes into building a layout. I haven't build any of the MaK kits, but I have put together few of Hasegawa's other robots and planes from a couple different ranges. They're entirely within the realm of just okay. Their kits are reasonably priced, but every so often they have a weird fitment or engineering issue. It's never anything deal-breaking, but it's vaguely annoying coming from higher-quality manufacturers. You're probably going to want to some putty to fill gaps and cover up alignment issues. I have a tube of Perfect Plastic Putty that's kept for years, but any white putty should do you. It's preferable to green stuff for gap filling on a bigger model like this, since it's sandable. I do about a 600 to 800 grit for the rough sanding, then go down to around 1000 grit for finishing. I dunno if you're used to plastic or lead minis, but you'll have an easier time if you grab a plastic cement than using superglue or the Testor's model glue gel. Be prepared to trim some light flashing, scrub a whole bunch of mold lines, and fiddle with your part alignment. Of course, the most important part will be sharing the deets on the kit once it arrives.
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Oct 16, 2019 15:08
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I haven't built a scale model since I was a kid. In the past few weeks I put together a couple snap together models and that was fun, but I didn't paint them (Bandai Star Wars Super Star Destroyer and AT-ST). Now I have a Hasegawa Mitsubishi Zero kit sitting on my desk and this one I do want to paint, but I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. The paint schedule in the instructions for this thing calls out 22 different paints. I currently have zero paints. How do you decide on colors and wind up with the right shade of green or red? I've been looking at Vallejo Model Colors and they have about 45,682 different colors. I don't need the colors to be 100% historically accurate, but I don't want to wind up with something ridiculous.
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Oct 16, 2019 15:31
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Eccles posted:I haven't built a scale model since I was a kid. In the past few weeks I put together a couple snap together models and that was fun, but I didn't paint them (Bandai Star Wars Super Star Destroyer and AT-ST). Now I have a Hasegawa Mitsubishi Zero kit sitting on my desk and this one I do want to paint, but I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. The paint schedule in the instructions for this thing calls out 22 different paints. I currently have zero paints. How do you decide on colors and wind up with the right shade of green or red? I've been looking at Vallejo Model Colors and they have about 45,682 different colors. I don't need the colors to be 100% historically accurate, but I don't want to wind up with something ridiculous. There's probably a color chart somewhere in the instructions, you can use that and a conversion chart from somewhere if they use mr color or tamiya or something instead of vallejo.
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Oct 16, 2019 15:48
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I'm setting up to do an F-86 and want to do it in polished aluminum. I was about to order some of the Alclad stuff, but noticed that Vallejo now has acrylic polished metal stuff. Anyone ever worked with it before?
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Oct 16, 2019 17:18
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Eccles posted:I haven't built a scale model since I was a kid. In the past few weeks I put together a couple snap together models and that was fun, but I didn't paint them (Bandai Star Wars Super Star Destroyer and AT-ST). Now I have a Hasegawa Mitsubishi Zero kit sitting on my desk and this one I do want to paint, but I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed. The paint schedule in the instructions for this thing calls out 22 different paints. I currently have zero paints. How do you decide on colors and wind up with the right shade of green or red? I've been looking at Vallejo Model Colors and they have about 45,682 different colors. I don't need the colors to be 100% historically accurate, but I don't want to wind up with something ridiculous. A lot of those are detail colors - gun barrels, instrument panel widgets, interior paints, and other stuff. Your most cost-effective option is to figure out what general colors you want and just buy those - for a stereotypical Zero, I'd pick a red, a white, and a grey-black, then whatever detail colors you want to do on top of that, like maybe a silver for scuffed areas of the paint. Going general to specific is a good way to not drop a huge amount of cash on paints you might use once or twice. If you're feeling both adventurous and spendy, you could buy one of the smaller paint sets. Since you're looking at Vallejo, they make eight-bottle sets for special purposes, and more general sixteen-bottle assortments for a wider selection of colors. You could try and find a set that meets most of your needs, then mix up your paints. This is a great skill to have. Downside is that when you're new at it, you're going to waste some paint figuring out what you're doing, and it's going to be a lot harder to get your mixes consistent. Buying specific pre-mixed paints makes consistency easier if you're going to work on a particular project over a long period of time, but obviously costs more. bewbies posted:I'm setting up to do an F-86 and want to do it in polished aluminum. I was about to order some of the Alclad stuff, but noticed that Vallejo now has acrylic polished metal stuff. Anyone ever worked with it before? I've used the Metal Color stuff before. It's a nice, pigment-dense silver, but it's still just a metallic acrylic. If you want that actual polished metal finish, you're gonna need a lacquer, unfortunately. If you have any specific questions, I can try and field them for you. This guy did a good comparison of the VMCs and Alclad lacquers.
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Oct 16, 2019 18:29
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alclad is incredibly finicky but the hi-shine aluminum paints make it worth the trouble imo
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Oct 16, 2019 18:37
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You can get away with a few things on the Zero, like not picking up the clear metallic blue Aotake for the wheel wells. Some of the tiny knobs in the cockpit should be painted red too. The formation lights are also blue and red. Most important colors are probably black for the cowl, silver for the prop and wheel hubs, an approximation of IJN J3 SP for the fuselage, and a Japanese interior green for the cockpit. Theres a mix of Vallejo hemp that I like for J3, but I'd have to look up what the ratio is edit: http://www.aviationofjapan.com/2016/02/oleg-pegushins-172nd-scale-tainan-ku.html if you scroll down to the comments you can see where the guy described his painting process. Lightening Vallejo hemp with a lightish grey is probably the easiest thing to do though. And then you can use that grey for the control surfaces too. Symetrique fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Oct 16, 2019 |
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Oct 16, 2019 18:42
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grassy gnoll posted:I haven't build any of the MaK kits, but I have put together few of Hasegawa's other robots and planes from a couple different ranges. They're entirely within the realm of just okay. Their kits are reasonably priced, but every so often they have a weird fitment or engineering issue. It's never anything deal-breaking, but it's vaguely annoying coming from higher-quality manufacturers. Thanks, I’ve built both pewter and plastic I was just curious of any well known build issues. I’ve picked up some Mr. Surfacer 500 and enamel thinner for the gap filling as I heard good stuff about it. I’ll probably build log it to be honest as it’ll be my first proper scale kit!
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Oct 16, 2019 19:52
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ijyt posted:Thanks, I’ve built both pewter and plastic I was just curious of any well known build issues. I’ve picked up some Mr. Surfacer 500 and enamel thinner for the gap filling as I heard good stuff about it. I’ll probably build log it to be honest as it’ll be my first proper scale kit! Surfacer 500 is a lacquer. I dont think enamel will work with it. Isopropyl alcohol can be used to clean or remove Mr Surfacer though.
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Oct 16, 2019 19:56
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Whoops no yeah lacquer thinner is what I have, I’ve been looking at too many paints.
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Oct 16, 2019 20:20
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bewbies posted:I'm setting up to do an F-86 and want to do it in polished aluminum. I was about to order some of the Alclad stuff, but noticed that Vallejo now has acrylic polished metal stuff. Anyone ever worked with it before?   The silver on that is the dark aluminium metal from Vallejo. It's a little hard to photograph properly but it does look pretty good in person. Super easy to work with like most Vallejo paints.
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Oct 16, 2019 20:27
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bewbies posted:I'm setting up to do an F-86 and want to do it in polished aluminum. I was about to order some of the Alclad stuff, but noticed that Vallejo now has acrylic polished metal stuff. Anyone ever worked with it before? You have to wear a paint respirator to work with lacquer paint and it absolutely has to be airbrushed. I made a DH vampire a few years ago using some. Pro tip: paint the kit entirely black first (black primer is handy here, I know Alclad makes it.) The black really helps the 'metal' look.
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Oct 16, 2019 21:54
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And now for something completely different, as in not a tank!     Rest of photos This car is absolutely tiny! It still took me a month to build since it has an engine and partial cabin details. Overall I'm not too impressed: the big assemblies don't go together very well, the marking options are boring (these ones are from my stash) and even though the headlights are molded in clear plastic the rear light is not. As I mentioned before, the crew compartment interior is quite sparse: you only get a gun breech, two very basic seats, three blocky pedals, the steering wheel, and a very simple console. I guess you can't really see much more through a camera anyway.
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Oct 17, 2019 02:39
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Nebakenezzer posted:Very nice work. Lol, I had a copy of that catalog.
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Oct 17, 2019 02:49
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Ensign Expendable posted:And now for something completely different, as in not a tank! It has a turret, pretty sure its a tank. Nice work though! I think Meng and Copper State both have 1/35 armored cars, if you're looking at making another one.
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Oct 17, 2019 03:30
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I'm not incredibly attached to the subject matter, part of the reason why I decided to experiment with a different decal scheme and simplified colour modulation. Seems to have paid off though.
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Oct 17, 2019 03:55
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Thank you very much for all the suggestions. All the colors for the Zero kit were in Mr Color numbers, and I never would have though there might be color conversion charts. This is great.
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Oct 17, 2019 04:09
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Still an AFV.
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Oct 17, 2019 16:19
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Raskolnikov38 posted:alclad is incredibly finicky but the hi-shine aluminum paints make it worth the trouble imo I'll agree with you on that. For airbrushing, it is finicky, but a very nice finish. Also, being lacquer based, there are concerns with the fumes. Brush painting Alclad metallics is not recommended for a reason - it doesn't work that well. For brush painting metallics, I've tried a lot of stuff out there and even gone as far as to make my own using Hawkeye polishing powder mixed with a clear lacquer carrier. The problem with all of them is that it is essentially flakes of metal suspended in clear goop. I do most of my detail work with a microscope and can clearly see the huge flakes floating around and coverage is "ok" at best. Last year, I tried the AK Interactive True Metal wax based pigments (cleans up with enamel thinner) and that stuff is great. The pigment flakes are very small and the wax carrier is very sticky which results in excellent coverage. For small parts, you can paint it on and call it good. For larger parts and panels, you can let it dry and polish it to a higher shine with a soft cloth.
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Oct 17, 2019 19:45
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Hopefully this is OK to post. If not, let me know and I'll kill the post. I have a closet full of plastic scale models ranging from 1/700 ships to 1/48 tanks and planes that need to be gone from my house. I've made a post in SA-Mart with more information and a list of kits with photos. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3901658
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Oct 19, 2019 21:09
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I second the AK interactive wax recommendation, them and Vallejo metal color are the best alternatives if you're looking to avoid toxic shock from lacquer fumes.
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Oct 20, 2019 20:29
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c355n4 posted:Hopefully this is OK to post. If not, let me know and I'll kill the post.  I'm just a little too far from NJ to justify a roadtrip. That is a huge stash!
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Oct 21, 2019 12:14
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Can anyone share any good tip to paint/weather an all-black plane? I want to build a SR-71 but I don't want it to look all black and clean. Should I start dark and use dry brushing to lighten it up, or the opposite?
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Oct 21, 2019 12:49
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The secret to painting black is to never actually use black paint. Pick your favorite dark, dark grey and go over the model in a uniform coat. Highlight up, or wash down to black, panel line in black, etc. I've been using German grey, but basically anything that's a shade or two lighter than actual black will work.
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Oct 21, 2019 14:50
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You can also paint different panels with various tones of dark colours thinned with a glaze medium to break up the monotony. And pastels of course!
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Oct 21, 2019 15:44
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I'm building the Tamyia F-14D and am ALMOST to painting. Thus far I haven't messed up anything significant even, and it might turn out decent. This is my first modern jet in forever, and I've never painted anything with the contemporary USN all-grey scheme before. Any recommendations on a painting tutorial for this scheme? I'm not going to go "full weathered" but I'd like some depth and whatnot to the color, I have a feeling a low-skilled modeler like myself could easily turn this big and very nice model into a grey blob.
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Oct 21, 2019 15:51
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  This boy has such a goofy face 
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Oct 21, 2019 16:00
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So instead of having my projects sit for months I decided to set up my webcam at my modelling desk and stream it. Was pretty successful considering this went from not fully assembled to built, primed & painted in just a few hours.  I'm not too happy with the white camo as my paint was a little too thin so it was kind of spidering and I should've put in my 0.2 needle. I suppose it encapsulates the slapdash russian paintjob quite well though? I'll probably be back at it again on Wednesday if that interests anyone 
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Oct 21, 2019 18:33
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Finally got to do some model stuff since my son was born at the end of August. One day I’ll have a layout to actually put these on.
George Zimmer fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Oct 22, 2019 |
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Oct 21, 2019 18:52
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George Zimmer posted:Finally got to do some model stuff since my son was born at the end of August. One day I’ll have a layout to actually put these on. Fixed. You linked to the gallery instead of the picture.
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Oct 21, 2019 21:20
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bewbies posted:I'm building the Tamyia F-14D and am ALMOST to painting. Thus far I haven't messed up anything significant even, and it might turn out decent. Fortunately the f14 is a common build so there's a lot of decent YouTube videos from good modellers to get inspiration from. https://youtu.be/P2cFTsP2IDM
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Oct 21, 2019 22:56
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Fixed. You linked to the gallery instead of the picture. Thanks! Fixed the original.
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Oct 22, 2019 00:31
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Sultan Tarquin posted:So instead of having my projects sit for months I decided to set up my webcam at my modelling desk and stream it. Was pretty successful considering this went from not fully assembled to built, primed & painted in just a few hours. Looks good for winter camo. I'm planning to have "tire track" winter camo on my current build on top of a three tone colour scheme. It's going to be pretty challenging, I think.
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Oct 22, 2019 01:52
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