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I have an Alienware Area-51m with an Intel i9-9900k, RTX 2080, and 64GB DDR4-2666 RAM. I want to sell it and build a desktop computer again (for playing Destiny 2 at 1440p/4k on a 144Hz G-Sync monitor and audio/video production). One person on Craigslist wants to trade his i9-9900k + RTX 2080 Ti + 32GB DDR4-3600 RAM desktop and throw in an additional $500 for my "laptop". The RTX 2080 Ti is an MSI Seahawk X 2080 Ti. Is that a good one? I was planning to sell this laptop to build a Cascade Lake system with an RTX 2080 Ti anyway, but assuming everything is in working order, I was wondering if this was a good enough trade to be worth it for me.
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Oct 23, 2019 03:37
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Google sent me a $20 coupon, good only on the Google Shopping app so I thought "yeah!" but every component I wanted for my build was $20+ more expensive than anywhere else. I ended up buying an Asus dvd burner for $4.66. Also Google Shopping app sucks.
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Oct 23, 2019 04:56
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huhwhat posted:[Cool Node 202 advice] Thanks, I'll mention those when folks are building in 202s! My Core V1 variant is pretty roomy by comparison, but it's tempting to slim it down, especially with the extra gpu space. a cat posted:I'm a software developer building a computer for the first time in awhile. Besides the GPU advice, I'd also think about whether several of the components will be beneficial to your use case: CPU: The 3600 is a great CPU, but would your work benefit from more cores? A 3700x or 3900x might be worth it if so. If you're not doing cpu-intensive work, you might want to consider saving $80 and getting a 2600 instead. Motherboard: The Aorus Elite has great VRM, but it's an overkill for anything but a 3950x. The Asus TUF Wifi has all the same feature for $20 less, and the Asrock Pro 4 is $50 less and only missing wifi (but has a key-E m.2 slot for a integrated wifi kit). Memory: Do your work tasks need 32GB? It's definitely not required for daily computing or light work. Storage: Unless you're working sequentially with very large, multi-gigabyte files there's not much of a performance difference between good SATA ssds, PCIe 3.0 NVMe drives, and PCIe 4.0 NVMe drives. If your work wouldn't hugely benefit from a PCIe 4.0 NMVe, I'd highly advice against spending an extra $200 for one. For 4GB of ssd storage I'd either recommend the MyDigitalSSD BPX Pro (the Rocket is a rebranded BPX Pro, but this is $20 less) for a system drive paired with an Intel 660p ($435 total) or a 1TB HP ex920 as a system drive paired with a 660p and a 1TB Adata SU800 ($418 total). Case: The newer version of the NZXT H500, the H510, is the same case but $20 cheaper and with a front usb-c port. It's also designed around keeping a powerful gpu cool. I'd consider a Meshify C instead - it has more traditional airflow and comes in a variety of colors or window/no window options. PSU: A 550W psu would be more than sufficient, especially with a cheap gpu. The Corsair RMX 550 (2018) is just $80 now (after rebate).
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Oct 23, 2019 05:01
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space marine todd posted:I have an Alienware Area-51m with an Intel i9-9900k, RTX 2080, and 64GB DDR4-2666 RAM. I want to sell it and build a desktop computer again (for playing Destiny 2 at 1440p/4k on a 144Hz G-Sync monitor and audio/video production). One person on Craigslist wants to trade his i9-9900k + RTX 2080 Ti + 32GB DDR4-3600 RAM desktop and throw in an additional $500 for my "laptop". Depending on what else is in that computer, it'd be ~$2,300 to $2,800 to build something new. From what I've seen in forums posts, the Sea Hawk isn't the best quality 2080 ti, but you could always replace the cooling with a Kraken G12 plus nice AIO. MSi cards have transferable warranty - just make sure that the seller removes their registration and you should be able to register it yourself. Removing the cooling doesn't void the warranty (damaging the pcb does, though).
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Oct 23, 2019 05:11
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Stickman posted:Depending on what else is in that computer, it'd be ~$2,300 to $2,800 to build something new. From what I've seen in forums posts, the Sea Hawk isn't the best quality 2080 ti, but you could always replace the cooling with a Kraken G12 plus nice AIO. MSi cards have transferable warranty - just make sure that the seller removes their registration and you should be able to register it yourself. Removing the cooling doesn't void the warranty (damaging the pcb does, though). Thanks! Out of curiosity, what AIO would you recommend with the Kraken if I removed the cooling?
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Oct 23, 2019 05:19
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space marine todd posted:Thanks! Out of curiosity, what AIO would you recommend with the Kraken if I removed the cooling? I don't really have much experience there, but the Corsair H55 is the generally the go-to cheaper option. It sounds like it still works well enough for a 2080 Ti. A 240mm radiator would be quieter still but definitely isn't necessary and they're pretty expensive. Apparently you need to use the G12's AMD bracket rather than the NVidia bracket, and you'd also want to buy some heatsinks for VRAM/VRM and decent thermal tape. I'd just start with the included aio, though. It's should be good enough, but you have the option of replacing it if starts giving you problems!
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Oct 23, 2019 05:46
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space marine todd posted:Thanks! Out of curiosity, what AIO would you recommend with the Kraken if I removed the cooling? I'm currently running a Kraken X52 with my Kraken G12 and it works great on an MSI 1080. I did get it on sale for $90 though, otherwise I would have gone with a Corsair 240mm (original H100 non-RGB if you can still find it, or H100i if you can get on sale for close to $100). I've heard the 240mm EVGA and Fractal Design AIO coolers are okay but haven't used them myself.
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Oct 23, 2019 06:48
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Scruff McGruff posted:Looks like a pretty solid build for your purposes. It might be worth also looking at a chassis like the Norco RPC-4308. Its shallower depth makes it able to fit into network/audio/Lack racks which can be more convenient/inexpensive in a home than a full depth server rack, though you would lose 4 bays over the Rosewill. If the size of the rack isn't an issue than it's no big deal plus with the Rosewill you don't have to bother with connecting your motherboard to the SAS connectors on the backplane of the Norco. At the moment I don't think rack size is a huge issue for me. And I think I would like to have the extra bays for the future. Because this is new to me, I'm just trying to rap my head about something. So I would use SAS HBA cards, use SAS to SATA cables to connect to the HDD or backplane? Right? I don't need an SFP(+) card and cable, right? I can use a 10Gb ethernet card and CAT5e/CAT6 cable, right? Actuarial Fables posted:You may want to budget for an SSD or two as well. Unraid provides the option to use an SSD as a cache device, which will greatly increase write performance due to how your write speed will otherwise be limited to the speed of a single HDD + your parity drive(s). Getting two SSDs allows you to use them as a pseudo-RAID1 volume to reduce the risk of data loss before they can dump their cache onto the HDD array. The case you have selected doesn't have any internal drive mounts, so you'll either have to have them loose in the case, use up some PCIe slots, or take up some of your hot swap bays. I forgot about the cache drives. Thanks for that reminder. I will add a couple of those.
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Oct 23, 2019 15:03
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Stickman posted:
This is incredibly useful thanks!
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Oct 23, 2019 15:28
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IndianaZoidberg posted:Because this is new to me, I'm just trying to rap my head about something. So I would use SAS HBA cards, use SAS to SATA cables to connect to the HDD or backplane? Right? That's correct. You would use something like these or these (depends on what connector your HBA uses) to connect your SAS HBA to the backplane of that specific case or directly to your SATA drives. The SAS standard includes the "Serial ATA Tunneling Protocol", allowing SATA drives to be used with SAS equipment - it's all transparent and you don't have to worry about it. (note that there are four SATA connectors per cable - this is because each port on a SAS HBA has four communication lanes. You can tell at a glance how many disks you can have directly connected to an HBA by multiplying the number of ports on the card by four) Also, if your card doesn't come pre-flashed, you'll likely have to flash the HBA to Initiator Target (IT) firmware so that the drives are presented to your OS (Unraid). A lot of cheap SAS controllers out there have Integrated Raid (IR) firmware and you won't be able to pass the disks to the OS, only the arrays that are configured on the controller. IndianaZoidberg posted:I don't need an SFP(+) card and cable, right? I can use a 10Gb ethernet card and CAT5e/CAT6 cable, right? Yes, you can use a 10Gb ethernet card. For copper 10Gb ethernet, CAT6 cable is fine for distances of less than 55m. CAT5e won't work. I have to ask though - why do you want a 10Gb connection? Does your use case support this need? Running a few plex streams on a gigabit connection isn't going to be a bottleneck, and unless you have multiple systems utilizing the full capabilities of your system, file transfers are likely not going to be limited either (unless a client also has a greater than gigabit connection). 10Gb networking can get expensive fast, and unless there's a reason why you really need it then I would suggest sticking to gigabit until there is one. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Oct 23, 2019 |
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Oct 23, 2019 16:19
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Actuarial Fables posted:Yes, you can use a 10Gb ethernet card. For copper 10Gb ethernet, CAT6 cable is fine for distances of less than 55m. CAT5e won't work.
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Oct 23, 2019 17:04
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Actuarial Fables posted:You may want to budget for an SSD or two as well. Unraid provides the option to use an SSD as a cache device, which will greatly increase write performance due to how your write speed will otherwise be limited to the speed of a single HDD + your parity drive(s). Getting two SSDs allows you to use them as a pseudo-RAID1 volume to reduce the risk of data loss before they can dump their cache onto the HDD array. The case you have selected doesn't have any internal drive mounts, so you'll either have to have them loose in the case, use up some PCIe slots, or take up some of your hot swap bays. I remember having great gains by enabling turbo (reconstruct) write, but I guess your mileage may vary.
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Oct 23, 2019 18:03
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Everything is going really well but it looks like my ram might be running slower than ideal. Any suggestions? If I'm reading it wrong I wouldnt be too surprised either honestly 
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Oct 23, 2019 18:51
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iamjohnsalt posted:Everything is going really well but it looks like my ram might be running slower than ideal. Any suggestions? If I'm reading it wrong I wouldnt be too surprised either honestly Can you refresh our memory as to what RAM you're running?
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Oct 23, 2019 18:52
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iamjohnsalt posted:Everything is going really well but it looks like my ram might be running slower than ideal. Any suggestions? If I'm reading it wrong I wouldnt be too surprised either honestly Select the memory tab to see what speed your RAM is running at. The SPD just shows the modules spec sheet.
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Oct 23, 2019 18:56
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Thanks again
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Oct 23, 2019 18:59
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iamjohnsalt posted:Thanks again K, yeah confirms you're not running at the rated 3200 speed. You just need to go into your motherboard BIOS and select the XMP profile for your RAM [edit] After doing that, the frequency in CPU-Z for your RAM under the memory tab should be 1600.
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Oct 23, 2019 19:01
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tyvm
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Oct 23, 2019 19:05
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Hello Best Thread. I'm finally upgrading my gtx 970, what's the current price/performance champ: 2070?
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Oct 24, 2019 08:58
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The 5700XT is excellent unless you REALLY need to play Control with ray traycing.
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Oct 24, 2019 09:08
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I was thinking it would be good to future proof with ray tracing, but is the 2070 going to be a bit under powered for it?
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Oct 24, 2019 09:21
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blk posted:Ryzen 2600x worth $30 over 2600? Not overclocking or changing coolers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apefSM59Ksk
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Oct 24, 2019 10:47
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Actuarial Fables posted:That's correct. You would use something like these or these (depends on what connector your HBA uses) to connect your SAS HBA to the backplane of that specific case or directly to your SATA drives. The SAS standard includes the "Serial ATA Tunneling Protocol", allowing SATA drives to be used with SAS equipment - it's all transparent and you don't have to worry about it. And that's what "IT" mode is! I was wondering what that meant since I've seen that thrown around a bit. I'll have to do some research on what that entails . Actuarial Fables posted:Yes, you can use a 10Gb ethernet card. For copper 10Gb ethernet, CAT6 cable is fine for distances of less than 55m. CAT5e won't work. Do I think I strickly need 10Gb networking, no, but I would like to have it. I want to try and somewhat "futureproof" it (at least when it comes to networking) and I know I don't need it for streaming, but I will probably end up working threw the NAS (kind of like those crazy people that edit videos off a NAS, but to a lesser extent). I don't think it will end up being "cold storage" for me, I will be accessing files off of it frequently. And while gigabit might be fine, like I said, 10Gb would hopefully net me futureproof a little bit.
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Oct 24, 2019 15:02
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sebmojo posted:I was thinking it would be good to future proof with ray tracing, but is the 2070 going to be a bit under powered for it? It's just too early to tell if it will take off at all. The next gen consoles will supposedly have hardware ray tracing support so we might get a lot of games that use it. Or it could be DOA with developers just focusing on 8k for the next 5 years. I'd just get the best bang for buck instead of thinking about 3-4 years from now.
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Oct 24, 2019 15:02
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IndianaZoidberg posted:Do I think I strickly need 10Gb networking, no, but I would like to have it. I want to try and somewhat "futureproof" it (at least when it comes to networking) and I know I don't need it for streaming, but I will probably end up working threw the NAS (kind of like those crazy people that edit videos off a NAS, but to a lesser extent). I don't think it will end up being "cold storage" for me, I will be accessing files off of it frequently. And while gigabit might be fine, like I said, 10Gb would hopefully net me futureproof a little bit. You might as well see how it goes with gigabit before shelling out for 10gb. It'll only get cheaper the longer you wait, and you might decide you don't need it.
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Oct 24, 2019 15:25
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Random Reboot Progress Update: I ran MemTest86 for, like, 4 hours. No errors detected and computer did not reboot. Left computer on in BIOS over night, did not reboot. Left computer on over night in Windows Safe Mode, did not reboot. Currently running in regular windows with a 970 swapped in for my 2070 to test the GPU. It's been up for about an hour, so way too early to call it. MikeC posted:I have been doing some reading here and there since you posted about this issue and it appears to be a Windows thing that certain people seem to get dicked over with. I have not found any kind of fix so far. Try this for now. Check your BIOS and turn off Core Performance Boost. Tell Windows not to restart upon BSOD by running SystemPropertiesAdvanced.exe and going to startup and recovery. Uncheck the automatic restart option so you can see the bluescreen. See if this helps or if it does crash, at least you see the bluescreen Does the fact that it seems to runs stable in BIOS and safe mode make it more likely that it's some weird Windows/driver glitch and not hardware related? I've unchecked automatic restart already. Instead of restarting, the screen just turns black and the monitor loses signal. LEDs and fans stay on. I don't ever get a BSOD or any error messages, other than what I can dig up in Event Viewer, which is basically "Critical: Your computer restarted unexpectedly." I installed a few different temp and fan speed monitoring programs, but nothing ever gets over 60C, with the exception of the time I stress tested the GPU and got it to 70C, but it stayed stable the whole time.
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Oct 24, 2019 15:31
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Sounds like a very strange GPU interaction may be the cause of your reboots
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Oct 24, 2019 15:51
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Epic Doctor Fetus posted:Random Reboot Progress Update Very likely imo since BIOS and Safe Mode seem to work fine from what you say. Have you turned off Core Boost yet? We might want to make sure that your CPU isn't boosting itself and causing an error at certain cases. If it runs stable without Core Boost then we can move forward. Also there is one guy that has said that uninstalling 3rd party monitoring programs fixed it for him. Try stripping windows to the bones with no monitoring. Keep at it. 😁
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Oct 24, 2019 15:54
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sebmojo posted:Hello Best Thread. I'm finally upgrading my gtx 970, what's the current price/performance champ: 2070? The 2070 uses the 2060 die and so does the 2060 super. If you can get a 2070 for the same price as a 2060 super then the 2070 is still a reasonable buy. The 2070 super uses a 2080 die and so does the 2080 super. It's in a fairly nice place price:perf wise, but the 5700 XT performs about the same for $100+ less unless you regularly play demanding DX9 and OpenGL games in which case nvidia is the way to go. Now may not be the best time to "future proof" because nvidia's new generation of cards is supposed to be out next year, and the 2xxx series has largely been 2016 price:perf. The 2070 super is pretty much a 1080 ti for 1080 ti pricing but 2-3 years later. It's likely RTX tensor cores are a temporary gimmick that won't be around in 2 generations as well. Khorne fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Oct 24, 2019 |
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Oct 24, 2019 15:58
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Mu Zeta posted:It's just too early to tell if it will take off at all. The next gen consoles will supposedly have hardware ray tracing support so we might get a lot of games that use it. Or it could be DOA with developers just focusing on 8k for the next 5 years. I'd just get the best bang for buck instead of thinking about 3-4 years from now. The only benefit from 8K is manufacturers selling new TVs to people that don't need them. I think the question is whether there will be enough RTX juice in the new consoles for devs to do much of anything with right away, or if it will be one of those PS3 situations where by the time the software's optimized and everyone has a handle on how to develop for it, the next console gen is out already and it doesn't matter.
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Oct 24, 2019 16:02
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MikeC posted:Very likely imo since BIOS and Safe Mode seem to work fine from what you say. Have you turned off Core Boost yet? We might want to make sure that your CPU isn't boosting itself and causing an error at certain cases. If it runs stable without Core Boost then we can move forward. I don't currently have any monitoring programs installed. I did a wipe and reinstall a few days ago and haven't put anything on so I could rule out software. I haven't fiddled with Core Boost yet. I'll do that next once/if the GPU swap fails.
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Oct 24, 2019 16:44
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Best bang for my buck for 1440p 144hz gaming out of 2070 super, 2080, 2080 super? Looking to spend maybe $750 max.
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Oct 24, 2019 16:54
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Can't wait to play the nextgen consoles at 10fps 8K!
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Oct 24, 2019 17:04
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Tugboat Willy posted:Best bang for my buck for 1440p 144hz gaming out of 2070 super, 2080, 2080 super? Looking to spend maybe $750 max. 2070 Super
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Oct 24, 2019 17:12
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Well, at least I got an error message this time. Progress, I guess. Going to swap the 2070 back in and try disabling core boost. Will report back.
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Oct 24, 2019 17:25
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Short version: I've got a 1080ti and a 1440p/165hz monitor and want to upgrade my ivybridge system (i5-3550, 16 gigs of ram) to Zen 2. I don't really know what to do motherboard wise, case wise, or ram wise beyond probably don't need more than 16 gigs of RAM, want 1 usb c front port and 2 usb A ports and a bigger sad would be nice. Have 3.5 year old EVGA psu and 2 hdds too. Edit: if the front usb c port is adding like $100-$150 to the price I'll just figure something else out/see if Amazon prime is giving me unlimited photo uploads. More details: I would like the motherboard and whatever case I get to support one usb c plug on the front USB prots for moving stuff off my phone every once in awhile. Case would also need space for at least 2 3.5" hard-drives and one 2.5" hard-drive if I just move everything over from my current computer. I'd probably also want to get a 1TB SSD (either just replacing the 850 EVO outright or adding it as the main SSD for the system). Been juggling moving games back and forth between SSD to the 4TB HDD too much this past year. Main uses would be video games, maybe some video encoding but it's pretty rare, and some batch photo resizing with irfanview. Basically I know a Ryzen 3600 (with a better cooler than the stock one) is good enough but I have no idea what to do motherboard, ram or case wise. My current case is a NZXT Source 210 and is still functional except for that front USB thing and the SSD bracket I put in causes cable nightmares since the SSD (and power and data cables) have to be flipped upside down My current computer also has a 3.5 year old 650W EVGA Supernova G2 which I'll probably just move over to the new one unless there's some reason I shouldn't. Not gonna bother moving the dvd-drive over I haven't used it in 3 years. MagusDraco fucked around with this message at 17:42 on Oct 24, 2019 |
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Oct 24, 2019 17:29
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:The only benefit from 8K is manufacturers selling new TVs to people that don't need them. I think the question is whether there will be enough RTX juice in the new consoles for devs to do much of anything with right away, or if it will be one of those PS3 situations where by the time the software's optimized and everyone has a handle on how to develop for it, the next console gen is out already and it doesn't matter. With how much Microsoft, Sony, and Google are investing in cloud gaming it seems likely that tenth gen is just going to be an xCloud/PSN/Stadia thin client with a subscription and that it's not going to take long for that to eclipse ninth gen consoles. I wonder if bandwith is going to become the more defining design limit for devs instead of console hardware. 8k is dumb as hell though. There is zero chance anything in this post will age poorly.
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Oct 24, 2019 18:03
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MagusDraco posted:Short version: I've got a 1080ti and a 1440p/165hz monitor and want to upgrade my ivybridge system (i5-3550, 16 gigs of ram) to Zen 2. I don't really know what to do motherboard wise, case wise, or ram wise beyond probably don't need more than 16 gigs of RAM, want 1 usb c front port and 2 usb A ports and a bigger sad would be nice. Have 3.5 year old EVGA psu and 2 hdds too. Edit: if the front usb c port is adding like $100-$150 to the price I'll just figure something else out/see if Amazon prime is giving me unlimited photo uploads. Most of the AMD boards have a USB-C port, but it's on the back. If you really want to poke through what's available here is every AM4 motherboard with far more information than most people ever need in spreadsheet form. If you are lazy the x570 elite from gigabyte has a usb-c front header and is a pretty strong board, but it's overkill for a 3600 unless you need or want its other features. To go-to budget boards like the B450 Tomahawk Max have usb-c but it's a rear port with no internal header. A good cheap option might be certain gigabyte x470 boards, but then you have to worry about whether it's flashed to a zen2 compatible bios or not. For RAM, I'd probably pick a 3200-3600 C16 kit that's 2x8 and relatively cheap. A micron Rev E kit is by far the best choice if you want to fiddle with overclocking it. Ballistix LT Sport with AES in the product code is micron rev E, like this one which 3000 C15. There is also a 3200 C16 kit that's usually priced identically from them. If you don't, something like 3600 C17 CJR kit is not bad for the price. I went from a heavily overclocked 3770k to zen2 and it's a big performance jump. Khorne fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Oct 24, 2019 |
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Oct 24, 2019 18:24
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Scruff McGruff posted:With how much Microsoft, Sony, and Google are investing in cloud gaming it seems likely that tenth gen is just going to be an xCloud/PSN/Stadia thin client with a subscription and that it's not going to take long for that to eclipse ninth gen consoles. I wonder if bandwith is going to become the more defining design limit for devs instead of console hardware. 8k is dumb as hell though. We'll see how stadia launch goes. My money's on "total bloodbath, google lets it fizzle over three sad years, quietly exits bideo gaming and never comes back" I just don't think it'll work in America, Canada or Australia. Internet access just straight up isn't good enough.
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Oct 24, 2019 19:10
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MagusDraco posted:Short version: I've got a 1080ti and a 1440p/165hz monitor and want to upgrade my ivybridge system (i5-3550, 16 gigs of ram) to Zen 2. I don't really know what to do motherboard wise, case wise, or ram wise beyond probably don't need more than 16 gigs of RAM, want 1 usb c front port and 2 usb A ports and a bigger sad would be nice. Have 3.5 year old EVGA psu and 2 hdds too. Edit: if the front usb c port is adding like $100-$150 to the price I'll just figure something else out/see if Amazon prime is giving me unlimited photo uploads. Adding on to Khorne's advice: The Gigbyte Elite is unfortunately the cheapest you can get usb-c front panel header on a motherboard that's compatible with 3rd-gen out the box. The Asus Prime X470-Pro has one and is a decent board, but doesn't have a CPU-less "flash bios" button so you'd have to either get a shop to update the bios or go through the hassle of getting a temporary cpu from AMD. If you have a Microcenter nearby you can save $30 when buying a motherboard & cpu together and they'll flash the bios for free. There are also internal 20-pin header pcie cards or adapters for internal gen 1 headers, but the former are pretty expensive and the latter wouldn't give you full gen 2 speed when plugged into a gen 1 header. There's also the issue of compatible cases - more and more are releasing, but it still restricts your options by quite a bit. The NZXT H510 and Fractal Design R6 USB-C / Meshify S2 have front usb-c ports, as does the Corsair 500D and Cooler Master H500m (not H500 or H500p). There's a few other options, but they're mostly they're on the expensive side. Another option would be to just get a cheaper motherboard like the ASRock X570 Pro 4 or the previously-mentioned MSi B450 Tomahawk MAX and attach a usb-c extension cable somewhere to the top or bottom of your desk. If you're buying from Microcenter then the ASRock B450 Pro4 would be the cheapest decent option with a rear 3.1 gen 2 usb-c port (like the Asus Prime X470-Pro it doesn't have a "flash bios" button). For the rest of the build, I'd consider Crucial Ballistix Sport LT for ram - its as cheap as recommended kits come, good out of the box, and Micron e-die memory will overclock well if you want to fiddle with it at some point. The 1TB Sabrent Rocket is the cheapest of the good system NVMe drives right now. Outside of working with very large files you won't see much of a performance boost over a good SATA drive, but the cheapest 1TB SATA drive I'd recommend only saves $10. Stickman fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Oct 24, 2019 |
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Oct 24, 2019 19:14
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