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That's a K bike, no crime was committed there
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Oct 25, 2019 05:00
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| # ? May 14, 2024 20:15 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:That's a K bike, no crime was committed there I rode a few old k bikes before I ever rode a boxer and it made me think BMW people have some weird brain disease (they do but it isn't SBS). Then I worked on one and my hatred matured into the fine smoky aroma of today. Boxers are cool though.
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Oct 25, 2019 05:12
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Yeah, it's an ugly old touring bike that was under $1k on craigslist, it doesn't seem like it would be hard to work on though. I wasn't methodical enough with the sanding, but now I'm thinking a mirror finish would be blinding in the sun. 
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Oct 25, 2019 14:58
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Yeah Polished metal bugs the poo poo out of me on bikes, especially on tanks. The PO of my goldwing stuck a giant chrome placard on the tank (because of loving course he did) and that thing would catch me all the time with a huge solar flare out of nowhere. Dont polish your tank.
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Oct 25, 2019 15:48
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Withnail posted:I wasn't methodical enough with the sanding, but now I'm thinking a mirror finish would be blinding in the sun. It absolutely would be and that is exactly why you need to do it
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Oct 25, 2019 16:47
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Don’t most bikes with chrome/mirror finish tanks have a painted top for just that reason? Thinking of the Honda Dream, that special edition Guzzi V7, etc.
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Oct 25, 2019 16:58
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Nobody cares about your comfort. Do you want a stupid cafe conversion or not? Polished tank would look rad on that. If you want to get all picky about silly things like form following function, get rid of the stupid clipons first and put a some rental fat bars on. Otherwise, cafe/scrambler/naked k bikes rule and I approve of what you are doing.
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Oct 25, 2019 18:33
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It looks pretty awesome
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Oct 25, 2019 18:55
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Probably the last day of this year (until April-May) that's going to be a. in the double digits and b. road clear of gravel/ice, so I rode to work one last time Windy as balls today but still fun
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Oct 25, 2019 20:41
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I made a proper custom bashplate for my nx250 from a cutting board. There is no after marked ones availiable. The stock one you need to remove to use a bike lifter, + it's pretty drat flimsy and not really protecting much. I fashioned up a rig with some welding clamps, a ladder and a strap. Heated it up in steps with a heat gun.  My brother had already made one for his winter bike so I borrowed his CAD template.   There wasn't really a need to cut the notches he had, as my foot controls are not that bent   This weekend I also removed some rust and flaky paint from the rear swingarm, the front exhaust pipe and parts of the frame, converted the rust(brunox ftw), and painted it. Fixed the adjustment of the headlight as I apparently had popped the fixed point in the beam adjuster L bracket of its swivel ball when I installed the cyclops led h4 bulb earlier. Now I can actually adjust the light again. Spayed the bike down with acf50 for winter driving.  Ready for winter. Supradog fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Oct 27, 2019 |
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Oct 27, 2019 18:50
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Ordered a FCR carb from an 08 crf250. Looked good on the advert, but on arrival the pilot screw was completely mangled and missing the spring/oring. The housing felt pretty mangled too, so I'm sending it back. I don't mind replacing parts and expected to at least change the jets, but if the carb housing itself is buggered there's no chance
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Oct 30, 2019 15:12
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Someone talk me out of dumping another 180 dollars into fairings for my bike. This is going to be set... 3 or 4 in 2 years? I keep cracking them under extremely dumb circumstances, and then I keep obsessing over the cracks. x_x Shoulda gotten a dualsport I guess.
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Nov 1, 2019 02:48
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Mirconium posted:Someone talk me out of dumping another 180 dollars into fairings for my bike. Zip tie stitching.
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Nov 1, 2019 04:54
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Spend that 180 dollars on a good soldering iron so you can weld your plastics back together.
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Nov 2, 2019 00:22
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Don’t buy new plastics till you quit cracking them.
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Nov 2, 2019 03:04
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don't use a good soldering iron for melting plastics ffs if you have to do it electrically, you can get a hot knife designed for the purpose at least
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Nov 2, 2019 03:28
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Renaissance Robot posted:Spend that 180 dollars on a good soldering iron so you can weld your plastics back together. This is like nails on blackboard.
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Nov 2, 2019 04:58
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Sorry, sorry, of course I meant spend the money on a dremel so you can fully commit to a street fighter conversion by grinding all the fairing mounts off and never looking back.
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Nov 2, 2019 09:31
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Mirconium posted:Someone talk me out of dumping another 180 dollars into fairings for my bike. Renaissance Robot posted:Sorry, sorry, of course I meant spend the money on a dremel so you can fully commit to a street fighter conversion by grinding all the fairing mounts off and never looking back. At a certain point you have to accept that fate just does not want you to have fairings on your bike.
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Nov 2, 2019 18:31
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This has been one of the best demonstrations of naked supremacy I've ever seen.
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Nov 2, 2019 18:52
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Well, devil's advocate for a good soldering iron is that if your soldering iron is actually good it probably has a removable tip with a setscrew, so you can just swap in a chisel bit/knife for plastic work, but plastic welding sucks and unless you have a million dollar fabrication facility it never works right.
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Nov 2, 2019 19:12
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Shelvocke posted:Ordered a FCR carb from an 08 crf250. I sent my first ebay FCR back for being mis-listed as the wrong year, making it an FCR37 besides which it was crusty as poo poo. The second one was also crusty as poo poo but the casting numbers indicated it was actually a 40mm carb so I just sent the seller a picture of the inside of the float bowl and he gave me half my money back. After a dip in the ultrasonic and thorough cleaning it seems totally fine. Here's wishing you better luck the second time around.
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Nov 3, 2019 01:25
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Yeah if you’re welding plastic with a soldering iron, that shits got one ride, maybe 2 before it’s split again.
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Nov 3, 2019 01:48
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Chemical welding with the appropriate solvent can work well and make a joint that's as strong as the original plastic. If you have ABS fairings, get a bottle of methylene chloride and press the parts together while running a bead of that stuff along the cracks, as if you're making a plastic model airplane. Works great. Will also destroy the paint and is illegal to purchase in California. If you have fiberglass fairings lol you're hosed because the cured epoxy or polyester resin resists nearly everything. You could try boiling them in nitric acid I guess
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Nov 3, 2019 01:56
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I thought the thing with fibreglass was to patch over cracks with new matting and resin in the back and then sand/repaint the front?
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Nov 3, 2019 13:30
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Renaissance Robot posted:I thought the thing with fibreglass was to patch over cracks with new matting and resin in the back and then sand/repaint the front? That would be correct. Nowadays you can also get cheap prepreg repair pads with UV curing resin that make the whole think a lot less messy. Just ge the fitting GF-Filler to level out the front again. E: also it's a good idea to drill out both ends of the Crack with a slightly oversized drill to make sure the Crack propagation is suppressed. Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Nov 3, 2019 |
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Nov 3, 2019 13:49
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Forecast for the week is snow/rain and cold, so I parked it down in the garage at my folks' place, will do winterization later this week. Not anticipating getting much riding in for the next six months unless we get a good chinook. On the bright side, looking forward to doing a carb synch and catching up on maintenance, rust prevention, gasket replacement etc. The Rex certainly seems like it's more "tinkery" than the Wee ever was.
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Nov 3, 2019 15:19
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Renaissance Robot posted:I thought the thing with fibreglass was to patch over cracks with new matting and resin in the back and then sand/repaint the front? Well sure, but then you're doing actual serious body work and you can do that to anything if you're willing to put in the effort. It's several steps more involved than "melt the cracked edges together with a soldering iron"
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Nov 3, 2019 17:27
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Sagebrush posted:Well sure, but then you're doing actual serious body work and you can do that to anything if you're willing to put in the effort. It's several steps more involved than "melt the cracked edges together with a soldering iron" Z I P T I E S T I T C H E S
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Nov 4, 2019 13:35
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Yerok posted:I sent my first ebay FCR back for being mis-listed as the wrong year, making it an FCR37 besides which it was crusty as poo poo. The second one was also crusty as poo poo but the casting numbers indicated it was actually a 40mm carb so I just sent the seller a picture of the inside of the float bowl and he gave me half my money back. After a dip in the ultrasonic and thorough cleaning it seems totally fine. Here's wishing you better luck the second time around. The second attempt one was really clean, had the right size jets to start with and an aftermarket fuel screw. I took it as positive karma for being nice to the guy who sold me the busted one.
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Nov 4, 2019 15:50
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Here's my preferred way of fixing plastics without making a horrible mess Of course thermoplastics only I have been using a cordless version of this for a few months now and it repaired bumpers, undercarriages and headlight fixtures so far. The stainless inserts are heated and melted into the plastic pieces at the crack. They stay as a permanent reinforcement. If you melt them in carefully from the back side you do not damage the front. I'm pretty sure wirh a bit of plier skills, a few paperclips and a bench power supply this can be recreated on the cheap too. Combat Theory fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Nov 4, 2019 |
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Nov 4, 2019 16:46
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Edit not quote, sorry
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Nov 4, 2019 16:51
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installed these sequential signals / DRLs technically last night, but videoed them this morning: not as obnoxiously bright as the lovely gif quality makes it, but they're way better than the original DOT bulbs and then the other LEDs I had installed a few months back
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Nov 5, 2019 15:35
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right arm posted:installed these sequential signals / DRLs technically last night, but videoed them this morning: Those look good and they move at a good speed. There's a dude I see sometimes on the way to work with a Jeep that has that style of indicator and they're dumb as hell, I dunno if they're OEM but it takes too long to do a full cycle across the light and they're dim. First couple of times I saw that style I thought it was a problem with the light or something
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Nov 5, 2019 17:54
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Not my ride but changed the cylinder head gasket on a gsxr1000 at college today. Was pretty cool
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Nov 5, 2019 19:06
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right arm posted:installed these sequential signals / DRLs technically last night, but videoed them this morning: I have these on my 250 Ninja and they replaced some hideous flush signals the PO thought were "wikked sik". Fourteen dollars on amazon will buy me a bag of these and they're a worthwhile investment. e: Actually mine are just lane change signals, the DRL is a neat touch. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Nov 5, 2019 |
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Nov 5, 2019 19:17
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Martytoof posted:I have these on my 250 Ninja and they replaced some hideous flush signals the PO thought were "wikked sik". Fourteen dollars on amazon will buy me a bag of these and they're a worthwhile investment. yeah these ones are $18 super easy to wire. I just plugged the DRLs into the switched ACC2 lead and spliced the signals into the original plugs from the DOT flashers. easy peasy some morons on advrider were buying them for like $80 from cyclops or something lol
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Nov 5, 2019 19:35
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There's a shitton of companies rebranding cheaply made Chinese accessories for an insane markup re. the above. Pretty smart business model
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Nov 5, 2019 20:09
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Ooooh nice! What are size A/B/C, I wonder?
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Nov 5, 2019 20:52
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| # ? May 14, 2024 20:15 |
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Put the Suzuki away for its annual winter nap. Drowning my sorrows at the brew pub across the street.
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Nov 6, 2019 00:45
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