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https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/10/27/coming-soon-ossiarch-bonereapers-a-new-painting-handle-and-more/ Some new paint accessories in there: +paint pot holder +spray stick +model clamp for painting
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Oct 28, 2019 05:26
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I wonder about that painting stick. Feels like the rubber bands they're using to secure the minis wouldn't last long being exposed to the harsh solvents in rattle-cans.
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Oct 28, 2019 07:28
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:I wonder about that painting stick. Feels like the rubber bands they're using to secure the minis wouldn't last long being exposed to the harsh solvents in rattle-cans. Hmm. That's not a bad point. Rubber bands would be cheap enough to replace, but finding ones that were strong enough and the right size might be a pain in the rear end.
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Oct 28, 2019 07:42
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When I saw the spray stick on the leaked ‘upcoming...’ list, I was first thinking that that was stupid as hell. Just use a literal stick and hobby tack, but then I was hmm, actually, a well designed one, with good grips and a longer length and a thing that makes it so you can easily switch sides, perhaps a perpendicular grip that can be rotated, maybe it’s not a bad idea. Seeing the thing, I’m now back to that’s stupid as hell. Also, that big bone stormfiend harvester looks cool as hell. I found out what is sorta grating on me with the visual of the bonerdudes and it’s that rather than being skeletons, they’re like empty suits of armor made of bones, and I just don’t think that very cool really.
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Oct 28, 2019 09:20
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Any spray stick that requires masking over the rim of the base when undercoating is a non-starter for me. Quite apart from the issues with rubber bands.
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Oct 28, 2019 11:37
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So I'm new to this whole mini painting thing. I did up about 20 guardsmen before using apple barrel paints, but I want to get into kill team, so bought and painted up a squad of chaos marines using Army Painter brand paint and shades. Here are the choice bits. The trim was a pain to paint, but I like how they turned out.
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Oct 28, 2019 16:12
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:Any spray stick that requires masking over the rim of the base when undercoating is a non-starter for me. Quite apart from the issues with rubber bands. I don’t understand. Why does this thing require masking but your usual method doesn’t? Keep in mind that I agree the stick is dumb.
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Oct 28, 2019 21:33
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:I don’t understand. Why does this thing require masking but your usual method doesn’t? Double-sided tape means no masking.
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Oct 28, 2019 21:56
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Werix posted:So I'm new to this whole mini painting thing. I did up about 20 guardsmen before using apple barrel paints, but I want to get into kill team, so bought and painted up a squad of chaos marines using Army Painter brand paint and shades. The minis look great but you really need to find a new basing technique. I recommend picking up a texture paint you like the look of from Vallejo or GW (or wherever). You can get good, quick results by globbing a bit on, waiting for it to dry and then drybrushing it. There's also the DiY method with elmer's glue and sand, but you'll have a hard time getting as good results.
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Oct 28, 2019 22:50
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The Moon Monster posted:The minis look great but you really need to find a new basing technique. I recommend picking up a texture paint you like the look of from Vallejo or GW (or wherever). You can get good, quick results by globbing a bit on, waiting for it to dry and then drybrushing it. There's also the DiY method with elmer's glue and sand, but you'll have a hard time getting as good results. Thanks. Glad to know the minis look okay. Basing models is the least interesting part of the painting for me, and I was half tempted to commit the sin of keeping them black. I used liquidtex sand resin which I mixed with the paint and painted it on.
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Oct 28, 2019 23:18
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Werix posted:Thanks. Glad to know the minis look okay. Even if you stick with that, keep it off the rims of the bases. Textured rims always look weird
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Oct 28, 2019 23:27
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:I don’t understand. Why does this thing require masking but your usual method doesn’t? I use Blu-Tac under the base onto cork with a smaller diameter than the base. So the rims sit proud and clear.
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Oct 28, 2019 23:53
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Werix posted:So I'm new to this whole mini painting thing. I did up about 20 guardsmen before using apple barrel paints, but I want to get into kill team, so bought and painted up a squad of chaos marines using Army Painter brand paint and shades. Looking great! Good enough for 'pro painted' on ebay for sure! I've gotten a LOT of mileage out of that Liquitex resin sand gel poo poo. I used to put it on all my commissioned pieces with broken pieces of a slate tile I hit with a hammer from the hardware store ( for all of $1) and that was my "Basic Basing package" Worked great never had any complaints: 
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Oct 29, 2019 00:28
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those look like delicious chocolate candies
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Oct 29, 2019 02:09
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Big food doesn't want people to know that you can just eat tile it's not illegal or anyting
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Oct 29, 2019 02:24
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Doorknob Slobber posted:those look like delicious chocolate candies Its meant to match the terrain of a specific Daemon World where enslaved Aeldari (from the lost Kee'blaar craftworld) toil away inside the hollowed out husks of giant Feculent Gnarlmaws to produce semi-sweet nourishment disks for sedentary Great Unclean Ones. heh cookie jokes
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Oct 29, 2019 02:25
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Brock Samsonite posted:Looking great! Good enough for 'pro painted' on ebay for sure! Hey man, thanks! That's good to hear. Do you just paint the liquitex onto the base, let it dry, and then dry brush onto the resin? Or mix it with paint? Also, I'll keep in mind to not paint the sides of the bases from now on too.
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Oct 29, 2019 03:45
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Almost certainly do all the liquitex and anything else first, then prime and paint that. Mixing the paint in will never look good compared to even just a basecoat + drybrush.
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Oct 29, 2019 05:36
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bought first strike set, hate ultramarines, here look at my first space marine ive ever painted. hopefully the picture quality is not lovely and embarrassing because im p. proud of this dude       
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Oct 29, 2019 08:32
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im pooping! posted:bought first strike set, hate ultramarines, here look at my first space marine ive ever painted. hopefully the picture quality is not lovely and embarrassing because im p. proud of this dude That freehand is fantastic especially for your first! Is that a contrast paint you're using for the grey? If not then I'd advise next time you use another coat or two, likely thinned down a hair to keep it smooth. If it is contrast someone else may have better advise, I have not gotten to use them yet so couldn't tell you the tricks to get them looking right. A lot of getting rid of that streaky look is just good brush control and that comes with time. Overall that looks wonderful for your first marine, they can be tricky to get right with all the flat panels. You should be proud!
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Oct 29, 2019 20:07
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Def what Cinara said. I usually get a good even coat I apply with a popsicle stick, rough it up in 2-3 spots. Prime, paint, drybrush = done
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Oct 29, 2019 20:11
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BEHOLD: the ugliest paint pot holder in the world Works like a charm though!  
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Oct 29, 2019 20:17
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i used vallejo gray mixed with blue for the base coat then i washed him with army painter dark tone and i think thats what made him look all dirty and streaky like. i guess i just gotta get used to using wash which works great for the poxwalkers that came with the first strike kit because they are supposed to be dirty and disgusting. possibly not so much for space marines.
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Oct 29, 2019 20:22
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im pooping! posted:i used vallejo gray mixed with blue for the base coat then i washed him with army painter dark tone and i think thats what made him look all dirty and streaky like. i guess i just gotta get used to using wash which works great for the poxwalkers that came with the first strike kit because they are supposed to be dirty and disgusting. possibly not so much for space marines. Space Marines have lots of smooth flat surfaces which don't take washes well. You either want to apply the wash to crevices only, or clean up the flat surfaces with your base color after doing an all over wash.
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Oct 30, 2019 00:17
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I recently bought my first airbrush (Badger Patriot) and I'm figuring out what I'm doing. After a day or so of painting, the end of the brush looks like this:  None of the videos I've watched about using and maintaining airbrushes mention this. Is this the expected behavior? It doesn't seem to be affecting the airbrush's performance. Should I be doing something about this, or is this just how airbrushes are? How should I go about cleaning it?
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Oct 30, 2019 03:10
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I put airbrush thinner on a qtip and wipe all the paint off.
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Oct 30, 2019 04:17
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Good tip I saw one time was keeping a moist sponge nearby and just dabbing the tip from time to time to keep it moist, but yeah some thinner will clean it off relatively well. Flow improver helps prevent that as well. Using thinner will cause it over time, but that little bit of flow improver keeps things on an even keel till you can run cleaner through it. Please bear in mind my advice is as someone who is very much an amateur, but I can do a fairly nice yellow basecoat, so I dunno
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Oct 30, 2019 04:53
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:https://www.warhammer-community.com/2019/10/27/coming-soon-ossiarch-bonereapers-a-new-painting-handle-and-more/ I didn't have high hopes for the spray stick, and it looks and sounds like it's garbage. I've had some issues here and there with just a stick and double sided tape, but it works well for the most part. With the Skitarii I primed recently, I decided to prime them before putting them on a base (since I find it difficult to get the texture paint on without getting on the mini's feet). Since the Skitarii have thin legs, though, it's hard to keep them upright with just tape, so I thought maybe poster tack or mounting putty would be helpful. With that, it seems like you'd have a bit more flexibility in how you position the model, and don't have to worry about it falling off onto the ground ad much. I am considering getting a painting handle at some point, though, since they seem pretty cheap, and it's probably better than just handling the mini by the base all the time.
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Oct 30, 2019 05:26
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Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:I recently bought my first airbrush (Badger Patriot) and I'm figuring out what I'm doing. After a day or so of painting, the end of the brush looks like this: This seems to be a problem mostly unique to the patriot, as every other airbrush I’ve used does not have that wide flat area around the tip of the regulator like that. Having some paint on the surface there won’t affect the patriot unless there’s enough to block the nozzle. You can use a qtip and some cleaner to clean it off, or if it’s especially stubborn use a toothpick or plastic bristle brush to scrape it off. Don’t use a metal tool or wire brush as it will scratch the brass and make it easier for paint to stick to it in the future.
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Oct 30, 2019 05:48
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Max Wilco posted:I am considering getting a painting handle at some point, though, since they seem pretty cheap, and it's probably better than just handling the mini by the base all the time. If you have any old bottles of GW paint kicking around, they make cheap and effective stands. Just mount the model with some blu-tac on top and you're good to go. This works best with the old flip-top design circa 2000's before they relaunched the paint line  These have a nice indent to them, which I find helps secure the model; most 28mm bases will just barely overflow the indent, and are less likely to tip over. The old shell-shaped bottles are really poor for this, as are the new line, as their rounded top means the model just falls all over the drat place. If the old bottle has very little or no paint, you can fill it with some lead balls or resin to give it more weight. Helps to keep the whole thing from falling over. Keep in mind that if you're using anything larger than a 40mm round you're gonna have problems, as they're too small a secure point to keep them balanced.
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Oct 30, 2019 13:42
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I use the cap/cork from a bottle of captain Morgan private stock with poster putty/blue tac and put it on the cork side. The texture on the cap itself makes a good grip surface.
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Oct 30, 2019 14:16
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Max Wilco posted:I didn't have high hopes for the spray stick, and it looks and sounds like it's garbage. I've had some issues here and there with just a stick and double sided tape, but it works well for the most part. With the Skitarii I primed recently, I decided to prime them before putting them on a base (since I find it difficult to get the texture paint on without getting on the mini's feet). Since the Skitarii have thin legs, though, it's hard to keep them upright with just tape, so I thought maybe poster tack or mounting putty would be helpful. With that, it seems like you'd have a bit more flexibility in how you position the model, and don't have to worry about it falling off onto the ground ad much. Use super glue with an accelerant (water or actual super glue accelerant) to stick a single foot to the base when spraying with rattle can/airbrush, and when you're finished with that or with painting the whole model, go back and tip your xacto knife under the foot and pop it off. Then make your base and glue the guy on top. I did it with Necrons thin little feet and ankles just fine (I might have broke one out of a hundred or so I made) just be careful and don't use too much glue.
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Oct 30, 2019 15:04
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Airbrush question! I'm learning to use my airbrush, and one of the first set of models I ran through basecoating was a set of Space Marines in Salamanders colors. I loved how these turned out using an initial basecoat of Caliban Green, followed by a secondary full coat of Warpstone Glow on top. My question is: Do I need to do both? I know with traditional painting the base coat is necessary in order to shine through a bit of the layer since it's thicker and that gives the layer colors more pop, etc. etc., but is that still true with the way a airbrush applies coverage? I'm happy to do both, just don't want to waste the paint and time if it isn't going to make a difference! I should really learn how to Zenithal highlight instead of essentially doing two basecoats but I think that's gonna be step two with my Nighthaunt ghosties once I am comfortable with the basic mechanics of the airbrush operation 
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Oct 30, 2019 22:04
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If you're doing a flat basecoat through an airbrush then no, you don't need to do a preparatory coat unless you're going to do transitions or shading. Or your undercoat is making it particularly hard to get the paint to the right tone. The way it applies removes the translucency issue that requires 'firming up' layers before the final colour when using a traditional brush.
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Oct 30, 2019 22:25
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OTOH you could do a zenitheal thing where the darker color is applied from a low angle and the lighter coat is applied at a high angle.
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Oct 30, 2019 23:17
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Anyone have any recommendations on painting workstations? I think Id prefer one that’s portable. Any decent brands for modular + portable; Ive seen some lasercut ones online but not in person and have no idea as to the quality.
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Oct 30, 2019 23:57
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The Citadel Hobby box they put out a couple of years ago is surprisingly good. The top comes away to be a tray to paint on, and the inside has plenty of well though out spaces including angled brush holders.
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Oct 31, 2019 00:01
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So I’ve been painting some of the Clone Wars core set for Legion. I posted Obi-Wan already, but I just finished my first squad of clones (minus the heavy weapons). The sergeant on the far right was my test scheme, and moving left you can almost see the improvements as I went model by model  
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Oct 31, 2019 00:26
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Lovely Joe Stalin posted:The Citadel Hobby box they put out a couple of years ago is surprisingly good. The top comes away to be a tray to paint on, and the inside has plenty of well though out spaces including angled brush holders. Ahh but I use mostly dropper bottle paints, I dont think the trays would work :/
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Oct 31, 2019 00:34
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Sharks Dont Sleep posted:Anyone have any recommendations on painting workstations? I think Id prefer one that’s portable. Any decent brands for modular + portable; Ive seen some lasercut ones online but not in person and have no idea as to the quality. I use one from Hobby Zone and it works great. Came preassembled, sturdy, resists repeated spills, easy to tuck into a cupboard for storage. I think it's either this one or very similar: https://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/tables-for-painting/14-paint-station.html
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Oct 31, 2019 01:48
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