|
I had a problem like that, the problem was a little bit of filament creating a bulb just before the brass nozzle and it would bunch up at my extruder and start chewing the filament. Retraction is what was setting it off, or causing the bulb. If I left retraction off I could get away with no problems. I tried fighting it by raising and raising temperature to melt the bulb and force it through the nozzle but it always bulbed and clogged eventually even if the temp thing worked initially. Thing is, I could usually get one or two good prints out of the machine before it started screwing up again. It was actually inadequate hotend cooling causing heat creep to climb up too high in the hotend which was allowing that bulb to form in the first place. increasing the heat was making my problem worse, not better. Fixing how the hotend fan was focused on the fins and printing a bit cooler allowed the heat to stay managed at the nozzle and I can have retraction wherever I want it now and it doesn't cause a bulb at the heat break. I suppose a better hotend design wouldn't have a place where this could happen internally, but I think it was a discrepancy between the stock heat sink and aftermarket nozzle not having the same internal diameters
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 19:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 13:26 |
|
|
You could get a Mosquito. But it's $$$.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 19:03
|
|
|
Whenever I switch from e.g. PETG to PLA, I will grab the shittiest PLA I have and feed like a foot of filament through at PETG/ABS temps to hopefully clear out any leftover filament and then load in the PLA I actually want to use I don’t know if this is a bad thing to do, but it has served me pretty well in avoiding PETG/ABS/TPU clogs
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 19:05
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:You could get a Mosquito. But it's $$$. Have they been cloned yet?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 19:11
|
|
|
mekilljoydammit posted:That sounds like a bingo to me. yep, i think ive got my experimental workflow down. all the tooling I want to make is basically single-faced castings with a flat back, real simple stuff that investment casting is overkill for. this feels like a really good application for the "delft clay technique", basically sand-casting adapted for jewellery purposes (the particles are fine-grained clay so surface finish is excellent, two-part dies are less prone to crumbling, and you can re-use the sand afterwards). it's the only easy way to get excellent surface finish with a reusable process that doesn't require permanent dies. - use resin printer with a normal non-burnout medium to produce just the detailed 3d components of a given tool; if i were making a bas-relief medallion, for example, id get just the to-be-embossed surface down to a depth of like 0.1" or so, ignoring the rest of the medallion + overall die geometry - build up rest of the die positive with cheaper materials, prolly stuff like plywood/hardboard blocks for the die plate the design risese from, or using laser-cut slices for "2.5d" features consisting of flat planes parallel to the die base. finished positive is a composite assembly, reflecting the cheapest/fastest ways to make eash component - create the lower sand die half by pressing the positive into delft clay-packed cope until it's fully "buried"; the upper die half is just a flat surface w the casting channels/vents added - melt kirksite alloy (i'd probably need a ~1kg jeweller's melting furnace or 1000W+ induction heater w crucible-sized work coil for doing the bigger dies i'd want to make, I don't have either of those but isn't hard to DIY a resistance wire furnace for low-temp stuff like zinc) - pour metal, let it cool, remove and finish cast die, with trimmed sprues et al going back into the melt - sift small amount of blackened mould sand out of the die cavity face and discard, the rest is perfectly reusable trying to produce press tooling directly w a printer just doesn't seem like a great fit; almost all material options are too soft to keep well-defined forms n detail under many tons of force, and most of them would just permanently deform or crumble. the few resins/filaments that might "work, poorly" are prohibitively expensive. instead I focus on making/buying high-detail high-finish-quality models as cheaply and quickly as possible w additive manufacturing, and then wedding it to an industry-proven rapid tooling process like Kirksite casting that's well-suited to my specific needs. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Oct 31, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 19:40
|
|
|
mattfl posted:Is this because I didn't let the hotend fully cool down to room temp before switching out materials? I left the printer alone over night and after work today I'll do my cleaning routine and see if that helps. No. It's because you'll have remnants of filament that melt at higher temps than the one you are using left in the hot end introducing drag and cold spots on the lower temp filament. Always purge with current filament at temps high enough to melt the previous filament before printing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 20:52
|
|
|
insta posted:Have they been cloned yet?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 21:05
|
|
|
mattfl posted:Is this because I didn't let the hotend fully cool down to room temp before switching out materials? I left the printer alone over night and after work today I'll do my cleaning routine and see if that helps. So if you switch from ABS to PLA that means that the residual ABS in the nozzle - which need to be printed at about 250 C - can't melt effectively since the PLA is only heated to about 205 C. There are "cleaning filaments" that can melt without issues between 190 and 260 C. It helps to run some of that stuff through the nozzle for a while to push out all the old filament that is stuck inside before changing to another type.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 21:35
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:Not sure. Gotta check out AliExpress later today. I wouldn't be surprised. I think this is pretty close? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...rchweb201603_52
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 22:27
|
|
|
Sockser posted:Whenever I switch from e.g. PETG to PLA, I will grab the shittiest PLA I have and feed like a foot of filament through at PETG/ABS temps to hopefully clear out any leftover filament and then load in the PLA I actually want to use I do the same when switching from Nylon to PLA. Extrude a bunch at 250, switch the temperature to 215 and continue to extrude as it cools off.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 22:48
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:I do the same when switching from Nylon to PLA. Extrude a bunch at 250, switch the temperature to 215 and continue to extrude as it cools off. That's how I do it. Push the new filament in at the old filament temps, until it's clean. SPEAKING OF WHICH. I may know some of my stringing. I was doing a bulgy print for doing vases. .7mm width, through a .4mm head. ..... And then I tried doing my stringing tests without resetting to .4mm width through a .4mm head. No wonder i'm getting some really awful prints. *shakes head* gonna try a few things tonight.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 23:00
|
|
|
So I did a cold pull and managed to get a quick print done, the weird thing is, with about 5 minutes left of the print, the hot end temp dropped from 210 to 205 and for the last 5 minutes of the print never got back up to temp even though the set temp was 210. So, that's kinda weird. It managed to finishing printing, barely but there was a few times in those last minutes where it was not able to extract any filament and I got the clicking noise for a few seconds. edit: And as I say that and start the second print, it gets a few minutes into the print and clogs....mother gently caress. edit 2: And another new symptom, thought I'd try to redo my first layer calibration, maybe it was too low, now I can't even get the first layer to lay down. The purge line goes down fine, but as soon as it tries to start the actual print, it's like it's not flowing enough to stick to the sheet so the filament catches on the nozzle and immediately starts to blob around it. For sale, one slightly used i3 mk2.5s......grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr mattfl fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Nov 1, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2019 23:01
|
|
|
mattfl posted:I think this is pretty close? By all reports, that clone is super lovely, just like the Mellow V6. https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/b0nxj2/my_chinese_hotend_collection/ TL says there’s enough complicated machining on the Mosquito that it’s not worth their time to clone, if that’s any indication. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Nov 1, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 02:35
|
|
|
mattfl posted:I think this is pretty close? --edit: The heat block seems aluminium. It being copper on the original Mosquito seems to make a large difference. --edit: Oh, they claim it's copper, too. eddiewalker posted:TL says there’s enough complicated machining on the Mosquito that it’s not worth their time to clone, if that’s any indication. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Nov 1, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 05:27
|
|
|
I have entered the DIY 6 axis robot arm phase This is actually v2, but v1 involves a bunch of extruded aluminium to cut and this is just 3d printed so it's coming along faster. All my bearings started arriving from amazon, here are a few locked in plastic right now. Everything seats snugly and spins nice. I'm just building one pan/tilt or x/y section for now, if it works I'll build more and connect them together. It's just stepper motors and worm gears inside, no fancy BLDC or cycloidal gears until v3. I only have one 3d printed gt2 pulley in each axis' drivetrain and it's an 80 tooth so hopefully the overkill on tooth engagement makes up for any wonkiness that may be there due to printing it. the rest are metal, and it's all pretty low RPM anyways except the initial motor. I hope it works bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 06:45 on Nov 1, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 06:38
|
|
|
Is there any good and simple local software I can use instead of loving thingiverse's customizer for parametric models?
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 21:52
|
|
|
well I was on thingiverse the other day and downloaded a parametric file for Fusion that allows you to build whatever kind of GT2 pulley you want. But I didn't have Fusion installed and didn't want to bother then I found a .stl of the size I wanted anyways. IDK why they didn't just make it one of those ones you can edit on the website, seems like that would have been the easier option. Maybe they're the same thing and they just didn't check a box on the uploader or whatever. I dont think this will help you
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 22:05
|
|
|
Thermopyle posted:Is there any good and simple local software I can use instead of loving thingiverse's customizer for parametric models? I'm not sure if it covers all models but most of the parametric ones I find on thingiverse are made in OpenSCAD so I've always downloaded the .scad file and used that to plug in numbers. OpenSCAD is a little clunky but I've found a lot of nice customizable models made in it that I've used. It helps when a model author puts the important stuff at the top because it essentially becomes a config file for the object you want.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 22:06
|
|
|
bring back old gbs posted:IDK why they didn't just make it one of those ones you can edit on the website, seems like that would have been the easier option. because then they would have to use OpenSCAD
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 22:10
|
|
|
Thermopyle posted:Is there any good and simple local software I can use instead of loving thingiverse's customizer for parametric models? Fusion 360 can do some parametric customisation. Changing dimensions is perfectly doable but don't expect to automatically generate tessellations or anything like that. Plus you'll need to be at least somewhat familiar with it and set up your design correctly.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 22:45
|
|
|
What's the easiest software to learn 3d modeling with? I've got a couple weird things in mind I'd like to make, but I am a completely newbie when it comes to this kinda stuff. If it helps, most of the stuff would be curves or organic looking. Dunno if that helps or hinders.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 22:54
|
|
|
Honestly for organic shapes, picking up Sculptris is probably the best bet. Blender is less user friendly, but extremely robust. There's a fabulous tutorial series on YouTube for it. Zbrush is the standard, but I believe it's money money. Solid modeling systems like Fusion 360, FreeCAD and Onshape are much more CNC and engineering oriented.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 23:03
|
|
|
Yep. Sculptris for organic, Fusion360 for mechanical. gently caress all others.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 23:07
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:I'm not sure if it covers all models but most of the parametric ones I find on thingiverse are made in OpenSCAD so I've always downloaded the .scad file and used that to plug in numbers. OpenSCAD is a little clunky but I've found a lot of nice customizable models made in it that I've used. It helps when a model author puts the important stuff at the top because it essentially becomes a config file for the object you want.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 23:18
|
|
|
I’ve been learning SolidWorks from some Lynda.com course and it seems really simple to use. I attempted fusion360 first and it didn’t click with me the way SolidWorks does. SolidWorks is admittedly much more expensive but, you know, there are ways.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2019 02:14
|
|
|
Seems pretty silly to suggest cracked cad when there are so many great free options now, and even the student version of Solidworks permanently flags every file it produces. If you’re starting from nothing, learning Fusion360 is such a great deal. I don’t even have to lie. I just check “yes I am a hobbyist” once a year and get unrestricted access to a full CAD/CAM package. I’ve heard that OnShape is an easy transition for people with “solidworks brain” and also has a free license.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2019 03:19
|
|
|
As a hobbyist you should use Sculptris for organic stuff and Fusion 360 for mechanical stuff. Get Blender (2.8+) if you outgrow Sculptris. You won't outgrow Fusion 360 unless you start using it professionally. If you want to spend money, Rhino would be my choice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2019 03:40
|
|
|
GutBomb posted:I’ve been learning SolidWorks from some Lynda.com course and it seems really simple to use. I attempted fusion360 first and it didn’t click with me the way SolidWorks does. Speaking of, I have a pretty great way to get a cheap student license! The EAA (Experimental Aircraft Association) has a program where if you pay dues ($40/year standalone, $36/year with auto renew enabled) you get a full student suite of Solidworks, including their PCB software. This is the route I've taken to get it, and it's been great! Lots of things to wrap my brain around, but I'm loving it so far.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2019 06:38
|
|
|
I've been using 3DS Max since like R4 when my cousin got me a particularly sketchy CD that contained it among some other questionable stuff. I'm still using it (well not the R4) occasionally for general modeling but once I got a printer I quickly discovered that designing actual IRL physical things is a huge pain in the rear end. Maybe there are plugins or other ways to make it more usable but instead I just tried Fusion 360 and everything made sense immediately. It does look like it's a bit crippled compared to the real big boy CAD but so far it's been more than sufficient for hobby stuff. For the organic stuff ZBrush also seems useful sometimes for adding final details, although its UI makes me want to strangle their entire UX team [if they have one]. E: Also Fusion360 is a weird cloud thing as I suspected. It's not actually a web app thankfully, but you still have to be always signed in, Autodesk keeps all your files and some things like STL export are done "in the cloud" so you have to wait until it's processed on the server for some reason. It'll also do updates whenever it wants. But at least it's free and works with a fake name/address so I can live with that. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Nov 2, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2019 18:29
|
|
|
NewFatMike posted:Speaking of, I have a pretty great way to get a cheap student license! Solidworks had (may still have) a program like that for Veterans. Email a copy of your DD214 and you get a free educational license for a year.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2019 19:23
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:Seems pretty silly to suggest cracked cad when there are so many great free options now, and even the student version of Solidworks permanently flags every file it produces. Yeah, about Onshape https://www.ptc.com/en/news/2019/ptc-to-acquire-leading-saas-product-development-platform-provider-onshape
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2019 21:11
|
|
|
It'll be interesting to see if they deprecate onshape or axe CREO. I've heard that onshape has some issues with large assemblies that the CREOs/NXes/CATIAs of the worlds don't, but I have no idea if that still applies in 2019.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2019 01:42
|
|
|
Back to Solidworks I guess.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2019 04:31
|
|
|
I really liked how Sculptris default loads up a sphere with a sensible interface and cheat sheet on the side so you can just immediately start loving around and get a feel for the tools.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2019 06:37
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:That’s also an option, yeah. Aluminum is appealing because scrap is everywhere and fairly easy to differentiate by alloy based on the scrap type (extrusions, pop cans etc get made with specific n predictable alloys), zinc is a lot harder to accurately sort and almost all scrap will be at best decorative zamak metals alloyed for surface finish and not mechanical strength (and horrid pot metal when you’re less lucky). My eye kinda twitched here... If anyone is melting down metals, know your forge temperature, if you are using a programmable furnace/kiln then it's no big deal to set the temperature but I've seen too many backyard blacksmiths with a roaring propane forge melt down scraps and not know that Zinc/Zinc Alloys have a low melting point but also a low boiling point compared to many other metals. Zinc Oxide gas is not something you want to deal with. I use 850F for roughly the pouring temperature of zinc alloys, and I havent' gotten into aluminum yet but that's still enough of a margin away from the zinc boiling point.
|
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2019 15:20
|
|
|
Big K of Justice posted:My eye kinda twitched here... I've done a fair bit of small zinc casting into two-part oilsand molds before, and the tempering oven I'd likely prototype with has electronic temp control. I've also gotten metal fume fever repeatedly from welding, so yeah, I'm acquainted. That said, I've never done the melt with an electric oven, with its different atmosphere and slower heat than I'm used to, and I'd likely want to eventually cast larger parts than I have previously (maybe 150% as large so not a tremendous scaling up), so I'll have to be more rigorous with my process as well as workspace setup/PPE, but I'd be starting with small castings until I can reliably get defect-free tooling surfaces on my parts. Most Zamak alloys should be done with a bottom-tapping casting machine, which I don't have, but Zamak 2/Kirksite is luckily the only Zamak-series alloy that's regarded as suitable for gravity casting. So yeah, I have my reservations and uncertainties, but I know enough to not turn a pound of zinc into The Bad Fever Smoke by accident. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Nov 3, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 3, 2019 21:05
|
|
|
Hey so my Anycubic Photon S is arriving tomorrow. I've been reading up on the basics of SLA printing, but I've got two questions that I haven't seen answers to: When can I walk away from the printer and be reasonably sure the print will finish successfully? With FDM, I can leave the printer unattended after the first few layers - If those are fine, nine times out of ten the print will run to completion successfully, barring any problems with the model. And related to that - What are the consequences of a SLA print failing, not being canceled, and running to completion? With FDM, you get a nice big bowl of spaghetti, and possibly a lump of plastic around the nozzle. What happens if, say, adhesion fails on a SLA print four hours into an eight hour print, and the print runs until it's done?
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2019 00:02
|
|
|
You won't know when or if the print is gonna make it for probably an hour or so. Layer buildup is SLOW so there's no sitting and watching. It'll take that long to move the bed out of the resin vat. If a print fails, it can be either a partial print on the bed or it can just be a solid lump of resin you need to peel.off the fep film, or both. Either way, filter the resin to make sure you get all the cured bits out and try it again. Honestly leveling the bed on my Mars is loving simple compared to my tevo. I e had a few failed prints but it's because I didn't realize that when you think you have it looking right to print, add more supports.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2019 00:13
|
|
|
So a failed print isn't really something I need to worry about, unlike with FDM, where it can cause damage to the machine in the worst case? There are no possible consequences other than, well, the print failing, and some resin being wasted?
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2019 00:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 22, 2024 13:26 |
|
|
The biggest concern is going to be making sure you get all the cured pieces of resin out of your resin vat. There's no shutoff switch or limiter that says "oh poo poo there's something in the way, maybe I should stop!". It'll just slam down and force the resin bit into the LCD and gently caress it up. WHILE it's printing and fails? I doubt that will happen. AFTER it's failed and finished, and you decide to just do one more without checking the FEP or the vat? Yup. It'll smash the gently caress out of that screen, plus if it punctures the film you'll leak resin all into and around your machine. Most of mine fell off the bed and just ended up as a big blob of cured resin I needed to peel off with a fingernail. Grab a set of paint filters and a cheap set of tupperware and a funnel and you can get the resin cleaned out quick. So yea, failed prints are both nothing to really worry about, but can also royally gently caress up your machine if you aren't careful. If you follow some easy steps though, you won't have to worry about it. Just NEVER go "ah, gently caress it, I'll just hit print again" before cleaning and potentially releveling your bed.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2019 00:38
|
|