Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

So is there something on my end that I can block it on my pi hope so ubiquiti can pound sand?

e: looks like you just block ping.ubnt.com to stop the data collection. Really, their presser says there is nothing retaliation wise they are taking for folks blocking it with a network rule, so why not just add a on/off switch (other than they want that sweet sweet data because many folks aren't even going to realize its phoning home to begin with)

KKKLIP ART fucked around with this message at 15:56 on Nov 3, 2019

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Raymond T. Racing
Jun 11, 2019

KKKLIP ART posted:

So is there something on my end that I can block it on my pi hope so ubiquiti can pound sand?

e: looks like you just block ping.ubnt.com to stop the data collection. Really, their presser says there is nothing retaliation wise they are taking for folks blocking it with a network rule, so why not just add a on/off switch (other than they want that sweet sweet data because many folks aren't even going to realize its phoning home to begin with)

i think because the flip of the argument is that the people would be absolutely most against it wouldn't necessarily trust them to just be completely making it invisible if you had a full Unifi setup in monitoring, so unless you were running a mirror DPI on another piece of hardware, in theory you could make it so there was a opt-out switch that just did nothing

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug
Goddamnit, I'm about ready to yank out this Cat6 and hang myself with it.

First my AC Lite worked fine, except it only linked up at 100 mbit.

Attempts two, three and four had it PoE'ing fine, booting, but not getting link at all (it appears.)

I borrowed a cheapo cable tester which seems to claim that wire 4 is always hosed, even on a brand new 1 meter cable.

What are the downsides of grabbing a 30 meter ready made cat6 patch cable, chopping off one end, pull it through conduit, and attach a female plug at the naked end?

eames
May 9, 2009

Buff Hardback posted:

i think because the flip of the argument is that the people would be absolutely most against it wouldn't necessarily trust them to just be completely making it invisible if you had a full Unifi setup in monitoring, so unless you were running a mirror DPI on another piece of hardware, in theory you could make it so there was a opt-out switch that just did nothing

Yeah. Ubiquiti now stated that they're working on an on/off option to be released in a future firmware.

Unrelated to this but worth mentioning is that DNS adblocking solutions (like pihole or scripts for various DNS servers) are becoming less useful as their popularity increases.
Many IOT devices now come with hardcoded nameserver IPs on nonstandard ports to get around this stuff. DoH (DNS over HTTPS) won't make things easier either.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

bolind posted:

Goddamnit, I'm about ready to yank out this Cat6 and hang myself with it.

First my AC Lite worked fine, except it only linked up at 100 mbit.

Attempts two, three and four had it PoE'ing fine, booting, but not getting link at all (it appears.)

I borrowed a cheapo cable tester which seems to claim that wire 4 is always hosed, even on a brand new 1 meter cable.

What are the downsides of grabbing a 30 meter ready made cat6 patch cable, chopping off one end, pull it through conduit, and attach a female plug at the naked end?

There's nothing wrong with punching down the end of a pre-made cable, but some brands will use stranded core stuff for patch cables and you usually want solid core for runs like you're describing. It'll probably still work fine and there's no reason not to try it.

bolind
Jun 19, 2005



Pillbug

eames posted:

Unrelated to this but worth mentioning is that DNS adblocking solutions (like pihole or scripts for various DNS servers) are becoming less useful as their popularity increases.
Many IOT devices now come with hardcoded nameserver IPs on nonstandard ports to get around this stuff. DoH (DNS over HTTPS) won't make things easier either.

I've also noticed ads on youtube now, even with PiHole.

EpicCodeMonkey
Feb 19, 2011

eames posted:

Yeah. Ubiquiti now stated that they're working on an on/off option to be released in a future firmware.

Unrelated to this but worth mentioning is that DNS adblocking solutions (like pihole or scripts for various DNS servers) are becoming less useful as their popularity increases.
Many IOT devices now come with hardcoded nameserver IPs on nonstandard ports to get around this stuff. DoH (DNS over HTTPS) won't make things easier either.

I have a firewall rule to redirect any port 53 traffic on my IoT subnet to my pihole, regardless of wherever it was trying to go. DoH won't help, but for now I just isolate the IoT stuff on a device-by-device/port-by-port basis so only those that actually need internet access actually get it.

KKKLIP ART
Sep 3, 2004

bolind posted:

Goddamnit, I'm about ready to yank out this Cat6 and hang myself with it.

First my AC Lite worked fine, except it only linked up at 100 mbit.

Attempts two, three and four had it PoE'ing fine, booting, but not getting link at all (it appears.)

I borrowed a cheapo cable tester which seems to claim that wire 4 is always hosed, even on a brand new 1 meter cable.

What are the downsides of grabbing a 30 meter ready made cat6 patch cable, chopping off one end, pull it through conduit, and attach a female plug at the naked end?

Just make sure that you get solid core stuff as mentioned earlier. It much if any of a price difference. I did pretty much the same thing when running an outdoor rated cat6, one end I kept the end It came with, the other I clipped and put wired into a wall plate.

Methylethylaldehyde
Oct 23, 2004

BAKA BAKA

bolind posted:

Goddamnit, I'm about ready to yank out this Cat6 and hang myself with it.

First my AC Lite worked fine, except it only linked up at 100 mbit.

Attempts two, three and four had it PoE'ing fine, booting, but not getting link at all (it appears.)

I borrowed a cheapo cable tester which seems to claim that wire 4 is always hosed, even on a brand new 1 meter cable.

What are the downsides of grabbing a 30 meter ready made cat6 patch cable, chopping off one end, pull it through conduit, and attach a female plug at the naked end?

Check to see if your crimp tool doesn't have a bent/damaged blade. Sometimes if the crimps are consistently bad, you need to just get a new tool. You can also get a punchdown tool and a pair of keystone jacks, and some 6" patch cables, and see if that works better for you.

Thanks Ants
May 21, 2004

#essereFerrari


I try and avoid crimping wherever possible. Punchdown into jacks if you're doing a lot of work, if you're only doing a few drops and don't own the tools already then use those toolless keystones rather than normal keystones with a cheap punchdown tool.

eames
May 9, 2009

Unifi released their UDM thing. Gigabit router with IDS/IPS, Controller, AP and 4 LAN ports in one device for $299. Curious timing after the recent events.

https://store.ui.com/collections/routing-switching/products/unifi-dream-machine

cage-free egghead
Mar 8, 2004
If I'm going to use my server for routing/firewall/dns/etc can I still use my Linksys EA6350 router as an AP?

Currently it goes like this:
Modem -> Router -> Switch -> Server

Would I be able to do:
Modem -> Server -> Router -> Switch

I'm looking to also split my wifi up from myself and my neighbors, as they use the same SSID as I do for everything. Best to that via VLANs or just a separate SSID?

Actuarial Fables
Jul 29, 2014

Taco Defender

cage-free egghead posted:

If I'm going to use my server for routing/firewall/dns/etc can I still use my Linksys EA6350 router as an AP?

As long as you only use the switchports on the router and turn off dhcp, yes.

cage-free egghead posted:

Would I be able to do:
Modem -> Server -> Router -> Switch

That will work. You could also do:
Modem -> Server -> Switch -> Router (as AP)

cage-free egghead posted:

I'm looking to also split my wifi up from myself and my neighbors, as they use the same SSID as I do for everything. Best to that via VLANs or just a separate SSID?

Could you clarify this a bit? Do your neighbors use your WiFi, or do they just coincidentally have the same SSID as your WiFi network?

cage-free egghead
Mar 8, 2004

Actuarial Fables posted:

Could you clarify this a bit? Do your neighbors use your WiFi, or do they just coincidentally have the same SSID as your WiFi network?

I live in a duplex and just split the bill with them. Although I am past my Spectrum promotional period so my bill is like $65/month now.

Actuarial Fables
Jul 29, 2014

Taco Defender
Do they use a separate AP, or do they also currently use the linksys router's WiFi? Just creating a separate SSID won't segregate the traffic all that much - both will dump the traffic onto the same LAN, and all your devices will still be reachable from theirs.

cage-free egghead
Mar 8, 2004

Actuarial Fables posted:

Do they use a separate AP, or do they also currently use the linksys router's WiFi? Just creating a separate SSID won't segregate the traffic all that much - both will dump the traffic onto the same LAN, and all your devices will still be reachable from theirs.

They use the same router we do, since it's centrally located and can reach the entire building. Is this something I should use VLANs for? This is unexplored territory for me.

Also looking to create an internal domain at home and have part of be accessible outside of my network. I purchased a domain name but I'm not sure how I tie it together with my network, especially with my server having Unraid+containers. Even the setup of pfsense confused me a bit so I'm trying not to make too many big decisions lest I kick 15+ devices offline.

Smythe
Oct 12, 2003
Greetings. I'm here because I'm really stupid and once again asking for free consulting.

My network topography sucks dog poo poo. It's slow as gently caress. I have a bunch of ancient poo poo tier unmanaged switches, phones between switches, etc. it's a shitshow.

before i get into the meant of it one question: my office phones have ethernet in and out. how much girth is lost in that? i dont know. i think a lot.

anyways. i have a mostly unifi setup. i service 5 desktop computer in the office, 2 "workhorse" "epic rigs" in my theatre for media playout, and a potpourri of BYOD laptops that come and go. i also serve 11 voip phones.

heres my topography, kinda, and extremely NOT to scale bcause im REALLY lazy and INCREDIBLY stupid:

office:

u can see the compies, laptops, etc. my big pile of unifi poo poo is in the middle. the wireless aps are served by ethernet. its all a big spaghetti monsters with no rhyme or reason. i want to fix this with some switches running to each client (compy/phone combo) instead of daisy chaining thru them. although I might daisy chain a bunch of phones? kuz why not? is there a why not? like who cares? i don't know!!! im asking!!

one of the lobbies:

just a wireless ap that i ran ethernet to thru the ceiling which sucked dog poo poo

theatre (the LEAST to scale):

i got my tech booth that has 2 epic rigs for playout and a laptop. then front of house which has got a compy and phone. there are a few tvs around here whcih i use for graphics and ads and poo poo you know how it goes. i got a wireless AP on both sides, one in my front of house office and another I jammed in a corner way at the back of the theatre (its much farther than depicted) and also idk what it is but there is some kind of evil electrical ghost in the theatre prob due to lights and poo poo (LOTS OF ELECTRICITY DOWN THERE!!!) that makes wifi insanely fail on the whole lower level of the bldg. like its really bad.

Here's my thing on a boring dark office drone day. WHen I have cast and crew in it can easily swell to 3 times the clients:


So here's my real question: I want to get as close to my rated speeds as possible. I want to run gigabit ethernet all around my poo poo to all my big compies. am i going to eat poo poo if i install these cheapy gigabit switches instead of staying in the unifi ecosystem?

this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3

rather than: https://store.ui.com/collections/routing-switching/products/unifi-switch-8

I don't have a super fast connection to the outside world, like 500 or something down and 50 up. somewhere around there. what i really want is full throttle within my network. i want to install a huge rig and run it headless and i want it to be as seamless as possible, even doing full bore remote desktop kuz i have to see graphics and poo poo for designing projections and all that poo poo. im also planning on adding a big rear end NAS.

anyways, thats a long post but im wondering if the cheap switches are ok lol.

thank you

e: i have 2 wifi aps unplugged rn because reasons. so theyre not reflected in the unifi diagram

Actuarial Fables
Jul 29, 2014

Taco Defender

cage-free egghead posted:

They use the same router we do, since it's centrally located and can reach the entire building. Is this something I should use VLANs for? This is unexplored territory for me.

Yes. The configuration you would ultimately end up with is to have two SSIDs, one assigned to one VLAN and the other assigned to another VLAN. You would also configure the switch and access point to allow both VLANs across the same link (called a trunk link).

I don't know the capabilities of your switch or linksys router though, so I don't know if they support VLANs or if the AP can assign VLANs to wireless networks.

quote:

Also looking to create an internal domain at home and have part of be accessible outside of my network. I purchased a domain name but I'm not sure how I tie it together with my network, especially with my server having Unraid+containers. Even the setup of pfsense confused me a bit so I'm trying not to make too many big decisions lest I kick 15+ devices offline.

This will have a bunch of steps to take, but the short of it is that you'll need to configure DNS both internally and externally, and also open up ports on the firewall.

For Internal DNS, you'll need a DNS server (I think pfsense can do this). The server will contain internal IP to FQDN pairs so that when you type in unraid.my.domain it resolves it to your Unraid's internal IP address and you go there.
For External DNS, you'll need a DNS host to put your domain on. You then either manually put in your exterrnal IP address, or use a dynamic method to automatically update it. (I use http://freedns.afraid.org/)
For opening up ports, you will be "port forwarding" and assigning ports on your firewall (pfsense) that, when they receive traffic, will forward to another IP address (the server you want to access). https://docs.netgate.com/pfsense/en/latest/nat/forwarding-ports-with-pfsense.html

Actuarial Fables
Jul 29, 2014

Taco Defender

Smythe posted:

my office phones have ethernet in and out. how much girth is lost in that?

Depends on the phones, but the older and/or cheaper phones usually are 100mbit so any computer plugged into the phone to get network access will run at that speed. The phones are essentially a 3 port switch with one of the ports internally connected to the phone guts. If you've got phones that are gigabit capable then you won't be losing any bandwidth.

Smythe posted:

So here's my real question: I want to get as close to my rated speeds as possible. I want to run gigabit ethernet all around my poo poo to all my big compies. am i going to eat poo poo if i install these cheapy gigabit switches instead of staying in the unifi ecosystem?

this: https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Ethernet-Unmanaged-Protection-GS105NA/dp/B0000BVYT3

rather than: https://store.ui.com/collections/routing-switching/products/unifi-switch-8
The cheap switches are 100% ok to use for connecting computers to your network. Your computers will still show up in the UniFi control panel, you just won't get as much info on them as if you had them plugged into a UniFi switch.

Smythe
Oct 12, 2003

Actuarial Fables posted:

Depends on the phones, but the older and/or cheaper phones usually are 100mbit so any computer plugged into the phone to get network access will run at that speed. The phones are essentially a 3 port switch with one of the ports internally connected to the phone guts. If you've got phones that are gigabit capable then you won't be losing any bandwidth.

The cheap switches are 100% ok to use for connecting computers to your network. Your computers will still show up in the UniFi control panel, you just won't get as much info on them as if you had them plugged into a UniFi switch.

g*d bless you

derk
Sep 24, 2004
I am just chiming in that I have been following this thread for a long time, I have thought about getting a UniFi Lite AP for a long time. I have run into issues with wireless networking to the lower apartment and have tried the Nighthawk R7000, and my good ol Asus RT-N16. Nothing really wowed me or performed to what I deemed acceptable.

Well, Monday I hunked down and purchased a Lite AP and it came today, got it setup so easily, had a couple hiccups connecting a pc to it downstairs, got that figured out by splitting the 5G and 2.4G spectrums into two SSID's and voila, everything is connected and running so loving smooth it is unreal. In the far back corner of the downstairs where the PC and Fire Stick reside that had poor reception before is no problem whatsoever. My Lite AP is upstairs in my living room currently and is rocking the entire house, I put everything downstairs on the 2.4G and everything is loading up so quick and smooth. The download rates obviously aren't great but that is not a necessity, the streaming of Plex and such works flawlessly everywhere downstairs now where it used to hiccup and run slow to buffer everything up. Even the library screens now load up almost instantly. This device has now wowed me and I am glad I purchased it. After reading all your testimonies and love for this product I see why.

Decairn
Dec 1, 2007

Smythe posted:

... stuff ...

You can get away with those dumb switches and be lucky, or be like me and use 1Gb switches that'd only get to 300Mb/s when chained through another switch (thanks TPLink). You have a decent number of clients, a Unifi switch to stay in the ecosystem and basically be guaranteed the throughput at the switch seems like a cheap investment to me.

Actuarial Fables
Jul 29, 2014

Taco Defender
That's pretty wild. I used to connect to a NAS through three cheap unmanaged switches and always got rated speeds, so that's why I gave my approval.

stevewm
May 10, 2005

Actuarial Fables posted:

That's pretty wild. I used to connect to a NAS through three cheap unmanaged switches and always got rated speeds, so that's why I gave my approval.

Yeah, its pretty hard to gently caress up a switch. The TPLink switches he had must have been defective, or possibly a messed up cable was involved.

A properly functioning switch should have no speed impact..

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

derk posted:

I am just chiming in that I have been following this thread for a long time, I have thought about getting a UniFi Lite AP for a long time. I have run into issues with wireless networking to the lower apartment and have tried the Nighthawk R7000, and my good ol Asus RT-N16. Nothing really wowed me or performed to what I deemed acceptable.

Well, Monday I hunked down and purchased a Lite AP and it came today, got it setup so easily, had a couple hiccups connecting a pc to it downstairs, got that figured out by splitting the 5G and 2.4G spectrums into two SSID's and voila, everything is connected and running so loving smooth it is unreal. In the far back corner of the downstairs where the PC and Fire Stick reside that had poor reception before is no problem whatsoever. My Lite AP is upstairs in my living room currently and is rocking the entire house, I put everything downstairs on the 2.4G and everything is loading up so quick and smooth. The download rates obviously aren't great but that is not a necessity, the streaming of Plex and such works flawlessly everywhere downstairs now where it used to hiccup and run slow to buffer everything up. Even the library screens now load up almost instantly. This device has now wowed me and I am glad I purchased it. After reading all your testimonies and love for this product I see why.

:toot: a thread success story. I was also a holdout and now I regret the year+ of lovely speeds on my failing Asus router.



If you have any kind of reasonable budget I would not split this hair. Yes it's 110% more expensive but you're looking at $60 in absolute terms. Larger SMB netgears should be fine, but why not spend the extra grand and get a switch that gets you all the features you need out of the gate? Heck, check ebay for a used Juniper EX2300-48P. All ports POE (no more warts for your phones or APs), can tag a phone vlan (which your phone can autoconfigure off of with LLDP) etc?

Decairn
Dec 1, 2007

stevewm posted:

Yeah, its pretty hard to gently caress up a switch. The TPLink switches he had must have been defective, or possibly a messed up cable was involved.

A properly functioning switch should have no speed impact..

It was a TL-SG108. Did factory reset, back to basics etc and it was poor but only when chained to main Unifi switch. I replaced it with an in-wall Unifi 4 port plus WiFi thing and magically everything was 1Gb/s again. Only the switch was changed, everything else the same. /shrug. I didn't need an excuse to spend more money but there you go.

Sininu
Jan 8, 2014

Is the TP-Link Archer C50 AC1200 just newer, better TP-LINK Archer C5 that's discontinued?

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Please let me know if this is a little outside this thread's lane! It crosses a few topics but might be more of a basic networking question. .

Based on some of the helpful advice in this thread, I overhauled my home network last weekend with an EdgeRouter X and Unifi AP AC Pro, and reconfigured my NAS to run Pi-Hole as a Docker container so I could ditch my Raspberry Pi. Everything functions well, but for some reason I can only access Pi-Hole through its IP and not its hostname. Could anyone explain what the issue might be?

I set up macvlan in Portainer to match the subnet on my router:



Then set a static IP and hostname for the container:



And confirmed the setting in Pi-Hole:

FunOne
Aug 20, 2000
I am a slimey vat of concentrated stupidity

Fun Shoe
You might try also setting a domain name? Maybe it needs both for some reason.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Have you set the pihole as your resolver on your client (computer)?

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

H110Hawk posted:

Have you set the pihole as your resolver on your client (computer)?

I set it on the router. It's catching the DNS requests just fine.

FunOne posted:

You might try also setting a domain name? Maybe it needs both for some reason.

This did the trick! I wonder why? Thank you!

cage-free egghead
Mar 8, 2004
I was gifted a USB3 external HDD but I can't shuck it and throw it into my server because it only takes 2.5" drives. I'm using Unraid on my server but not sure what the best way to incorporate this drive because the server doesn't support USB3. Any ideas?

SnatchRabbit
Feb 23, 2006

by sebmojo
I have a xfinity x1 WiFi router in my house and I now have a smart tv in my garage about 20-30 feet behind the house, I get intermittent signal to the tv so I’m looking for some kind of WiFi extender to improve reliability. Can anyone recommend a good one for under $100? Are the xfinity xpods any good?

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE
So I think my trusty Asus RT-N66U that I bought back in 2013 or so is dying. I'm getting more and more connection issues where client devices can see the wifi network but can't connect to it. Had intermittent issues in the past but over the past few days it's been happening a lot. The issue goes away with time and/or with a router reboot. Also seems to only happen during the day, which makes me think it might be heat related, since the past few days has seen the beginning of Summerish weather (mid 30s C). Nights are still cold however (under 20) and the issue never seems to happen at night. It's only going to get worse from here I assume - in another month or so I'd expect nighttime temps to stay around 30.

So, I'm looking to purchase a new wifi router. I'm really not sure what sort of specs I actually need though - My budget is pretty flexible, and I'm not one to cheap out on stuff; but I also don't believe in flushing money down the toilet on stuff that has absolutely no benefit.

Options I was looking at:

Asus RT-AC58U - $115
Asus RT-AC68U - $189 (currently on sale, normally $245)
Asus Blue Cave - $269

So, some background on the house and internet usage:

The house is a moderately sized, roughly square 2 story house. The router is in one corner of my Dad's bedroom which is roughly in the centre of the upstairs floor. The house is very old fashioned and all of the internal walls are solid brick approximately 1' thick. For reference, I'm reasonably happy with the wifi reception of the old router. It's touchy in some places downstairs - the back yard/patio and the laundry which is in one corner about as far from the router as you can get - but it's mostly fine. My PC is the most important device and it's about 10 feet from the router with 1 wall separating us. Given I'm pretty happy with my current reception around the house, I don't think I need a mesh setup?

My dad and I each have a PC, an ipad and an iphone. Typically we'll both be online at once, and I'm often browsing the web/playing hearthstone while also streaming netflix and some such. We regularly have a relative staying with us from interstate, and when she's here there's another ipad, laptop and iphone on the network. She tends to watch a lot of streaming media as well and I do notice speed issues when the three of us are online, but not sure if the limitation is our internet connection or the router.

Internet connection is fibre to the home, with the router plugged into the ONT. Speed is 30/1. We never move files between our PCs or access each other's PCs over the wifi network. We don't use any network based storage. I assume this means that there is no benefit to buying a router with a faster speed? IE AC 2600, AC1900 etc? since any speed is well in excess of the internet speed?

I don't need parental controls, or much in the way of advanced settings and whatnot I don't think, although I do place a high value on security, reliable updates, that sort of thing.

My dad's bedroom gets pretty hot. It doesn't have aircon or external windows. I don't know how much variation there is across brands/models when it comes to hot temperature operation. Also given it will be placed in a bedroom I can't have something that goes crazy with leds and poo poo, although I can mitigate to some extent with tape if I have to.

I strongly prefer to buy in person from one of my local stores, that means something that I can get from umart.com.au (preferred) or computeralliance.com.au

I won't buy a TP-Link product under any circumstances.

The Lord Bude fucked around with this message at 10:45 on Nov 10, 2019

derk
Sep 24, 2004

SnatchRabbit posted:

I have a xfinity x1 WiFi router in my house and I now have a smart tv in my garage about 20-30 feet behind the house, I get intermittent signal to the tv so I’m looking for some kind of WiFi extender to improve reliability. Can anyone recommend a good one for under $100? Are the xfinity xpods any good?

https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Ap-AC-Lite-UAPACLITEUS/dp/B015PR20GY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=UNIFI+AC+LITE&qid=1573502758&sr=8-1

Put as close to exterior wall by garage as you can, does about 400 feet of range. you won't be disappointed, this is referred to in main post in this thread!

teagone
Jun 10, 2003

That was pretty intense, huh?

The Lord Bude posted:

I won't buy a TP-Link product under any circumstances.

Why?

The Lord Bude
May 23, 2007

ASK ME ABOUT MY SHITTY, BOUGIE INTERIOR DECORATING ADVICE

For the same reason I’d never buy a Huawei or ZTE phone. China is a hostile dictatorship with a long history of cyber warfare; and I would never buy a tech product from a Chinese owned company.

EngineerJoe
Aug 8, 2004
-=whore=-



Does anyone know if the Dream Machine is more powerful than the USG? The USG apparently tops out at 60mbps if you turn on certain features that disable hardware acceleration. Is this the same for the Dream Machine?

eames
May 9, 2009

EngineerJoe posted:

Does anyone know if the Dream Machine is more powerful than the USG? The USG apparently tops out at 60mbps if you turn on certain features that disable hardware acceleration. Is this the same for the Dream Machine?

The DM has a much, much faster processor (quadcore 1,7 GHz vs dualcore 0,5 GHz). It’ll do close to a gigabit with IDS and IPS.
The performance gap is gigantic and one can only hope that the USG gets updated at some point.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Rooted Vegetable
Jun 1, 2002

eames posted:

The DM has a much, much faster processor (quadcore 1,7 GHz vs dualcore 0,5 GHz). It’ll do close to a gigabit with IDS and IPS.
The performance gap is gigantic and one can only hope that the USG gets updated at some point.

That's a beautiful machine to lock the the cupboard.

Reading it, aside from the $299 price tag that felt like a bit of a sting, I was wondering if it was a good way of getting UniFi benefits with "I don't give a gently caress and want it to work when I don't want to CJ" when I'm in that sort of mood after work. Only small desire would be PoE on the LAN ports... which honestly I think I can ask for at that price.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply