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Dagen H posted:--Me, during my first sexual encounter Okay so now the drain plug is a sex toy? WTF man
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Nov 13, 2019 15:50
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Rhyno posted:Okay so now the drain plug is a sex toy? WTF man
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Nov 13, 2019 17:06
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I removed and re-sealed the windscreen on my landrover on sunday because the sealant had gone hard and water was coming through. checked it for leaks on monday night and it was looking good. Went out there today and got into the truck and noticed that the screen has cracked  I've broken a screen when refitting it before but never seen one crack on its own 2 days later. bastard.I also however drove 35 miles in it today AND DIDNT BREAK DOWN! which was nice
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Nov 13, 2019 17:53
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So I looked at the glitter in the oil drain pan again. It's not metal. It's... almost like sand and sludge?  Something that shouldn't be in the engine either way. It LOOKS a lot like metal, but it isn't.Replaced the RF axle. That... was a lot more work than it should have been. Everything came apart easily enough, except the axle didn't want to come out of the hub. Sledgehammer? It laughed. Air chisel? It shrugged and took a nap. Unbolted the knuckle and slapped it into a 20 ton press. It hit the snooze button and went back to sleep. Finally got it free with a lot of heat and the press.  Shop owner said it's the first time he's ever had a half shaft not pop out from the air chisel. I fully expect the bearing to be hosed from the heat and hammering and also expect it to put up just as much of a fight to remove, so I'm just going to grab a knuckle from the junkyard in the next few days. (this was at a DIY shop, but the owner will jump in and help out if you're stuck.. usually for a fee, he didn't charge me the extra fee because he was even more hellbent on getting the drat thing separated than I was) Inner CV properly hosed, as expected. The grease wasn't even grease anymore, it was all solidified.  Still vibrating pretty good under acceleration, but no more popping/clicking/rattling. Driver's side axle looks original, but no real play in it, no torn boots. So I guess now I'm suspecting the front drive shaft (I put in the FWD fuse to test this theory; it does one wheel peels all the way through 1st now, with the same vibration). LKQ just got an 04 OBW 2.5/auto in (looks like it was totaled from vandalism), I may go try and grab the front driveshaft. Definitely need to grab the knuckle from it. I may grab both knuckles, since I suspect the other front halfshaft will put up just as much of a fight if I try to replace it. It needs an alignment now anyway, so I'm in it for the long haul.  e: I know the motor mounts are pretty well toasted, but those won't cause the whole car to vibrate under throttle, will they? No misfire codes (no codes at all), and the engine doesn't feel/sound like it's missing. Averaging about 18 mpg, which is right on par for city driving on these.
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Nov 14, 2019 04:21
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Today I saw that the tachometer likes to dance at stop lights. Baby's first rough idle diagnosis coming.
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Nov 14, 2019 04:26
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, granted I'm a drat hack but: Seals were too hosed and I couldn't wait 7 days for standard shipping or feel good about paying $45 for RA to ship a kit in 2 days, so I ended up going with new calipers. Crazy how quickly and how aggressively the brakes bite when you have brand new everything, front and back. As opposed to having a single half functional caliper on a thin rotor with glazed pads, and drums that are basically metal on metal* I wish she would tell me when things are getting bad instead of just when things are so bad that they're dangerous *The missus lent her mother the car for a couple weeks, I dropped the car off and of course used the hand brake when I parked it. Her mother drove at least 100 miles with the hand brake on 
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Nov 14, 2019 05:11
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I've done brakes for people only for them to later complain that the brakes are now "too good."
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Nov 14, 2019 05:18
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You Am I posted:I love the fact they still run factory split rims They’ve FINALLY gone away from the old death rims and gone to a solid tubeless rim. It’s still a 16x6” rim, but you don’t have to worry bout being killed by it changing a tyre now! They also run the DUMBEST tyre size from factory- 225/95R16. With a V8 turbo diesel in front of it. It’s basically a factory spec burnout machine!
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Nov 14, 2019 11:15
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Its time for the annual Taxation Office Funded 4wd upgrade party! Theres a few things i've been meaning to do on the Landcruiser for a while now. I finally got sick of my stereo from 2004 because it lacked ANY feature other than an Aux input and a USB, No bluetooth, No carplay support, nothing. That and Its starting to get hard to see whats behind me when its full of gear in the back and with the two wheels hanging on the rear carrier. Plus Im also upgrading my second battery system and investing into solar to keep my beer cold when im doing extended camping stops. So the first thing we tackled was the dual battery system. The turbo diesel 100 series came from factory with two N50 batteries wired in parallel under the bonnet for cranking in cold weather. Its not needed in Aus, so most people simply split them, upgrade them to N70 sized batteries and use one as an aux and one as a crank- Which is what ive done. Currently theres an Optima D27F Yellow Top as the crank battery, and a 105AH powersonic AGM for the secondaries. Up until now i've only used a standard voltage sensitive relay from Redarc, but that wont get you a complete charge in an AGM, plus with wanting to put solar onto it, i needed an MPPT controller to maximise the imput from the panels so that lead me to one thing- a DC/DC charger. They take the imput from your alternator and crank battery and then behave like a multi stage mains charger to completely charge a battery to 100% capacity. For this I went for a Redarc BCDC1240D. Its a 40A rated, Dual input DC/DC charging unit. Took a bit of finangling, but we made a bracket for it out in the grille area for cooling and wired it all up. Theres an anderson plug on the bullbar for the solar input so its nice and convinient to plug in the solar. Picked it and a fuse kit up from the 4wd show on special for about $600  Speaking of solar, I decided that since solar technology is advancing at such a rapid rate, there wasnt alot of sense in spending $1-2K on a big name brand solar blanket. Sure, they might last 10 years vs 5 for the cheaper one, but who knows how good solar tech will be in another 5 years, let alone 10. So I went for a 200W Adventure Kings solar blanket. At $250 delivered to my door, I can buy two of these, have 400w of panels and still be half the price of a 150w entry level Redarc blanket.  I built a frame out of sticks and zipties to angle it to the sun properly when i was up the Flinders a few months ago. And the last piece of the puzzle for the dual battery works was a battery gauge. I found a Projecta unit for $230 that uses a massive shunt on the negative line to your battery to measure current flow. Bit more wiring work and some bracket making and I had it all fitted in on the rear drawer unit.   So with all that sorted, It was time to turn my attention to the suspension. The springs and torsion bars arent fine, but the shocks were stuffed. So, $1600 later I have 4 Superior Engineering remote res adjustable monotube shocks fitted to the truck. They're manufactured by Profender to Superiors specs and im REALLY happy with them so far.  Next was the stereo. I went from an old single DIN Pioneer stereo from around 2005 with an Icom IC400 pro UHF radio hanging under it to a Kenwood DMX8019DABS double DIN unit and a new Icom IC450 remote head radio. First step was to completely dismantle the dashboard. The new stereo requires SOOO many more inputs than the old one- Theres the standard power, acc trigger, ground and all that, then theres also a reverse signal, a vehicle speed sense signal, a handbrake signal, a DAB antenna to install, a GPS unit to install, a Microphone to install.... and wiring for a reverse camera to run. It was a spaghetti nightmare.  Looks good tho!  The next morning, after I rescued the cat (She jumped up on the bonnet and walked the length of the car before she realised it was too far to jump down from the rear tyre carrier and she needed a lift) I finished off running wires and installing the new UHF radio   I now have wireless apple car play and digital radio. However I now no longer have access to my 120GB iPod Classic. Which sucks. The last bit of work to do on the stereo install was the reverse camera. I found a spot that actually works on the back of the truck between the rear wheels and the towbar, cut a hole and mounted it into the rear bar. Now i can see whats behind me AND the towbar!   But that left the biggest pain in the arse job. I had to pull the entire drawer unit out to get to a bung in the bodywork to pass the reverse camera cable through.  They're a cavernous vehicle once you pull all the drawers and fridges and poo poo out of them! But a little bit of work later and Success! I have rear vision!  Thats going to make hooking up a trailer easy! Theres one last thing to do, but it involves these boxes and me going to see the powder coaters first. 
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Nov 16, 2019 07:00
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Does the stereo not have a 3.5mm aux input? If it does, why not run your iPod off of that? I know you lose whatever integration you had with the old stereo and have to use the iPod itself to change songs, but I can't think of a stereo that's had iPod support in yearrrrrrs. Or, it has rear USB ports, right? My ~1 year old single DIN Kenwood has 2 of them, them with a decent length cord on them (close to 1 meter if I had to guess), which gives enough room to leave the end of one sticking out from under the center console on my car, or tuck it up into the glove box. Slap a 128GB thumb drive into it with MP3s and album art, and you've replaced your iPod. Nice upgrade!
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Nov 16, 2019 19:08
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Had to replace PCV valve on my 2010 Toyota Corolla this weekend. If it was the 1ZRFE engine, would've taken about 10 minutes. Pull a hose off, unscrew the PCV valve using a 22mm deep socket, screw in the new valve, replace the hose and PRESTO! Unfortunately, my Corolla has the 2ZRFE engine. I had to take off the whole goddamn intake manifold to get to there the PCV valve is located (directly on the engine block.) Why Toyota put it there is BEYOND me. When I replaced it, and put everything back together, car fired up, but was revving crazily. Hooked up my $40 diagnostic tool and it was saying "Throttle Position Sensor/Switch 'A' Circuit High Input." I uh...forgot to plug in the throttle body. Whoops. After plugging that back in, no problems. PCV valves supposedly last 100k miles, so I unless this car hits 220k miles, I'll probably never have do that that again.
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Nov 18, 2019 17:10
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You should look up how to replace it on a Nissan KA24DE. In particular, the FWD version (93-01 Altima). Step 1: remove intake manifold. Step 2, if I remember right: remove power steering pump (which is wedged under the intake, right up against the strut tower.. it does not come out without a fight; at least 2 motor mounts come off, and the engine has to be lifted considerably). Then again, the FSM also said that the intake had to come off to replace the knock sensor, and that it was something like a 6 hour job. If you have skinny arms, you can get at it (by feel) from below; I think I had it done in 45 minutes. But the PCV valve was considerably higher and off to the side.
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Nov 18, 2019 17:44
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Yikes, that Altima PCV job sounds like a loving nightmare. I wouldn't even try that one; I'd just take it to my mechanic. At least doing the PCV valve gave me the excuse to try out my new (baby's first) torque wrench! So, that part was fun. edit: typo betterinsodapop fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Nov 18, 2019 |
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Nov 18, 2019 18:18
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That's exactly why I just dealt with it having a stuck PCV valve.  The hose tends to crack when you disturb it too. So it's a whole box of "gently caress THAT".At least it actually had a PCV valve; my last 2 cars had it built into the valve cover. So if it fails, you get to go to the dealer and buy a new valve cover. Oh wait, what's that? It's too old to get an OEM valve cover for? Well, let's check Rockauto.. well poo poo, there's not much of an aftermarket either. You basically had to clean the gently caress out of it and hope the spring wasn't broken if it ever acted up. I need to find the PCV valve on my current car; I'm pretty sure it's never been touched.
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Nov 18, 2019 18:53
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Been looking around for a drive train for the 57 210. I think I've found a local Express 3500 van that doesn't have a billion miles on it. If I can get it for under $1750, I'm going to pick it up. I'll rip the 6.0L and trans out of, and maybe find a use for some other parts. It's cheaper than buying the parts separately.
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Nov 18, 2019 20:19
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For a donor engine, if it's going into a chassis it didn't originally come in, then yeah, it's usually cheaper to buy a donor vehicle. And that way you get all of the wiring, modules, etc... and can part the rest of it out to make some money, if you have the room. For a cargo van, those fuckers still have a decent amount of electronics on them. Even the fuel pump has its own computer on later models.  The PCM is already coded for pretty bare-bones operation on them, so you don't need a whole lot of coding to make it run stand-alone as just a PCM/TCM.
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Nov 18, 2019 20:33
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STR posted:For a donor engine, if it's going into a chassis it didn't originally come in, then yeah, it's usually cheaper to buy a donor vehicle. And that way you get all of the wiring, modules, etc... and can part the rest of it out to make some money, if you have the room. I'm hoping to get it and get it ripped out before the weather goes to poo poo, then I can teardown the block and rebuild it in the garage while it's cold and nasty, and be prepared to get it in together and running in the spring. I'm looking at getting the Holley Terminator X Max with transmission control. That way I have tuning and diagnostic available. EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Nov 18, 2019 |
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Nov 18, 2019 20:38
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Bonus is you can store poo poo in your new mobile shed.
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Nov 19, 2019 00:14
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I might have hit peak cheekiness. Possibly a step over, but the inner fender well is a massive space.   235/75r15(lincoln stock) vs 255/70r18(Jeep stock)  As long as they don't rub on the lip, they should be fine. I have to get the spacers hogged out to fit the Lincoln hub before i know for sure, but they should fit.  What's in a few inches?
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Nov 19, 2019 01:13
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Oh gently caress yes 
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Nov 19, 2019 01:14
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Powershift posted:I might have hit peak cheekiness. Possibly a step over, but the inner fender well is a massive space. The outer fender is what tore up our Grabbers on the Town Car. Rears were fine but the fronts would rub on the trim at even partial lock unless you only had one person in the front seats.
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Nov 19, 2019 02:01
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Seat Safety Switch posted:The outer fender is what tore up our Grabbers on the Town Car. Rears were fine but the fronts would rub on the trim at even partial lock unless you only had one person in the front seats. Yeah, i remember that. I've got +44 offset wheels and 1.5 inch spacers. so the outer face should only sit 1/4 of an inch further out, I'll lose a couple degrees of full lock because the 29s rubbed the frame a little but there's really nothing for them to rub other than possibly that outer lip. Worst case scenario, the hammer shows up. or spring spacers? the tire size gives me a 1.5 inch lift, another 1.5 inch spring spacer and i might be able to clear curbs. I love the look of these wheels though, they're far too modern for the car, but i think the old' strip and polish will make them look right. Every aftermarket 5 on 5 wheel has fake beadlocks because they're for jeeps and brotrucks. rockets and centerlines are way out of my budget. I fully expect them to be polarizing but i love them. Sorry for the crappy pic but my garage is still full of stuff. 
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Nov 19, 2019 02:54
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Spring spacers are extremely cheap and I would say the only thing cooler than an old Lincoln with all-terrains is a gasser Lincoln with all-terrains.
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Nov 19, 2019 03:18
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Speaking of fat buddies, my friend Phil is 6’4” and probably 300lb. He tried getting in the S2000 last night and this is as far as he got. It was at least mildly amusing as you can tel from my moronic smirk. 
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Nov 20, 2019 23:53
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Obesity epidemic causes CUVs, sad
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Nov 21, 2019 00:04
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I'm 6'2", and was about 290 at the time I tried on an Alfa 4C. I got in, but there was no way I could drive the thing except maybe in an emergency, even though it was an automatic. My knees were trapped between the dash and steering wheel, and I was primarily looking at the sunvisor. Managed to get out, too, but it was in no way graceful. edit: I'm proud to say I'm down to 265 now, and should be able to keep going, but I couldn't drive that tiny thing no matter how much weight I los, unless most of it was part of my legs and torso.
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Nov 21, 2019 00:23
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I glued the defroster pad back onto my rear glass. Result:  Edit: fixed wrong picture. This was last night's dinner. 
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Nov 22, 2019 01:24
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Short on media, but got some hella work done on a couple cars the past couple weeks. First, some mechanical carnage some of you may have seen from the Failures thread These are all from my Dad's 2005 Nissan Titan. He heard "A Noise" doing 85mph on the interstate, decided to pull over and call me. I had it towed to my house for diagnostics and evaluation, and upon driving it around the block concluded the back left wheel bearing was the source of the noise. Boy oh boy was I right. As soon as I unbolted the bearing retainer the axle dropped a quarter inch, at which point I knew poo poo was absolutely turbofucked.  This is the axle, with the inner race stuck on the shaft. The lumpy bit is tapered roller bearings welded to the inner race.  This is what I saw when I got the shaft out. Powdered metal and roller bearing chunks g(al)ore.  The largest remaining piece of the bearing cage was a little farther down the axle tube.  A pan of all the poo poo I pulled out of the axle tube. Truly fuckin' gnarly. So what we (I) think happened: the diff breather got clogged up, and due to the way my Dad drives while on a route, the pressure buildup due to heat in the axle pushed all the lubricant out of the bearings through the axle seals. Evidence for this: bearing grease outside the seal on the right side as well, along with some seepage at the diff cover. The left bearing just happened to catastrophically fail first, which allowed the axle to move around a lot more freely. The ABS wheel subsequently chewed up the ABS sensor and one of the parking brake drum springs, as well as flinging axle oil all over the inside of the drum and wheel (ruining the brake shoes and pads of course). Losing the parking brake spring unlocked the brake shoes, meaning it got even hotter in there, hot enough that the circlip on the bearing spacer had been detempered and had no spring left in it at all. It was at this point it started making noise that my deaf old man could finally hear. I had my local shop guy install a new bearing and seal on both axleshafts. Also installed new parking brake shoes and disc brake pads, as once you get any appreciable amount of grease on brake pads, they're smoked. The install went well except for when I was installing the left axle; I'd gotten everything bolted down and was about to start installing parking brake hardware when my Dad picked up the circlip for the bearing spacer off of the tailgate  Cue a lot of cursing and moaning from me. Luckily the freshly installed shaft popped right back out without a fight and I installed the circlip. I also installed the backing plate backwards... Nissan in their wisdom designed it so it was just barely possible to get the fucker off without pulling the shaft, but only just barely. I had to fiddle with it for a good fifteen minutes to get it done, but it got done. I had the tinsnips waiting just in case though.Since grease had been pushed out of the axle bearings, I figured I should also check the pinion bearing. Upon which I discovered the source of another "clunking" noise Dad had complained about. I sent him this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eujDrTSzIwQ Turns out the driveshaft flange bolts had worked loose... again. I had snugged these up a few years back in the parking lot at the office. Don't remember if I had Permatex Blue on them at the time or not, but I gooped the poo poo out of them this time. You can also see the weeping diff cover.  Filled it up with diff fluid... without a fluid pump... at 50°F/10°C... only took an hour to pour 2L  (I bought a fluid pump on Amazon while I was waiting).https://i.imgur.com/ZgbDDF3.mp4 So... slooowwwww... Got her all buttoned up and took her for a test drive. No shakes, rattles, or moans (much like my sex life  ). However, when I got back to the house I nearly poo poo a brick thinking I'd left a drain plug out and just wasted half an $80 bottle of gear oil Oh... wait... the truck had her rear end-end up in the air for a week. Rain in the truckbed The last two pictures feature a glimpse of our next victim, the 2000 Honda CR-V. AWD, 5-speed. I know, right? Be jealous. My ball joints recently started to remind me of a bricknose Ford, so I knew I needed to get it done. Went ahead and ordered all four needed on the front. Honda only sells the complete upper control arm with the joint already pressed in, but Moog sells a replacement, I have a small 6-ton Harbor Freight Press, and Advance has a pretty kickass loaner Master Ball Joint Tool Kit. However, it's still missing the Honda specific half-moon receiver tube you really need to press the lower ball joints out. A 2lb sledge and the proper adapter will also suffice for the extraction process. I'm also missing a stud on the front right corner, and you can't install a new one without pulling the hub and destroying the wheel bearing, so I was going to basically rebuild the entire knuckle while I had them out. Except I forgot to order wheel bearings. Commence again. At least I didn't yank the hubs before realizing I didn't have them.The only picture I took of the mess:  We don't answer questions about the Bimmer  Both lower joints went smoothly once I gave up on pressing them out and just whacked the poo poo out of them. Pressing them in was much easier. The upper left control arm comes out with two bolts that are fairly easily accessible, and I was able to use cups from the toolkit and my press to remove and install it. I thought that I would have just as easy a time with the right side. loving NOPE (because of course not) The forward bolt is no problem, but the rear... it's just under the battery tray. Which is of course just about rusted to hell and gone. I air-blasted most of the powder away and took one look at the bolts and realized that if I started in on that mess it would only end in tears and me taking the motorcycle to work. So I made do with my Gearwrench spanners and some creative swearing. Only the bolt wouldn't come all the way out so I had to remove/install the loving balljoint with the arm still in the car anyway. WHEEE! It got done though. Also, the inner CV boot on the passenger side was already weeping, and I ripped it all the way while pulling the knuckle, so I had to disconnect the strut and pull the axle. I'd never done a reboot before, holy mother of god what a loving mess that was. Girlfriend was pissed I was washing out the bearings and cup in the kitchen sink too  but uh, don't have a parts washer or a big enough bucket and the directions specifically said "warm soapy water" and the temp was down to 40°F/5°C so gently caress doing that poo poo outside.Of course, it's never just "one thing"; the week after the ball joint started squeaking, I started getting a stutter between 2k-3k RPM. Well, I haven't done an ignition set since I bought the car in January, and the whole shebang (cap/rotor/wires/plugs) only comes to $120, so why not just do the whole mess and forget about it for 30,000 miles? So I did that too. Rotor and cap looked crusty as poo poo, so that was likely the problem. The rotor was some aftermarket unit without the stock set screw, so I had to install the OEM Honda unit without it. I'll just have to pick one up at the dealer. The valve cover spark plug seals are weeping a tiny bit, so I guess next time I get the inclination to do some non-essential work I'll do a valve cover gasket too. I had ordered a clutch master and slave cylinder due to a minor leak in the master (more on that when I do the job), but the front suspension job pretty much burned all of the last two days. Another time, another post. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Nov 22, 2019 |
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Nov 22, 2019 14:09
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Beach Bum posted:Turns out the driveshaft flange bolts had worked loose... again. I had snugged these up a few years back in the parking lot at the office. Don't remember if I had Permatex Blue on them at the time or not, but I gooped the poo poo out of them this time.  to Queen Combat: hit up Amazon for some Nord-Lock washers.
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Nov 22, 2019 14:28
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Got a text from Row52 Thanksgiving morning. The next day I rushed over and raided this guy: Today I put on the fender and compressor I got from that. Changed the thermostat which was in the same area by coincidence and replaced coolant with AISIN pink. Sanded down the junkyard headlight but haven't put it on yet. Earlier I was measuring engine temp at 85-86C, short check on the drive home now reading 75-77C. I'm pleased.
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Dec 1, 2019 07:09
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got my mr2 back on the road gently caress you old shift cable i hope you burn in poo poo next up: replacing the e-brake cables, replacing all the suspension bushings, and going to a thicker front and rear sway bar.
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Dec 1, 2019 10:41
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Good news: bad ABS speed sensor was easily spotted (broken wire) and even on the first wheel I pulled. Bad news: sheared off the loving bolt holding the sensor end into place and broke off the sensor head in the hub  Already drilled out the bolt so I'll just re-tap and spin in a new one. New sensor ordered along with front pads and rotors. Pads are getting thin so I figure I'll just do the whole drat thing next weekend. Getting the rotor off should give me a little more room to work the old sensor out, too.
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Dec 1, 2019 21:04
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I replaced a battery then reset a clock. I am all that is man.
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Dec 1, 2019 22:35
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Did engine oil plus filter and trans fluid in wife's car. Brake bleeder adapter was the wrong one, so I'll rotate the tires and change the serpentine belt when the correct adapter gets delivered. I had to pierce the filter with a screwdriver to spin the loving thing off, so I'll take advice for a oil filter wrench that isn't poo poo.
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Dec 2, 2019 00:44
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Don't put it on so tight next time.  Depends on car and filter since they come in a bunch of different sizes, but I like about any one that you can put a ratchet on. Assuming you have clearance to do so.
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Dec 2, 2019 02:44
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Minto Took posted:I'll take advice for a oil filter wrench that isn't poo poo. Haven’t failed me yet. Also works for compressing caliper pistons. 
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Dec 2, 2019 02:48
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The end-grabbing ones with a 3/8 drive are great for a lot of the rear/high mounted/firewall facing filters. https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools-Adjustable-Filter-Removing/dp/B01BS5B3ZQ/ The filter specific pliers aren't really worth it, but the steel strap style wrenches definitely are.
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Dec 2, 2019 03:30
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We put a JDM EJ203 into my '05 Saab 9-2X to replace the rod-knockin' EJ253 in it. Most money I've ever spent to lose 20 horsepower. Same ECU, just with the 253 intake manifold riding atop the 203 block. Slung Blade and NumbersMatching320i did most of the heavy lifting and I held tools, brapped bolts, swapped intake manifold gubbins, and held the plan in my head. We noticed the oil pan was a little dinged only after installing the engine, and my old lower rad hose is probably leaking again, so we haven't seen the end of this job, but boy does it like to rev more now. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Dec 2, 2019 |
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Dec 2, 2019 06:05
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glyph posted:Haven’t failed me yet. Also works for compressing caliper pistons. Yep, me too when I have clearance. Used the screwdriver method once. Worked, but if it goes bad egads (meaning tearing it apart).
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Dec 2, 2019 16:38
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C-Bangin' it
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yep, me too when I have clearance. Ha! Same. I justified the expense of my comically large channel locks when the screwdriver method went south and then I suddenly couldn’t drive my car to the stores and had to borrow a car to get it done. I haven’t needed them since- I’ve since taken to doing the oil changes for the fleet, my parents included, so I can’t speak to clearance problems, but I’m sure they’re too big to fit in everything. They’re drat useful for the large threaded pvc fittings for my pool pump as well.
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Dec 2, 2019 19:08
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