|
FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:So I started climbing in the local gym two weeks ago and really like it, however after about forty-five to one hour of climbing my right elbow starts to get tight and maybe has a dull pain? It usually goes away after an hour of not climbing, anyone knows what it is and how to prevent it? I've incorporated a stretch beforehand where I turn my hand upside down and flex the fingers backward as I heard it could help, but any other help would be appreciated. The only other time I had this problem was when I used to do military presses and fixed it by positioning my hands a bit differently on the bar. This also happens if I have my arm stretched out under my partners pillows while I sleep so I think its a tendon thing. - stretch your elbow flexors and extensors regularly - make sure you're strength training your antagonist muscles as well: forearm extensors, triceps, shoulders, chest - foam roll your upper body muscles every week or so
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2019 18:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 16:27 |
|
|
FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:So I started climbing in the local gym two weeks ago and really like it, however after about forty-five to one hour of climbing my right elbow starts to get tight and maybe has a dull pain? It usually goes away after an hour of not climbing, anyone knows what it is and how to prevent it? I've incorporated a stretch beforehand where I turn my hand upside down and flex the fingers backward as I heard it could help, but any other help would be appreciated. The only other time I had this problem was when I used to do military presses and fixed it by positioning my hands a bit differently on the bar. This also happens if I have my arm stretched out under my partners pillows while I sleep so I think its a tendon thing. Is it on the inside of your elbow or the outside? If it's on the inside, I suggest buying a flex bar and trying the exercises that are suggested with the flex bar. The exercise that triggers discomfort or slight pain will indicate that's the exercise that will yield results if done consistently, to strengthen the tendon that needs it. If it's on the outside, the flex bar can still help, but it's a good idea to also include forearm antagonist training, such as reverse wrist curls, reverse curls, isometric reverse wrist curls, wide grip dumbbell hangs (I can't remember the name of this specific exercise right now).
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2019 18:59
|
|
|
Jester Mcgee posted:Those look amazing. I'm out there all the time looking wistfully at the cracks, because I don't know how to trad climb. This was my first go at it. I did build top rope anchors with gear for a couple years so I have a little experience placing pieces but I'd never lead a trad route before getting on Shock and Awe. Thankfully I have been watching sales for awhile so I had a big enough rack I never had to stress about saving pieces or running out of a certain size.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2019 23:54
|
|
|
Jester Mcgee posted:Those look amazing. I'm out there all the time looking wistfully at the cracks, because I don't know how to trad climb. Learn it. Go on. With cracks like that there's no better opportunity. Trad skills make you like the flying DeLorean at the end of Back to the Future. Bolts? Where we're going, we don't need bolts.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2019 20:59
|
|
|
Nope, just cams, and stoppers, and offset cams, and offset stoppers, and flexible-stem cams, and tricams, and hexes, and Big Bros, and slings, and carabiners, and webbing, and more slings, and more carabiners, and
Meaty Ore fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Oct 24, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2019 02:16
|
|
|
Meaty Ore posted:Nope, just cams, and stoppers, and offset cams, and offset stoppers, and flexible-stem cams, and tricams, and hexes, and Big Bros, and slings, and carabiners, and webbing, and more slings, and more carabiners, and Yeah, I get that. I think that articles like this https://mojagear.com/learn/2014/05/16/how-to-build-first-rock-climbing-trad-rack/ overstate it though. Objectively very hard routes were put up by people carrying 1 moac and a couple of slings. Not to say that's a realistic goal- those people were exceptional and lots of them died anyway. For mere mortals though, it is possible to take it paycheck by paycheck if you pick short, forgiving routes at first. Here's what I did more or less: Sport climb first. You'll accumulate some quick draws, rope, screwgates, a sling or two and a boat load of skill. Acquire wires. Plenty of routes go on wire protection alone, especially limestone where cams can sometimes be worse than useless. Look for older easier routes and you'll find the years of traffic have made the placements really obvious. If you're on a real pocket money budget then go odd or even sizes first. Add cams as you can afford. Go whole sizes 1-3 first, then infill with what your favourite climbing areas need, if they need more. That could be half sizes, doubles of key sizes, micros or size 4+. Buy offset cams if the topo or guide says you need them. Only get offset wires if you're happy for your partner to spend an hour retrieving each one. Get tricams one christmas as a joke present. Hexes go wherever a cam goes better, but take fifteen times as long. And they make hangovers worse. Don't bother with them unless you're winter climbing. Big bros are for scaffolders. Whatever you carry, you need to be able to select and place it efficiently. You can be the climber that gets the right wire first time and cruises on. Or you can be the one who five minutes later is still threshing bushels of esoteric hardware around their groin trying to winnow out that perfect brass offset and getting boxed out of their brain with lactic acid.
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2019 21:57
|
|
|
Offset nuts are my favorite pieces so I disagree. Every nut comes out easy if you don't see them like and ape.
|
|
#
?
Oct 26, 2019 02:03
|
|
|
I onsighted my first 5.10d today! Super lovely rainy day at the Red. I went with a friend who hasn’t been climbing recently, so he only climbed one route and then belayed me the rest of the time, but I think I wanted to impress him or something because I felt like I was giving it my all when I finished the 10d. Overall, good day.
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2019 01:54
|
|
|
Nice, hard to beat the feeling of giving it your all on an onsight!
|
|
#
?
Oct 27, 2019 03:05
|
|
|
I guess this is a really vague question, but what separates a $200 shoe from a $100 shoe? Like I know different shapes excel at different styles, but I just don't understand what you're getting for your money.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 14:35
|
|
|
Mostly just the quality of build/materials. Shoes can be built for some different styles of climbing and may have distinct advantages/disadvantages, but you are mostly paying for build/material differences.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 14:54
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I guess this is a really vague question, but what separates a $200 shoe from a $100 shoe? Like I know different shapes excel at different styles, but I just don't understand what you're getting for your money. I'll be honest I'm not totally sure why they cost so much more, but generally the difference is that more expensive shoes are designed to force your foot into a "power" position so you can exert maximum pressure onto the tiniest possible foothold, basically channeling all your weight into a small area of the shoe. They do this with a bunch of tricks with the sole of the shoe that keep your foot permanently arched/flexed etc. They also typically have rubber over a significantly larger area of the shoe, like the top for toe hooking and the back for heel hooking. The rubber's usually softer so it's stickier. I admit I haven't worn a cheap shoe in ages but I tried a few on because I wanted a beater shoe and I was surprised at how flat they feel. Didn't actually buy any. That said not all shoes are like that, Dragos are lasted so that your foot is arched, but they're super soft so it's kind of up to you to keep your foot flexed to put in maximum pressure and the shoe does less work, with the advantage that the shoe is much more sensitive so it's easier to feel the foothold. They're also a boutique item and low volume specialty equipment is just expensive. You'd think with how popular climbing is now the prices would be coming down, but not really. Shoes are improving in my opinion though compared to 15-20 years ago. The other thing is that a lot of specialty sports stuff have really high MSRPs to get people trying the sport out, like running shoe MSRPs are outrageous, but most of the people who run all the time I know just bulk buy previous year(s) models for 50% off at least, and I get most of my climbing shoes for the same. It gets a lot easier to buy sales when you already know your size and you can just jump on a deal since you know eventually you'll wear the shoe. Except Dragos. loving shoes are impossible to find on sale.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 15:15
|
|
|
Don't get golfers elbow everyone!
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 22:01
|
|
|
magicalmako posted:Don't get golfers elbow everyone! Too late
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 22:10
|
|
|
Put my membership on hold for the next two months. Just have not been able to get into climbing since the injury.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 22:10
|
|
|
I listened to an interesting podcast recently and was unaware that most of the work for climbing shoes is still done by hand, which explains a large chunk of that cost.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 22:12
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:Put my membership on hold for the next two months. Just have not been able to get into climbing since the injury. I'm considering doing this; I haven't been able to get into it after moving + a bunch of other stuff that has made me tired at the end of the day.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 22:21
|
|
|
magicalmako posted:Don't get golfers elbow everyone! Every climber should own a green therabar.
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 22:58
|
|
|
Do you use yours on the regular? I bought one after like my first month of climbing but I've barely used because I'm simply not that sore most of the time. Maybe that just means I'm not climbing often/hard enough 
|
|
#
?
Oct 28, 2019 23:10
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Do you use yours on the regular? I bought one after like my first month of climbing but I've barely used because I'm simply not that sore most of the time. I work as a chef, also (often holding a knife, etc) so I use mine a few times a week for preventative maintenance. E: It’s also fun to wield at work (I am also a woman with a 12 year old boy sense of humor) remote control carnivore fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Oct 29, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2019 00:07
|
|
|
spwrozek posted:Put my membership on hold for the next two months. Just have not been able to get into climbing since the injury. Feeling this too, I came back from my surgery in March and it still doesn't feel as good as it did last year. Especially now that it's getting cold. It's really hard to get motivated properly when I feel like I'm just not performing how I should.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2019 09:02
|
|
|
Thanks goons. Turns out it was just a sleeping position where my arm was being overextended at night. I switched to trying to keep my arms out from under the pillow and it went away.
Tenchrono fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Oct 30, 2019 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2019 03:54
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Do you use yours on the regular? I bought one after like my first month of climbing but I've barely used because I'm simply not that sore most of the time. Someone else can correct me if I'm wrong, but the most use I've gotten out of it is for tendonitis, not necessarily for dealing with muscle
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2019 04:33
|
|
|
Sound_man posted:I have one and use it with lighter partners. It helps with falls and lowering but it can be annoying when you are clipping. Sometimes it locks when you are pulling through and then the belayer needs to wiggle the rope to free it up. I refer to it as my fat kid tool of shame. Thanks for the advice, everyone. Local gym had one they let me borrow and it helped a lot, so I ordered one and it will arrive today. Looking forward to some lead falling practice.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2019 15:11
|
|
|
Been a great week of rock climbing so far. Good vibes story incoming: I went to REI this past Friday to buy a harness and ended up chatting with some dude who was shopping for a snowboard. He was sold on a board already, but I pointed out a few favorites of mine from their selection and we were initially just hyping ourselves for the Winter season. However, he then told me he only rides local (we live in Maryland) while holding a powder board. I apparently had a look on my face that read "uhhh I dunno if you want that my guy" and since I mentioned to him before that I work at a ski shop he had a few questions. I ended up upselling him on a board better suited for his riding style and for ice coast conditions. How this relates to climbing is that a manager watched the whole thing go down, and afterwards he approached me like "You might as well have been working for us just now" and he gave me 30% off on my first ever climbing harness  Later that day I went to my climbing gym eager to top-rope. I ran into two of my friends who were already there, but unfortunately they were making their way out. Everyone else I hit up wasn't able to go, so I just wandered over to the top-roping area hoping to find a group of three people. I met someone who was able to belay me once, but she was on her way out as well, however she had a bunch of friends who were there so I linked up with them and got a few hours of climbing in. Before we all left they invited me to go climbing outdoors. Fast forward to this past Sunday and I finally tried outdoor climbing for the first time ever at Great Falls Park. It was awesome! It's completely different from climbing at a gym, for obvious reasons, but I loved it and can't wait to give it another go. But yeah, I'm very much loving the climbing life. This Wednesday is my birthday and I'm trying to get as many people as I can to come through to Earth Treks in Columbia. If anyone's in or near the area, feel free to message me
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2019 19:56
|
|
|
Finally finished painting and adding the holes to the middle section of the home traversal wall in the garage. Have 1/2 of the t-nuts in and the rest are on their way in the mail. Plan on expanding an additional 4'x8' or 8'x8' section to the left over thanksgiving break. Will be blending the paint once the last 31 nuts go in. 66"x 9 1/2' right now. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 5, 2019 18:50
|
|
|
Top roped a 5.11 offwidth last weekend and afterward noticed my La Sportiva Kataki's got ripped open at the toes! I assume heel-toe camming is what did it, as I'm no master at the technique, though I'm not 100% sure whether or not the shoes were damaged at some point earlier anyway, has anyone tried RockandResole.com, is it worth the hassle to get them fixed? or is there a better service out there
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2019 02:44
|
|
|
Rock and resole is a great place. Need to see pictures to determine if it is worth it. If it is holes in the toes I usually don't like adding a toe cap to fix it. The shoe ends up feeling weird.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2019 02:53
|
|
|
here's the situation
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2019 03:18
|
|
|
Mokelumne Trekka posted:here's the situation Those are unsalvageable
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2019 03:34
|
|
|
Mokelumne Trekka posted:here's the situation Those are bad but I've had a shoe with a blown rand repaired and resoled. You can send the photos to the repairer–I used New England Resole. Suicide Watch posted:Welp, the creasing broke and now I think I need a rand repair? Guess it couldn't last the rest of the season
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2019 07:15
|
|
|
I wouldn't resole OP's shoes if they were mine, but I would resole those. The main difference is that in OP's case the leather stitching in the toe behind the rand rubber is also worn away and so the seam is opening up. They could be resoled, but it won't last super long and they may fit differently as well. Generally you want to get shoes resoled LONG before they get to that point.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2019 15:17
|
|
|
Thanks for the tips, so to speak. Regardless of outcome this is a harsh lesson to pay close attention to wear and tear, even on relatively new, costly shoes (got them in March I think)
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2019 21:52
|
|
|
Mokelumne Trekka posted:Thanks for the tips, so to speak. Regardless of outcome this is a harsh lesson to pay close attention to wear and tear, even on relatively new, costly shoes (got them in March I think) I get about 6 months of regular climbing (3 days a week for a few hours at a time) out of a sole, maybe a bit less.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2019 21:55
|
|
|
Katakis seem exceptionally fragile in the toe area. Mine also ripped there, within I think ~2 months of buying them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2019 00:17
|
|
|
I feel like I've really "plateaud" recently, but oh well. Still having fun Went from "flashed this problem but I have 0 strength to do anything else" to "downclimbed twice in one night" over the last few weeks so that's cool I guess https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMY2r1P1j4c I need to break this habbit of "testing" my grip on a hold before committing to it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 02:06
|
|
|
I've been climbing at the gym a lot with very sticky walls, but how have my Scarpas worn out so quickly? The rest of the shoes have a nice fat layer of XS Edge2 at the front, just the small patch. Did it come off because it was delaminating a bit?
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 03:52
|
|
|
That's exactly how climbing shoes wear. This is the optimal time to get them resoled. You can go a bit more, but they will need a rand (they may already).
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 05:00
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:I feel like I've really "plateaud" recently, but oh well. Still having fun Your technique looks MUCH better VS other stuff you posted in the past. This looks really fun
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 13:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 16:27 |
|
|
Sab669 posted:I feel like I've really "plateaud" recently, but oh well. Still having fun I’m pretty new, so take my advice with a grain of salt, but I was feeling about like you are, then I spent a few months lead climbing, and the increase in my endurance helped my bouldering a lot. I’d bet there are more bouldering specific endurance training methods, but I don’t know them, and lead is fun anyways.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2019 19:58
|
|