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A few months ago I took the nighthawk for a ride, and on a certain stretch of road I felt a little wobble... Then a few miles later, during a turn, I felt a shift... I had an idea, I pulled over and sure enough, I hadn't torqued the axle down after adjusting the chain. Nut was still there, but finger tight. Oof. I gingerly got it home, torqued everything down, and headed back out to my original destination. At the same stretch of road I felt the same wobble (asphalt there is a little wiggly), and in the same turn I felt the same shift (this bike's a mess), I guess it was all unrelated and the voice in the back of my head managed to save me anyway. EDIT: A shameful page snipe.
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Nov 15, 2019 05:48
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| # ? May 14, 2024 02:57 |
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AuxiliaryPatroller posted:Was riding my new bike home, and things didn’t feel right. No Nut November is real y’all. Reminds me that in the manual for my Wee, the US model didn't use a castellated nut (but everywhere else did). Is that, like, a thing in the states?
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Nov 15, 2019 08:01
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I've been meaning to check on the tightness of various bolts on my bike, I think this is as good a reason as any to get that done tomorrow.
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Nov 16, 2019 00:08
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I got a package with a radiator grille, tank pads, and engine scuff covers.... For the bike I put into storage weeks ago  Now I get to stare at these all winter.
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Nov 16, 2019 01:13
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Phy posted:Reminds me that in the manual for my Wee, the US model didn't use a castellated nut (but everywhere else did). Is that, like, a thing in the states? The manual for my b12 implies Canada, and only Canada, got a castellated but with a split pin.
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Nov 16, 2019 02:45
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Nov 16, 2019 04:44
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Slavvy posted:The manual for my b12 implies Canada, and only Canada, got a castellated but with a split pin.
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Nov 16, 2019 18:39
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I don’t think the RAM fork mount was ever designed to work with my bike’s fork nut since it’s not just a straight hollow tube. I had to improvise a little.  The top part of the nut is an allen key way but then opens up into a circular shaft. I machined and tapped something that’ll fit into the circular shaft that I can epoxy in place and won’t rotate when I tighten the ram mount down. Kind of a pain in the butt but it was a fun excuse to learn to run a lathe.
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Nov 19, 2019 01:25
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AuxiliaryPatroller posted:No Nut November is real y’all. (glad you're not dead)
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Nov 19, 2019 16:39
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What size ring terminals do I need to attach my new GPS' terminal-less red and black wires to my battery terminals?
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Nov 20, 2019 13:44
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Usually anywhere from m6-m10, you'll have to look. Are you putting a fuse in? Probably not necessary but a blade fuse costs less than a GPS unit
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Nov 20, 2019 13:51
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Are you planning on running it through an ignition relay? GPS sounds like just the kind of thing I'd accidentally leave running 
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Nov 20, 2019 15:26
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not mine, but my brother's 
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Nov 20, 2019 20:59
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Shelvocke posted:Usually anywhere from m6-m10, you'll have to look.
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Nov 21, 2019 06:56
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My Honda CBF 125 has a metal plate covering the battery area that attaches to the motorcycle with two 10mm bolts. This plate, if it was to be screwed in properly, would impede the pillion seat being put on properly. I have three ring terminals wired to the battery so the top of the terminal heads take up a bit more space vertically than stock. If I screw the plate in properly the right side of the pillion seat doesn’t fall into its slot as the plate sticks up too much. My question is, can I just leave the stupid plate off? Nothing is jiggling around and all connections are stable and I just rode it 3 miles with zero issues with it off.
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Nov 22, 2019 12:59
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Nearly all bike batteries are M6 (1/4"), with M5 (3/16") on really small scooter batteries. It was an M5. Thanks mate.
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Nov 22, 2019 14:20
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Steakandchips posted:My Honda CBF 125 has a metal plate covering the battery area that attaches to the motorcycle with two 10mm bolts. Who knows? Post a pic and someone might know.
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Nov 22, 2019 18:55
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Slavvy posted:Who knows? Post a pic and someone might know.  This thing.Here it is being put back on to the motorbike: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLT5-npah30&t=71s
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Nov 22, 2019 19:34
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Ok so that's what stops the battery bouncing around over bumps, not really a good idea to just leave that out. I don't understand why you can't put it back though. I meant take a picture of your one on your bike to clarify the issue.
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Nov 22, 2019 20:55
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Slavvy posted:Ok so that's what stops the battery bouncing around over bumps, not really a good idea to just leave that out. I don't understand why you can't put it back though. I meant take a picture of your one on your bike to clarify the issue. Appreciate you having a think about it. Thank you. I shall take a picture of my own battery and the bit what sticks up soon to show that while I can put the plate back, the rear seat does not slot into place properly due to the plate sticking up a bit. Other than stopping the battery bouncing around over bumps, does that plate do anything else of note? FYI, the battery in this Honda is firmly wedged in there, it ain't bouncing around at all.
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Nov 22, 2019 21:30
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Did my first oil change, chain clean & lube, and cleaned the rear wheel.  Yamaha came up with the most hard-to-clean wheel design they could and then painted them bright red-orange
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Nov 24, 2019 23:23
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Steakandchips posted:Appreciate you having a think about it. Thank you. It depends on the design, the Hawk GT has something similar that most people take off because it makes getting at the terminals more difficult. However, it also helps to hold the plastic fender/battery box up in the subframe so that the entire fender/battery box does not bounce around. What happens eventually is the plastic fender tabs loosen and wear out and the whole fender + battery sags down in the subframe. I'd leave it on.
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Nov 25, 2019 18:35
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Looking at the pic my guess would be it's designed to stop the seat plastic squashing the battery when you sit on the bike. The seat isn't perfectly rigid, the metal piece is there to take the weight when it bows. Tbh it sounds like you're attacking the wrong end of this, rather than taking pieces of the bike off to accommodate a sticking up terminal, it's easier to just make a better solution for the battery terminals. Again if you can just post a pic of the problem itself there's probably a much better way than taking the battery bracket out.
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Nov 25, 2019 18:42
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How did the problem arise anyway? Does the bracket not fit from the factory?
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Nov 25, 2019 23:02
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Just to be safe, is it the correct battery? I seem to remember someone having a similar problem recently and it was a battery that was a little bit too tall.
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Nov 26, 2019 00:50
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Replaced the RAM X Mount with a Quad Lock and case for my XS. Got pretty annoyed having to nudge my phone around to keep it from hitting my volume buttons so hopefully this is more usable. Definitely not worrying about my phone falling out, I’ll tell you that. Am /slightly/ more worried about the vibrations transmitted to the phone since it’s now directly bolted to my fork stem, but don’t imagine it’ll add up to much more damage in the long run than the X mount.
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Nov 29, 2019 00:22
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Martytoof posted:Replaced the RAM X Mount with a Quad Lock and case for my XS. Got pretty annoyed having to nudge my phone around to keep it from hitting my volume buttons so hopefully this is more usable. Definitely not worrying about my phone falling out, I’ll tell you that. Keep an eye on it. I murderd two phones by mounting them.
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Nov 29, 2019 00:34
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Sorted out the wiring to look less poo poo: Before:  After: 
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Nov 29, 2019 18:45
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Martytoof posted:Replaced the RAM X Mount with a Quad Lock and case for my XS. Got pretty annoyed having to nudge my phone around to keep it from hitting my volume buttons so hopefully this is more usable. Definitely not worrying about my phone falling out, I’ll tell you that. My X-Mount killed three different phones' image stabilizers, but I never had a problem with the Quad Lock. Also, even though my bike went flipping and spinning and sliding down the highway, my phone which has a glass front and back and was mounted to my handlebars was completely unharmed.
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Nov 29, 2019 22:30
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Steakandchips posted:Sorted out the wiring to look less poo poo: OK I think I recognize heated grips and charge-a-majig, what else you got?  Looks much cleaner though!
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Nov 29, 2019 23:02
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Installed a lead for my heated base layer on the new bike. This was way easier than expected. Getting at the battery on my last bike was kind of a pain in the rear end. For this one, seat comes off, ECU and bracket get moved out of the way, and then there's the battery and a ton of space for running the cable. And now I can tolerate riding for a couple more months.
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Nov 29, 2019 23:46
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Martytoof posted:OK I think I recognize heated grips and charge-a-majig, what else you got? Haha, thanks man. Mods so far: 1. GoPro Session handlebar mount. 2. GoPro Session mount, affixed with 3M sticky pad, to the rear (unseen in photo). 3. Oxford Hot Hands removable heated grips with toggle switch on the handlebar to the right. 4. Gerbing MicrowirePro XRL heated gloves (power cord from battery that hangs out to the left of the seat, unseen). 5. TomTom Rider 550 with charger mount on handlebar to the left. Arriving in about 10 days: Gerbing MicrowirePro Premium jacket liner which will hookup to the power cord from the battery already installed, but I'll have to change the fuse in it to a larger capacity one. The jacket liner should power my gloves.
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Nov 30, 2019 00:01
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Newly studded TKC80 on the front, so much better grip than the old studded Mitas E09.
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Nov 30, 2019 14:12
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Steakandchips posted:3. Oxford Hot Hands removable heated grips with toggle switch on the handlebar to the right. Oh! That’s why they look so familiar. Now looking at them I’m reminded that I got a set with my ninja 250 that i pulled off in my zeal to undo everything the PO had touched. I should figure out how to rig these again for spring though.
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Nov 30, 2019 19:09
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Martytoof posted:Oh! That’s why they look so familiar. Now looking at them I’m reminded that I got a set with my ninja 250 that i pulled off in my zeal to undo everything the PO had touched. They're easy to install. You should have: Ring terminals with a cable. Y cable with switch. 2 Hot Hands. Velcro straps/wire ties/cable ties. Basic tools. 1. Install ring terminals to battery, taking care so that the existing black terminals/screw are the first things removed then the existing red terminals/screw are removed, then the red ones are installed first with the new red ring terminal, and then the black ones last including the new black ring terminal. 2. Route wire from battery terminals through to the handlebars (under seat and under the petrol tank if possible, basically as hidden away as possible). 3. Attach the Y cable bottom end to the battery terminal wire. 4. Attach the Hot Hands to the handlebars, making sure that the 3 inch wire coming out of them points maybe 45 degrees down from the horizon in front (basically to make sure it does not get in your way while you ride on either hand, and that it does not come towards you when you twist the throttle with your right hand). When attaching the Hot Hands, make sure you get a nice tight fit with the velcro, particularly for the throttle side, so that the throttle turns properly without slopping the Hot Hand around. 5. Attach the Hot Hands' wire to the Y cable ends. 6. Use a lot of velcro straps/wire ties/cable ties to neaten up the rats nest of wires that should be hanging around right now, including the on/off switch which you should cable tie down to a handlebar in easy reach. 7. Before tightening down velcro straps/ties, make sure there is enough slack in the wires so that you can go full lock left turn to full lock right turn without stretching wires/without impeding your turning. 8. Make sure you know the difference between which side of the switch is on/off (the little green light on the switch is not very bright, FYI), so that you do not accidentally leave them on and drain your battery. The good thing about these is that you can take them off before you sell your bike, which is what I'll be doing when I sell my Honda 125.
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Nov 30, 2019 19:40
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helstein posted:Newly studded TKC80 on the front, so much better grip than the old studded Mitas E09. nice
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Nov 30, 2019 19:52
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Tried to install a pillion peg blanking panel set that I bought off AliExpress. Shocking twist: cheap AliExpress garbage part doesn’t fit right Steakandchips posted:They're easy to install. Sounds great, I’ll have to whip these on before spring! Thanks 
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Nov 30, 2019 22:33
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helstein posted:Newly studded TKC80 on the front, so much better grip than the old studded Mitas E09. Do you do anything different when putting those tires on? The one time I’ve put on tires with studs it was... painful and I thought I was being awfully careful.
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Dec 1, 2019 04:03
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builds character posted:Do you do anything different when putting those tires on? The one time I’ve put on tires with studs it was... painful and I thought I was being awfully careful. I invested in a http://tiremountingtool.com/tmt5/ a couple of years ago (I change 20+ tires a year), the stand combined with a http://tiremountingtool.com/store-2/tmt/ is really great. Pro-tip: warm the tires in a hot water tub, it makes the rubber really easy to fold.
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Dec 1, 2019 16:40
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| # ? May 14, 2024 02:57 |
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In a flu-induced delirium, I replaced my exhaust today. I managed to
Overall, a resounding success.  I've not yet ridden it, nor taken any pics, because of said flu-induced delirium. I suspect if I do, and the check-engine light doesn't turn on, I'm riding it to a dealer to fix my mistakes. I also didn't paint it, as the powder coaters I called were either skeptical, or wanting 150 quid (which'd have brought it to 'just buy a black one' territory), and the rattlecan I bought requires a temp of 21*C to apply, when it's 0-7*C outside. [edit] Supradog managed to dig out a forum post which might explain the check engine light, as I removed the O2 sensor with the power on. So time to buy an obd2 reader. Horse Clocks fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Dec 2, 2019 |
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Dec 2, 2019 15:39
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