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There's a guy near me selling a 98 Wrangler, 112k miles, 4.0 AT for $4000. It's stuck in 4WD tho....He said it needs a transmission but it sounds like a transfer case? Should I just avoid it?
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Nov 4, 2019 02:05
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| # ? May 27, 2024 14:50 |
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Applebees Appetizer posted:There's a guy near me selling a 98 Wrangler, 112k miles, 4.0 AT for $4000. Sure it’s not just the shift linkage? $4K for a TJ with that low of mileage, I’d be tempted to fix and flip ...
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Nov 4, 2019 02:19
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Yeah that would be either the transfer case itself or the linkage. Aftermarket linkage is about $200, used NP231s should be about $300 if you just want to high speed part swap instead of tearing the old one down. You could also pop the front driveshaft out.
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Nov 4, 2019 02:27
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Used 231s are like 100 max near me. Make sure you get the right year and spline count, there are dozens of variations. Probably just the linkage. Hell, he might not realize his tires are different diameters and it's binding the tcase in 4wd so it won't pop out. Try goosing the throttle in reverse after shifting to 2hi before you do anything else.
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Nov 4, 2019 02:42
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I suppose if I subtract out the value of the Novak linkage and the megashort SYE already installed, I actually got paid $280 to take the NP231 they were already attached to  I should really get off my rear end and install it. The stock TJ linkage is loving awful.
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Nov 4, 2019 03:32
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Isn't it roughly the same as the XJ one? I used to think it's awful but I understand why they designed it that way now. It's still annoying and crappy to work on after 20 years of rust but there's a reason they made it so complicated.
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Nov 4, 2019 03:45
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Yeah, pretty much the same. Mine has a transfer case drop on it at the moment which isn't helping anything. Coming from the factory cable shifter in the WJ, it's a big difference.
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Nov 4, 2019 04:12
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I put on the savvy cable shifter and yeah, it's smoother and clicky now. Worth $180? Fuckin no. I never had any problems with the factory linkage, except for a mechanic that didn't reconnect it one time. I do think the jeep is slightly less jingly-jangly underneath now.
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Nov 4, 2019 15:15
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Factory cable shifter?! How the hell did I not know that? I wonder if I can scab one into my MJ... It looks like it wouldn't fit the interior very well but I don't really care and my linkage is screwed up. I built it between the point where I got annoyed by the factory one and the point where I learned why the factory one had the bellcrank spanning between the trans and body, so the flex in both my motor mounts and the chassis is... Unhelpful.
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Nov 4, 2019 16:36
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Yeah, WJs have cables for both the transmission and transfer case shifters, and no Z-gate on the shifter (at least on NV247 WJs).
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Nov 4, 2019 17:53
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kastein posted:Isn't it roughly the same as the XJ one? I used to think it's awful but I understand why they designed it that way now. It's still annoying and crappy to work on after 20 years of rust but there's a reason they made it so complicated. Care to expound on this? My XJ linkage is so janky, pops out of 4Lo unless I yank the hell out of it when engaging, and just annoys me. But not enough to drop $80 on that Azzy linkage. Curious to learn why it’s designed like that
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Nov 5, 2019 00:33
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Basically, it's to (try) and prevent drivetrain movement from affecting the shifter position. The bellcrank has the ends fixed but it's allowed to rotate and one end is fixed lengthwise while the other is allowed to slide back and forth in its support. At the end of the shaft supported by the body there's an arm to a rod to the hand shifter, at the other end of the shaft (supported by the trans) there's an arm to a rod to the tcase shift arm. So all the movement of the drivetrain (well, most of it) is theoretically taken up by the bellcrank moving around instead of it changing the shifter position. A cable is the right answer, but costs more than some stamped bits of metal and a few 25 cent bushings. The azzy linkage is essentially a rip-off of the boostwerks one, which was on the market several years earlier. It works by ignoring the whole problem and pretending it doesn't exist, or basically just hoping that the customers motor and trans mounts are in good shape and they don't mind the shifter not always quite lining up with the legends. They do work but... Eh. kastein fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Nov 5, 2019 |
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Nov 5, 2019 05:18
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I'm once again considering doing the 4 hole injector swap on my XJ. Looks like getting refurbished Bosch injectors from eBay would cost only slightly more than junkyard injectors and a set of o-rings and screens. Or I could get no name clones from eBay for about half the price. Thoughts? I still kind of want to go there junkyard route, even though it's probably a waste of time. I'm also a bit sceptical of knockoffs, but it's a Jeep with 90s fuel injection, not the Space Shuttle.
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Nov 5, 2019 17:36
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The no name ones seem to have failure rates tens to hundreds of times higher than factory. I would get refurb or junkyard ones over that. Refurb, btw, basically means they got soaked in cleaner, had cleaner flushed through, orings replaced, and if the filter screens and nozzles are replaceable, those were swapped. That's about all that can be rebuilt on a molded case gasoline fuel injector. Edit: if yours aren't throwing circuit codes you can probably just get yours rebuilt. I bet a set of oem 1 holes after cleaning and new screens will perform every bit as well as rebuilt 4 holes.
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Nov 6, 2019 05:25
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kastein posted:The no name ones seem to have failure rates tens to hundreds of times higher than factory. I would get refurb or junkyard ones over that. Refurb, btw, basically means they got soaked in cleaner, had cleaner flushed through, orings replaced, and if the filter screens and nozzles are replaceable, those were swapped. That's about all that can be rebuilt on a molded case gasoline fuel injector. In that case I'll probably order o-rings/screens and then let the weather decide (after confirming that both injectors use the same screens).
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Nov 6, 2019 17:59
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I went with an eBay set of Bosch (I think - they're orange). The plastic bodied injectors are super light and cheap feeling compared to the oem injectors but they've been working fine for a while now. I didn't notice any change from the "upgrade".
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Nov 7, 2019 02:47
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I installed a set of refurbished, 4-hole Bosch 19lb injectors in my 2.5 for $45. I had it torn apart to replace the gasket for the intake and exhaust along with a broken exhaust stud. When I noticed how dirty and crusty my original injectors were, I looked into getting them cleaned professionally and it was more expensive than just getting a set of refurbished injectors. It idles much smoother, but it's probably mostly due to the cleanliness factor more than the 4 holes.
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Nov 7, 2019 04:19
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Update on my hand grooved BFG Mud T/A KMs: Sooooo much better now on wet pavement. I have to really get on it to break them loose (less so if I’m turning at the moment of goosing). I modeled the grooving after the KM3 pattern and also siped them on top of that. I hate these less now.  Can’t see the siping, but it’s there
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Nov 15, 2019 06:50
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Cat Hatter posted:I'm once again considering doing the 4 hole injector swap on my XJ. Looks like getting refurbished Bosch injectors from eBay would cost only slightly more than junkyard injectors and a set of o-rings and screens. Or I could get no name clones from eBay for about half the price. Thoughts? I tried to find the correct 4hole Bosch injectors at my local junkyard for months, but the ebay injector rebuild guys beat me to them every time. Finally I bought a set of un-rebuilt ones for like $50, and redid them myself. I used this rebuild kit and it worked great. You can easily get the baskets out with the correct size wood screw - turn it a few turns in until it's firm and yank it out with pliers. I went the extra mile and snipped a pigtail off of a harness at the junkyard, and wired it up to a little 12v battery. Then I got the right diameter hose to jam into the back of the injector, and put a big kitchen brine injector thing on the other end (got lucky, hose fit that too). Filled it with injector cleaner, depress the plunger, tap the pigtail wire to the battery lead and you can flow enough to clean them out and verify none of the holes are clogged. It was janky and messy but worked great and was kinda fun. Definitely would have been easier and faster to buy a rebuilt set, but they were kinda pricey. I noticed a smoother idle, but you won't get magical MPG improvement or anything like guys say. My original OEM injectors on the Renix engine were two-peice and known for leaking so it was definitely a worthwhile upgrade on that end. Of note, if yours is a renix they like a slightly different injector than the 703s everyone gets for the newer years.
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Nov 15, 2019 23:18
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My wrists are very upset with me this morning. The oil filter would not come off yesterday. I still have to wax the windshield and get new tires before the winter weather starts to hit.
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Nov 18, 2019 20:40
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Strap wrench--that thing is a lifesaver for the 4 liter filter.
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Nov 18, 2019 20:47
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I've stopped wasting time with strap wrenches on filters I don't plan to use again. Get some oil filter pliers, they don't gently caress around.
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Nov 18, 2019 21:51
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Whatever you do, look the hell out for the oil pressure sensor because your next post will be "what's this thing hanging by my engine on the passenger side? Why am I leaking oil? Why doesn't my oil pressure gauge work anymore?" Otherwise. It's like a quicklube grease monkey rite of passage breaking those. Very easy to knock off changing the filter...  (Pictured: a 99-up Grand Cherokee or 00-up Cherokee/Wrangler)
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Nov 19, 2019 02:04
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My 2000 Wrangler has the oil filter flush against the block. The 2004 engine I rebuilt is the same. Edit: the pictured engine mount is different, is that an automatic or just how they are in Cherokees? My TJ is a manual transmission. EightBit fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Nov 19, 2019 |
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Nov 19, 2019 05:48
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EightBit posted:My 2000 Wrangler has the oil filter flush against the block. The 2004 engine I rebuilt is the same.
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Nov 19, 2019 06:54
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Yeah the 90 degree adapter is XJ specific, as far as I know. My 02 TJ is straight into the block. No idea on 4.0 WJs.
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Nov 19, 2019 07:24
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I can't remember WJ oil filter orientation either. I know XJs used a 90 degree adapter vertical until the 91 or 92ish time frame and then a 90 degree adapter horizontal after that, though. They also changed the filter thread at the same time from a metric one that AMC specced to the same filter most Chryslers used at the time of the change, believe it's an S16 with a 3/4-16 thread.
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Nov 19, 2019 11:44
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EightBit posted:My 2000 Wrangler has the oil filter flush against the block. The 2004 engine I rebuilt is the same. The XJ wasn't initially designed to have the 4.0L shoehorned into it (just the 2.5L and 2.8L), so clearance at the frame rail for the filter is very minimal, hence the 90 degree adapter. On the plus side, you can run a much larger filter with it.
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Nov 21, 2019 03:41
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If you have the clearance like I did, you can remove the 90 degree adapter, remove and install the threaded nipple into the block and run without it.
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Nov 21, 2019 18:47
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Are there any sites that sell wheels/tires that do black friday sales? Looking in to picking up a set of 5 and saving a bit of money would be nice.
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Nov 21, 2019 20:27
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I've never seen name brand AT tires like the BFG AT K/O on sale, but I did find Costco sells them and mounts them for a decent price. Every now and then they have like a $50 rebate for a new set of BFG tires. For wheels if you have time to watch craigslist for a while you'll definitely find a set of stockers for almost any car.
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Nov 21, 2019 20:55
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Discount Tire / America's Tire / Discount Tire Direct does some form of sale every holiday, though they haven't been as good as they used to be.
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Nov 21, 2019 21:05
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iForge posted:If you have the clearance like I did, you can remove the 90 degree adapter, remove and install the threaded nipple into the block and run without it. My ‘98 XJ doesn’t have the adapter either. One less thing to start leaking down the line.
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Nov 21, 2019 21:36
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So the 4.0 my TJ is definitely making some sort of metal-on-metal clack once in every 10-20 cold starts or so. Only on a properly cold start - it only happens if it's been sitting for a long time, though it doesn't seem to care too much about ambient temperature. It goes away within 5-10 seconds but it doesn't fade out - it will just stop. Blackstone results on the oil the PO had in it were healthy so I don't think it's munching any bearings. I'm kinda thinking a lifter issue? I'm very much leaning towards ignoring the issue until I have $LS.
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Nov 21, 2019 23:33
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iForge posted:If you have the clearance like I did, you can remove the 90 degree adapter, remove and install the threaded nipple into the block and run without it. How much clearance is there and how? Even a standard filter coming straight off the block would be maybe fractions of an inch from my frame rail, and that's being extremely confident in the condition of the engine mounts not allowing so much as the slightest wiggle.
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Nov 21, 2019 23:46
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Philip J Fry posted:How much clearance is there and how? Even a standard filter coming straight off the block would be maybe fractions of an inch from my frame rail, and that's being extremely confident in the condition of the engine mounts not allowing so much as the slightest wiggle. I did that on my MJ with brown dog engine mounts, so YMMV. Ask Adiabatic for a pic if you want, he owns it now.
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Nov 21, 2019 23:55
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Not normally a fan of the color of my jeep, but it worked today. White almost mono by B. B., on Flickr
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Nov 22, 2019 21:13
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This would be a fun project, if I had a garage and free time.
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Nov 23, 2019 17:12
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Moey posted:This would be a fun project, if I had a garage and free time. Do it. We can live your pain vicariously.
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Nov 23, 2019 17:17
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Moey posted:This would be a fun project, if I had a garage and free time. How were brakes and tune up parts $2K?
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Nov 23, 2019 18:05
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