Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Cricken_Nigfops
Oct 25, 2011

CROM!
For basing glue, I've been using Elmer's forever...now I hear that wood glue is better? What do you use? What do you like to?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Ben Nerevarine
Apr 14, 2006

The Moon Monster posted:

Dunno how large scale you want to go or how much you want to spend, but Pegaso has some pretty cool medieval stuff in the 50-90mm range.

https://www.pegasoworld.com/product-category/pegaso-shop/pegaso-crusaders/pegaso-crusaders-75mm/

Are there any sites/brands anyone could recommend for science fiction and fantasy models sort of in this vein? I'm not into tabletop gaming, I just like painting minis and figures.

The Dregs
Dec 29, 2005

MY TREEEEEEEE!

Ben Nerevarine posted:

Are there any sites/brands anyone could recommend for science fiction and fantasy models sort of in this vein? I'm not into tabletop gaming, I just like painting minis and figures.

Dreamforge games is having a 75% off sale right now on their giant robots. I bought two of the smaller (5") ones for 13 bucks each.

There's also a buttload of Gundams out there

Salynne
Oct 25, 2007

Cricken_Nigfops posted:

For basing glue, I've been using Elmer's forever...now I hear that wood glue is better? What do you use? What do you like to?

As far as I know Elmer's glue and wood glue and tacky glue are all pretty much the same glue.

Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

thespaceinvader
Mar 30, 2011

The slightest touch from a Gol-Shogeg will result in Instant Death!

General Olloth posted:

As far as I know Elmer's glue and wood glue and tacky glue are all pretty much the same glue.

Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

Yeaf, they're all usually various formulations of polyvinyl acetate AKA PVA glue.

Not all wood glues are though, but honestly when it comes to basing you can pretty much use anything that sets hard, PVA glue, superglue, or epoxy will all work. PVA is the cheapest, least messy, and least acrid option.

Cricken_Nigfops
Oct 25, 2011

CROM!
Yeah I've been really happy with it because all I do is simple sand or tinted sand.

The Moon Monster
Dec 30, 2005

Ben Nerevarine posted:

Are there any sites/brands anyone could recommend for science fiction and fantasy models sort of in this vein? I'm not into tabletop gaming, I just like painting minis and figures.

There are so many! I don't actually have personal experience with most of these places, but I do like gawking at awesome minis.

Pegaso has their Kimera line which you can find on their site, and I think they're in some sort of informal group with Nocturna, Aradia, and MKontraros, so you could check those out too.

Black Sun has a ton of fantasy barbarians if you like barbarians. They also seem a bit cheaper than a lot of minis in these ranges.

The only one of these European large scale places I've actually bought anything from is Big Child Creatives through a kickstarter. They do a lot of contract work but they have their own line that's great if you like orcs. They're the sharpest, highest detail casts I've personally ever seen so I can definitely recommend them.

http://www.figone.fr has its own minis but also retails a ton of minis in this vein from other producers, so you could peruse their site to see a lot of companies' ranges.

Dozens of sellers I haven't mentioned.

Just a warning, virtually all of these have some-alot of pinup minis so the sites may be :nws:

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
One of the only drawbacks to Elmer's glue is that it doesn't always dry clear, it can yellow sometimes. But since you should be painting over it anyways it really doesn't matter for basing.

Anime_Otaku
Dec 6, 2009
My current WIP Orks, finally got my skin tones done, except one Gretchin, because I’m doing him based on a character by an artist that I like and need red and yellow for the skin, also thinking of not doing his guns in metal, again based on the source material, and the Squig hounds, because again, not got the actual colour for it. May go ahead and do the teeth soon.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Wizard
Aug 3, 2014

Paul Blart: Mall Blart
My Iron Hands Apothecary

Getsuya
Oct 2, 2013
Hey folks, I got into painting a year or two ago but I don't often have time to sit down and do it.
I really love it when I do, though. It's very relaxing and I'm surprised how good stuff looks even with a total noob like me holding the brush.
Here's my first few projects ever as a painter:
(Sorry these pics aren't very well done. A lot of these models have been sold at craft fairs or given away to family members so I don't have them anymore for a better shot.)

Projects 1-3, the Reaper Bones learn to paint kit



This kit is awesome. The tutorials were really easy to understand and each model adds a few new techniques to focus on. The kit booklet plus a few beginner tutorials on Youtube gave me a solid start.

Projects 4-8
This is when I decided my main goal in mini painting was to buy monsters or characters that remind me of monsters or characters from video games I like (mostly Final Fantasy) and paint them based on their colors from the video game. The monsters below are based on the armadillo enemy from FF4 and the basilisk from FF1 or 2 I think. The mice are all either FFT or FF5 classes.



Projects 6-10
All the mice I have done so far, all of them FFT/5 classes.


I like how pretty much all of these look as far as figuring out color schemes and painting within the lines, but they look kind of like toys rather than painted minis. I haven't done much as far as dynamic lighting, proper shading and highlighting, dynamic basing or anything like that. I think the most innovative thing I did was use gloss instead of matte finisher on the white mage mouse's staff crystal so it would be shiny.

My process right now is base-wash-drybrush highlight-edge highlight but I still don't think I've fully grasped light effects so my highlighting seems a little random to my eyes. I think I also need to get an actual wash to use instead of what I'm doing now (Reaper paints thinned at a ratio of 1 drop paint to 4-8 drops water depending on how faint I want the wash to be).

I want to move up to bigger, more complicated models next so I have a few bigger Reaper monsters on deck (mostly dragons) and I'm eyeing some Warmahordes stuff to figure out which ones I could paint into Final Fantasy characters.

I'm also thinking of picking up some Gundam models (mostly Zakus or other bad guy mechs. I like the more bulky military look of the villain stuff) and painting them using Space Marine chapter color schemes.

Anyway this thread has given me a ton of good reading and hopefully I can get some pointers going forward. If there's anything horrendously wrong I'm doing based on these first 10 models please give me pointers! Aside from taking better pictures, which I will do with my next models now that I know how.

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Getsuya posted:

Hey folks, I got into painting a year or two ago but I don't often have time to sit down and do it.
I really love it when I do, though. It's very relaxing and I'm surprised how good stuff looks even with a total noob like me holding the brush.
Here's my first few projects ever as a painter:
(Sorry these pics aren't very well done. A lot of these models have been sold at craft fairs or given away to family members so I don't have them anymore for a better shot.)

Projects 1-3, the Reaper Bones learn to paint kit



This kit is awesome. The tutorials were really easy to understand and each model adds a few new techniques to focus on. The kit booklet plus a few beginner tutorials on Youtube gave me a solid start.

Projects 4-8
This is when I decided my main goal in mini painting was to buy monsters or characters that remind me of monsters or characters from video games I like (mostly Final Fantasy) and paint them based on their colors from the video game. The monsters below are based on the armadillo enemy from FF4 and the basilisk from FF1 or 2 I think. The mice are all either FFT or FF5 classes.



Projects 6-10
All the mice I have done so far, all of them FFT/5 classes.


I like how pretty much all of these look as far as figuring out color schemes and painting within the lines, but they look kind of like toys rather than painted minis. I haven't done much as far as dynamic lighting, proper shading and highlighting, dynamic basing or anything like that. I think the most innovative thing I did was use gloss instead of matte finisher on the white mage mouse's staff crystal so it would be shiny.

My process right now is base-wash-drybrush highlight-edge highlight but I still don't think I've fully grasped light effects so my highlighting seems a little random to my eyes. I think I also need to get an actual wash to use instead of what I'm doing now (Reaper paints thinned at a ratio of 1 drop paint to 4-8 drops water depending on how faint I want the wash to be).

I want to move up to bigger, more complicated models next so I have a few bigger Reaper monsters on deck (mostly dragons) and I'm eyeing some Warmahordes stuff to figure out which ones I could paint into Final Fantasy characters.

I'm also thinking of picking up some Gundam models (mostly Zakus or other bad guy mechs. I like the more bulky military look of the villain stuff) and painting them using Space Marine chapter color schemes.

Anyway this thread has given me a ton of good reading and hopefully I can get some pointers going forward. If there's anything horrendously wrong I'm doing based on these first 10 models please give me pointers! Aside from taking better pictures, which I will do with my next models now that I know how.

This is such a good post! :3 I absolutely love those little mice and I want a set to paint! I love reading other people's process and seeing their progress as well. Thank you for posting. :respek:

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013
I finished up a drop pod, and this has got to be the model that annoyed me the most while painting it. Bits flop all over the place and I zero efforted the flames on this thing, but its done, so that's something

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"
Maybe super obvious question but: should I Assemble -> Prime -> Paint -> Base -> Topcoat each model from start to finish or Assemble -> Prime -> temp Base them all?

Though, I like working with sub assemblies, I can just put aside the bits if we play before its done. I have a big back log of Warmachine stuff from their moving sale that I know will take a long long time to work though. Assembling them all first means I can pick and chose what I want to paint and play with something in the meanwhile, but if I realize I made a mistake in my assembly or priming process, might repeat that mistake a lot before I realize it.

R0ckfish posted:

I finished up a drop pod, and this has got to be the model that annoyed me the most while painting it. Bits flop all over the place and I zero efforted the flames on this thing, but its done, so that's something


This is the sort of thing that makes me want to stop what I'm doing and paint immediately. Great work.

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth

Cricken_Nigfops posted:

For basing glue, I've been using Elmer's forever...now I hear that wood glue is better? What do you use? What do you like to?

Wood glue in the states, in my experience, does not dry clear. That may or may not matter to you. I tend to stick with regular elmers.

Toalpaz
Mar 20, 2012

Peace through overwhelming determination

Toalpaz posted:

What do we prefer...






Blue shadows or gray shadows... They have mars kind of bases.

Someone tell me whether the blue or gray is better so I can paint more. :B

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Toalpaz posted:

Someone tell me whether the blue or gray is better
Please don't bring American politics into unrelated threads. :v:

Also blue, because gray is too similar to my scheme and it contrasts nicely with the red Martian ground (I prefer the lighter base from the Suryat).

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

Gray, because if the light were reflecting off of the reddish martian floor it would give them a warm-toned hue

The Dregs
Dec 29, 2005

MY TREEEEEEEE!

Toalpaz posted:

Someone tell me whether the blue or gray is better so I can paint more. :B

I like the bluer one on the left.

Cricken_Nigfops
Oct 25, 2011

CROM!
I think the gray one matches the base better, but I also like the blue one

The Moon Monster
Dec 30, 2005

Toalpaz posted:

Someone tell me whether the blue or gray is better so I can paint more. :B

I like the grey better. IMO it has stronger contrast so the details come through better. This may just be a lighting/camera thing though, it's a bit yellow which makes the purple look good.

Toalpaz
Mar 20, 2012

Peace through overwhelming determination
hmmmmmmm :( thanks.

painting big shots in my local area were telling me to add some colour to my shadows... but yeah maybe I should have gone grey instead of blue. I just like blue though, I also have another army that's very bright desaturated yellow (bleached bone?) so I didn't want them to look similar.

im pooping!
Nov 17, 2006


well painted a few orks, painted my first space marines (i chose to paint them like space wolves because ultramarines are lame), painted some death guard and was about to paint my 3 rievers like space wolves. unfortunately the primaris dudes arent clearly space wolves, but my plans have changed today after receiving in the mail a loving AMAZING WARP CRATE






i am so god damned excited rn

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib

Toalpaz posted:

hmmmmmmm :( thanks.

painting big shots in my local area were telling me to add some colour to my shadows... but yeah maybe I should have gone grey instead of blue. I just like blue though, I also have another army that's very bright desaturated yellow (bleached bone?) so I didn't want them to look similar.

Go with brown/red shadows, then.

Basically, shadows will tend to get take on colors from around them. In a Mars-type area, you'd expect more brown and red in the shadows. This will help tie them into the bases.

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

So I want to get back into painting again after being on hiatus for a few years. I have an emperor's children army that I've been struggling with for a while now.

I started out using colors I'm not too pleased with now that I look at them again. When I started this army, I basically started painting a year prior. I started off with Tau which turned out great for a first shot.





I got a bit too cocky with the colors on some of the emperor's children, and I've just decided to start new. I have a few questions first:

What is the preferred method of removing paint nowadays? Is it still a simple green bath then toothbrush?

Also, anyone have suggestions for painting pink? I bought Emperor's Children and Fulgrim pinks thinking of using the EC for base and Fulgrim for the highlights, but what about the shade? Carroburg seems too dark, would I be better off with one of the new contrast paints?

I missed digging through this thread and seeing all the support that goes on, and some of the incredible paint jobs that make me want to throw everything in the dumpster.

:unsmith:

Sharks Dont Sleep
Mar 4, 2009

In pairing luxury automobiles with large predatory felines we have achieved reality ahead of schedule.

R0ckfish posted:

I finished up a drop pod, and this has got to be the model that annoyed me the most while painting it. Bits flop all over the place and I zero efforted the flames on this thing, but its done, so that's something


This is disgusting and I hate you. (Like what in the gently caress who makes a drop pod this gorgeous what are you even thinking.)

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013

Sharks Dont Sleep posted:

This is disgusting and I hate you. (Like what in the gently caress who makes a drop pod this gorgeous what are you even thinking.)

Thanks! Although, thinking is a bit too strong a word for the process involved.

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


With Sisters around the corner, I decided it's time to try and learn/practice doing black armor. (I actually considered changing to a different Order, just to escape the colour scheme, but it just looks too cool.)
I pushed myself on this one, and while this is the best I can do right now, I'm pretty sure the next one will come out better. It's still very much WIP, but I'm happy with the results, so decided to share!

Toalpaz
Mar 20, 2012

Peace through overwhelming determination

with a rebel yell she QQd posted:

With Sisters around the corner, I decided it's time to try and learn/practice doing black armor. (I actually considered changing to a different Order, just to escape the colour scheme, but it just looks too cool.)
I pushed myself on this one, and while this is the best I can do right now, I'm pretty sure the next one will come out better. It's still very much WIP, but I'm happy with the results, so decided to share!


That looks loving sick what colour is the middle sort of highlight on the skull knee? Teal?

E: siiiick. I meant to say siiiiick.

Toalpaz fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Nov 24, 2019

with a rebel yell she QQd
Jan 18, 2007

Villain


Toalpaz posted:

That looks loving suck what colour is the middle sort of highlight on the skull knee? Teal?

Close yeah, GW's Thunderhawk Blue.

Cricken_Nigfops
Oct 25, 2011

CROM!
Man, that looks amazingly good, keep at it, you've got it!

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Our D&D Group so far:



I have a couple Dragonborn (Lizardmen) to do next

SERPUS
Mar 20, 2004
Hairspray paint chipping question:

Let's say that I lay down a black primer first (and letting that cure for a few days), then applying the hairspray. Would using a Krylon paint+primer rattle can on top of that be permeable enough to chip afterwards?

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



I've had luck using hairspray to hold salt down. The second spray coat can be tricky to remove from just hairspray, but salt will come off with warm water and a toothbrush.

For just hairspray only, you might want to consider a light airbrushing of an acrylic.

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer
Been working on this primaris chaplain for a few weeks. It all started with wanting to incorporate yellow into the model somehow, so I went with the inside of the cloak.



I didn't have much inspiration for a while until I realized that this model was perfect for an homage to Samuel L Jackson's outfit in The Hateful Eight.



This is where I'm at so far after about a week of really pushing through, especially yesterday. Short of finding a cowboy hat, I'm really pleased with how it came out:



I used a bearded head from the fantastic Sternguard Veterans box that I picked up last weekend. Still some finished touches to do, the pauldrons, the bulk of the work is complete. I did Incubi darkness with a nuln wash for the jacket and still didn't quite get the really dark blue I wanted. Might try Drakenhof Nightshade per a fellow goon's recommendation. And I somehow managed to put two pupils on that don't look bad, that's a victory right there

Also last week I saw my LGS had an Inquisitor Coteaz model for $19 bucks. I thought about it for a few days and realized the combination of knowing it wasn't a bad Finecast model combined with the relatively low Finecast price was too good to pass up, so I grabbed it this morning.

Plus this model is absolutely perfect for Contrast:



Only took a couple hours with a few breaks mixed in!

Zaodai
May 23, 2009

Death before dishonor?
Your terms are accepted.



The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the iniquities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he, who in the name of charity and good will, shepherds the weak through the valley of darkness, for he is truly his brother’s keeper and the finder of lost children. I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who would attempt to poison and destroy my brothers. And you will know my name is the Lord when I lay my vengeance upon thee!

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!


This is so loving good.

DiHK
Feb 4, 2013

by Azathoth
You should memorize the fake bible passage for every time he does a litany.

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

Any tips for how I can go about painting a Lizardman in this scheme?



I was thinking about starting with a base of Ashin, then shading with Nuln before a Ashin touch up and building up highlights (Admin Grey, Dawnstone, etc)

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Anime_Otaku
Dec 6, 2009

DiHK posted:

You should memorize the fake bible passage for every time he does a litany.

GW should put them in the fluff.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply