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GigaFuzz posted:N-thing Biostrip 20. It works perfectly. Will require some minor scrubbing with a toothbrush to get the recesses, but better than anything else I've tried. You can leave plastics in it for days/weeks no problem, and works great on metal as well (possibly even better than acetone, which was my usual go-to for metal). Only problem I've ever had with biostrip - and it's not really their fault - is that the bases on Warmachine minis are a thin layer of softer textured plastic over a hard plastic core, and it stripped the soft plastic as well as the paint. e: top of the page, have some work in progress elephants 
Wolfsbane fucked around with this message at 11:05 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 10:59
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S.J. posted:Be warned, those things have super shallow details on some of the PC sized figs so don't feel too bad if you can't get much out of them. The larger stuff is pretty nice though imo. Thanks for the tips! I figured the Wizkids minis would be ok to experiment with a bit since they're dirt cheap, and that way I can get a feel for how the contrast paints work. I have watched a few YouTube vids where people tried several approaches (using a thin coat or two, slathering it on, glazing with it, etc.), but there's no substitute for hands-on experience.
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Dec 3, 2019 11:49
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Biostrip trip report: tested it on the spare Primaris marine by leaving him in there overnight. Took him out just now, rinsed and scrubbed with a toothbrush, and he was mostly down to bare plastic, with a few little bits that could be shifted with a longer soak and more scrubbing. I'm thinking at least 24 hours is the way to go, especially since one of the models I need to strip is the eldar model with the incredibly fragile rifle, so I'd like to minimise the amount of scrubbing I need to do. It did seem to denature the glue, though, and my push-fit marine came apart, which isn't too much of a problem. Overall I'm happy with it so far. The model looked like a horror show when I first pulled it out of the tub, and left a gnarly reddy-black smear of paint residue in the biostrip. Between that, the gloopy consistency, and dunking the model in, the whole affair gave me Who Framed Roger Rabbit vibes, which is always fun. e: Now that I think of it, the marine was a free test model given out to folks at the shop to try out Contrast paints, so maybe the owner didn't glue it in the first place and just push-fitted it all together. Dr Snofeld fucked around with this message at 12:27 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 12:05
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WIP Death Guard, friend bought it back from Japan. First time trying my airbrush to blend smaller areas like this and I am 100% in love with the results. It really feels like cheating how smooth the blends are for marines. Makes me want to buy some more Plague Marines even though I have zero interest in playing the army. Opinions on a good color for the helmet visor? I was thinking a vibrant orange but open to any ideas.  
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Dec 3, 2019 12:11
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Always wanted to paint a few miniatures and finally have the time to do so. I bought a pack of WH40k Rubric Marines and am going to buy the paint supplies. In my shopping cart i have *Vallejo Extra Opaque 16-colors set *Army Painter Quickshade Washes set *Chaos Black Spray (for priming) *Corax White Spray (for zenith? highlight) *Army Painter Warpaint Quickshade Wash, as i read that this was very useful for the Army Painter shades *A Wet Pallette Does this look reasonable? Any big standouts or big things im missing? I also need some brushes, preferably a brush set as i assume that will be cheaper. Vallejo or Army Painter are my alternatives, any recommendations? And lastly i need glue. Back when i was a kid i had a period of model plane assembly and the glue i had then had a long thin metal syringe to help application. I cannot find any such bottles now, in the stores available to me. I have Army Painter or Citadel plastic glues available. Neither looks like they have a thin applicator. They cost the same, i guess ill just grab whichever one of those. Is there anything else i need?
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Dec 3, 2019 12:20
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Ineptitude posted:Always wanted to paint a few miniatures and finally have the time to do so. keep an eye out for tamiya extra thin for glue.
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Dec 3, 2019 12:37
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How is contrast paint compared to just painting in inks over white primer, which is how I've been painting for years?
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Dec 3, 2019 12:39
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Paragon8 posted:keep an eye out for tamiya extra thin for glue. They have Tamiya Cement, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, Tamiya Limonene Cement, and the QUICK SET versions of each All of these bottles come with a brush in the cap, instead of a thin syringe-like applicator
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Dec 3, 2019 12:42
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Citadel plastic glue does have a thin metal applicator on it.
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Dec 3, 2019 13:05
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S.J. posted:Be warned, those things have super shallow details on some of the PC sized figs so don't feel too bad if you can't get much out of them. The larger stuff is pretty nice though imo. Thanks for this. After finishing those Deathwatch I immediately ordered some of the easy build intercessors and reivers along with the blood angel contrast paint just to see how easy it would be to paint those up with a contrast. So I'll keep this in mind, especially around the reiver skull mask.
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Dec 3, 2019 13:12
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Cinara posted:WIP Death Guard, friend bought it back from Japan. First time trying my airbrush to blend smaller areas like this and I am 100% in love with the results. It really feels like cheating how smooth the blends are for marines. Makes me want to buy some more Plague Marines even though I have zero interest in playing the army. Definitely orange. It'll compliment the green very well and will pop out more.
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Dec 3, 2019 14:56
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Ineptitude posted:Always wanted to paint a few miniatures and finally have the time to do so. Thank you for this post - I'm hoping to paint something other than cockroaches during winter break, and have been trying to figure out the same 'starter kit' you are. My SO wants to go in on half of a big kit - would the 72-color Vallejo set be good? Or the larger Army Painter set?
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Dec 3, 2019 15:13
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Im just as new as you are, my post was a question so don't buy the items i listed just yet before someone with some experience gives us some pointers. With further research i have started leaning away from the Extra Opaque set and will probably go for the Vallejo Game Color Intro Set. The intro set has a few important colors that the Opaque set lacks, like black and white. It also has some metallic colors. Finally, the Opaque colors are apparently not that great to paint with for beginners. Be vary of overlap if you buy multiple Vallejo paint sets, if you buy the Specialist and the Leather&Metal sets you get everything in the Metallics set or example. If you get Intro, Advanced, Specialist and Leather&Metal you get most of their range.
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Dec 3, 2019 15:38
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Wolfsbane posted:e: top of the page, have some work in progress elephants These look great. What's the recipe for the grey skin and ridges of the one on the right? I may want to do my rockgut trolls similarly if it's not too time consuming.
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Dec 3, 2019 16:03
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Ineptitude posted:Always wanted to paint a few miniatures and finally have the time to do so. Yeah, I'm super new to painting minis, like only a couple months, and I started out with the army painter starter kit and the army painter wash kit. Starter kit has a bunch of good starter colors like a blue, yellow, green, red, black, white, and a flesh and leather paint. The was kit has a bunch of washes like blue and purple I don't know what to do with, but their "dark tone" is essentially nuln oil and strong tone is earth shade. I've been getting mileage out of the flesh tone from the starter kit and the flesh wash.
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Dec 3, 2019 16:27
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I got back into painting last year so here are some of my thoughts: The army painter washes are great but for 90% of what youre starting out doing the strong tone and dark tone will be enough. You'll also likely use them more than the others anyway so if you do decide to get the set later on it wont be bad having extras of those two. I started out with the army painter brushes and they will be OK to start with but once you get a couple models under your belt you're going to benefit greatly from getting a better brush. Still it will be good to have the army painter ones around since drybrushing and mixing paints are good things to have old beat up brushes for. I really like the vallejo paints, I cant speak for getting a big set but its not the worst thing to have. I just bought a bunch of paints I liked and then kept slowly adding to it. If you dont live near a store that carries the paints the set could be a good way to go. I also eventually picked up this stand to hold them and it was money well spent.
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Dec 3, 2019 17:04
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Ineptitude posted:They have Tamiya Cement, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, Tamiya Limonene Cement, and the QUICK SET versions of each Extra Thin Cement is the one you want. Pretty sure it's got kind of a light lime green label and cap/brush handle. It sets pretty quickly on its own, but it'll give you enough time to reposition if you gently caress something up. The Extra Thin flows really well, so capillary action will do a lot of your work for you. Keep in mind that plastic cements are not glue - they work by melting the plastic, which then fuses to the plastic you're mushing it up against. If you're working with any kind of metal, it's not going to do you much good, and you'd want a superglue instead.
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Dec 3, 2019 17:19
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i am also new but i havent got more than the basic vallejo game color set and the set of army painter washes. i have been having fun trying different mixes of paint for my dudes. for instance i have dark green and goblin green in my paint set, but found mixing dark green and yellow makes an amazing bright green great for slime and radioactive glow. also i think it helps differentiate my minis from others as im making my own colors. my death guard for instance instead of straight up 'death guard green' is a mix of goblin green, brown and bone white which makes a more grim, dark green. my space wolves are a mix of gray, blue and white. what im saying is you can practice blending and glazing techniques much better if you have fewer bottles to work with, which granted might not be your thing, but it certainly costs less and maybe im projecting but imo it can only be beneficial when starting out to have practice doing those things. *also pro noob tip: base coat your weapons gray and use several coats of black wash to darken them and you can mostly avoid doing highlights on them im pooping! fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 17:26
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Cinara posted:WIP Death Guard, friend bought it back from Japan. First time trying my airbrush to blend smaller areas like this and I am 100% in love with the results. It really feels like cheating how smooth the blends are for marines. Makes me want to buy some more Plague Marines even though I have zero interest in playing the army. Looking good! I did yellow on mine, although some of them are red.  
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Dec 3, 2019 18:43
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Wolfsbane posted:e: top of the page, have some work in progress elephants gently caress yeah Titans own, these are looking great.
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Dec 3, 2019 19:27
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Zuul the Cat posted:Looking good! I did yellow on mine, although some of them are red. Nice! Why do some models look so «crisp» e.g. yours while some look «blotchy»?
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Dec 3, 2019 19:38
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Flash is not a friend to miniature photography
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Dec 3, 2019 19:46
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Cricken_Nigfops posted:Flash is not a friend to miniature photography   Flash works fine for miniature photography.
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Dec 3, 2019 20:54
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Ineptitude posted:Nice! Settings, maybe? I use my iPhone 7+ for my photos.
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Dec 3, 2019 21:04
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Sisters of Battle Week .5 Update
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Dec 3, 2019 21:05
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Booley posted:
No fair using a lightbox.
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Dec 3, 2019 21:30
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Cricken_Nigfops posted:No fair using a lightbox. I do not own a light box.
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Dec 3, 2019 21:37
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Booley posted:I do not own a light box. You should post a guide on how you get such amazing images.
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Dec 3, 2019 22:13
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There's a lot to taking good pictures but step 1, always step 1, forever, is: MORE LIGHT when someone's camera phone is using the flash it's a dead giveaway they're in low light conditions and that is going to result in not great photos 99% of the time
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Dec 3, 2019 22:16
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Ineptitude posted:Always wanted to paint a few miniatures and finally have the time to do so. Zenithal highlight. The bottle of Revell plastic glue I have sitting next to me right now has a long thin metal tube applicator, if thats any help. I'd also pick up a cheap tube of gel superglue from somewhere, useful for jobs the plastic glue isnt up for, and stays exactly where you put it. For basing you might want to pick up some PVA glue (I think americans call it Elmers glue?). Again, big bottles are cheap as hell, and great for sticking sand/static grass/flock to bases. Bigger rocks use the aforementioned superglue. As for brushes; To start with you really only need 2-3 brushes. A small one and a bigger one. If you want, also a drybrush. Bigger one is for basecoating, smaller one is for more detail work. My general workhorse brushes are an army painter basecoat brush and an army painter highlight brush, but thats more because thats what my local game shop stocks rather than any particular brand preference, more or less any brand is fine*. Some truly great miniature painters use crappy cheap brushes from a craft store, so I personally dont put much value in buying a more expensive brush, especially when starting out. If you find the brushes with triangular grips more comfortable in your hand or whatever then get those, but honestly, any brush which comes to a good point and isnt ridiculously thick will do the basic job of putting paint on the miniature. I've just bought about 10 brushes off've wish for £1, I figure if I get 1-2 useable brushes out of that I'm doing okay, and the rest can be relegated to drybrushing or applying PVA glue to bases (or painting sand on bases where the glue hasnt quite dried because I am impatient) and other poo poo you wouldnt wish on your good brushes. I will report back if they ever arrive. I will say I'm not in love with the army painter drybrush. The bristles are way stiffer that I would like for a drybrush, but again, thats largely personal preference. I've wound up doing most of my drybrushing with a really soft brush I got in a pack of assorted brushes for about £2, or an old clapped out army painter detail brush that doesnt hold a point any more for drybrushing small areas. Is you want to save a little money you can easily make your own wet pallette. A sandwich tub with a sealable lid and a thin sponge cut to fit, top with some parchment paper/baking parchment. There are loads of youtube videos that go into making one. It is very much not difficult in any way. You might want to chuck a metallic paint or two in there as well, I dont see any metallics in the vallejo paint set. A gun metal (any dirty silver will do, GW call theirs Boltgun Metal I think, other companies go with names like "gun metal" or "chain mail" or "plate armour") and a brass or gold at the very least. Maybe a shining silver as well for highlighting the gun metal. If you are going straight in with attempting non-metallic metals, then ignore this. *and by fine I mean "will have some good brushes and some lovely brushes in the same range with precious little consistancy".
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Dec 4, 2019 00:55
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I finished up some Intercessors this morning, quite enjoyable to paint.
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Dec 4, 2019 00:59
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richyp posted:Sisters of Battle Week .5 Update Man, I'm hoping we don't have to wait long for the proper Sisters release. What color blue did you use? It looks a little like the blue color I thought about using for SOBs when I got them (Brilliant Blue; the Citadel colors being Thousand Sons Blue and Ahriman Blue).
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Dec 4, 2019 03:40
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Y’all are real good at painting
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Dec 4, 2019 08:27
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SiKboy posted:Advice Thanks! I remember Revell from my model plane era, like 25 years ago. They aren't around here any more. I see there is a brush pack with those 3 brushes you mention so ill get that. I don't mind buying things, e.g. a palette or a handle, that are "easily" DIY'ed as they don't really cost that much to begin with. The handle for example costs 55 of my money and i make ~350 per hour so i could spend an hour making a handle or i could spend an hour working overtime and buy 10 handles. I am honestly leaning towards buying Citadel paint, the only thing making me reluctant is the fact that they don't come as dropper bottles. The price per bottle (disregarding volume) is the same as Army Painter and Vallejo here and i doub't ill use up any of the bottles in the first place so the volume doesn't matter that much. What i am thinking of doing is buying a set of the paints listed for one of the models i've bought then watch the GW tutorial where they paint said model and follow that guide step by step, then try the same methods again with different colors and do my own color scheme. This is much easier to do if i have the GW paints and don't need to spend a bunch of time investigating which Vallejo paint matches the GW paints in the tutorial. I think i will learn much faster this way than just reading up and then going entirely on my own.
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Dec 4, 2019 09:13
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Max Wilco posted:What color blue did you use? It looks a little like the blue color I thought about using for SOBs when I got them (Brilliant Blue; the Citadel colors being Thousand Sons Blue and Ahriman Blue). The base blue was 1k sons (I primed black for a change so it took a few coats vs the 1 it normally takes over grey). The final coat was blended with a light blue, it's one of those edge paints, Baroque or Baha something blue.
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Dec 4, 2019 14:07
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Does anyone have a decent technique or guide to quickly paint a bunch of terrain for a game like Necromunda? I finally want to get around to painting all the pieces I have from the 2 Necromunda box sets and am thinking of priming black, airbrushing silver, then just dry brushing with brown and orange to make it look kind of like rusty old neglected industrial. If anyone has better ideas that are also speedy I am open to suggestions.
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Dec 4, 2019 15:31
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nesbit37 posted:Does anyone have a decent technique or guide to quickly paint a bunch of terrain for a game like Necromunda? I finally want to get around to painting all the pieces I have from the 2 Necromunda box sets and am thinking of priming black, airbrushing silver, then just dry brushing with brown and orange to make it look kind of like rusty old neglected industrial. If anyone has better ideas that are also speedy I am open to suggestions. Yes, but use gunmetal or something instead of silver. You can also use dark colors like red green and blue for your base, and then dry brush gunmetal-brown-orange. That’s how I did my Ryza pattern ruins terrain.
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Dec 4, 2019 15:44
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this video has some cool ideas that even if you didn’t use all of them will probably have some pointers you might find useful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbIWBC9o_YQ
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Dec 4, 2019 15:45
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Hello there. Does this winterish camo looks good to you?
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Dec 4, 2019 15:54
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Iceclaw posted:Hello there. Does this winterish camo looks good to you? Extremely.
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Dec 4, 2019 15:58
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