|
Most likely a light leak from somewhere in your camera. Especially if the second frame doesn't have it if it was taken in quick succession. A sad snype
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 07:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 08:48 |
|
|
need some more info. what camera? what lens? how are you developing? what chemistry? what agitation? how long? what development gear? how far did you push? does that show up on the negative itself?
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 09:42
|
|
|
Wild EEPROM posted:need some more info. Pentax ME Super SMC Pentax M 50mm 1.7 Developed at home (not sure I'm reading this one right, I haven't had my coffee yet) Ilfosol 3 9:1 solution About 10 seconds every minute I pushed the film 1 stop and pushed development one stop so the time was 13:30 It's showing up on my negatives
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 14:23
|
|
|
Took my Kiev 60 out for a walk. Photowalk0029.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr  Photowalk0026.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr  Photowalk0018.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr  Photowalk0017.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr  Photowalk0015.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 18:02
|
|
|
Dudeabides posted:Pentax ME Super I also have an ME Super and had funny flares like that before I changed the seals on the film door. All I did was stuff some black wool yarn in the crevices and all of my rolls have been good since. I still have an odd dark band across the top of the frame once in a while but I think that's a problem with the shutter or light meter.
|
|
#
?
Nov 20, 2019 19:58
|
|
|
I'll be developing some Delta 400 120 soon, and the developers I have on hand are HC 110 and Rodinal. Anyone recommend one over the other? I don't want a grainy mess, and I keep on reading conflicting things about Rodinal.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2019 17:10
|
|
|
Developer doesn't have a huge impact on the graininess of your negatives. A grainy film will be grainy regardless of what you develop it in. HC-110 has some solvent action so it will soften the edges of the grain clumps a little and give the appearance of smoother grain. Rodinal has no solvent action so the grain your film has it what you're gonna get. Rodinal may give the appearance of more apparent sharpness because of this while HC-110 might lose a little sharpness but you'd have to make pretty huge prints to notice that. Delta 400 has extremely fine grain for a 400 speed film but its still a 400 speed film so its going to have noticeable grain. The FilmDev database can show you examples of what both would look like. Rodinal HC-110 Flickr as well: Rodinal HC-110
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2019 17:50
|
|
|
Sauer posted:Developer doesn't have a huge impact on the graininess of your negatives. A grainy film will be grainy regardless of what you develop it in. HC-110 has some solvent action so it will soften the edges of the grain clumps a little and give the appearance of smoother grain. Rodinal has no solvent action so the grain your film has it what you're gonna get. Rodinal may give the appearance of more apparent sharpness because of this while HC-110 might lose a little sharpness but you'd have to make pretty huge prints to notice that. Delta 400 has extremely fine grain for a 400 speed film but its still a 400 speed film so its going to have noticeable grain. Nice! Thanks for the guidance. Think I'm gonna go with Rodinal 1:25.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2019 19:04
|
|
|
My ME Super started doing something odd this morning. I had a roll of Ektar that I had started shooting a few weeks ago still in there, so I carried it around taking some photos to finish the roll, but I noticed that several times when I pressed the shutter button, it wouldn't expose (like what normally happens after an exposure but before advancing). When I advanced again, it would react properly. I thought at first that I had forgotten to advance the roll, but it kept happening even after I knew for sure that I had. Also, I noticed that I could keep advancing the lever again and again if I tried — I had thought that the advancer locked each time to prevent advancing again, but maybe I'm misremembering and thinking of my Zenit. I had plenty of the roll left, so unless I knocked something loose somehow it shouldn't be at the end of the roll. It's problematic since now I guess I have a bunch of blank frames towards the end of the roll. Is this something that should fix itself with a new roll of film, maybe? I should clarify that I have no idea what I'm doing. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2019 20:57
|
|
|
Well dang so much for using Gary's Camera Repair anymore. The shutter miscocking may be caused by weak batteries. Try changing them out. The winder behaving that way can be caused by several things listed by ease of repair: - Take the lens off. Grab the body firmly in one hand. Wack it really hard with the bottom of your other hand. Its possible the rewinding pin isn't seated properly. Don't be afraid of this process its an actual Pentax repair technique (seriously). - The mirror cocking lever is bent out of place. This is accessed through the bottom of the camera and its the topmost lever. Should be relatively centered but if its bent towards the front of the body it won't work. Not terribly common problem though. - The winding locking lever is bent or sheared off. This is a common problem with the ME, ME Super, MG and MV where a small metal bit inside the winding mechanism gets bent out of place or broken off by overzealous winding and the winder won't lock properly after advancing a frame. If not broken its an easy fix as its immediately accessible once the top is off but if broken the camera is scrap unless a part can be sourced from a beater. I'd be pretty annoyed if this was the problem as checking this part its pretty much step number two in the repair manual after taking the top off and Gary should know what he's doing. Try wiggling the winding lever up and down while winding on and see if it works while doing that. If wacking the bottom of the camera doesn't get it back in working order PM me and we can arrange a refund for it. I sold it as a working camera. Edit: And I'm afraid to say that you're not just missing frames at the end of the roll. Anywhere you had to cock twice will have a blank frame. Sauer fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Nov 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2019 00:09
|
|
|
Sauer posted:Well dang so much for using Gary's Camera Repair anymore. The shutter miscocking may be caused by weak batteries. Try changing them out. The winder behaving that way can be caused by several things listed by ease of repair: Looks like the "whacking the hell out of it" method  has sorted it out, at least for now, so you may not have to write Gary off just yet. I have a few more frames left on this roll, so I tested it with a couple of sacrificial exposures and everything seems to function okay? I don't leave for another couple weeks, so I'll just run another roll or two through it and develop and see what happens. I moved into a new apartment between the last time I used it and now, so maybe it just got jostled around too much in the truck or something. Aside from this morning, it has worked excellently.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2019 01:28
|
|
|
Glad to hear it seems okay. Let me know if it gives you any trouble.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2019 01:39
|
|
|
Hey yall, I'm trying to figure out some stuff for Christmas and so I was wondering - What are some video/camera equipment in the $50-$150 range that has made your life a lot easier on a daily basis while shooting? For what it's worth, I pretty much exclusively shoot video.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2019 02:00
|
|
|
d0grent posted:Hey yall, I'm trying to figure out some stuff for Christmas and so I was wondering - What are some video/camera equipment in the $50-$150 range that has made your life a lot easier on a daily basis while shooting? I think you're misinterpreting the term "film" in the thread title
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2019 09:02
|
|
|
AF posted:I think you're misinterpreting the term "film" in the thread title Counterpoint: I just bought a Nikon Nikkorex 8mm film camera at a thrift shop for two bucks Though I’d guess shooting in 8mm film fulfils none of his list of requirements 
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2019 12:41
|
|
|
I think C200 is a good film (and super cheap at B&H)  
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2019 00:52
|
|
|
All of Fuji's cheap films poo poo all over Kodak's.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2019 03:43
|
|
|
the only fuji film that shits over any of kodak's film is provia
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2019 05:05
|
|
|
Wild EEPROM posted:the only fuji film that shits over any of kodak's film is provia Acros 
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2019 05:45
|
|
|
Spedman posted:Acros 
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2019 07:27
|
|
|
I would like that 160ns please sir.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2019 14:05
|
|
|
buy my boxes of acros 4x5
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2019 17:07
|
|
|
ansel autisms posted:buy my boxes of acros 4x5 Give me your 4x5
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2019 10:44
|
|
|
Changes in the world of Kodak film prices: https://kamerastore.com/breaking-news-kodak-to-raise-prices-on-all-film-in-2020-jan-1st/
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2019 17:36
|
|
|
Any ideas on how much prices will increase? Bracing for a 50% hike.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2019 19:33
|
|
|
I wish Ultrafine Xtreme came in 3200 speed. I bulk load their 400 but I’d like something better suited for low light. It looks like the only native high speed options are Delta 3200 or T-max 3200. I’m going to try pushing the Ultrafine a few stops to see how it goes. Sounds like I can expect some elevated contrast, which I’m not too keen about. I’m not necessarily opposed to buying one of the other stocks mentioned above but being someone who definitely still has a lot to learn it’s nice having a cheap option.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2019 22:03
|
|
|
BTW, anyone know of any film sales going on? All of the promotional stuff that makes it to my inbox from the usual suspects seems to be for digital gear and whatnot.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2019 22:13
|
|
|
So while cleaning out a closet I found my dad’s old Pentax Super Program which is convenient as I was thinking about 35MM. Given it’s spent over 20 years in a bag stuffed in a closet I’m going to take it to a shop to have it looked over, cleaned, and lubricated if need. Before I go through all that and pay for it, though, is this a decent camera to get back into 35MM film with?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 14:26
|
|
|
Absolutely. I'll love my rehabbed Super Program for as long as it holds out. Assuming that the guts are functional, you should have a fully decent camera for cheap after a CLA. Don't be afraid to mail it out for service if the quote you get locally is high, too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 14:53
|
|
|
What is a good price for a CLA anyway? I have an ME Super that could use some TLC
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 15:37
|
|
|
My last electronic shutter Pentax CLA was $68 by Eric Hendrickson. I'd personally not want to deviate too far from that for something that's not special or mechanical, but it's entirely possible that film camera service costs have shot up just as film body prices have in the year since I had it done.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 17:45
|
|
|
Speaking of getting back into film photography I was eyeing used Nikon F6 bodies with tax return money next year since they seem to go for around $900 in excellent condition from what I could which is like $1,500 cheaper than new. Has anyone had any experience with both this camera and buying used? Is there anything I would look out for or wary of when looking at a used one?
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 18:02
|
|
|
y tho Get an F100 instead, it's basically the same camera and you can get it for like 100 bucks
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 19:02
|
|
|
Much as I love my F4, I really want to buy an F100 so I can just buy G lenses. Alternately I can use my F4 to beat someone and take their F100.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 20:37
|
|
|
That’s why I carry my SR-T around in a sock.
|
|
#
?
Dec 5, 2019 22:01
|
|
|
Martytoof posted:Alternately I can use my F4 to beat someone and take their F100. You might not actually win that one. The F100 is all metal under that sticky rubber (except for the back for some reason). But yes get an F100, they're real good.
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 00:26
|
|
|
Sauer posted:You might not actually win that one. The F100 is all metal under that sticky rubber (except for the back for some reason). Yeah but the F4 is heavy. Real heavy
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2019 04:44
|
|
|
I'm wrapping up a beginning film class and was looking at an F4S for the 1/8000 shutter speed and nice Nikkor glass (and they look cool as hell) but my ME super has been a sweetheart and is way more discreet. Perhaps I'll get one later down the road
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2019 11:58
|
|
|
ME Super/MX is basically the apex of viewfinders in SLRs. So big and so bright. Pentax glass is really good too, while it doesn’t have quite the variety of Nikkor what there is is all pretty good. I really like Nikkor glass too though. And nowadays there is no downside to cherry-picking the best glass out of each system.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2019 05:40
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 08:48 |
|
|
Really! I didn't know the viewfinder was that well regarded. It is amazing; I wish I could have a viewfinder that large and bright on every camera. I read the F4 is supposed to have a pretty nice viewfinder, too. Which reminds me of a question I wanted to ask F4 users: are you able to easily focus manual lenses with the stock focusing screen (which if I understand correctly, has no split image) or did you go out and replace it with a different focusing screen? Going off this page as context: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf4/screens/index.htm
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2019 07:31
|
|