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I don't think it'd be a problem to run it 15' to the gable end, especially if you use rigid duct. I know a lot of people don't like soffit vents, but I'm not sure it's that big of an issue (as long as one uses a soffit vent kit and not a wall vent flapper). I try to put as few holes through the roof as I can as a general rule. You'd be fine having it in the soffit temporarily at the very least.
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Dec 3, 2019 17:23
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm sure the answer is "don't do that," BUT I'm going to ask anyway: Unless your ceiling is very well sealed and insulated I would avoid blocking off soffit vents in the winter if at all possible. You want to encourage your roof vents to pull in cold air from outside your home through the soffits rather than sucking the heated humid air from your living space. Humidity can and will condense on the underside of your roof sheeting in the winter which leads to mold. In your situation I would route the bathroom vent to the gable end, and mount your termination cover on the side of the house or punch through the roof there
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Dec 3, 2019 20:11
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I have a bedroom-sized room in the basement that has my washer/dryer in it and a cut out with the furnace/water heater in it. The floor is just raw concrete right now. I'm looking for a fairly straightforward solution to finish the floor for reasonably cheap that also looks deliberate and finished. Any ideas? I'm currently thinking of just sealing it and calling it good, but I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of something cooler or better.
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Dec 4, 2019 04:57
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Do you have a desire for a certain feel underfoot or just literally something that doesn't look like plain concrete? Some options: Epoxy LVT (luxury vinyl tile) Linoleum roll or peel and stick squares Carpet (literally the worst idea given your W/D and heater there)
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Dec 4, 2019 05:20
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I guess normal feel, so not that like anti-slip spikey textured epoxy or whatever. Also fairly easy to clean. And yeah, I figured we wouldn't really want carpet in there... I'll check out some of those!
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Dec 4, 2019 05:37
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B-Nasty posted:If you really need the power, just get a corded version to begin with. cowofwar posted:I’m going to replace a flat mirror in our bathroom with a recessed cabinet and have a couple questions: 2: Snip the studs, put the appropriate sized pieces of wood inside the metal studs, screw it in both sides, top and bottom, and frame the cabinet in wood like you would normally. DrBouvenstein posted:I need to put an exhaust fan in my bathroom. Somehow, it doesn't have one. I've been putting this off because my "attic" is a teeny, tiny crawlspace of an attic with no room, and I have to move carefully on the ceiling joists, there's no plywood or anything put down to kneel on. quote:But, since it's winter, I don't want to have to go up on my roof to install the vent exhaust. My own drat fault for not doing it earlier. mutata posted:I have a bedroom-sized room in the basement that has my washer/dryer in it and a cut out with the furnace/water heater in it. The floor is just raw concrete right now. I'm looking for a fairly straightforward solution to finish the floor for reasonably cheap that also looks deliberate and finished. Any ideas? I'm currently thinking of just sealing it and calling it good, but I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of something cooler or better. Also, since I recently had a scare, you and everyone else should please put carbon monoxide detectors at the top of each staircase, outside of the furnace room/closet, and either in the hallway outside sleeping areas or in each bedroom. I got ultra paranoid and thought I was being poisoned in my sleep, but it turned out that was just another major anxiety thing and I have working detectors up and since I'm supposed to check my 4 gas detector I use for UrbEx monthly, I check it outside and sweep the house just in case (I'm aware that this is not a thing that normal people do, but I have depression and anxiety with compulsive behaviors and a 4 gas detector, so bear with me).
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Dec 4, 2019 05:53
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cowofwar posted:I’m going to replace a flat mirror in our bathroom with a recessed cabinet and have a couple questions: I just did this and had great success with paint stirrers. Pry up the top corner, stick in a paint stick, and then pull it down along the wall increasing the gap. I used another paint stick to find the parts where it was glued and poked at that while gently tapping with a mallet. Mine was glued with just 6 big circle globs of glue. Be sure you have the mirror prepped right and the right PPE. I covered the whole mirror in clear packing tape and wore glasses and gloves.
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Dec 4, 2019 06:39
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GWBBQ posted:
Ok, thanks. I'll just go to the gable end. Although I did overestimate my fan...it's only 60 CFM...hopefully that is still strong enough to push the 15' or so...again, still a small bathroom, but with the longer amount of ductwork maybe I should return it for a larger one?
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Dec 4, 2019 15:47
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mutata posted:I have a bedroom-sized room in the basement that has my washer/dryer in it and a cut out with the furnace/water heater in it. The floor is just raw concrete right now. I'm looking for a fairly straightforward solution to finish the floor for reasonably cheap that also looks deliberate and finished. Any ideas? I'm currently thinking of just sealing it and calling it good, but I thought I'd ask if anyone knows of something cooler or better. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Flooring-Vinyl-Flooring-Resilient-Flooring-Vinyl-Plank-Flooring/LifeProof/N-5yc1vZbzjzZets Had a few contractors suggest this to me (after I'd already rebuilt my basement subfloor  ). It apparently needs no additional work/underlayment to lay on concrete, while still allowing the concrete to breathe.
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Dec 6, 2019 01:14
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What is a good store to get ball bearings appropriate for kids toys in size? An auto store like AutoZone or should I try to find a skateboard shop or something?
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Dec 6, 2019 01:59
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McMaster-Carr
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Dec 6, 2019 02:19
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AliExpress
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Dec 6, 2019 03:15
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Regular skateboard bearings? Buy them in packs of 10 or whatever from Amazon or eBay. Unusually sized ones McMaster-Carr but be prepared to pay.
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Dec 6, 2019 04:48
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That's not a critical application so eBay.
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Dec 6, 2019 07:03
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If I am redoing a bathroom floor with LVT and the walls with tile, which do I do first? I would prefer to do the walls, just to avoid damage from mortar or grout or whatever getting on the floor, but I have a feeling it would look better to do the floor and then the tile on top of it. Hell, for that matter, do I need some sort of transition between floor and wall? I guess they make tiles that are meant to be down against the floor that sort of "slope out" at the bottom? I'm sure they have an official name I don't know, should I get those?
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Dec 6, 2019 16:00
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Shouldn't the LVT be free floating? If so, then you'd probably want to do walls first, then floor, then trim to cover the gap between wall and floor. This should also make it easier to do any floor work/repairs later without having to screw around with the wall.
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Dec 6, 2019 16:19
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Alarbus posted:Shouldn't the LVT be free floating? If so, then you'd probably want to do walls first, then floor, then trim to cover the gap between wall and floor. This should also make it easier to do any floor work/repairs later without having to screw around with the wall. See, I wasn't sure if a tiled wall with non-tiled floor would have trim...my current bathroom floors are linoleum (or maybe just vinyl?) and tile, and there's no trim, just tile down to the floor. Edit: Something like this is what I was thinking it would look like:  It looks like the base tile on the bottom row is on top of the floor, no trim of any kind. Edit: Ok, I guess I will need something since I need to leave gaps with LVT from the wall...I'm thinking I can put a ledger board up at the height of whatever trim I use, tile the wall with that in place, then I can remove it, do the floor, and then install trim. Or I guess I can do trim first, then floor, and put in shoe moulding to cover the gap? V V V I just don't like tile floors...cold, and like 90% of the ones I've seen are always cracked, usually around the toilet. I don't trust myself to install one well enough to not also crack around the toilet. V V V DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Dec 6, 2019 |
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Dec 6, 2019 17:39
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I think that asthetically no one has probably done tile walls into LVT floor before? I agree that you really do want some sort of trim to cover the transition and keep the floor free-floating and easily repairable. I guess my question would be if you are going to the trouble to tile the walls why not also tile the floor?
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Dec 6, 2019 17:45
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The crux here is that there will be a transition, and the amount you want to cover it will depend how big it is. If you have a flooring that will expand and contract, you will either need to stop short of the wall and cover the gap with trim, in which case you'd do the wall first, or you run the floor under the wall with enough room under there for it to expand and contract, in which case you'd do the floor first. If the flooring is dimensionally stable (like tile is) you can butt things up tighter and maybe just use some silicone or caulk along the gap, but just bear in mind that, expansion aside, the trim is there to provide you with a margin for error. If you want to go with no trim, you're going to need to get an absolutely spot on meeting of the two surfaces, across the whole length of the room, or at least, of a given tile. That means perfectly cut edges, perfectly aligned, no bumps or lumps or gradients. I'm guessing your current bathroom has the lino laid first and then the wall tile sat on top of that, and grouted in to the floor. In the case of tile the grout and independent planes of the tiles gives you a bit of that wiggle room back.
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Dec 6, 2019 18:00
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DrBouvenstein posted:Edit: Ok, I guess I will need something since I need to leave gaps with LVT from the wall...I'm thinking I can put a ledger board up at the height of whatever trim I use, tile the wall with that in place, then I can remove it, do the floor, and then install trim. Or I guess I can do trim first, then floor, and put in shoe moulding to cover the gap? DrBouvenstein posted:V V V I just don't like tile floors...cold, and like 90% of the ones I've seen are always cracked, usually around the toilet. I don't trust myself to install one well enough to not also crack around the toilet. V V V
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Dec 7, 2019 18:15
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DrBouvenstein posted:V V V I just don't like tile floors...cold, and like 90% of the ones I've seen are always cracked, usually around the toilet. I don't trust myself to install one well enough to not also crack around the toilet. V V V What kind of Stanley Steamers are you throwing down? What did those toilets do to you?
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Dec 7, 2019 19:20
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My gas furnace has a large set of screws of some sort that have a roughly 1-inch wide straight (i.e. not Philips) head on them securing the front panel. It looks like they're meant to be unscrewed with some sort of coin or something, but two of the screws are so tight that they're nearly impossible to actually remove without something that has more leverage than a screw. Are there any heavy duty tools that can remove screws that look like large versions of these? I was not the one that installed the gas furnace, if it matters.
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Dec 7, 2019 19:48
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Get a bigger flathead screwdriver. A screw style similar to that is called truss head.
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Dec 7, 2019 20:54
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Is there like, a lever or something you can use for a screwdriver then? Cause those are pretty loving stuck on there. And no, I'm not turning the wrong way.
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Dec 7, 2019 21:52
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Pollyanna posted:Is there like, a lever or something you can use for a screwdriver then? Cause those are pretty loving stuck on there. Grab the shaft with pliers? Or if it has a nut on the end, use that.
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Dec 7, 2019 22:04
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Pollyanna posted:Is there like, a lever or something you can use for a screwdriver then? Cause those are pretty loving stuck on there. Finding a screwdriver whom's head is the full width *and* thickness of the slot will help a lot in preventing destruction of the screw. In terms of leverage an impact driver is the nuclear option. A "T-grip" screwdriver will give more leverage also: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Facom-Screwdriver-Slotted-Screws-isoryl/dp/B00B1C6BE0/ Might be worth spraying some WD40 on there if they're seized, other people may have better chemical suggestions, particularly the car folks. I believe you can also hit it with a torch to loosen things up, so long as it's not flammable.
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Dec 7, 2019 23:07
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50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid is a really great penetrating oil for loosening seized parts. Give it overnight if you can.
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Dec 8, 2019 00:05
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Pollyanna posted:Is there like, a lever or something you can use for a screwdriver then? Cause those are pretty loving stuck on there. Is your flathead a square shaft? Push in with one hand, grab the shaft with a wrench in the other hand and unscrew it.
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Dec 8, 2019 00:26
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I'm planning on building a large desk for my home office; Considering this hardwood table top: https://www.bunnings.com.au/ash-2400-x-900-x-33mm-hardwood-laminated-panel_p0027024 With 3 of these legs, at each end and one in the centre; https://www.bunnings.com.au/rapidmesh-70-x-73-2-x-6cm-steel-tube-furniture-leg_p0130253 The desk will need to take; an iMac at 20lbs a second monitor at 20lbs and an A2 printer weighing 43lbs (22kg) With the printer on the left of the desk and the computers on the right, should I expect any bowing or warping on that type of table top? Thanks!
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Dec 8, 2019 06:10
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Sounds fine to me. The legs obviously are plenty strong enough, so really what matters is how rigid the tabletop is (pretty rigid, I would guess) and how far the load is from the legs. My guess is that you'd be fine even if you had two legs, one at each end, and put all the load in the middle of the table. With the extra support and more distributed load I very much doubt you'll have any trouble.
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Dec 8, 2019 06:58
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Sounds fine to me. The legs obviously are plenty strong enough, so really what matters is how rigid the tabletop is (pretty rigid, I would guess) and how far the load is from the legs. My guess is that you'd be fine even if you had two legs, one at each end, and put all the load in the middle of the table. With the extra support and more distributed load I very much doubt you'll have any trouble. Thank you! I'm extremely novice at all things DIY, so I appreciate it.
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Dec 8, 2019 07:26
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so i'm trying to clean up the area around my shower drain in my new apartment. basically, with the drain cap on, the water started standing after about 30s of turning the shower on. once i took the cap off, no standing water. i've tried finding a new cap, but few would fit, and even those that do don't seem to allow more through. so i think my only option is to not have a cap at all. so yea, i want to clean the area as best as possible. so here is where it started: pretty loving yuck. so i went to lowe's, and they told me to get some clr. after applying 5 or 6 rounds of that, then doing some lemon juice and salt treatment, i'm here:  better! but still pretty unsightly. where do i go from here? i really have no idea how to deal with the brownish/black ring around the drain itself. maybe some sort of sealant? i really don't know--i've never done anything like this.
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Dec 8, 2019 18:44
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abelwingnut posted:so i'm trying to clean up the area around my shower drain in my new apartment. basically, with the drain cap on, the water started standing after about 30s of turning the shower on. once i took the cap off, no standing water. i've tried finding a new cap, but few would fit, and even those that do don't seem to allow more through. so i think my only option is to not have a cap at all. so yea, i want to clean the area as best as possible. so here is where it started: Put a flat drain strainer over it and never look under it again.
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Dec 8, 2019 21:39
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 What is going on with this carpet? It was laid new only two years ago. I've noticed this bump thing appearing in the hallway as well. Is this something I can fix, or is it a sign of something more troubling like the floor of my house shifting?
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Dec 9, 2019 01:01
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bee posted:
Poorly stretched or poorly adhered to the tack strip is my guess. Call your original installer and ask?
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Dec 9, 2019 01:17
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bee posted:
The pad is collapsing. as it flattens, the carpet gets slack. The carpet should be detached, the pad replaced, and then reinstall/re-kick the carpet. Unless the carpet is shot or you hate it for other reasons. In which case, buy new carpet.
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Dec 9, 2019 01:19
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I'm in a condo and I'm having an issue where the hot water from my kitchen sink (nowhere else) is behaving strangely. It runs normally for up to a couple of seconds and then loses pressure until it's just a trickle. I can't move the hot water valve under the sink by hand and I don't have any tongue-and-groove pliers I'd need to check if that's the issue, but the fact that the pressure starts normally and dies suggests to me it's some other issue other than the valve being closed too much. The super says it's my issue because no other units are affected. No issues from any other faucets in my unit. Edit: Cold water runs totally normally. Kasumeat fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Dec 9, 2019 |
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Dec 9, 2019 01:57
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Jaded Burnout posted:I believe you can also hit it with a torch to loosen things up, so long as it's not flammable. Pollyanna, can we take a step back and ask why you are trying to get into your furnace?
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Dec 9, 2019 02:00
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Kasumeat posted:I'm in a condo and I'm having an issue where the hot water from my kitchen sink (nowhere else) is behaving strangely. It runs normally for up to a couple of seconds and then loses pressure until it's just a trickle. I can't move the hot water valve under the sink by hand and I don't have any tongue-and-groove pliers I'd need to check if that's the issue, but the fact that the pressure starts normally and dies suggests to me it's some other issue other than the valve being closed too much. The super says it's my issue because no other units are affected. No issues from any other faucets in my unit. I just dealt with this issue with ours, I'd first check your aerator and make sure it's cleaned out of any debris, then take out your mixing valve and clear that as well.
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Dec 9, 2019 02:18
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H110Hawk posted:Poorly stretched or poorly adhered to the tack strip is my guess. Call your original installer and ask? The installer said "looks like it needs re-stretching, our warranty for that is only 12 months". Didn't say anything about the padding though. I'm blown away that this sort of thing happens within two years of use though. The carpet in my parent's house lasted fifteen years before it started to look busted argh
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Dec 9, 2019 03:35
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