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BloodBag posted:All this because they put the key in the dash instead of in the column with a mechanical cylinder/lock. I'm looking forward to our next episode of 'poo poo that doesn't need to be electronic' when we visit electric parking brakes. Heh. You mean an electric parking brake like on... the B6 Passat? What could go wrong? Oh, there's a Facebook page for it: https://www.facebook.com/groups/172638656097468/ QuarkMartial posted:They're humans, and poo poo happens. It's not your DD, and they seem like they're trying to fix it and make it right. I wouldn't sweat it too much. I'm not worried, it's just an unusual position for me. They haven't given any indications of the local shop causing me problems, but I don't trust easily. 
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Nov 12, 2019 12:53
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EVERYWHERE 
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I think we've made progress. I finally talked to the shop and their owner seems to be pretty good. He looked at what the car was doing and took a look at the comfort module and found a couple corroded wires that process signal from the steering column lock. That explains all the weirdness. He's got another module coming on Monday and hopefully the car will take a recode and we'll be back in business.
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Nov 15, 2019 22:13
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Well, they called Monday to say they got the module and expected to have the car ready yesterday morning. Haven't heard from them since. 
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Nov 20, 2019 11:08
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Sounds like their shop burned down.
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Nov 20, 2019 11:21
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Rhyno posted:Sounds like their shop burned down. drat.
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Nov 20, 2019 11:56
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*buys a cheap beater VW* A month and 2 shops later: 
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Nov 20, 2019 13:37
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Few things are as expensive as a cheap German car.
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Nov 20, 2019 13:58
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A coworker that bought a $1500 Passat with 260k has learned this. Thankfully it's just the starter that's sidelined it for now. But it's the 1.8T, when we push started it the dash was a typical high mileage VW Christmas tree, and it has NO power whatsoever (once you get past about 3k it just falls flat on its face). I didn't bother pulling codes; it doesn't seem like it's in limp (it revs to redline... eventually), but a 1.8T 5 speed should be quite a bit quicker than my nearly 2 ton 160 hp Outback. Guessing dead turbo and/or clogged cat, on top of the dead starter, and he got a deer in the headlights look when I asked if he knew when the timing belt was last changed. I told him to get someone to slap a starter in it and list it for $1500 on Craigslist or FB Marketplace.
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Nov 21, 2019 06:35
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meatpimp posted:My $800 Avalon is right at $2k. All cheap cars end up being $2k. The VW is sitting at $2200 right now. Ended up replacing the steering column lock module AND the comfort module, which had a corroded trace going to the steering column lock module. Not entirely out of the realm of possibility, since the interior was wet and could have corroded the module. So I just need to lick my wounds and move on. There was no real option, since BOTH the steering column lock module and the comfort module need to be coded at the dealer, PLUS the local dealer is a motherfucker that won't recode used modules and will only recode brand new modules bought through them.  So I paid my tithe and drove home. Only to find the parking brake light on (note: Electronic parking brake) and 3/4 of the way home a SERIOUS front end shake started. Well, a parking brake lock/unlock cycle cleared the light and for some reason the front wheel is missing a lug nut and the others are loose. So, the reason for the shake is apparent, too. Who knows what the car has seen in the last 3 weeks, so hopefully I'm on track to start rebuilding. Time to get into it tomorrow, I've got some parts that have shown up and some brake parts to order. So I'm into it for STR money now. 
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Nov 23, 2019 01:12
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meatpimp posted:
BloodBag posted:All this because they put the key in the dash instead of in the column with a mechanical cylinder/lock. I'm looking forward to our next episode of 'poo poo that doesn't need to be electronic' when we visit electric parking brakes. 
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Nov 23, 2019 11:45
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meatpimp posted:The VW is sitting at $2200 right now. I think I've spent maybe $50 more, except.... I paid $2k for the car to start with. So I'm only into mine for $300ish in repairs so far.  O2 sensor ($160), axle ($69), shop time ($70)Granted, mine still has stuff wrong with it. But nothing that involves electronics or dealers.  Once I get new front rotors and figure out why the gently caress it shakes under throttle (it's either the other front half shaft, or the rear driveshaft... one of these is affordable, one of these is a YOU WANT HOW MANY LIMBS?! part), and replace the transmission cooler rubber lines (one looks like it's gonna snap if I sneeze near it), I think it'll be in good enough shape for short road trips to/from Dallas/Austin and even some wagon-camping.I plan to be into it for about $3000-3500 total, excluding any maintenance items (plugs, tires, etc) but including stuff like struts and an alignment. Which is still more than I'd like, but I started with a beat up $2k Subaru with working AC, a fresh timing belt, and a new alternator. Then hopefully I can get a couple of years out of it without any major issues. famous last words, for both me, and for cheap subarus randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Nov 23, 2019 |
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Nov 23, 2019 20:45
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STR posted:axle ($69) Nice
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Nov 23, 2019 21:10
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Nov 23, 2019 22:01
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Dynamic turn signals in the side mirrors installed. One was broken and out, cheap Chinese replacements were 20 bux. A bunch of worn out switches installed with cheap Chinese replacements. 20 bux. Battery properly mounted. New dent in the fender courtesy of the shop. Awesome. Car starts, which is good. PO said that he recently changed the oil, but I was going to do it for general principle. I drained it for a couple hours today and gave it a fresh fill of Valvoline 0W40 and a proper Mann filter. Old filter? Fram. Date code on it? March of 2015. It really likes the new oil, pulls harder and is definitely happier. Gotta take the front end off to investigate the lights. It does the dance on one side, but not the other, so I'm hoping it's a connector coming undone which is a known failure mode that has a TSB. So... progress, but it's like the BMW wagon right now... I don't trust it.
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Nov 25, 2019 23:49
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Right, never buying a VW. Or a BMW, I guess.
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Nov 26, 2019 20:59
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I mean.... my car has recent tires if you look at just treadwear. No rot or anything. But the date code shows they're 4 years old. Carfax poo poo shows this thing just didn't get driven much, ever (and mother of god, it pisses from the rear crank seal like it's been sitting for a decade).
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Nov 26, 2019 21:28
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Is 4 years old crazy or something? The ones on my car are 4 years old now and still have most of their tread. I only drive ~3k miles a year though. And I put winters on for nearly half the year.
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Nov 26, 2019 22:55
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Minnesota Mixup posted:Is 4 years old crazy or something? The ones on my car are 4 years old now and still have most of their tread. I only drive ~3k miles a year though. And I put winters on for nearly half the year.
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Nov 26, 2019 23:35
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Ok that sounds about right. I already inspect them twice a year. When I'm swapping over tires in the spring and fall I check both sets to make sure they're ok.
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Nov 26, 2019 23:46
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The Country Fire Service here in South Aus has been known to throw away a set of 6 truck tyres with literally 5000km on them because they've come off trucks in brigades that get very few callouts so the truck sits and sits and sits. They mandated a 10yr tyre replacement (we normally keep the trucks for 25 years before replacing them) period after a few trucks had very near misses when old tyres decided to be allergic to their tread belts.... I run two sets of tyres on my Landcruiser- One set is purely for touring (big BFG mud terrains) the other for daily driving (Toyo AT's). I'll run the daily tyres into the tread indicators before replacing them because I do 20-25K km a year and only usually get 60-70K out of a set of tyres, but I'll replace the touring tyres after they're 5 years old. Generally means Im selling tyres with 50-60% tread left, but I generally get 50% of the replacement cost back and it means im always running new tyres when im pushing them hard offroad.
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Nov 27, 2019 11:52
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How goes the VW adventures?
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Dec 10, 2019 16:02
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Hughmoris posted:How goes the VW adventures? I've been buried in house rebuilding stuff, so haven't updated the thread. I've been meaning to, though. I have materials for pads and rotors on all corners and a transmission fluid change sitting on the floor of the garage. Unfortunately, the flooring contractors have set up shop in there and I haven't even been able to get the cars IN the garage the past week, much less work on them. That should be changing today, though... just as the weather turns really cold. I'll turn up the heater in there and hopefully get to that work by the weekend. The car has been starting and running great. It is surprisingly quick and eager. It reminds me A LOT of my MKIV Jetta 1.8T that I did a bunch of APR stuff on -- it's super eager and will just shred the front tires up until about 45mph. It may not be the best for maximum dragstrip times, but drat, it's fun. I have had some results with the headlight AFS system, too. The "bulb out" error was for an H7 corner bulb in one of the headlights. I only noticed that such a thing exists by seeing that if I turned the wheel in the garage, there'd be a corner light on the left come on, but not on the right. So that's good and made the solid "bulb out" light go away, along with the "AFS Inactive" error message. BUT it can't be that easy. I have triggered a flashing "bulb out" light and the "AFS Inactive" error message, but only about 50% of the time. I think I have a lead on that -- I was HARD on the brakes making a turn and saw the right headlight flicker. As soon as that happened, I got the messages. I think there's a connection that's flaky, since there's a TSB that addresses that issue: http://nateronline.com/Technical_Bulletins/2007.05.10_headlight_afs_autolevel_inoperative.pdf When I get a chance, I'll pull the bumper and headlights and see if that is a fix. I hope it is. The rest of the car is untouched. I haven't given it more than a preliminary cursory polish. I still need tires. From the looks of the existing tires, it needs an alignment. It tracks straight, but is wearing the insides all around. So that's the update for now. Hopefully some pics and work soon. Oh yeah, also, the Dynaudio system is only partially working. The passenger door is fully functional. The driver's door only has the midrange driver operational, the tweeter and woofer are dead. I'm assuming it's a bad crossover, but I pulled the door panel only to find the loving midrange/woofer assembly RIVETED to the door. It's a factory install, they really didn't want that messed with.  Going to have to put some work in on that later, too.
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Dec 10, 2019 17:28
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meatpimp posted:I pulled the door panel only to find the loving midrange/woofer assembly RIVETED to the door. It's a factory install, they really didn't want that messed with. Lol what the hell is up with that, I've done shitloads of speaker replacements and have never seen rivets. That's gonna be a pain in the dick
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Dec 10, 2019 17:34
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Lol what the hell is up with that, I've done shitloads of speaker replacements and have never seen rivets. Yup. Serious bullshit. Not my pic, but this is what it looks like:
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Dec 10, 2019 18:29
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drat they riveted the gently caress out of that thing. I thought it would be like 3-4 rivets around the basket, but of course it's a VW, so we can't have that.
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Dec 10, 2019 18:48
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rattle prevention
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Dec 10, 2019 19:13
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BraveUlysses posted:rattle prevention Haha Yeah that looks ridiculous, no need for it.
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Dec 10, 2019 20:52
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I replaced a dead woofer in my MKV GTI when I had it and it was also riveted in. I killed my old battery operated drill and had to borrow a corded one from my dad trying to get the rivets out, good luck.
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Dec 10, 2019 22:36
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My Vibe's speakers were riveted in, total pain in the rear end to drill them out.
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Dec 11, 2019 01:19
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Sounds like you need to sharpen your drills. Rivets are a pain but they gotta be aluminum, so it’s maybe 5 seconds per to drill the head off?
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Dec 11, 2019 01:22
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What sucks is when they break loose and start spinning when you're trying to drill them out.
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Dec 11, 2019 01:26
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Lol what the hell is up with that, I've done shitloads of speaker replacements and have never seen rivets. Let me introduce you to the mid 00s Toyota Corolla/Matrix/Vibe opengl128 posted:My Vibe's speakers were riveted in, total pain in the rear end to drill them out. I rest my case.
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Dec 11, 2019 01:43
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STR posted:Let me introduce you to the mid 00s Toyota Corolla/Matrix/Vibe Yep, mine were riveted in! Now the replacements have self tappers so I’m not sure what’s worse
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Dec 11, 2019 10:31
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Yeah, Volvo's been riveting speakers since the 80's. At least now they put in plastic adapters like that where you can fit an aftermarket speaker in there and it's the right size and bolt pattern. A while back they would have odd bolt patterns and odd sizes, and it was a mess of home-made adapters and covers to get anything aftermarket in there.
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Dec 13, 2019 19:22
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BloodBag posted:All this because they put the key in the dash instead of in the column with a mechanical cylinder/lock. I'm looking forward to our next episode of 'poo poo that doesn't need to be electronic' when we visit electric parking brakes. I swear to loving god you cursed me with that comment. I'm in the middle of doing rear brakes. I've been doing rear brakes for 3 hours. First, the brake pads have been replaced before. How do I know that? From the loving BLUE LOCKTITE on the caliper bolts.  Second, the caliper carrier bolts were on there like the hand of god himself put them on. It laughed at my JhnnyThndrs Air Impact. It laughed at my Milwaukee 1/2" M18 Fuel impact (I thought that thing would do anything, well... I guess not caliper brackets. ) Ultimately, it took a 2' breaker bar after figuring out the right combination of extensions and angles. drat, that wasn't fun.So then, it was time to get the caliper piston back in. No problem, I've got the universal rear brake kit to screw rear parking brake calipers back in. Except that when I hooked it up, the piston boot just started to twist. Hrm. That's not what's supposed to happen. I turned to Youtube for support and I'll be damned if that electronic parking brake doesn't change everything about the rear brake setup. Turns out that the correct procedure is to HOOK THE loving CAR UP TO A COMPUTER TO CHANGE THE REAR BRAKES. But there's a bypass to it -- remove the electronic parking brake actuator, manually retract the mechanism inside, then push the piston straight back normally. Sweet christ, that's nuts. So I've got one done and ready to reinstall. I think I may slap some black paint on the calipers, so it probably won't be done until tomorrow. I just hope it actually works. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Dec 14, 2019 |
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Dec 14, 2019 20:50
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I also forgot that during the beginning of the saga, I found that a new Husky swivel was made of pure Chineseium.
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Dec 15, 2019 14:03
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I suck with taking contemporaneous pictures, but I buttoned up the rear brakes with no drama this morning: The front brakes weren't worn out, but the rotors were certainly thrashed:  While I had the front end jacked up, I also did a transmission fluid change. Clean pan:  Now you would think that a transmission fluid change would be a "drain fluid and refill" job... but not with superior German forcing you to the dealer. So with this transmission (09M), you drain the fluid by taking out the drain plug and get about 2 quarts. Then you go deeper into the same hole and take out a spacer/straw that sticks up in the pan and you get another 4 quarts out. Then you remove the pan, clean it up, replace the filter and gasket and button it back up. Except it's not that easy. You put the spacer/straw back in, then you thread in the specialty tool that you bought and have hooked up to a bit of vinyl tubing going to a fluid pump. Then you pump 4 quarts of fluid back into the transmission, followed by starting the car and cycling it through the gear. Keep the car running and get back under it. Then, you monitor the fluid until it reaches 104*F and pump in fluid until it just starts running back out, into the hose you're using to pump fluid in. Then remove the special tool and replace the main drain plug. If the transmission fluid goes over 104*F, stop the motor and wait until the fluid cools and do it again. Huge, stupid, pain in the rear end. Here's an action shot:  Note: The car is very rigid. Front end up on 2 jack stands, one jack under the right rear side and the whole car is in the air and balanced enough that I could get into the driver's seat for transmission selector operation. Note: The graduated Meijer buckets are awesome. I have 2 quart, 5 quart, and 10 quart buckets and they are great for bulk fluid draining or filling.
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Dec 16, 2019 02:05
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You have just confirmed for me that I will never buy a loving used Volkswagen. Jesus Christ, who keeps coming up with these complicated new solutions to solved problems?
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Dec 17, 2019 00:30
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meatpimp posted:I also forgot that during the beginning of the saga, I found that a new Husky swivel was made of pure Chineseium. Lifetime warranty. Take that fucker back.
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Dec 17, 2019 00:31
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Darchangel posted:You have just confirmed for me that I will never buy a loving used Volkswagen. My Jetta had electric locks, you press the button and that electric signal starts a pneumatic pressure/vacuum pump, which pressurizes or applies vacuum to a tube that tees a few times and goes to all the doors. A pressure/vacuum switch in the door would then detect that and run an electric solenoid to unlock the door. Had to dig around under the carpet and find the disconnected tees a few times. It also had a special tool required rear brake setup. You have to rotate the piston while compressing it. It was a fun car but everything about working on it was dumb. I replaced window regulators 4 times and it was retired with the drivers window taped up.
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Dec 17, 2019 00:43
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