|
how much chuck can a chuck chuck chuck etc. etc. etc.
|
#
?
Dec 13, 2019 22:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 01:30 |
|
|
They only thought if they could, but not if they should.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 00:01
|
|
|
One more time for the new page DEATH DEATH
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 00:08
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 00:46
|
|
|
shame on an IGA posted:One more time for the new page
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 01:10
|
|
|
and they left every single chuck key in it ughhhh
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 01:10
|
|
|
Now turn it on
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 02:51
|
|
|
If you turn the spindle on forwards, it throws the chuck keys out, so obviously if you run it backwards it has to pull the chuck keys back in. That's science 
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 03:01
|
|
|
Should have put it in the steady rest
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 03:07
|
|
|
It's still probably true to within five hunnert thousandths.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 07:04
|
|
|
Man someones selling a pretty decent looking lathe for 1500 euros, that's a bargain price by local standards. I'd expect to see something like this at 2500+, even though it has no QCTP holders. Edit: Also removed the rotor and took off the old bearings, they felt pretty bad. I got lucky and someone from Sweden (I am in Finland, Motronic) sent me a pair of new SKF 6206 bearings for it, even free shipping, just cause he liked reading my renovation thread.  
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:33 on Dec 14, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 09:31
|
|
|
Anybody ever use a mouth-blown blow pipe/torch or 'french torch', or alternately have a schematic/build log/just the critical dims for one? Interested in the premodern just-a-blowpipe designs you use to Enhance And Direct a fuel lamp flame, but moreso in the more modern pressurized-gas-fuelled torches that use a mouth-blown oxygen supply approach instead of bottled gas or atmospheric venturi. Supposedly they're very common in Europe and with working artisans across many poorer countries in Asia but it's surprisingly hard to find anything English-language about them except for fairly vague "oh yeah I learned to solder with one of those" jeweller's anecdotes. They strike me as a nice way to get fine control over delicate soldering that sidesteps the usual high-pressure bottled oxygen supply hassle (landlords are not a fan, weirdly enough); my hope is that it might be possible to modify something like a Little Torch to suit, compensating for lower lung pressure and managing the condensed water vapor from your breath are the main hurdles I see and both should be easy to deal with. right now my Little Torch is just collecting dust and I'd like to break that trend. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Dec 14, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2019 22:29
|
|
|
I needed a giant wrench/clamp thing to act like a giant lever for rolling rock slabs up on edge. Made it with just a simple cantilever clamp with no screw first, which worked great but if you rolled all the way over, the rock would push on the bar-side of the moving jaw and let it release. I put a big nasty 1" -8 clamp screw on it with a fancy floating clamp pad for version two. Also made a removable handle for the top so two people can grab it (and move your center of mass back for rolling deeper rocks), and discovered that a straight bar at head level is scary when it's attached to a 400lb rock. Didn't want it to hook the back of my neck and slam me into something if I lost my grip, so version two got some rub-rails.  Version one with the medieval looking movable jaw, before adding the rotating handle at the top.  Used it all last week,  New screw  Rub rail things on the handle so it's not a scary neck hook.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2019 01:45
|
|
|
I am very jealous of that table.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2019 04:22
|
|
|
That's the coolest wrench I've ever seen.
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2019 16:48
|
|
|
I got nothing todo right now, the shaft is at the shop, waiting to hear from them when it's done, waiting for the bearings for the motor... So I decided to tackle the chip problem. My lathe makes a mess when I turn and I don't like the mess behind it. So I made a chip guard for my lathe, from plywood. Still gonna paint it and get some kind of tool holder system and what not in place, maybe install a LED light strip or something under the top. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2019 17:05
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2019 21:12
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:Anybody ever use a mouth-blown blow pipe/torch or 'french torch', or alternately have a schematic/build log/just the critical dims for one? Interested in the premodern just-a-blowpipe designs... If you don't already know how to do circular breathing I highly, highly suggest you try and figure it out before you research the topic further, or all of the research may be for naught. It's weird and you might not be able to get the hang of it. If you can't do it, then you can't use one of those torches. That's about all I know about those things, but it's kinda a deal-killer. I don't know how long you'll need to maintain a consistent flame, but circular breathing for extended periods can put you in a weird head space. Seriously dude, your flame consistency will be entirely related to how consistent you can circular breath. Your cheeks are the regulator. Look up practice guides, get out a straw and glass of water, and practice. Also, if you have allergies, it really impacts how well you can do it unless you're willing to dope yourself up with anti-histamines. You don't have to worry so much about the noise of "sniffles" like musicians do, but it's nearly impossible if you're congested and snorting in big breaths of nose loogie. quote:that sidesteps the usual high-pressure bottled oxygen supply hassle (landlords are not a fan, weirdly enough); my hope is that it might be possible to modify something like a Little Torch to suit... Have you looked at oxygen concentrators? They start at $200-250 used around me and put out enough oxygen to braze a bike frame: you'll have to turn down the LPM to use your Little Torch. You can run 3 or 4 Little Torches off of one. Don't know if they're well known in the jewelry world, but one of the foremost bicycle frame teachers recommends them as an option to his students. They're a regulated medical device that can't be re-sold for medical use so there's a lot of *wink* *wink* sales "after mom passed away" and families are trying get rid of them. Gotta run them for 5-20 minutes before you want to light the flame, but that's not a huge issue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 18, 2019 05:33
|
|
|
I didn't plan on getting a drill press but I think I might be bringing this one home. Arboga E830, geared head drill press with power feed, found it locally and at a real good price so if it's not a piece of junk I'll have to get it.  
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2019 09:30
|
|
|
Nice I can not wait to have a shed/space for these kinds of tools and equipment
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2019 13:25
|
|
|
I live in the same weird part of the world as HDS and it's hilarious seeing the machines from the regional classifieds show up here. Do you keep an eye on Kiertonet?
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2019 21:05
|
|
|
MisterOblivious posted:If you don't already know how to do circular breathing I highly, highly suggest you try and figure it out before you research the topic further, or all of the research may be for naught. It's weird and you might not be able to get the hang of it. If you can't do it, then you can't use one of those torches. As a (former) musician I can weigh in a little bit on circular breathing too. For those who don't know it's basically learning how to breathe in through your nose and out your mouth at the same time. But Beep you say, what about your lungs? Yes. It's very easy to pass out (at least for me it was). I was a double reed player (bassoon) and we were told that if we wanted to be really really good we'd have to learn how to circular breathe.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2019 21:52
|
|
|
Free Market Mambo posted:I live in the same weird part of the world as HDS and it's hilarious seeing the machines from the regional classifieds show up here. I used to but every machine there ends up costing way too much so I don't check it as often, and also most of the machines are always so far away. I also did not get this machine, I had negotiated a price with the seller but wanted to see that nothing was broken on it. But I'd take it if there was nothing wrong, so I thought we had a deal. But I am stuck at home with sick kids so I asked a friend who lives close by if he could check the machine for me, he'd arranged a time to check the machine with the seller, but when he got there he was loading the machine into someone elses car. I guess someone paid him extra to sell to them at once instead of waiting for me. lovely move to waste my friends time and gasoline like that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2019 21:57
|
|
|
That's super lame, let me know if you ever need a machine checked out to the north.
|
|
#
?
Dec 20, 2019 22:12
|
|
|
was wistfully thinking "man i wish waterjet cutting usefully scaled down to the hobbyist level even a tiny bit" and: apparently somebody took a crack at desktop waterjet cutting while i wasnt looking? it'd be real cool if it isn't an impractical gimmick but i have no idea: https://www.wazer.com/   the usual hurdle in front of people who've tried DIYing these, from what I've seen, is water pressure; commercial units are all working up near 60-90k PSI for a few good reasons, and you just can't pressurize water to anywhere near that level without spending big bucks. i dont think they've really solved that issue, they mention a max operating pressure of 4900 PSI in the documentation, which makes sense seeing as how it can't cut through more than, for ex, 1/8" of stainless steel (and then at an agonizing 0.5 IPM)- and because abrasive is flowing the whole time you'd be burning through garnet like nothin. still, its not like you can replace waterjet cutting for a whole bunch of weird applications, so i guess "really wasteful/expensive waterjet cutting in my garage" is still better than none at all. don't think these'd replace laser cutters for most people any time soon, but if you cut a lot of intricate stone/glass parts for inlays, or work exclusively with pre-tempered metals or heat-affect zone-sensitive materials, then yeah, I think it's this or farming every job/part out. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Dec 21, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2019 00:09
|
|
|
I think that product came up years ago and it turned out to be basically the waterjet equivalent of the blu-ray diode "laser cutters" that come with AliExpress 3D printers. That is, because it's extremely underpowered, it can technically cut things but it's extremely slow and it consumes the abrasive grit much faster than a proper high-pressure system. Like it would take an hour to cut out a 12" steel sawblade where even a low-end industrial unit would only take a couple of minutes. e: oh yeah I guess that's basically what you said. Yeah, kind of interesting but idk I'm not really seeing the market. It's still too expensive for the people who would only use it very occasionally, and if you need to use one frequently the performance sucks Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Dec 21, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2019 00:19
|
|
|
fumbled edit: oof yeah, I went ahead and plugged that desktop cutter's performance specs into a conventional waterjet feed/speed calculator, and a typical 60k psi waterjet with the same garnet consumption/orifice as this wazer thing will cut 0.5" aluminium... jesus, it cuts half-inch plate from 7x to 30x faster than this lil guy depending on the cut quality, while consuming 1/7 to 1/30th the abrasive the numbers get even more lopsided with thinner stock, the absolute fastest the Wazer can cut 1/4" 6061 sheet @ 0.33lb/min garnet flow is 0.9IPM. A 'roughing' finish (not top speed, mind) on a commercial machine @ 60k PSI is achieved at 53 IPM, and a high-quality finish at 12.5 IPM alas. i see why nobody bothers with abrasivejet cutting at less than "tens of thousands of PSI"
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2019 00:28
|
|
|
I always thought the garnet used in waterjets was recyclable?
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2019 00:40
|
|
|
In the three waterjet-using shops I've worked in both water and abrasive were strictly once-through. I don't actually know much about The Abrasive Jet Industry At Large but I can't see recycling the stuff being viable, clogs in the feed were always a nightmare to deal with and happened extremely easily if any contaminants got into the feed hopper, what with all those tiny little orifices in the mixing head/nozzle. Even clean water splashing in could cause "time to disassemble the entire cutting head mid-job" -calibre clogs down the line because once it dried it'd leave little nuggets of agglomerated garnet that didn't always break up on their own. Now consider that used garnet forms a heavily-contaminated muck at the bottom of the tank, full of not only water and garnet but also all sizes of material cutoffs n swarf from parts being run, rust flakes from the bed rails, oil leaking into the cut tank from the head/gantry because all the gaskets and packing should have been replaced some time shortly before 9/11 happened, general shop dirt and crud that floats in every time someone kicks up dust with a tool or sweeps the place, etc etc. Maybe there are immaculate shops where they can actually control for those contaminants, but the absurdly well-equipped and pristine hospital optics/imaging machine shop I worked in sure as poo poo couldn't eliminate them all, and they actually tried. e: It wouldn't surprise me if, at a commercial level, there are dedicated abrasive recycling companies that have really involved processes for recycling garnet from cut tank sediment, it's too obvious a cost savings and/or income stream for someone to have not taken a crack at it. But every instance I've seen where a shop has Just The One Waterjet they just get a big suction truck to muck out the tank once or twice a year, with the tank contents being trash hauled away at cost Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Dec 21, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2019 01:00
|
|
|
There's like one recycling company that's been semi successful, mostly because in Boeingland, WA they're able to source 250 tons of raw slurry/wk from within a 20 mile radius. It's very much a volume game to be able to process it reasonably.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2019 01:54
|
|
|
We use aluminum oxide by the truckload and about half of it is recovered by the manufacturer. They sieve it out I guess and somehow extract the fines. The other half goes to a dedicated grit recycling operation. They also buy all of our used grinding wheels. I have no idea how they remain in business or where the target market is. The nice part about alox is the majority of the cutting action occurs upon fracture, then the reclaim system grabs the broken particles and removes them from the system as the now smaller piece has much less potential energy. Imagine throwing a handful of ball bearings or a handful of flour, you can throw them both with the same energy and get wildly different results.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2019 02:46
|
|
|
We have two waterjets at work. I don't think these will ever really be viable on the small hobby level. The pumps are just too big and expensive and a loving maintenance nightmare. 60k psi water wears things out fast. As for the garnet abrasive, there's two major suppliers in the USA, and they both do garnet recycling, though it's used for things like fill for roads/potholes, not used for cutting again. We have a shipping container we fill with 3000 lb bags of spent garnet, and they pick it up every couple months.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2019 09:44
|
|
|
Yooper posted:We use aluminum oxide by the truckload and about half of it is recovered by the manufacturer. They sieve it out I guess and somehow extract the fines. The other half goes to a dedicated grit recycling operation. They also buy all of our used grinding wheels. I have no idea how they remain in business or where the target market is. The nice part about alox is the majority of the cutting action occurs upon fracture, then the reclaim system grabs the broken particles and removes them from the system as the now smaller piece has much less potential energy. Imagine throwing a handful of ball bearings or a handful of flour, you can throw them both with the same energy and get wildly different results. once upon a time a place i worked at had a problem w their cabinet and just bypassed the reclaimer + never ended up fixing the issue properly. and it wasnt until this very moment that i put two and two together irt why the hell, exactly, that cabinet rapidly became slow and unreliable at lifting firescale off, even though the gun was still blasting at the same PSI/flow rate as before, and topping up the medium a couple times didn't help, for some odd reason or why the hail-mary attempted fix of swapping out the also-acceptable garnet for alox, in a continuously-circulating system w no reclaiming or wholesale disposal+replacement, seemed to make things worse after a week or two 
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Dec 23, 2019 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2019 06:38
|
|
|
I realize this thread is more about "make a thing" and less about "restore an old thing" but my grandfather gave me a horse shoe that was made by his uncle who was a black smith. It's got a decent looking layer of rust on it but I'd like to do something to remove the rust, seal it against future rust and mount in on a plaque or something. It's a fairly thin shoe (it was made as a shoe for a race horse by my grandfather's telling) and I'm worried about getting too aggressive with it in terms of removing too much material. Any recommendations for fairly gently removing a few decades of rust from a horse shoe and then sealing against further rust?
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2019 03:42
|
|
|
DreadLlama posted:If you were trying to make a large curved mirror, would there be better materials to use than aluminium 6063? If you’re trying to make optics this is actually a really complex question and heat treatment matters. Even if it’s just a cosmetic mirror, 6063 is a good choice though, particularly with the lowest iron possible.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2019 04:36
|
|
|
captkirk posted:Any recommendations for fairly gently removing a few decades of rust from a horse shoe and then sealing against further rust? Electrolysis sounds like it would work for you. The process should be self-limiting and therefore result in only the rust getting removed, leaving the metal intact. There are a bunch of instructions on how to do it online, with the biggest demand being a power supply. I've used that process previously but made a poor connection to my sacrificial metal which I think slowed it down considerably. Other than that it worked well. As for sealing it... Maybe just prime and paint? Since it's going to be purely decorative you can make it any colour/finish you like.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2019 05:25
|
|
|
captkirk posted:I realize this thread is more about "make a thing" and less about "restore an old thing" but my grandfather gave me a horse shoe that was made by his uncle who was a black smith. It's got a decent looking layer of rust on it but I'd like to do something to remove the rust, seal it against future rust and mount in on a plaque or something. It's a fairly thin shoe (it was made as a shoe for a race horse by my grandfather's telling) and I'm worried about getting too aggressive with it in terms of removing too much material. Electrolysis is an option, but depending on the solution it can eat the material. Once the dirt is bubbled off you can strip material. Keep the voltage reasonable and it'll be OK. Other option is an Armakleen (Baking soda) blast. It works surprisingly well and doesn't touch the base metal. Used quite often for blasting aluminum. Ultrasonic would also be a good choice, but can present problems if you're too aggressive. We don't use it so I don't have a lot to offer on that one. Evaporust works surprisingly well and leaves a nice dark patina, heat it up for extra oomph. As far as protection, depends on the look. Prime-paint is one, you could oil it lightly, or get fancy vci coating. Personally I like the oiled iron look.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2019 15:00
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:If you’re trying to make optics this is actually a really complex question and heat treatment matters. Even if it’s just a cosmetic mirror, 6063 is a good choice though, particularly with the lowest iron possible. What about 5052? When I asked that question I hadn't yet checked what was actually available in my area. Are you familiar with solar cookers? I have an idea to make a "parabolic trough." If I get a big elevated bucket filled with maple sap and a solar collector below it, I may be able to get a thermosiphon going which could -in theory- result in maple syrup without burning fuel. In theory. I'm not exactly trying to resolve a perfect image of the sun along my tube, but I don't know. The biggest issue I can forsee is that this thing will spend 46 weeks of the year sitting unused in a field, so it's got to be fairly durable. Otherwise I'd be thinking about gluing Mylar to doorskin.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2019 16:08
|
|
|
captkirk posted:I realize this thread is more about "make a thing" and less about "restore an old thing" but my grandfather gave me a horse shoe that was made by his uncle who was a black smith. It's got a decent looking layer of rust on it but I'd like to do something to remove the rust, seal it against future rust and mount in on a plaque or something. It's a fairly thin shoe (it was made as a shoe for a race horse by my grandfather's telling) and I'm worried about getting too aggressive with it in terms of removing too much material. Personally take a wire cup in a drill to it first, before getting all chemical with it. You might like the look of it with the surface rust knocked off.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2019 18:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 01:30 |
|
|
Yooper posted:As far as protection, depends on the look. Prime-paint is one, you could oil it lightly, or get fancy vci coating. Personally I like the oiled iron look. I think oiled iron would look better but with oil that's something I would have to periodically reapply, correct?
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2019 18:41
|
|