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Carpet pad gets the poo poo kicked out of it, especially in high-traffic areas. Spring for wool if you can, but it costs a ton. We had them put in rebond padding (that chipped-foam stuff) - which is a couple of rungs down from wool in quality, but by no means cheap - and it's largely gone in our traffic areas, after about seven years
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Dec 9, 2019 05:20
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Ashcans posted:I am not an expert but I feel like taking a torch to your gas service is maybe not a good approach for amateur home repair. Oh oh oh this is one of those transatlantic things, where you say furnace and we say boiler, right? I was thinking something a little more cast iron, but nevertheless the word "gas" should've made me not say that even with the caveat, you're right.
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Dec 9, 2019 11:15
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Jaded Burnout posted:Oh oh oh this is one of those transatlantic things, where you say furnace and we say boiler, right? I was thinking something a little more cast iron, but nevertheless the word "gas" should've made me not say that even with the caveat, you're right. No, they are 2 separate things over here also, even though people get them confused all the time. Furnace = burns a hydrocarbon (less common, electricity) to heat air, which is forced through registers/vents Boiler = burns a hydrocarbon (less common, electricity) to heat water, which is distributed to radiators, baseboard heaters, or fancy radiant heat pipes under the floor
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Dec 9, 2019 13:15
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B-Nasty posted:No, they are 2 separate things over here also, even though people get them confused all the time. Ahh. We don't usually have the furnace variant because we don't typically have central air, and when we do it's usually just an AC unit primarily geared towards cooling things down, and usually as a luxury item. Thanks for the clarification. Edit: Out of curiosity, where does the word "register" come from in that context? I don't know of any other usage that maps onto the concept of a vent. Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Dec 9, 2019 |
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Dec 9, 2019 13:26
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Jaded Burnout posted:Edit: Out of curiosity, where does the word "register" come from in that context? I don't know of any other usage that maps onto the concept of a vent.
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Dec 9, 2019 15:02
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HycoCam posted:A register is a vent with moving parts. i.e. you can open and close the duct using the register. A vent has no mechanics. Your floor and ceiling holes where the air comes out use registers, typically. The return air gets sucked through a much large "vent" (no mechanics inside), that typically houses a filter you'll need change periodically. This is useful to know, also wikipedia posted:A grille is a perforated cover for an air duct (used for heating, cooling, or ventilation, or a combination thereof). Grilles sometimes have louvers which allow the flow of air to be directed. A register differs from a grille in that a damper is included.[1][2] However, in practice, the terms "grille", "register", and "return" are often used interchangeably, and care must be taken to determine the meaning of the term used.[2][3] I still can't figure out the etymology of this usage.
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Dec 9, 2019 15:25
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HycoCam posted:That would be pro. You can get smaller base trim and silicone it in place as well to make any future changes a little easier--not as pro. Slight correction, though I think functionally it doesn't matter...I have LVP, not LVT. Which, from my understanding, is the same material just designed to look like wood and not like tile. I watched this video where this guy is putting in an underfloor heat system he claims is certified to use under LVP/LVT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS2vV-gjuBM I briefly thought about it, but have decided against it (for one, he's in Canada and using a Canadian product, don't even know if I can get it in the states.) But beyond that, multiple times he states that LVP does NOT need expansion gaps because it expands so little, even with it getting directly heated with the underfloor system. Now, granted, I don't see the harm in putting in a gap as long as it can be covered easily, but is there any data to back up that these floors don't really expand the wy laminate and hardwood do?
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Dec 9, 2019 15:35
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DrBouvenstein posted:Now, granted, I don't see the harm in putting in a gap as long as it can be covered easily, but is there any data to back up that these floors don't really expand the wy laminate and hardwood do? This is something the manufacturer can tell you. It certainly won't expand the way straight-up wood-from-a-tree does, but that doesn't mean it won't expand at all.
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Dec 9, 2019 16:01
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Jaded Burnout posted:I still can't figure out the etymology of this usage. Probably from one of these Latin roots: from Latin regerere (“to record, to carry back”), from re- + gerero (“to carry, bear”) But it still seems like a stretch.
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Dec 9, 2019 17:23
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How do I convert a propane weber grill to natural gas? Or the better question, what type of local company can I call up to give me the right fittings/hose to connect the natural gas fitting on my patio to the grill?
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Dec 10, 2019 07:28
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tangy yet delightful posted:How do I convert a propane weber grill to natural gas? Or the better question, what type of local company can I call up to give me the right fittings/hose to connect the natural gas fitting on my patio to the grill? Replace the propane (higher pressure) regulator with a natural gas (lower pressure) regulator. Most hardware stores carry them. https://www.bbqguys.com/grill-accessories/grill-hoses-regulators
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Dec 10, 2019 14:53
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It's more than that, you have to swap the orifices. Or you can buy a complete manifold for your grill if it's available. Looks like Weber voids your warranty though if that matters, the fuckers.
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Dec 10, 2019 17:11
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My Weber is ~5 years old so I'm not concerned with the warranty at this point. I have a Weber Part No# 46513101. PainterofCrap, care to provide a link to the exact thing I'd need? I tried looking at your link and just saw a ton of LP stuff and like two NG options that claim to be brand specific and cost $130+. angryrobots - what do you mean swap orifices? (googling this at work  )
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Dec 10, 2019 21:49
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This kit claims to work with your grill. Weber does not offer an official conversion kit.
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Dec 10, 2019 23:45
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tangy yet delightful posted:How do I convert a propane weber grill to natural gas? Or the better question, what type of local company can I call up to give me the right fittings/hose to connect the natural gas fitting on my patio to the grill? You have the easy conversion, you just need to change to a NG regulator and drill out your orifices (flow restrictors). https://pkarlean.co/propane-orifice-size-chart/propane-orifice-size-chart-low-pressure-natural-gas-to-conversion-high-pilot-drill/ Find your NG line pressure, match the burner BTU with this chart and make the hole bigger with the corresponding drill. Koryk fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Dec 12, 2019 |
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Dec 12, 2019 20:07
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DrBouvenstein posted:
I've seen Ditra's underlayment heat with LVT, but my understanding is there is fastset between the heating membrane and the LV to address expansion.
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Dec 12, 2019 20:59
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RE: Door draft and striker plate fix. I adjusted the striker plate, I could only move the middle striker plate effectively. The top striker plate refused to budge. The bottom one let me skew it (on the bottom side) towards the door. It's stopped the draught coming in from the sides, but now there's a very strong draft from the bottom left corner (opposite door handle) and I don't know how to sort that one out. Landlady basically got back to me with a "I refuse to pay money to fix this, the glass porch should be protection enough from the draft" despite the fact the glass porch is a windy hell hole that is constantly just as cold as outside temperatures. She's a cheapskate who used the cheapest handyman to do 90% of jobs in this house and it shows. Thermometer shows 17.5 celsius now instead of the previous 16c, but this is still hosed considering central heating is set to 21c. Utility company also sent us a lovely letter saying our monthly payments have increased by Ł40 a month.
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Dec 13, 2019 09:49
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Would something like this work? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Cinch-36-in-White-Slide-On-Under-Door-Seal-43336/205573049 It's cheap and doesn't require you to drill any holes so your landlady can't complain about you damaging her drafty door.
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Dec 13, 2019 16:11
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What can I use to secure a wire to some brick? I set up a security camera and want to run the cable under some brick window sills to keep it hidden and out of the way. I tried some 3M tape meant for outdoor stuff but it didn’t work.
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Dec 13, 2019 23:45
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TheManWithNoName posted:What can I use to secure a wire to some brick? I set up a security camera and want to run the cable under some brick window sills to keep it hidden and out of the way. I tried some 3M tape meant for outdoor stuff but it didn’t work. Standard plastic cable clamps and tapcons. Nothing is going to reliably stick to brick unless you get into epoxies, which seems like a huge pain compared to tapcons. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-1-2-in-Plastic-1-Hole-Cable-Clamps-12-Pack-PPC-1550/100157128 https://www.tapcon.com/products/genuine-tapcon-screw-anchors/genuine-tapcon
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Dec 14, 2019 00:14
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TheManWithNoName posted:What can I use to secure a wire to some brick? I set up a security camera and want to run the cable under some brick window sills to keep it hidden and out of the way. I tried some 3M tape meant for outdoor stuff but it didn’t work. Motronic posted:Standard plastic cable clamps and tapcons. Nothing is going to reliably stick to brick unless you get into epoxies, which seems like a huge pain compared to tapcons. Those straps are perfect, but I can't get those screws less than 1 1/2" in my area and would recommend "conical screw anchors" just to not do as much drilling. https://whiteheadindustrial.com/1-4...rxoC4egQAvD_BwE Not near as sturdy, but good enough for light cable. The kits come with a drill bit if you have a drill with a hammer function.
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Dec 14, 2019 02:05
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TheManWithNoName posted:What can I use to secure a wire to some brick? I set up a security camera and want to run the cable under some brick window sills to keep it hidden and out of the way. I tried some 3M tape meant for outdoor stuff but it didn’t work. There are some cable clips out there for RG6 and cat5 sized cables that are intended for masonry, like these. You stick them in a crack or the line between the brick and mortar, then hammer them in. 8/10 times they'll work. The other 2/10, you'll pop a piece of mortar or brick off. Oh, and your mortar had better be flush.
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Dec 14, 2019 03:31
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Is there a practical difference between a vent that says it's for a dryer vs one labeled for bath/kitchen exhaust? The only kitchen/bath wall exhaust I see at my Lowe's is 6", I need 4". All the 4" ones are labeled as dryer... But as long as it has a grate and self closing door to keep critters and the cold out, it should work, right?
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Dec 14, 2019 19:32
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I have a kitchen with a few different painted textures on the walls. I'd like to apply a new texture/paint over everything to make it look uniform. Do I need to use a primer on top of the existing textures before putting on the new mud? I haven't sanded the walls, but I did scrape off the tall peaks on the roughest texture.
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Dec 14, 2019 22:49
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DrBouvenstein posted:Is there a practical difference between a vent that says it's for a dryer vs one labeled for bath/kitchen exhaust? From what I've seen, you can use dryer vents for bath exhaust but not always the other way around. You don't want meshing, like you'll see on some bath vents, catching lint and becoming blocked.
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Dec 14, 2019 23:41
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DrBouvenstein posted:Is there a practical difference between a vent that says it's for a dryer vs one labeled for bath/kitchen exhaust? The ones for dryers are usually aluminum while the others are galvanized steel. The humidity from dryers can rust out steel ducts after a few years. The rust catches lint, the lint builds up, the vent gets clogged, the clog starts a fire. Aluminum doesn't have this problem, plus it's easier to cut and shape. Some of them have the plastic grilles over them that you'll always want to remove. You'll catch lint faster than you'll ever have a critter get in. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Dec 15, 2019 |
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Dec 15, 2019 03:08
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Ok, cool... I need it for a bathroom exhaust, so good to know a dryer vent will work. I'm also miffed that insolated ducts are only in 25' sections...I only need like 10 to 15.
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Dec 15, 2019 04:17
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm also miffed that insolated ducts are only in 25' sections...I only need like 10 to 15. That's weird. 3 metres is the standard here. 3D Megadoodoo fucked around with this message at 06:37 on Dec 15, 2019 |
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Dec 15, 2019 06:35
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Is there a cheap/easy way to cut down on drafts from antique sash windows? Just weather stripping at the bottom? It's rarely very cold where I live, so I don't need anything serious, but I'd definitely like to seal it better than it is without just painting them shut (which is what the previous owner did.) It looks like if I wanted to insulate the rails I'd have to take the window out completely.
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Dec 15, 2019 19:46
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There's 2 things you can do. Both revolve around sealing the window completely for the winter. The first is rope caulk. Basically it's like play-doh and comes in long rolls. You peel a snake off and shove it in the window gaps. The next is the window films. They're kind of like cling wrap and fit over the whole inside of the window opening. Trap that air and you'll have a draft free window. Remove both in the spring. Use regular weatherstripping of appropriate thickness and squishiness along the bottom like you mentioned. Apply it to the sash bottom edge and not the sill. There's also caulking up the cracks around the frame and trim too. Take out the air conditioner if you got one. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Dec 15, 2019 |
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Dec 15, 2019 20:16
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I've got kind of a weird issue and I'd like to know what type of person/company I need to hire for this job. My family room is an addition that has a crawl space under it accessible from the basement of the main house. There's a block wall that runs down the middle of the crawl space that I assume supports the floor of the family room. There's two access holes for each side in the basement, but only one of them is big enough for a person, and the other access hole is much smaller and stuffed with HVAC runs. There's no hole in the divider wall to get between the two sides of the crawlspace. Do I cut a hole in the divider wall between the two sides so I can access the other side, or do I come in from the outside? Who would I hire for something like this, would it be a mason? Someone else? Would I need to have a structural engineer check and make sure the house isn't going to fall down after one of these holes are cut? I'd like to get the crawlspace insulated, but this is a bit of a blocker.
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Dec 15, 2019 21:24
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Panthrax posted:Do I cut a hole in the divider wall between the two sides so I can access the other side, or do I come in from the outside? Who would I hire for something like this, would it be a mason? Someone else? Would I need to have a structural engineer check and make sure the house isn't going to fall down after one of these holes are cut? I'd like to get the crawlspace insulated, but this is a bit of a blocker. Either approach sounds feasible to me. Cutting a hole in a wall is something any general contractor should be able to handle. Usually an experienced GC can tell you whether or not they feel a structural engineer is necessary, but personally I would get one involved anyway for something like that, if only for them to say you don't need them. Typically at most a GC would just stick a premade lintel in there, same as if they were putting a doorway in a wall.
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Dec 15, 2019 21:59
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Pollyanna posted:My gas furnace has a large set of screws of some sort that have a roughly 1-inch wide straight (i.e. not Philips) head on them securing the front panel. It looks like they're meant to be unscrewed with some sort of coin or something, but two of the screws are so tight that they're nearly impossible to actually remove without something that has more leverage than a screw. Are there any heavy duty tools that can remove screws that look like large versions of these? abelwingnut posted:so i'm trying to clean up the area around my shower drain in my new apartment. GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Dec 18, 2019 |
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Dec 16, 2019 04:21
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H110Hawk posted:Put a flat drain strainer over it and never look under it again. It's an apartment (and therefore you don't own it I'm assuming - unless you're European and then I think you do own apartments?) and you don't want to eat through the pipes with caustic/abrasive work and have the landlord blame you and want money. So I agree with Hawk on this one.
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Dec 16, 2019 05:07
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Stripped screw on a wooden bed frame. It's at my sister's house, so I haven't been over to see it in person. I'm thinking I should just be able to epoxy a nut to the face and tell her to wait 24 hours and then use a wrench to remove it? It's the last piece of furniture my dad made before he passed, so we don't want to damage the wood at all. 
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Dec 18, 2019 04:57
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Maybe? I'd be worried the epoxy wouldn't be strong enough, though I guess it depends on how tight that screw is. It looks like the screw head is a little proud of the wood, so if you're careful, you should be able to dremel a slot in it and use a slotted screwdriver...and if that doesn't work, you should still be able to epoxy or JB Weld a nut onto the head. If that doesn't work, you can try one of several screw remover things, though personally I've never had a single one of those ever work for me, so...yeah.
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Dec 18, 2019 15:58
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I'd never expect epoxy to hold, just dremel a slot in it.
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Dec 18, 2019 16:03
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Figured the DIY forum would be my best shot for getting this answered: what kind of glue can I get in Europe that will actually bond silicone rubber to plastic? Regular cyanoacrylate doesn't hold, I'm assuming because it's not bonding with the silicone rubber. I've had a quick Google but all of the stuff I found suggested (e.g. Sil-poxy) isn't available here.
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Dec 18, 2019 18:46
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I don't know about availability in Europe, but thistothat is my go-to for adhesive recommendations.
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Dec 18, 2019 18:54
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't know about availability in Europe, but thistothat is my go-to for adhesive recommendations. Assuming "Barge" is a brand and not glue for barges, looks like there's a similar one available in the UK and on the continent (presumably, since it's German): https://www.amazon.co.uk/K%C3%B6vulfix-Adhesive-Universal-Rasensamen-Reparatur/dp/B008F7JHB8/ref=pd_cp_79_4/260-0397794-4344649
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Dec 18, 2019 18:59
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