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That sounds fine to me! I'll have to track one down, thanks.
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Apr 2, 2019 13:33
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Elmnt80 posted:Its cheap, but a spectre intake for a gmt800 is at basically any parts store. It comes off the trottle body with a 90° silicone coupler, goes to a metal pipe that runs down to an coupler for the maf sensor, then it has an adaptor to attach a 5" opening cheap cone filter to the MAF sensor. It pulls air from the stock airbox location on the gmt800s which is directly behind the passenger headlight. Paint the crappy "chrome pipe" a wrinkle black and it'd probably look fine. vOv I had one of these on my 2500 Suburban and it worked as expected. For the price especially it can solve that problem pretty quickly and will take 5 minutes to slam in. Intake in question: 
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Apr 3, 2019 20:06
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Yup, basically the same thing.
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Apr 4, 2019 04:39
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loving grody old bulkhead connector Some bastard at the factory 16 years ago was having a bad day and gifted some of it to me.  I got the power steering reservoir plumbed.   broke the camera on my phone, but the hood is back on  Started plumbing the intake and faffing about with other random stuff  Group 78dts battery from the Buick got put in as a hand me down. Cruise control servo test fitting too.  The rest are many pics of where I might put the PDC. I'm split on which side to put it on.      I found the connector I want to use for a bulkhead connector and verified it should somehow fit (though it needs sheetmetal cutting...) And bought it. That loving hurt. Just the plastics cost $64. BUT it's got 6 pins good to 40 amps each and 60 good to 18 amps all in one nifty flange mounted IP69K rated housing. It's actually designed as a bulkhead connector for firewall usage on construction equipment and offroad vehicles. Uses standard Molex MX150 and MX150L pins. If anyone else wants to use the same one here are the part numbers: 93792-6006 (in stock at Mouser) 85084-0700 (same) 93481-0030 (same) 85071-0017 (digikey)    This week I hope to get the PDC mounting panel laser cut at work and weld it into the inner fender. I can't decide if I should put it where pictured or on the driver side. But leaning towards driver side at this point. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Apr 29, 2019 |
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Apr 29, 2019 01:44
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An offering of JeepGoals unto the thread Edit: Ah gently caress, it's not the same, is it...
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May 24, 2019 03:48
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Mother of God
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May 24, 2019 12:30
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Looks great to me. I haven't had time to do much on the truck recently... Some small stuff.
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May 24, 2019 17:04
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Anti archives bump. As those following along on Facebook know I've made some decent (though slow) progress, but between my phone, awfulapp, and the imgur app fighting over who is going to be a bigger piece of poo poo, I've had less than no motivation to actually post it here.
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Sep 4, 2019 01:44
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For what it’s worth (and I’m painfully aware it may be vanishingly little), there’s a Facebook-less constituency of at least one that really misses the action. Glad to hear you’re making some progress!
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Sep 4, 2019 11:46
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Discernibly Turgid posted:For what it’s worth (and I’m painfully aware it may be vanishingly little), there’s a Facebook-less constituency of at least two that really misses the action.
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Sep 4, 2019 14:45
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Three!
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Sep 4, 2019 15:55
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Sep 4, 2019 19:41
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Yea gently caress facebook it's not even worth it to me for marketplace or car stuff. I finally caved and got Twitter and if you choose who to follow carefully it's actually ok. Add me to the still reads this thread crew
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Sep 5, 2019 02:20
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Come back Ken, we miss you.
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Sep 5, 2019 03:08
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shy boy from chess club posted:Yea gently caress facebook it's not even worth it to me for marketplace or car stuff. I finally caved and got Twitter and if you choose who to follow carefully it's actually ok. Fermented Tinal posted:Come back Ken, we miss you. Not an emptyquote.
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Sep 5, 2019 03:35
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Fermented Tinal posted:Come back Ken, we miss you. I said the same thing about a month back, something like "Hey, where did our pet Jeep Whisperer/House Wrangler go?"
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Sep 5, 2019 14:45
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I follow here, and try to keep up on FaceBook, but more often than not ignore FB for weeks at a time.
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Sep 5, 2019 23:51
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Fermented Tinal posted:Come back Ken, we miss you. cursedshitbox posted:Not an emptyquote.
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Sep 6, 2019 00:56
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My philosophy on custom vehicle builds is a little different from most as I'm sure you guys have noticed. I like to find super common, cheap parts and bolt them together in new ways rather than customize any given part or buy custom aftermarket parts or build them myself. That goes double for parts I can reasonably expect to fail. For example, a water pump? A lot of guys are perfectly happy drilling and tapping it so they can connect the steam ports to it in their LS swap. Me? I intend to take this pile of junk out in the middle of nowhere. If a water pump fails I want to be able to buy one at the closest parts store or junkyard and install it without modifying it on the side of the road. Similarly I'd rather use factory wiring products as much as possible. They came with the engine for free right? They're designed by the OEM to last hundreds of thousands of miles? I want that. It boggles my mind that people will throw that all out and replace it with some Chinesium 8-slot fuse block that corrodes as soon as you look at it, a handful of the crappiest parts store ring terminals, a radio shack project box and a pile of relays plus a barrier strip. Why? So I'm using the factory fuse panel. I realized that the footprint for the mounting tabs was almost perfectly flat so I mapped it on some metric graph paper (it worked out to round numbers of millimeters instead of crazy fractions in inches... Guessing it was designed in metric) and had a coworker cut it on a machine at work. A few minutes with my crummy harbor freight sheet brake and we have this:    I think I'm going to French it into the inner fender right here (there's a huge rust hole there anyways)  Back to working on the transfer case. Backstory: - 92 or 93 K3500 diesel NV4500, originally came with a driver drop transfer case (BW4401) - 92 or 93 W250 V8 NP241D with fixed rear yoke, passenger drop - the 6 bolt New Venture Gear bolt pattern is in fact universal, but... With caveats. The 6 bolts aren't evenly spaced. 5 of them are. The sixth isn't. 5 are roughly 59 degrees apart each, the last one is 64-65 degrees or so. So if you want to put a tcase on something it didn't come from it might (or might not) have two holes not line up. Further they changed the clocking of the whole pattern WILDLY depending on whether it was a driver or passenger transfer case, what manufacturer it was for, etc. Why? I don't loving know. To be dicks or something. Anyways, if I bolted the transfer case on, the front output yoke would be in the same spot as the passengers left femur, which clearly isn't acceptable. If I redrilled two holes to drop it one hole down, it would mean not being able to install the trans crossmember. Zero people make a clocking ring with the right offset to put a passenger drop Dodge case on a driver drop Chevy trans as far as I can tell, so it was time to get creative. But first, I need to take apart, inspect, clean, and convert the transfer case. It has a 23 spline input gear and a 7260 or 7290 single cardan rear output yoke on it and neither is correct for this project, I need 32 spline and a 1350 CV flange... Luckily I had already determined what to get to make this happen. This is the back of the input gear... All the pocket bearings listed on rockauto are wrong, they're just the bearing with no cap on it. The bearings with the cap are everywhere for sale but not listed to go with the NP/NVG tcase. Quad4x4 has them but is super cagey about giving out a real part number so you can't price shop. I bought it from them and it fit, once I find the box I'll post which it is so people can skip paying them their blood money. Anyways, the cap keeps the transfer case and transmission from sharing fluids.  32 spline gear installed! Had to entirely tear it apart to do that.  And no rear yoke because I hadn't found one for sale yet.  Another custom laser cut tool from work. This is a stainless steel protractor specially cut to fit exactly on the input bearing retainer of an NVG transfer case.  Does an alright job of measuring the trans tailhousing bolt pattern too.  But here's where it was meant to fit.  I own too many God drat NP241 transfer cases. This isn't even the whole pile. Half of them I don't even own the truck I bought them for anymore.  Finally got my hands on another shallow-spline 1350 CV flange for the rear output. Only had to buy... Another 241 to get it  (but parts from it will come into play in the future, I'm sure. It's a 27 spline 6 planetary one that I want to bolt a Subaru motor, Chrysler 8.25 axle, and Dana 35 axle parts to.)And what's that on the input side...?  After fiddle-loving around with the custom protractor I was unable to get a good enough measurement for the bolt hole angles. They're not super critical if you're using studs and nuts and bolting it to a flat flange, but if you build a clocking ring you have to use countersunk machine screws to hold it to the tcase so it ends up 5 times overconstrained and you have to get their locations right on or they will walk loose. So... I ended up standing a junk case casting in one of the machines at work and using it as the world's most expensive 4x4 foot CMM. Located the center of the input bearing, then the XY coordinates of the 6 mounting holes and used that to find the PCD and angles. Then designed a clocking ring that has exactly the angle I need and cut a mock-up one from 1/8 aluminum...  ... And it fits perfectly! I'll need to actually machine the one I install, but now I know it will fit.  I'm really hoping to get some more time in on the truck soon but who knows. The house is eating most of my time.
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Dec 18, 2019 03:23
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kastein posted:My philosophy on custom vehicle builds is a little different from most as I'm sure you guys have noticed. I like to find super common, cheap parts and bolt them together in new ways rather than customize any given part or buy custom aftermarket parts or build them myself. That goes double for parts I can reasonably expect to fail. For example, a water pump? A lot of guys are perfectly happy drilling and tapping it so they can connect the steam ports to it in their LS swap. Me? I intend to take this pile of junk out in the middle of nowhere. If a water pump fails I want to be able to buy one at the closest parts store or junkyard and install it without modifying it on the side of the road. That's really good logic and it's great to see it written down so clearly. Who knows what you might forget 5 years down the line when you come to replace a part and forget that critical oil groove you had to machine etc.
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Dec 18, 2019 15:11
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Pretty much. Especially if it means being able to AAA to the closest junkyard or parts store and fix it in their parking lot instead of having to buy stuff, then remember it needs modifying, then find borrow or buy the tools to do so or take it to a machine shop on foot, etc etc etc. I'm also aiming for the most common donors and cheapest most common parts possible because one of the asshat purists on the FSJ groups insists this is a five-figure project and that it's very hard for most people to achieve. Basically I'm aiming for "sloppy mechanics but 4x4 edition" where I can post a list of parts that costs under $3k (ideally under $2k... But my NV4500 needing essentially a complete rebuild blew that out of the water since I've got $827 into it now instead of $100 as expected) and drop a wiring diagram and tell people they can just junkyard and Amazon prime all this nonsense and slap it together in a weekend with basic fab and wrench turning skills. Oh... The 5 ton runs and drives again. I need to post pics of that too I guess.
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Dec 18, 2019 17:23
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kastein posted:Pretty much. Especially if it means being able to AAA to the closest junkyard or parts store and fix it in their parking lot instead of having to buy stuff, then remember it needs modifying, then find borrow or buy the tools to do so or take it to a machine shop on foot, etc etc etc. The wold is Lego. Build from the most common bricks. Your fuse panel mount turned out awesome
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Dec 18, 2019 18:08
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OK, so here's the repairs I had to do to the 5 ton. Last we checked in on it, it was late 2014 and my life was actively falling apart around me. I had just finished re-redoing the head gaskets but had found a broken valvespring and replaced it. Then poo poo took a real turn for the worse, I became a Subaru owner, and I dropped all pretense of working on cars or driving anything I found entertaining for some time. Anyways. In late 2014 I never finished putting the engine back together on it. The valve covers, injectors, valve rockers, etc were all left uninstalled sitting on the passenger seat... with the window open... and nothing covering the top of the motor, except for the hood. Every year or two I'd remember that fact and have a panic attack wondering if the entire engine was a ball of rust yet. But not have any time or motivation to do anything about it. So it would keep sitting. This spring I needed to get rid of a vast quantity of debris from working on the house, and the town doesn't take C&D waste at their regular free resident dump days anymore for some reason. Not sure why, allegedly people were abusing it by bringing massive quantities of C&D waste or something... *innocent whistling* So I got a couple bagsters (since we had alright luck with them in 2016ish when my wife created an account and had a few bagsters picked up.) They showed up, determined that they couldn't fit down the road they'd been down successfully multiple times in the past, and charged me a $50 trip fee without picking my junk up. They told me to get hosed when I called to complain. Since I was unable to get my money back or my stuff picked up I resolved to not only never use them again, but cost them at least 10 times that in lost business, 'cause that's the kind of spiteful rear end in a top hat I am. So I found a local company that offered greenbag pickup and scheduled it... and they told me they were going to manually load it. I didn't want them complaining about how much the bags weighed (I filled them ALL THE WAY) so I offered to load the bags for them, which meant, well, I gotta get the 5 ton running and use it as a crane. So I opened the hood, expecting to find a rusty horror show, and...  I guess 15W40 is loving magical because there wasn't a single spot of rust that I could find. Just tree leaves and stuff. Cleaned all the tree sludge and stuff off the top of the inside of the motor. Sorry, shopvac.  Put the valve rockers and whatnot on.  The military manual said to tighten the injector hold-down bolts to some ridiculous torque in the hundred-plus foot-pound range, IIRC 150 foot-pounds. They're only 5/16 bolts. I looked up the torque spec for grade 5 bolts that size and it was like, 13 foot-pounds, which is suspiciously close to the 150 number when converted to inch-pounds. So I bought grade 8 bolts and torqued them to spec, which is like, 18 foot-pounds. And the last injector hold-down plate broke in half because of it. The lowest bidder sure got this contract.  Bought spares from Eastern Surplus and finished assembly in the nick of time. Had to put new batteries in it and started it up.  DROVE IT UP THE STREET! First time it had moved since... 2014? 2013? I don't remember. A LONG time ago. I always forget how goddamn huge it is when it's parked into the woods. Comanche shown for scale.  Tested picking the bagsters up with it. This is the heaviest one... drat near full of asphalt shingles, BUR (Built Up Roofing) waste from the porch roof, and gravel. Probably around 4000 pounds.  Cleaned the windows off. This took a lot of scraping with a razor blade and scrubbing with window cleaner.   Victory. We got all 3 bagsters into the dumpster and off they went.  I did also have to drop the oil pan and clean it out because it had a ton of sludge and coolant in it (don't even want to know why, but I'll be monitoring it) but I was in a hurry for that part of the project and it was dark and I forgot to take any pictures. Oh, also, picked up the raw aluminum stock for the actual transfer case clocking ring for the J10 just now... about 8" diameter, roughly 2" long, should be enough material for one do-over if I gently caress it up.  I'm hoping to get a chance to start making the clocking ring soon. Once that is done there's basically nothing keeping me from picking away at it in small pieces as I find the time, since it's all the ancillary crap like wiring, plumbing, exhaust, etc.
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Dec 19, 2019 19:35
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I seem to recall you mentioning previously a torque spec on the truck that was in foot-pounds, but had to be in inch-pounds, due to the size of the fastener. It may have been this very one, back when you disassembled it. Regardless, good to see the big beast moving again.
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Dec 19, 2019 23:08
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It may have also been me ranting about it on Facebook. I'm pretty sure I did anyways...
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Dec 20, 2019 00:56
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Man, I still want one of those. I mean, I have nowhere to put it, I don't even know if I could register it in CA, and I know my wife would kill me, but it sure would be a fun truck.
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Dec 20, 2019 00:58
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If it helps any, there's lots of info on the internet about using Prius bldc units and motor-generators in things other than prii. And it wouldn't take many of them to beat the stock motor on horsepower and torque. At 40hp and 225 ftlb each, and 190hp/425ftlb, I'd say five or six ganged together would actually beat a stock M39A2 series. ... And can you imagine how angry 99% of military truck owners would be about an EV military truck swap based on *Prius* parts and involving removing the multifuel diesel? They'd have a drat coronary.
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Dec 20, 2019 04:41
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As a long time thread lurker I'm thrilled to see the 5 ton operational again
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Dec 20, 2019 05:32
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kastein posted:If it helps any, there's lots of info on the internet about using Prius bldc units and motor-generators in things other than prii. And it wouldn't take many of them to beat the stock motor on horsepower and torque. At 40hp and 225 ftlb each, and 190hp/425ftlb, I'd say five or six ganged together would actually beat a stock M39A2 series. Oh. My. God. How do you have these thoughts? That's incredible.
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Dec 20, 2019 08:29
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Because I love junkyard parts especially when they would be 5 grand worth of traction motor if I bought them new. Worth noting, you'd need a hell of a battery pack to get anywhere. Luckily there's a ton of space under there and even under the hood to put one in, especially once you dispose of 3000 pounds of engine and transmission because they won't be necessary anymore.
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Dec 20, 2019 13:59
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You could really ruffle everyone's feathers by putting a diesel genset (preferably a Detroit) in the bed and running that to charge the batteries.
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Dec 20, 2019 15:32
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kastein posted:If it helps any, there's lots of info on the internet about using Prius bldc units and motor-generators in things other than prii. And it wouldn't take many of them to beat the stock motor on horsepower and torque. At 40hp and 225 ftlb each, and 190hp/425ftlb, I'd say five or six ganged together would actually beat a stock M39A2 series. You could have per-hub motor control as well. Who needs 6x6 with primitive locking differentials?
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Dec 20, 2019 15:49
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You guys are sick in the head. Never change. 
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Dec 20, 2019 15:50
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Yeah but then you lose the differential gear reduction. I suppose you could put a couple motors ganged up on each diff input flange. Actually that would be the easiest way to do this since there are two flanges on each diff and the input gear support bearings are easily capable of supporting the rotor too so you could make an adapter plate for the rotor, a housing for the stator, some seal housings and copy paste it 6 times to hook 6 motors to the 3 axles.sharkytm posted:You could really ruffle everyone's feathers by putting a diesel genset (preferably a Detroit) in the bed and running that to charge the batteries.
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Dec 20, 2019 16:25
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kastein posted:... And can you imagine how angry 99% of military truck owners would be about an EV military truck swap based on *Prius* parts and involving removing the multifuel diesel? They'd have a drat coronary. It would be worth it for this alone. kastein posted:I have nothing against a series hybrid, that's not a bad idea. Though it would eat your battery weight budget because those aren't light motors. Go full edit: bonus points if you can make it a diesel rotary somehow.
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Dec 20, 2019 17:08
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That rules the 5 ton is operational once more and leaving the engine open didnt ruin it. I did a similar thing with the 56 when I had the engine apart and left the rocker arms in the parts washer for like, years. Id have a panic attack every once in a while thinking about what might happen then when I finally got them out there were covered in fuzzy sludge that cleaned up easily and they were fine. Most of my pw mix is diesel but I had no idea how much water was in the cleaner that was also in there.
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Dec 20, 2019 18:47
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shy boy from chess club posted:That rules the 5 ton is operational once more and leaving the engine open didnt ruin it. Man, that would have been even worse, LDS465 parts are everywhere. I got my new injector hold down clamps in like, 2 or 3 days and it cost almost nothing, I think I paid 12 bucks each with used injectors included. I can't imagine IHC diamond engine parts are that easy to find. Tonight I got the propane heater wired and plumbed at the hangar and fired it up, and it needs a much larger tank as expected but does sorta work. My friend Jack got the diesel heater running as well and it needs some help but does work so at least we didn't freeze to death. Once that was all running, I set about measuring the transfer case and transmission exactly and started turning aluminum stock into chips... Spent a bit more time than usual getting a decent surface finish everyhere it matters, and hogged out a bunch of the center hole. The plateau in the middle will get completely removed too. The ring of crummy surface finish on the outside is where I need to cut pretty deep and don't have tooling that will do the job, I need to either fab or buy something.  Transfer case goes here, transmission goes on the other side.  That's all for tonight, it's late as hell and I'm beat.
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Dec 21, 2019 08:49
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Well. I couldn't get the tooling I needed into the spot I needed to get it with the fixtures I had available last time, because my lathe is at the very limit swinging an 8in round over the ways, nevermind clearing the carriage with it. So first order of business was to make fixtures out of whatever the gently caress I had around. Luckily I had a piece of 8x0.75 hot roll handy. This is why I try to buy the whole drop even if I don't need it immediately. It always comes in handy at the 11th hour later. So I lopped off about 2.5in of that and put a hole in it for my lanternpost tool holder with the huge drill press I got from another AI goons job years ago. Then I discovered that using this in a tool holder with a lanternpost tool holder on top of that results in being nowhere near perpendicular to the workpiece, and it chattered a lot and was deafeningly loud. Nobody ever said I was a good machinist. So I, uh, CUSTOM MACHINED a 3/16 wide slot into the underside with an angle grinder to visegrip a narrow cutting tool into. It took too long to remove material so I started just visegripping all the tools to the bottom as needed. If it's stupid and it works, it's not stupid.  Hogged out the centerbore where the shaft and input seal of the tcase go through it. The tcase register diameter shoulder was already turned precisely to the correct diameter, this next bore was non critical dimensionally so I just went for it.  Then very carefully surfaced the transmission mounting face and turned the male register diameter shoulder for the transmission down to the correct diameter, working a few thousandths at a time.  Parted it off the excess stock  Cleaned up the parting line with a file and degreased it. Looks alright for the amount of experience (nearly none) and tooling (whatever junk came with the lathe, sharp or not, and whatever junk I could scrounge around the shop) and what I paid for this loosey goosey lathe ($50) I'd say.   It's a few thousandths loose on the tcase side but there's nothing I can do about that now and it'll work fine, at worst I can wrap a loop of electrical tape around it to tighten it up. Just need to drill and tap the hole patterns now and I think I can mount the transfer case permanently!
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Jan 2, 2020 05:59
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Owns
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Jan 2, 2020 06:03
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Literally tipped my hat toward my phone screen. Your posting is a great source of inspiration to get back at my own projects. Nice work, man.
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Jan 2, 2020 15:55
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