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2014 Hyundai Accent GLS - Auto, 6-speed The lighting in the gearshift column is intermittently flickering (the reverse and the neutral lights) - would someone who's great with computers but average with cars be able fix this on his own? Each letter has its own light, and I don't have any other issues with the car's electrical that I know of. 2008 Subaru Outback How important is it for these vehicles to have matching tread on tires? I'm not familiar with how AWD works, and this is my fiancee's car - we recently had a flat in WV and had to get a used tire put on of the same size - it has a bit more tread than the rest of the tires do (7/32 vs 4/32 on the fronts and 5/32 on the other rear) - I know she needs new tires anyway, but I'm trying to not cause even more repairs on the vehicle this year if we can help it (head gasket, wiring harness, among other things). We rarely drive as it is, but I've never really owned an AWD vehicle so I'm a bit out of my element here.
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Dec 17, 2019 21:24
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Probably the shift position switch going out. And Subarus can handle up to a 2/32" mismatch. She hasn't been rotating her tires often enough, for starters. But those mismatches will absolutely grenade the AWD system over time.
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Dec 17, 2019 21:34
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How hard is it to shave tires? Maybe shops should have a shaving machine?
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Dec 17, 2019 21:39
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STR posted:Probably the shift position switch going out. Okay, thanks - the previous tire was 5/32" and matched the other rear, we just had to put something on to get home. It happened to have more tread than the rest, this was a real hillbilly shop I'll get her to replace all four soon enough.
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Dec 17, 2019 21:57
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I want to ask about speed sensitive steering on power steering pumps, specifically electrohydraulic versions. A lot of EH pumps can accept a VSS signal from the ECU to help slow the steering down when reaching higher speeds. I am looking into an electrohydraulic retrofit on a diesel that lacks an ECU because it's old as hell. So I couldn't use the speed-sensitive aspect. So my question is if I even need speed sensitive steering when my vehicle would only ever reach a speed of 80mph, if that. The Toyota MR2 and Volvo V50 are both much faster cars with EH pumps and it makes sense that you'd want to slow steering down when you're booking it. But as I said, if I'm only doing even 70MPH max mostly, does anything think speed sensitive steering is important? Do regular non-electric hydraulic steering pumps even have speed sensitive or RPM sensitive steering? I've also read about speed sensitive steering racks, but maybe that's a misnomer. French Canadian fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Dec 17, 2019 |
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Dec 17, 2019 21:59
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Charles posted:How hard is it to shave tires? Maybe shops should have a shaving machine? I haven't seen any shop near me that can shave tires other than race shops. Tirerack offers (or at least used to offer) the service.
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Dec 17, 2019 21:59
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Motronic posted:I haven't seen any shop near me that can shave tires other than race shops. With the ever increasing popularity of SUVs and AWD, it's kinda weird that places don't offer this. Though "you gotta buy four" would be more money for (probably) less work.
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Dec 17, 2019 22:26
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Uthor posted:Though "you gotta buy four" would be more money for (probably) less work. I think you nailed it.
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Dec 17, 2019 23:35
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Motronic posted:I think you nailed it. There’s bound to be legal liability in shaving tires too, and not enough demand to pay for a machine that does it, I’d think.
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Dec 18, 2019 04:08
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Chunjee posted:
Changed the O2 sensor to a third one... P0155 still happebing. Long Term Fuel % Trim Bank 1: 2.34% Long Term Fuel % Trim Bank 2: 5.47% I can get the Bank 2 O2 sensor to give me more than 0.0x Volts if I make it try to accelerate uphil but after the crest the ECU gets grumpy and shoves both o2 sensors to 0V gor a few seconds before going back.* The Short Term Fuel Trim is all going straight to 0 on both banks when the CEL hits, as is 02S1 trim in both banks. When the CEL hits the loop goes to "Open due to insufficient engine temperature" despite having been happily closed before the CEL. I have a bit more test driving to do, try to see what triggers it, because from cold it's fine for the first 5-10mins of driving. *(Edit: yeah if I sit at a red light for 1-2 mins or stomp the poo poo out of it so it drops gears then I can get real-looking readings out of Bank2 O2S1. I'm feeling like it's the ECU deciding something's wrong and choosing to only rely on Bank1 O2S1 and artificially trying to zero Bank 2's, which is why I can still get it to give numbers under some circumstances. But that's a total guess.) simplefish fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Dec 18, 2019 |
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Dec 18, 2019 08:10
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simplefish posted:When the CEL hits the loop goes to "Open due to insufficient engine temperature" despite having been happily closed before the CEL. yeah you are stuck in open loop or getting thrown back there because of the P0155. quote:When the engine is first started the system goes into open loop operation. In open loop, the ECM calculates the Air/Fuel ratio based on inputs from the coolant and MAF sensors. The system remains in open-loop until the following three conditions are met: If you still have your powder white O2 I would see if that gets you out of this. I too suspect that those LTFTs are placeholders and you need a reliable witness in the exhaust before they can be used as for diagnosis.
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Dec 18, 2019 12:23
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The powder white O2 gave exactly the same conditions as described but without the P0155. Those conditions are why I tried changing O2 sensors in the first place - the being thrown back into open loop. What is this about the exhaust, I haven't looked at that as a cause yet? I mean, beyond the O2 sensors that sit in the exhaust manifold by the block. If you can't tell I'm Bad At Cars, swapping the O2 sensor and cleaning the VVT filter screens is the most advanced maintenance I've done on my own. This is all new territory to me. simplefish fucked around with this message at 12:34 on Dec 18, 2019 |
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Dec 18, 2019 12:30
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simplefish posted:If you can't tell I'm Bad At Cars, swapping the O2 sensor and cleaning the VVT filter screens is the most advanced maintenance I've done on my own. This is all new territory to me. I can't help with your issue, but don't undersell yourself. O2 sensors and VVT filters are more than 90% of people will ever even attempt. The more you do, the more you learn. The more you learn, the more comfortable you become. It's a journey and you're ahead of the curve.
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Dec 18, 2019 13:25
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EVERYWHERE 
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simplefish posted:What is this about the exhaust, I haven't looked at that as a cause yet? I mean, beyond the O2 sensors that sit in the exhaust manifold by the block. Examining the exhaust gas can help us understand what the engine is trying to accomplish. The O2 doesn't just sit there to alert the government for smog failures, it tells the computer the result of combustion and the computer very much wants to combust correctly. Since your replacement O2 isn't communicating properly, you can't even leave open loop. The original complaint was all over the place idle right? You also mentioned "struggling to idle and nearly stalling" which sounds like a lean condition. If that is the case I would expect to see a LTFT of +10% or so at idle. If your STFT is also maxed out at idle; say around 25%, then you probably have a vacuum leak you can't hear. But it could be other things too, like fuel delivery. If it is a negative trim, that would send diagnosis in a whole different direction. If we can trust the O2 sensor again, I'd also like to see what all trims are reading when RPMs are held at 2500. STR posted:If it was a stuck EGR valve, it would be struggling to idle, possibly stalling. You need to check this. And other things. Chunjee fucked around with this message at 16:19 on Dec 18, 2019 |
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Dec 18, 2019 13:38
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I decided to go back to the knowledge board since the water has been muddied a bit with O2 sensor swapage.simplefish posted:Bank 2 O2 voltage drops to between 0 and 0.04V (while the Bank 1 reads like 0.7-0.9V) and the engine jumps into limp mode, throws CEL P0139 which for Toyotas is apprently VVT issue (so why does the bank 2 go to 0V? My google search on P0139 does not lead to any talk of VVT. Instead, consider this description: quote:The ECM cuts all fuel to the engine during deceleration of the engine and the O2 sensors all should respond with a voltage output below .2 volts showing the exhaust stream is high in oxygen content. The code is set if the O2 sensor for bank 1 sensor 2 does not respond to the fuel cutoff for 7 seconds or more. Here are some common causes. I've bolded the ones I am beginning to suspect. Defective Catalytic Converter Faulty Rear Oxygen Sensor wiring or connections Short to battery voltage in O2 sensor signal circuit Corroded wiring Fuel pressure too high Wild theorycrafting: leaky injector on bank 1 causing whole system to lean out? Pinched the wiring while replacing O2 sensor? You have not ruled out a timing issue but I would check that last.
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Dec 18, 2019 16:49
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Obligatory not a mechanic but I am an O2 sensor engineer. I know gently caress all about cars but I know way too loving much about O2 sensors. I assume your car's not actually old enough to have non-heated o2 sensors. My first suggestion is to grab all the low hanging fruit you can and check your O2 sensor wiring. P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P0139 Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor2) To me, it's unusual that you'd get a code set on two different banks (and front and rear but who's counting). That said, wiring harnesses eventually come together so if there's an issue on the vehicle side harness, that could cause issues on both sides. If it's starting to affect the heaters, this could cause issues... but not being a mechanic, I don't know how they really start manifesting themselves in an actual car. Failures I see are usually well past the point of no return... The white stuff on the O2 sensor is usually burnt oil. Not surprising given it's an older engine, I think? The reason you might be able to get actual readings out of the O2 sensor when you do funny stuff with shift/gas is the element may be getting hot by exhaust gas. If there's no damage to the element wires then this passive heating could get the sensor to control temp and operate correctly.
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Dec 18, 2019 17:17
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Do any of the headlight bulb manufacturers actually put out lumen ratings?
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Dec 18, 2019 19:06
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Osram does at least (that's the only one I googled so far but I figured they'd be good for it) Oh and all the ebay led bulbs will say they are 10000,000,000 lumens
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Dec 18, 2019 19:11
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simplefish posted:The powder white O2 gave exactly the same conditions as described but without the P0155. Since you can see it getting thrown back into open loop, you should be able to see the engine coolant temp, right? Where is it at? It's possible your thermostat is stuck or sticking, or has a weak spring on it - so when it opens, the engine cools off too much and goes back into open loop. Beyond that, it's time to see if the O2 sensors are actually getting power on the heater circuit. If they're not, you've got some wiring to troubleshoot. It's also possible that the fuse for the sensor heater circuit is blown (usually it's a fuse labeled emissions or something similar).
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Dec 18, 2019 19:43
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drat thing should be throwing more codes.
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Dec 18, 2019 19:51
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C-Bangin' it 
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Sorry for the wall of text:totalnewbie posted:Obligatory not a mechanic but I am an O2 sensor engineer. I know gently caress all about cars but I know way too loving much about O2 sensors. I assume your car's not actually old enough to have non-heated o2 sensors. The car's got the 1MZ-FE which wikipedia tells me was the first engine to have OBD-II, I don't know what that means in terms of unheated sensors. quote:To me, it's unusual that you'd get a code set on two different banks (and front and rear but who's counting). That said, wiring harnesses eventually come together so if there's an issue on the vehicle side harness, that could cause issues on both sides. If it's starting to affect the heaters, this could cause issues... but not being a mechanic, I don't know how they really start manifesting themselves in an actual car. Failures I see are usually well past the point of no return... quote:The white stuff on the O2 sensor is usually burnt oil. Not surprising given it's an older engine, I think? ----- Chunjee posted:I decided to go back to the knowledge board since the water has been muddied a bit with O2 sensor swapage. P1349 is normally fuel related except on Toyota where it's VVT issues - and mine's a Toyota. quote:Here are some common causes. I've bolded the ones I am beginning to suspect. I think the catalytic converter is toast for sure, the whole thing smells of unburnt fuel a lot and always has. Most cars do where I live. Emissions testing isn't really a thing. If the problem is wiring I'm going to give up, the car's only worth about $2k US, and that's if we're being generous. ----- Chunjee posted:Examining the exhaust gas can help us understand what the engine is trying to accomplish. The O2 doesn't just sit there to alert the government for smog failures, it tells the computer the result of combustion and the computer very much wants to combust correctly. Since your replacement O2 isn't communicating properly, you can't even leave open loop. There was Issue 1, from way back in August, before I parked it for 3 months. This is the CEL throwing P1349. This is the issue about not leaving open loop, things trimmed to 0 and Bank2 O2S1 being pinned at 0v Then when I collected the car, there was Issue 2: nearly stalling at idle, rpm bouncing around. Changing the O2 sensor fixed this. I also cleaned the MAF (and didn't give the ECU enough time idling to relearn tbh) first, so one of those 2 things fixed that. Now that the idle is OK, I'm thinking I can avoid cleaning the throttle body or going down the EGR route. Is that correct? However each of the salvaged O2 sensors throws me a P0155, which wasn't happening before I parked it in August. I cleaned out the Bank 2 VVT filter screen yesterday. It was pretty drat dirty, loads of black grit. I should have done the other one really but my fat hands have enough trouble fitting around stuff as it is and the othet one's at the back of the engine, and I was hoping Bank 2 would fix it. So today my plan is: Remove and clean other VVT filter screen Remove and clean both VVT solenoids Replace O2 sensor with original chalky one, see if idle issue comes back and/or P0155 goes away. I'll hold everything at 2500 and let you know what happens. ------ STR posted:Since you can see it getting thrown back into open loop, you should be able to see the engine coolant temp, right? Where is it at? It's possible your thermostat is stuck or sticking, or has a weak spring on it - so when it opens, the engine cools off too much and goes back into open loop. I'll throw a fuse in it too, thanks for the suggestion.
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Dec 18, 2019 20:49
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You didn't get P0155 until you tried salvage sensors, right? The Denso sensors Toyota uses usually die from the heater circuit going open on them (thus, P0155), unless the car is burning a lot of oil. You'd likely have more codes if the emissions fuse was blown, but I'm not 100% on what that fuse would run on your car. When it popped on my old car, I had about a dozen codes, but that's a GM... Why not just drop the $150 on a new sensor? That way you know you have a good sensor. If it's a matter of finding the right one, you may be able to get one from a similar year USDM 1MZ-FE, de-pin the plugs, wire the new one to the old plug housing (colors may not be the same though). That'd be the best bet if the "correct" sensor isn't easily available.
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Dec 18, 2019 20:56
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Hi thread. For those that remember, I fixed my brakes and bled them in order. The other drum could use the same treatment, but I've decided to see if I can find lift accsess - and make sure I have all the parts *before* taking stuff apart. My question is: what do you think of this? Rime posted:E: 2019 has a few tricks left up its sleeve, as my truck just suffered a dual timing guide failure and almost grenaded the engine. So that's $1500 gone. Nebakenezzer posted:You can always ask AI about this, what engine/transmission is it? Rime posted:It's the SOHC 4.0L. Ford engineers are idiots and put one timing chain at the back, requiring an engine pull and gasket kit for a $50 part. Also I knew my clutch was EOL so I got that done at the same time for $2600 all in. Not bad, still stings.
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Dec 18, 2019 21:23
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Nebakenezzer posted:Hi thread. For those that remember, I fixed my brakes and bled them in order. The other drum could use the same treatment, but I've decided to see if I can find lift accsess - and make sure I have all the parts *before* taking stuff apart.
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Dec 18, 2019 22:31
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Nope, every bit of that is legit. The OHV 4.0 is a durable, if somewhat gutless, engine. The SOHC 4.0, since they tried to change as little as possible and wanted to be able to use one casting for both heads, uses a timing chain from the crankshaft to a jackshaft sitting where the OHV's camshaft was. The jackshaft drives two chains, one front, one rear, each going to one head. This arrangement is somewhat fragile and given the placement of some timing components at the firewall-facing end of the block, makes repair an extremely labor intensive process. Usually it isn't caught until things have gotten so bad that the chains skip teeth and you have happy fun piston valve get together time. Which is neither happy nor fun, and the cheapest fix is a new engine.
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Dec 18, 2019 22:47
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PainterofCrap posted:Sounds like a starter mis-alignment; the starter gear catching on the flywheel, and going for a brief ride before disengaging. wesleywillis posted:Let the shop deal with it. The guy might not have touched the starter, but you mentioned the flywheel got machined or replaced or whatever. That *might* have required removing the starter (probably not but maybe). Ding ding ding, you both win a cigar. Starter got put in wonky, no charge to fix it.
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Dec 19, 2019 00:50
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STR posted:You didn't get P0155 until you tried salvage sensors, right? The Denso sensors Toyota uses usually die from the heater circuit going open on them (thus, P0155), unless the car is burning a lot of oil. You'd likely have more codes if the emissions fuse was blown, but I'm not 100% on what that fuse would run on your car. When it popped on my old car, I had about a dozen codes, but that's a GM...  Red is oil pooled in the black box thing, around the front/left-in-the-picture air tube. It seems to be blowing from the blue pipe. Could this be related?
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Dec 19, 2019 01:02
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taqueso posted:Osram does at least (that's the only one I googled so far but I figured they'd be good for it) Do you have a link for them and their H7 bulbs maybe? Sylvania, the North American version, just shows this.   I see a bulb with a coating on it, don't know how that can actually be brighter. Sounds like puffery to me. edit: Found a datasheet attached to this product family, at least, though it's not sold here. https://www.osram.co.uk/ecat/NIGHT%...EUROPE_UK_eCat/ edit 2: https://www.osram.co.uk/ecat/OSRAM%...EUROPE_UK_eCat/ 1500 lumens on both products. So, B.S. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Dec 19, 2019 |
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Dec 19, 2019 01:09
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(I agree.) Are you just looking to find brighter lights? Buy the 100+watt Hellas and be done with it, no?
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Dec 19, 2019 01:34
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Krakkles posted:(I agree.) Is that an option? Won't I need to wire them to a relay to the battery? I don't need overkill, the stock ones on my Mazda are pretty good, just I can see they're getting dimmer and due to be replaced, figured I may as well get the best possible choice.
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Dec 19, 2019 02:06
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simplefish posted:Red is oil pooled in the black box thing, around the front/left-in-the-picture air tube. It seems to be blowing from the blue pipe. Red oil? PCV valve is sucking oil up and loving your air intake seems like. gotem
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Dec 19, 2019 03:17
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Charles posted:Is that an option? Won't I need to wire them to a relay to the battery? I don't need overkill, the stock ones on my Mazda are pretty good, just I can see they're getting dimmer and due to be replaced, figured I may as well get the best possible choice.
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Dec 19, 2019 03:47
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simplefish posted:Yeah, that's correct. I haven't bought a brand new sensor as I don't really want to be putting more money into this, especially not triple figures, as it's a bit of a shitbox. As mentioned already, probably oil getting sucked up in PCV, likely because of significant blowby. Which, if this car relies on a MAF sensor, can certainly foul poo poo up. Charles posted:I see a bulb with a coating on it, don't know how that can actually be brighter. Sounds like puffery to me. They overwork the filament to make up for the coating. As a result the lifespan sucks.
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Dec 19, 2019 04:04
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Chunjee posted:Red oil? PCV valve is sucking oil up and loving your air intake seems like. gotem IOwnCalculus posted:As mentioned already, probably oil getting sucked up in PCV, likely because of significant blowby. Which, if this car relies on a MAF sensor, can certainly foul poo poo up. Thanks guys. I thought it might be PCV, the engine's well known for clogging them, but the alve'son the other side of the block so wasn't sure. In other news: Probably because I posted this... simplefish posted:I don't really want to be putting more money into this, especially not triple figures, Guess who now knows how to remove siezed-then-broken VVT solenoids! (And knows what it costs to order a new one...)
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Dec 19, 2019 06:00
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Charles posted:Is that an option? Won't I need to wire them to a relay to the battery? I don't need overkill, the stock ones on my Mazda are pretty good, just I can see they're getting dimmer and due to be replaced, figured I may as well get the best possible choice. Try picking up a set of bulbs from here: https://www.candlepower.com
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Dec 19, 2019 12:12
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Wasn’t sure if this would be the right place, but hybrids: worth it or no? I’ve been doing some number crunching but interested in others’ experience and opinions. Also found a site called fuelly where people report their mpg. Not huge data sets but neat to have.
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Dec 19, 2019 15:07
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Where are people selling used cars these days? We're looking to unload a car and need to know 1) where to list it for best results and 2) where to get reasonable comp prices so we don't ask for a stupidly low/high price. Craigslist seems to be kind of sparse compared to sites like AutoTrader, CarGurus, etc. But those big sites are typically for dealers, right?
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Dec 19, 2019 15:26
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Facebook.
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Dec 19, 2019 15:30
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simplefish posted:Yeah, that's correct. I haven't bought a brand new sensor as I don't really want to be putting more money into this, especially not triple figures, as it's a bit of a shitbox. Then keep chucking junkyard sensors at it until you find a good one. Hint: it'll be cheaper, in the long run, to just buy a new one. And it'll be a one and done affair instead of constantly swapping them. My car is a complete shitbox, but I do my best to keep it running well (it uses a wideband Denso sensor, just like your car... that's the most expensive thing I've bought for the car, and i'd like to keep it that way).
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Dec 19, 2019 15:34
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Uthor posted:Facebook. I was hoping that wasn't the answer, even though I heard a while ago that it's actually fairly popular. Weirds me out for some reason.
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Dec 19, 2019 15:38
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