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Was suppose to be a pair of these but one blew up on the lathe. Will need to get another block of spalted tamarind. 
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Dec 18, 2019 05:59
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Guess who forgot to use winding sticks on the slab he's flattening? This thing has so much twist to it. No 5 with a 8-10" radius, or a scrub plane. https://blog.lostartpress.com/2019/11/25/grind-the-iron-fit-the-chipbreaker-part-3/
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Dec 18, 2019 16:36
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I’m not sure I’d trust a knife sharpening service with a plane iron, but YMMV. Serendipitously I found myself stopped in traffic behind a van belonging to a local company that apparently only does sharpening of woodworking tools and blades, so come the time I'll be able to offload onto them.
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Dec 18, 2019 18:52
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Quick stairs question: I realized the other day that I couldn't follow my original plan of just re-using (and painting) the risers on the stairs where I'm replacing the treads. (The new stairs are about 6-7" longer than the originals, so duh me...) I head to the lumber yard to get some riser stock, and the guy asked me if I wanted it pre-routed. I know that risers can be routed to make stairs, but when (and why) would you route a riser itself? I'm guessing it's to seat the tread more firmly, but I can't find any mention of it anywhere. e: After much searching I found an obscure reference to this. Apparently it's a method wherein you dado the riser and rabbet the tread to set it (and do the same for the riser and the skirtboard). Seems like a lot of extra work for some basement stairs, lol. SouthShoreSamurai fucked around with this message at 00:46 on Dec 19, 2019 |
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Dec 18, 2019 23:16
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My mediocre skills at this hobby have landed me a relatively easy 5 figure contracting gig for a corporate client, and I think this is going to lead to me starting an LLC or an S Corp just to take in the profits if/when this happens again. Since I can then treat things as business expenses, what CNC should I get? I'd love an 8x4 but I don't think I can justify the floor space unless it's a Maslowe, which.... nnnngngghhh? It's really between the X Carve and the Shapeoko, I guess, but I'm not sure why I'd really want one over the other. Anyone got thoughts? Also using this as an excuse to upgrade a few other tools around the shop, probably invest in upgrading my 60s craftsman router to a nice Dewalt or something
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Dec 19, 2019 08:00
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Quick stairs question: I realized the other day that I couldn't follow my original plan of just re-using (and painting) the risers on the stairs where I'm replacing the treads. (The new stairs are about 6-7" longer than the originals, so duh me...) I'll check my junior bumper book of stair making when I get home.
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Dec 19, 2019 09:04
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Quick stairs question: I realized the other day that I couldn't follow my original plan of just re-using (and painting) the risers on the stairs where I'm replacing the treads. (The new stairs are about 6-7" longer than the originals, so duh me...) Jaded Burnout posted:I'll check my junior bumper book of stair making when I get home. OK I've taken a flick through my handbook just to see if there was anything I'd forgotten or overlooked, and yeah I can't see much need for routing risers. It's common to route stringers for closed string stairs, and to mitre stringers and risers for cut string stairs, and also common to route treads to accept the risers, but I wouldn't personally see a need for routing the risers. You could potentially rabbet or dado the bottom of the risers to accept the back of the treads but I don't think anyone bothers. Here's some photos of the cheap stairs in my house, which feature routed stringers, routed treads, and plain old risers slotted into the tread above and screwed straight into the back of the tread below.     Perhaps the other woodfolk here could chime in on whether it would provide any substantial improvement in strength or quality to do so? Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Dec 19, 2019 |
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Dec 19, 2019 12:39
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Sockser posted:My mediocre skills at this hobby have landed me a relatively easy 5 figure contracting gig for a corporate client, and I think this is going to lead to me starting an LLC or an S Corp just to take in the profits if/when this happens again. Make sure your LLC/S corp shows a small profit at least occasionally and isn't just a way to be able to expense machinery. There's some funny tax stuff with with hobbies/businesses you should look into if you haven't already to make sure the IRS considers what you're doing a business and not a hobby. I think if you are showing any profit you are good to go though. https://www.thebalancesmb.com/is-this-business-for-real-or-is-it-a-hobby-397675
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Dec 19, 2019 15:05
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I'm not a router expert but I've looked into these machines a lot and everything I've seen leads me to think you want a proper commercial 4x8 machine for actual business use. The shapeokos etc just don't seem to be set up to handle 24/7 use.
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Dec 19, 2019 17:12
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I mean, the CNC wouldn’t really be for business use, I’m still just a hobbyist, I just build arcade cabinets for fun and once in a while people want to pay me for it, and also I can deduct the expense. A 5x5 would probably be the sweet spot actually, if something in that range that isn’t stupid expensive exists
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Dec 19, 2019 17:20
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~10" Red Alder bowl from a tree I needed to take down in my backyard. 
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Dec 19, 2019 17:29
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I have a Shapeoko 3 and love it. Admittedly I haven't used any other CNC routers. The only issue I've really had is the odd job will disconnect mid way and you have to restart from scratch, which wastes time cutting air while it catches back up to where it failed. (I've dabbled a bit in manually editing gcode as speedier solution). This however is rare, and I've read can be resolved by buying better USB cables and lowering electrical interference. Which is something I need to try. That's using Carbide Motion (their custom app) to send the code. Its possible other controllers can resume easier. Another thing I plan to explore, but since Carbide Motion works 95% of the time I haven't had a huge need to do that yet. I can also confirm, even as a hobbyist, get the larger one. I originally got the Shapeoko3 base size and having only a 16x16 cutting area can be a pain. It's rare I cut larger pieces so I thought I would be fine, but even batching out smaller items I wish I could do more in a single job. I plan to buy the XXL upgrade kit later this year. I also highly recommend the touch probe. I wish I had bought it sooner. And regarding the LLC, I also went this route. I mostly do craft shows and some etsy sales and i've still found it beneficial. A few big jobs can add up and mess with your personal taxes. Being able to expense tools, and supplies, and even your shop space, can be a real benefit. Another user here recommended you show a profit the first few years, and my accountant said the same thing. My first year I came in at a slight loss as I had bought some tools and he ending up removing those from my claims to show a small profit. In the end I paid $19 in taxes, but he said it was worth it to avoid an audit. This was in Canada though so your mileage may vary. keep it down up there! fucked around with this message at 18:01 on Dec 19, 2019 |
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Dec 19, 2019 17:58
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Make sure your LLC/S corp shows a small profit at least occasionally and isn't just a way to be able to expense machinery. There's some funny tax stuff with with hobbies/businesses you should look into if you haven't already to make sure the IRS considers what you're doing a business and not a hobby. I think if you are showing any profit you are good to go though. This I think you would be better off with a DBA to start with. You don't have to have sales (you do still need to report no sales) to keep a DBA alive. LLC/S corp require profits and fees to keep it alive. If you are serious about a CNC for business needs write down a needs assessment. What is your target goal for the tool (ie: what will you make with it)? What is the ROI and how will you measure it? What is your PBP? If you want one to learn how to use, and could see a possible business use for it, but not an immediate one then purchase it with your money. There are ways to "donate" the tool to the business later but that is more of an asset thing.
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Dec 19, 2019 18:28
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So I’m creating something and I had a piece of scrap wood which I believe is red Oak? (I know, I know) I’m routing the edges with a rounded bit and this piece of wood does not like to be routed. It’s shipping, it’s tearing, it’s splitting in places. Basically, it’s nasty. Is there a nice inexpensive piece of wood I can go get it at the wood store that will play nice with my router bit, and stain nicely in a walnut finish? ( and support coat rack hooks in terms of strength?)
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Dec 19, 2019 19:41
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Feenix posted:So I’m creating something and I had a piece of scrap wood which I believe is red Oak? (I know, I know) For alternatives, ash, birch, beech, and maple should all be plenty hard and strong, take stains well, and are relatively inexpensive. Harry Potter on Ice posted:~10" Red Alder bowl from a tree I needed to take down in my backyard. This is very pretty. I’ve never worked with alder but it sure looks nice there-like cherry but not so red. Has the European fruitwood antiques color without having to wait 200 years.
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Dec 19, 2019 19:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Oak isn’t usually that difficult to work with, but sometimes it’s gnarly. If you’re not already, maybe take a few small passes to make your roundover instead of doing it all at once? It’s possible my passes were too deep but they really weren’t very deep at all... 1/8th of an inch, maybe? Also just the way it tore out chunks all along.... maybe it’s just a funky piece of wood.
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Dec 19, 2019 20:54
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Coat hooks you say? I just hung one of those today.  And I really need to get around to painting that wall.
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Dec 19, 2019 21:02
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Jhet posted:Coat hooks you say? I just hung one of those today. Nice! What's the finish on the hooks?
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Dec 19, 2019 21:03
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Jaded Burnout posted:Nice! What's the finish on the hooks? That’s oil rubbed bronze, but they came that way. Wood is walnut with BLO, and I couldn’t find a good screw color to match the hooks, so I went with something close to the wood for fixing it to the wall.
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Dec 19, 2019 21:15
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I just wanna add, for the small business accounting stuff: buying equipment is not necessarily identical to other types of expenses. You are buying a thing that becomes an asset of the company, e.g. you spent $2k and now the company has a $2k asset. You then depreciate that asset over time, typically on a ten year schedule. Also re: showing a profit: you must show a profit at least three years out of five, on a rolling "looking backward five years" basis. Many businesses do not show a profit in their first year and that's quite normal, but also many businesses are audited. Definitely get yourself set up with whatever business license/fictitious permit/etc. are required by your locale before you start buying stuff - for one thing, you can usually avoid paying sales tax on materials & supplies. All of this is subject to whatever a real accountant says, of course. My source: my wife, an artist, used to run her art practice as a business, but wasn't profitable for three years and we had to convert to filing it as hobbyist. Which isnt' terrible, you can still offset all your sales with costs, but you can't go into a negative cost situation where you're actually reducing your income tax (income from other sources) by losses from operating your business any more. (As an aside: everyoen else in this thread, if you ever sell stuff you make, look into your ability to offset the income tax on that income with your deductible hobby expenses, you could save a few bucks on your taxes if you just keep some basic records!) Thirdly, the main reason to do an LLC is the liability protection. If you're making things people use, it's really not a bad idea to do this. It's separate from your insurance policy (you will need insurance, yes, indeed) - basically means that if your company fucks up real bad/gets sued real bad, your personal assets are safe from the business's losses. I'm thinking, like: an arcade cabinet bursts into flames and burns down a ten million dollar building and you are named in a lawsuit, even if you are successful it's far too much to defend and the liability is way more than your insurance policy, so you fold, you can walk away without them taking your house, kind of thing. It costs more to set up an LLC, but not *that* much more that you shouldn't even consider it. You must also decide whether you'll be an s-corp or a c-corp, and you should make some other important accounting decisions (definitely create a separate business account, do not co-mingle your personal and business money; decide whether to use a cash or accrual accounting method and stick with it; look into the enormously crazy-good benefits of the personal 401(k), which lets you sock far more money into tax-advantaged retirement than poor working stiffs can, etc.) Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Dec 19, 2019 |
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Dec 19, 2019 21:15
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Not to be all, "/r/legaladvice" in the DIY subforum, but we set up an LLC for my wife's piano studio and getting professional help to set it all up, explain how our books should be run, etc, was invaluable. We run our own books and go back to him for tax prep every year, but it was money well-spent to know exactly what we were doing and why. We've never run in the red on it (with our overhead being our home, related insurance, and materials cost being negligible), but I could see how in an equipment/material heavy field you'd want to know exactly what you are and are not liable for year over year.
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Dec 19, 2019 21:27
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Jhet posted:Coat hooks you say? I just hung one of those today. Almost the exact same hooks I got, too. Cast Iron, but the tops have a flat head instead of rounded.
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Dec 19, 2019 21:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Oak isn’t usually that difficult to work with, but sometimes it’s gnarly. If you’re not already, maybe take a few small passes to make your roundover instead of doing it all at once? A cherry aldernative, you might say.
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Dec 20, 2019 00:49
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No. No one would say that.
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Dec 20, 2019 01:27
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I’ve started using a coping saw for the first time since high school because I want to make some home made toys for my son. At the moment I’m just doing some tree cut-outs. Things improved vastly in terms of being able to turn the saw when i got a bench vice and starting cutting more or less vertically, instead of a clamp and cutting from above. But, the coping saw blades are twisted as gently caress almost immediately after I start using them. Is there something im probably not doing right, or is this just a feature of buying a cheap saw and blades combo to start with? I can mostly compensate for it by only using a small bit of the blade to cut, so that section is aligned, as im only cutting through 19mm pine, but I’d still like to know if there are some key things I’m missing to not wreck the poo poo out of the blade immediately. Solemn Sloth fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Dec 22, 2019 |
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Dec 22, 2019 05:17
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Is there any reason I'm spacing on why I can't leave some boards I'm glueing up in clamps for the weekend? It was colder than I wanted in my studio so I wanted to give them enough time to set but then some things came up so I couldn't get to them yesterday and now I'm thinking they might stay that way until tomorrow?
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Dec 22, 2019 18:24
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Is there any reason I'm spacing on why I can't leave some boards I'm glueing up in clamps for the weekend? It was colder than I wanted in my studio so I wanted to give them enough time to set but then some things came up so I couldn't get to them yesterday and now I'm thinking they might stay that way until tomorrow? Totally fine and normal.
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Dec 22, 2019 18:26
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Solemn Sloth posted:I’ve started using a coping saw for the first time since high school because I want to make some home made toys for my son.
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Dec 22, 2019 18:33
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Hypnolobster posted:Totally fine and normal. Alright sweet thanks. I taped the cauls so that shouldn't have been too big of an issue but this was one of those glueups that I tried to do fast and solo in very little space and everything felt like it went very not smoothly (even though it was fine in the end) and my hair looks loving GREAT from all the gorilla glue I cut out because I had to move under the table a few times 
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Dec 22, 2019 18:36
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Alright sweet thanks. I taped the cauls so that shouldn't have been too big of an issue but this was one of those glueups that I tried to do fast and solo in very little space and everything felt like it went very not smoothly (even though it was fine in the end) and my hair looks loving GREAT from all the gorilla glue I cut out because I had to move under the table a few times Impossible to remove glue in hair is another excellent reason not to use gorilla glue!
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Dec 22, 2019 19:13
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My first time turning something. The lid could be a bit tighter, but I am happy with it. I'll put some stain on it later.
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Dec 22, 2019 20:29
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Some glues (urea-formaldehyde in particular) need like 24+hrs to fully cure in cold weather. You can definitely take stuff out of clamps too soon, but you can't leave it in clamps too long. What would you rec for future cedar glueups? I had a couple kinds of gorilla glue and titebond and was told this was the best choice by a friend, we'll see how it turns out
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Dec 22, 2019 20:44
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I use titebond for almost everything, epoxy if I can't easily clamp it up and it's not too big, and superglue for splits and cracks. It hasn't steered me wrong yet. 
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Dec 22, 2019 20:46
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Impossible to remove glue in hair is another excellent reason not to use gorilla glue! What are the other reasons?
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Dec 22, 2019 21:03
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I use titebond for almost everything, epoxy if I can't easily clamp it up and it's not too big, and superglue for splits and cracks. It hasn't steered me wrong yet. These were 10'x20"x2" imperfect boards I pulled out of the tree myself without the right tools but I think it'll look good. Even if not.. always learning. I believe the word I'm looking for is "rustic" haha Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Dec 22, 2019 |
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Dec 22, 2019 21:11
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:What would you rec for future cedar glueups? I had a couple kinds of gorilla glue and titebond and was told this was the best choice by a friend, we'll see how it turns out There's nothing wrong with gorilla/polyurethane glue, it's just a lot messier and more expensive than yellow glue. If you don't need the advantages polyurethane glues have (works better on wetter/oily wood, more waterproof ) PVA glue will probably do what you need easier and cheaper. If you're using air dried WRC in the wet PNW of unknown (probably higher than ideal) moisture content, that would be a good reason to keep using gorilla glue. I use Tightbond I or Tightbond Extend 90% of the time-if you don't need the water resistance of Titebond II or III, TB I and Extend are better in every way IMO. I used to use a nasty PITA urea-formaldehyde glue because it has no creep until I discovered the Tightbond Extend which also dries super hard and doesn't seem to creep. Epoxy for repairs with missing wood or some exterior stuff, and Tightbond II for cutting boards/exterior work, and CA glue for some odds and ends. I keep a little dry hide glue around for repairs and the million little things it is occasionally really useful for. So, uh, just like you gotta have 5 planes and 14 chisels and 3 saws to do anything, I guess everyone should have 6 different types of glue laying around too? Jaded Burnout posted:What are the other reasons?
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Dec 22, 2019 21:18
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Mr. Mambold posted:Does the saw have a tensioner you can tighten? Yep, the handle acts as tensioner, I’ve been going as tight as it will let me but doesnt seem to make a difference.
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Dec 22, 2019 21:23
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I mostly hate gorilla glue because it has been marketed as 'gap filling' and so people use it to try and glue broken furniture back together without clamps or anything. That expanding foam action will actually push the pieces apart if they aren't clamped properly, and while it does fill gaps, it has very little strength in those gaps. When that repair inevitably fails the first time someone bumps into it, they bring it to me and I have to spend 2 hours trying to clean all the crunchy gorilla glue foam out, where if they hadn't gooped it up the pieces could have been easily glued back together. It does have some advantages, they're just not advantages I usually need. Ah. The "gorilla glue" I use is normal wood glue type stuff.
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Dec 22, 2019 21:30
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I have always thought Gorilla Glue was the brand name for regular CA.
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Dec 22, 2019 21:50
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I just use their normal PVA https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0058NU81U/ Probably overpaying somewhat, could probably make do with normal PVA.
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Dec 22, 2019 21:58
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