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KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
They had a special setting day this week at my gym where some setters from Europe came to one of our gyms and were teaching stuff to the whole setting team. They reset like 1/3 of the gym and the theme was coordination/dynamic.

They made that thing which I found hilarious. I'm not even sure it qualifies as rock climbing, but I sure had fun. Most were not that stupid, but I think I now understands what "competition style bouldering" means.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hD2ITTq47og

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Dec 13, 2019

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Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005

Looks neat! For your kids?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

OK I think I officially need to take a short break from climbing :( My shoulder was very sore 3 weeks ago, very limited range of movement so I just didn't climb for like 5 days and it felt better before I went climbing 2 days in a row. Then I've been regularly going 2-3 times the last two weeks and it hasn't been bad, but definitely still sore.

I did notice it while belaying for my partner on Monday, when I pull up with my dominant hand it would irritate my shoulder. Not bad enough to make me want to stop or anything though. But last night it was especially bad. It also hurts to get into a plank position. It's like right where the shoulder meets the tricep.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Sab669 posted:

OK I think I officially need to take a short break from climbing :(

That would be a smart move, otherwise you might be forced to take a long break instead.

If you can afford it, you could/should get a physio to look at it. Might help you heal faster and do exercises so you do not get an actual injury later down the line

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Not sure if my insurance would cover that, but I might look into it. Definitely is the smart move, I'm just afraid that my lazy rear end will have a hard time getting motivated to climb again if I stop :ohdear:

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

Proper shoulder warmup before you start climbing is super important. So are supplementary exercises that strengthen your rotator cuffs, particularly external and internal rotations with dumbbells or elastic bands.

Aside from that, a lot of climbers allow their upper arms to fully stretch in the shoulder sockets when they climb, and it turns out that's really bad for shoulder health in the long run. So it might help to start keeping your upper arms "locked in" when you climb, especially for overhangs.

Jester Mcgee
Mar 28, 2010

A lot of things have happened to me over my life.

I tried out a Moon board for the first time today. It took a few tries, but I knocked down a couple of the benchmark V4s. It was a ton of fun! I really liked that the problems were so much straightforward climbing as opposed to the fancier stuff on the main bouldering wall.

Roil
May 4, 2010

Jester Mcgee posted:

I tried out a Moon board for the first time today. It took a few tries, but I knocked down a couple of the benchmark V4s. It was a ton of fun! I really liked that the problems were so much straightforward climbing as opposed to the fancier stuff on the main bouldering wall.

Yea, I really need to try the moonboard at our gym again now that I'm stronger than I was last year.

Roil
May 4, 2010

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Looks neat! For your kids?

Both for the kids and myself - I'll be adding a bunch of volumes to help make it more difficult, plus, it's great for traversal-laps. The kids are definitely able to use it when we don't go to the gym. I also just purchased 10 bolts that I can use to teach kid 1 how to do some lead clipping, which would be fun to use as a teaching tool to get them ready to do it in the gym. I do have a decent amount of smaller holds as well as jugs that I've turned upside down/sideways to turn into slopers/crimps/underclings/side-pulls. The gym I go to also said that they would be willing to sell me some of their older holds at a great deal.

I do have an idea though with the volumes that I plan on working on - using a dremel to add texture and whatnot to the volume itself rather than just flat in order to help add variation. Since I get the dremel Thursday or Friday, I'll probably be doing some stuff this weekend, and I'll have to post up pictures when I've gotten somewhere with it.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005

Roil posted:

Both for the kids and myself - I'll be adding a bunch of volumes to help make it more difficult, plus, it's great for traversal-laps. The kids are definitely able to use it when we don't go to the gym. I also just purchased 10 bolts that I can use to teach kid 1 how to do some lead clipping, which would be fun to use as a teaching tool to get them ready to do it in the gym. I do have a decent amount of smaller holds as well as jugs that I've turned upside down/sideways to turn into slopers/crimps/underclings/side-pulls. The gym I go to also said that they would be willing to sell me some of their older holds at a great deal.

I do have an idea though with the volumes that I plan on working on - using a dremel to add texture and whatnot to the volume itself rather than just flat in order to help add variation. Since I get the dremel Thursday or Friday, I'll probably be doing some stuff this weekend, and I'll have to post up pictures when I've gotten somewhere with it.
Nice! Feel you get a decent workout out of it?

When you say volumes, do you mean bigger holds or boxes? Want them to add some steepness?

Considered mounting the upper boards overhanging? Shouldn't be too hard and you'll gain some climbable distance, but also make them much better for training!

Roil
May 4, 2010

Sigmund Fraud posted:

Nice! Feel you get a decent workout out of it?

When you say volumes, do you mean bigger holds or boxes? Want them to add some steepness?

Considered mounting the upper boards overhanging? Shouldn't be too hard and you'll gain some climbable distance, but also make them much better for training!

I mean stuff like https://escapeclimbing.com/collections/volumes-ready-brand at the top. I would consider adding some over-hang, but the main issue is that this is right where you come out from the house and it's right next to cars, so I don't want to make it awkward to have to walk past it in my garage on a regular basis. Also, having thought about it in the past, I don't know how much benefit I would get out of just 2' of angled holds at the very top with a flat wall below. I figure that I would get more variety and interesting options with the volumes (I've made 2 so far) spread around the wall above head-height. I haven't had a REAL chance to go for a duration climb on it, but I'm probably gonna give it an hour or so during lunch today and see how it goes.

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED
I'm in my mid thirties and I've been climbing for just under two years now, and my bouldering max grade hasn't improved in about a year and half. My gym doesn't really grade but it's somewhere around the top end of V3/bottom of V4. I'm still making some improvements in route climbing and dynamic climbing, and I'm much, much more consistent in flashing problems that are within my physical capability, but I'm at the point where it feels like I need to get physically stronger to progress but that's not happening. I'm working really hard outside of the climbing gym to improve: weighted pull-ups, a lot of scapular and core training, aerobic training, flexibility training, hangboarding, but the only place I'm really seeing improvement is on the hangboard and crimpy problems, which I figure is because the two years in is still in the newbie gains period for tendon adaptation. Unfortunately, professional coaching is beyond my means right now. Any ideas?

Kasumeat fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Dec 17, 2019

On Terra Firma
Feb 12, 2008

Kasumeat posted:

I'm in my mid thirties and I've been climbing for just under two years now, and my bouldering max grade hasn't improved in about a year and half. My gym doesn't really grade but it's somewhere around the top end of V3/bottom of V4. I'm still making some improvements in route climbing and dynamic climbing, and I'm much, much more consistent in flashing problems that are within my physical capability, but I'm at the point where it feels like I need to get physically stronger to progress but that's not happening. I'm working really hard outside of the climbing gym to improve: weighted pull-ups, a lot of scapular and core training, aerobic training, flexibility training, hangboarding, but the only place I'm really seeing improvement is on the hangboard and crimpy problems, which I figure is because the two years in is still in the newbie gains period for tendon adaptation. Unfortunately, professional coaching is beyond my means right now. Any ideas?

I'm in the same grade slump. When I do something harder it always comes down to just having better footwork and much less to do with strength. The problems that "feel" more difficult usually have a workaround that makes them significantly easier with a bit more thought put into them. Unfortunately I get too frustrated too easily and give up before I get there. This is true even with problems I did fine in a previous session.

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Kasumeat posted:

I'm in my mid thirties and I've been climbing for just under two years now, and my bouldering max grade hasn't improved in about a year and half. My gym doesn't really grade but it's somewhere around the top end of V3/bottom of V4. I'm still making some improvements in route climbing and dynamic climbing, and I'm much, much more consistent in flashing problems that are within my physical capability, but I'm at the point where it feels like I need to get physically stronger to progress but that's not happening. I'm working really hard outside of the climbing gym to improve: weighted pull-ups, a lot of scapular and core training, aerobic training, flexibility training, hangboarding, but the only place I'm really seeing improvement is on the hangboard and crimpy problems, which I figure is because the two years in is still in the newbie gains period for tendon adaptation. Unfortunately, professional coaching is beyond my means right now. Any ideas?

Probably at those grades you aren't being held back much by strength, especially if you can do weighted pull-ups of any kind and hangboard. You almost assuredly don't need to do aerobic training at all, I feel like in my 30s the amount of training I can recover from has decreased, so you might want to dial back what you're doing and focus on quality over quantity. Never stop flexibility/mobility work though. How often do you actually climb each week and what does a typical session look like for you?

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED

M. Night Skymall posted:

Probably at those grades you aren't being held back much by strength, especially if you can do weighted pull-ups of any kind and hangboard. You almost assuredly don't need to do aerobic training at all, I feel like in my 30s the amount of training I can recover from has decreased, so you might want to dial back what you're doing and focus on quality over quantity. Never stop flexibility/mobility work though. How often do you actually climb each week and what does a typical session look like for you?

I climb about 2.5 times/week. A typical session is a warmup of about 10 minutes of light dynamic mobility work, followed by about 20 minutes of climbing easy climbs where I'm focused on climbing very precisely and efficiently. Then roughly 1.5 hours of climbing, where I will usually try to project one climb, or just jump around several climbs that are challenging but doable. I try to rotate between different styles of climbsoverhanging, technical, dynamicto minimise fatigue. I'll finish with either hangboarding or 4x4s for about 15 minutes, alternating between the two every month or so.

Edit: I definitely understand that I have lots of room for improvement technique-wise, but the climbs at my grade that I can't do almost always tend to be the ones the ones that are very overhanging or require a big pull on a small hold (plus the parkour style ones, but at least I'm improving at those), which makes me think that strength is a bigger deficit for me than technique. I certainly could be wrong though.

Kasumeat fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Dec 17, 2019

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED
quote edit oops

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Kasumeat posted:

I climb about 2.5 times/week. A typical session is a warmup of about 10 minutes of light dynamic mobility work, followed by about 20 minutes of climbing easy climbs where I'm focused on climbing very precisely and efficiently. Then roughly 1.5 hours of climbing, where I will usually try to project one climb, or just jump around several climbs that are challenging but doable. I try to rotate between different styles of climbsoverhanging, technical, dynamicto minimise fatigue. I'll finish with either hangboarding or 4x4s for about 15 minutes, alternating between the two every month or so.

Edit: I definitely understand that I have lots of room for improvement technique-wise, but the climbs at my grade that I can't do almost always tend to be the ones the ones that are very overhanging or require a big pull on a small hold (plus the parkour style ones, but at least I'm improving at those), which makes me think that strength is a bigger deficit for me than technique. I certainly could be wrong though.

Well, a few things. Technique becomes more important as terrain gets steeper, it's a lot harder to take weight off your hands when your feet are way underneath and in front of you than it is when you can just stand on them. Big moves on small holds are the same deal, you're probably supposed to be driving with your feet more than you are just yarding on a crimp, and getting more precise in your movement to the next hold on a big move will make it feel much easier. Standing way up, hitting it with your arm already bent and your body positioned the way you want it to be when you're on the hold, getting your hip into the wall, etc. Sure, you can just get stronger and thug your way through steep climbs, but then you just have the same problems at a higher grade.

The other thing that may be happening is a lot of commercial gyms kind of bullshit their grades from v0-v3/v4(sometimes up to v6 I hear) and then things start to suddenly ramp back up to outdoor levels, which means there's a steeper step from v5-v8 or so. It also just gets harder to go up in grades the higher you go. I don't think your plan in the gym is unreasonable, a lot more structured than mine certainly. You probably aren't climbing enough, it's nearly impossible for me to improve on 2 times/week, and I can really tell the difference when I'm able to do 4x/week, even something like 2x climbing + 2x training at home a week more or less feels like I'm treading water. Might be time to embrace the process and not grade chase :v:. Or just give up on things you find hard and start hopping on v6 and v7 climbs you think are in your style, this is probably a good idea anyway, grades are pretty subjective.

Niyqor
Dec 1, 2003

Paid for by the meat council of America

M. Night Skymall posted:

The other thing that may be happening is a lot of commercial gyms kind of bullshit their grades from v0-v3/v4(sometimes up to v6 I hear) and then things start to suddenly ramp back up to outdoor levels, which means there's a steeper step from v5-v8 or so.

This is definitely true. A friend of mine used to be the head route setter at a gym and he confirmed they tried to start having grades line back up with outside at v6 so that new people would have a quicker progression and not get discouraged.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Im sure ir would be easier to help you if you could show a video or two of you climbing. Is there a lot of climbers getting stuck at the v3 and v4 range in your gym? You might have very stiff grading and it's a common plateau area. In my gym the first big plateau seems to be at v4-v5 and getting over it means climbing a lot or being really strong.

Do you have weight to lose? That might be a key factor if you time in the gym is an issue want to work on stuff other than getting better technique/wall time. Also core work. Do you work your core a lot? It's crazy important and often neglected because it's boring and painful.

I'm also in my thirties and make sure you're not overdoing it. 4x4 and such wreck me for a while. Try to make your training time count. Do a lot of what you suck at and want to improve. Take long rests between attempt when you're working on hard problems.

Also recovery is critical for me. Any lack of sleep (which is often because of children) or me eating terribly gets reflected in my climbing.

Also I'll join the guy who said that strength probably isn't your problem. Unless your gyms grading is way stiffer than mine, I cant see a guy who can do 10 pull ups and can hang on a hang board for any amount of time needing to be stronger.to get to v5.

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll try to get some video of some climbs that I feel I can't do because of lack of strength.

M. Night Skymall posted:

The other thing that may be happening is a lot of commercial gyms kind of bullshit their grades from v0-v3/v4(sometimes up to v6 I hear) and then things start to suddenly ramp back up to outdoor levels, which means there's a steeper step from v5-v8 or so.

KingColliwog posted:

Im sure ir would be easier to help you if you could show a video or two of you climbing. Is there a lot of climbers getting stuck at the v3 and v4 range in your gym? You might have very stiff grading and it's a common plateau area. In my gym the first big plateau seems to be at v4-v5 and getting over it means climbing a lot or being really strong.

To reiterate, my gym doesn't use the V grade system, they just have colour grades that I'm estimating based on the toughest gyms I've climbed in that do have V grades. But yes I think the grade I'm stuck at has a pretty big range of difficulty that's compressed into it, since there are several climbs that I flashed and can complete pretty much every time, but also climbs that feel way, way beyond my ability. And yes it is the where the majority of people with some experience climb at.


quote:

Do you have weight to lose? That might be a key factor if you time in the gym is an issue want to work on stuff other than getting better technique/wall time. Also core work. Do you work your core a lot? It's crazy important and often neglected because it's boring and painful.

I'm also in my thirties and make sure you're not overdoing it. 4x4 and such wreck me for a while. Try to make your training time count. Do a lot of what you suck at and want to improve. Take long rests between attempt when you're working on hard problems.

Also recovery is critical for me. Any lack of sleep (which is often because of children) or me eating terribly gets reflected in my climbing.

Also I'll join the guy who said that strength probably isn't your problem. Unless your gyms grading is way stiffer than mine, I cant see a guy who can do 10 pull ups and can hang on a hang board for any amount of time needing to be stronger.to get to v5.

I'm probably around 15% body fat, which isn't great, but it's really hard to push it lower for me, especially in the winter, I'm a natural endomorph. My diet is very good, I exercise 5-6 days a week, and I have a physically active job. With some serious effort I pushed myself to around 10% in my early twenties and it completely destroyed my metabolism, and that was in my twenties. I think my biggest weight issue is probably actually that I carry a lot of muscle on my thighs and rear end from cycling, but I can't really do anything about that. I train core 3-4 times a week, so I don't think that's it either. And sleep is definitely not an issue, I sleep 8-9 hours most nights. Overtraining is certainly a possibility, but I don't think that's happening. My overall energy level is pretty decent and I haven't really noticed a decline in strength, just a plateau.

Ubiquitus
Nov 20, 2011

Kasumeat posted:

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll try to get some video of some climbs that I feel I can't do because of lack of strength.



To reiterate, my gym doesn't use the V grade system, they just have colour grades that I'm estimating based on the toughest gyms I've climbed in that do have V grades. But yes I think the grade I'm stuck at has a pretty big range of difficulty that's compressed into it, since there are several climbs that I flashed and can complete pretty much every time, but also climbs that feel way, way beyond my ability. And yes it is the where the majority of people with some experience climb at.


I'm probably around 15% body fat, which isn't great, but it's really hard to push it lower for me, especially in the winter, I'm a natural endomorph. My diet is very good, I exercise 5-6 days a week, and I have a physically active job. With some serious effort I pushed myself to around 10% in my early twenties and it completely destroyed my metabolism, and that was in my twenties. I think my biggest weight issue is probably actually that I carry a lot of muscle on my thighs and rear end from cycling, but I can't really do anything about that. I train core 3-4 times a week, so I don't think that's it either. And sleep is definitely not an issue, I sleep 8-9 hours most nights. Overtraining is certainly a possibility, but I don't think that's happening. My overall energy level is pretty decent and I haven't really noticed a decline in strength, just a plateau.

Posting some videos of climbs you feel you can't do is best, that way we can independently help assess whether it's a technique or strength issue. If you can flash certain things within a consistent range at your gym but fail at others, most likely it's technique related (could also be inconsistent setting, but that would be nearly impossible to assess online).

Specifically for climbing, reducing leg mass is key, so if you can stomach not cycling, that would be suggested.

Last, if you're working out 5-6 days, I would question whether you're adequately rested, and doing core 3-4 days a week seems excessive.

Slow News Day
Jul 4, 2007

I lead a group of 30-40 climbers across all skill levels, and I notice that people realize significant gains in climbing ability once they stop doing whatever other sports they do (most common is running, then weightlifting) and focus on just climbing.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

What if I don't do any other sports/acitvity? :v:

Jester Mcgee
Mar 28, 2010

A lot of things have happened to me over my life.

I stopped running because after a hard run I couldnt try hard climbing for about three days. It way a really strange feeling. I wouldnt feel fatigued, but when it came time to really pull on the bouldering wall, or really fight through pump, I just had nothing in the tank.

Sigmund Fraud
Jul 31, 2005

Sab669 posted:

What if I don't do any other sports/acitvity? :v:
Enjoy the muscular imbalance and neanderthal posture. You can't win!

SwashedBuckles
Aug 10, 2007

Have at you!

Kasumeat posted:

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'll try to get some video of some climbs that I feel I can't do because of lack of strength.



To reiterate, my gym doesn't use the V grade system, they just have colour grades that I'm estimating based on the toughest gyms I've climbed in that do have V grades. But yes I think the grade I'm stuck at has a pretty big range of difficulty that's compressed into it, since there are several climbs that I flashed and can complete pretty much every time, but also climbs that feel way, way beyond my ability. And yes it is the where the majority of people with some experience climb at.


I'm probably around 15% body fat, which isn't great, but it's really hard to push it lower for me, especially in the winter, I'm a natural endomorph. My diet is very good, I exercise 5-6 days a week, and I have a physically active job. With some serious effort I pushed myself to around 10% in my early twenties and it completely destroyed my metabolism, and that was in my twenties. I think my biggest weight issue is probably actually that I carry a lot of muscle on my thighs and rear end from cycling, but I can't really do anything about that. I train core 3-4 times a week, so I don't think that's it either. And sleep is definitely not an issue, I sleep 8-9 hours most nights. Overtraining is certainly a possibility, but I don't think that's happening. My overall energy level is pretty decent and I haven't really noticed a decline in strength, just a plateau.

Are you climbing by yourself or in a group? I find its really helpful to ask people that climb harder than I do how they would approach a move or problem. Sometimes the answer is nut up and pull hard, but most of the time there is some beta I can learn from.

Thats not to say you cant learn from people climbing at the same or lower level either - everyone approaches a climb a little differently.

AriTheDog
Jul 29, 2003
Famously tasty.
As someone who has been plateaued for a long time, strength usually isn't the issue but it certainly doesn't hurt. If you were a sedentary goon before climbing you may have some severe core strength deficiencies or flexibility deficiencies even if you can do ten pull ups. Also if you never work at crimpy climbs, or slopers, or whatever, you won't get better at those things. This includes the mental aspect - if you don't like pushing your limits and risking falls it's really hard to get good at bouldering. Sometimes it can help to have a climbing buddy push you a little, verbally, while you're working those moves. It's really easy to have fun while treading water in terms of improving your climbing. New routes coming up at the gym regularly means you can stay the same and still have a good time.

I barely climbed over the last month due to illness and my forearms were sore for a couple of days after climbing again for the first time in ages...

M. Night Skymall
Mar 22, 2012

Finished up my last comp of the local season, or at least the last one I'm going to. This was the year of the dyno for me and I can finally get dynos that are in the normal range of grades that I can get other styles in, and it's super satisfying. It's also really helpful for comps because 1 move wonder dynos take so much less effort to send than some beta intensive crimp fest which is my normal style. Anyway, Janja Garnbret was there and holy poo poo she is so strong. I guess she got there late so she rolled by and warmed up on one of the climbs I was working and it was loving surreal, was like every hold on there was the best jug she'd ever touched. I also didn't recognize her at all (because why would you expect her to be at some local comp) and I was like "wow, this team kid I've never seen before is loving strong" :v: There's a lovely stream of her doing the men's finals problem, but it cuts in and out randomly, and it looks like they don't have the part where she actually sends it. Guess that's why they're a climbing gym and not a tech company.

Hopefully going to redpoint my first 5.12a outside on Monday, good year of climbing.

bvj191jgl7bBsqF5m
Apr 16, 2017

Í̝̰ ͓̯̖̫̹̯̤A҉m̺̩͝ ͇̬A̡̮̞̠͚͉̱̫ K̶e͓ǵ.̻̱̪͖̹̟̕
Does anybody live in Vancouver? I've been bouldering for a couple of months now and would like to climb with people other than whoever happens to be working on the same problem as me at the time.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
Anyone else had a rotator cuff tendinopathy? I'm getting treated by a professional and it's not a really bad case, but I'd like to know how well it healed for you if you had the same issue. I've had similar issues in the past when doing Judo, but the requirements are not the same so I'd like to know how it went for other climbers.

Anything specific and amazing you did that helped a bunch and I should try/talk to my physio about?

KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jan 9, 2020

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED

SwashedBuckles posted:

Are you climbing by yourself or in a group? I find its really helpful to ask people that climb harder than I do how they would approach a move or problem. Sometimes the answer is nut up and pull hard, but most of the time there is some beta I can learn from.

Thats not to say you cant learn from people climbing at the same or lower level either - everyone approaches a climb a little differently.

I usually boulder on weekday afternoons so the gym isn't busy, but I do always ask for help if I see somebody send something that I can't.

Here are the videos of me climbing a couple problems that I felt limited my strength. However, watching them, I definitely see how there's room for improvement in my technique. I look really sloppy in both. However, I still need to figure out how to improve my technique, not just that it has to be done. I think that spending some time focusing on climbing slightly easier climbs more smoothly and efficiently might help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEfh9qBcbxQ
Showing off the same problem from the side:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBO--0MjEm8
The grey volumes are all in, but the toe chip on the little pyramid is not mine. I wish I got a better shot of the hold I'm going for, but it's pretty high. It's juggy with moderate texture but with a really fat rim so you have to hit it pretty deep if going dynamically, so I'm farther from sticking it than it looks. I also made several attempts to keep my left foot low and just go a little dynamically, using my right foot to push off of the pink handhold, the pyramid, or the large grey starting volume, but it's worse. This problem more than the other one feels like I just need more strength. I could climb the bottom section a little more controlled, but I think it's probably better to be a little more swingy and dynamic here to preserve strength for the lock-off?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=om8LQV4d23g
I didn't get a detailed view of this one, but it's about 20% overhung. The hold I'm going for is worse than it looks, I can't stick it going dynamically. It's a more positive the father left you are on it, but getting farther left is both higher and more lateral than where I'm touching it. The hold I'm going from is also not great, it's a slopey pinch. I really need to pinch it hard to stay on it as my centre of gravity rises. The left foothold I go from is slopey and low texture, if I use any momentum to push off of it my foot pops. The only thing I can really think of is trying to place my left foot down with a little more external rotation in order to get my hips closer to the wall thus making the handhold easier to hold onto as I stand, but that would make the poor foot even worse. Might be worth it though. I've seen very tall climbers use the holds below and right of me for feet, but I don't have the reach for them to be useful.

KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs
For that first one, I don't think that heel hook is the right beta. To me it looks like you'd put the right foot on the hand hold and smear/flag the left foot and go with a big dynamic right hand. Even if you were to stick it with your heel hook, due to the angle of the hand hold it would probably be pretty hard to match and keep going.

On the second one, if you can't get to it static with your current beta, you should try going drop knee-ish with your right foot pressing in the side of the volume on the right of your current foothold.

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED

KingColliwog posted:

For that first one, I don't think that heel hook is the right beta. To me it looks like you'd put the right foot on the hand hold and smear/flag the left foot and go with a big dynamic right hand. Even if you were to stick it with your heel hook, due to the angle of the hand hold it would probably be pretty hard to match and keep going.

On the second one, if you can't get to it static with your current beta, you should try going drop knee-ish with your right foot pressing in the side of the volume on the right of your current foothold.

1st problem: I tried that, but there's no way to stay on the wall if you put your right foot that high. If you look at the side view, the wall is quite overhung and from there there's nowhere to put your left foot because the other large pink hold is blocking the lower footholds. The angle is too much to stand on it with your left foot just flagging. I'm pretty sure I could finish the problem if I hit that hold, there's enough opposition between the handhold I'm on and going to that it looks pretty secure to me, like a crossover gaston. From there, it doesn't look very difficult to match by putting your weight on your left foot and scooting it over to the far right.

2nd: Interesting thought, I never tried that. I wish I'd taken a better angle to show this, but the difficulty here is that the volume tapers out from being very narrow at the top to larger at the bottom, so you'd have to get your foot fairly low, so I'm not sure if it's doable. Worth a try though.

Kasumeat fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Dec 24, 2019

Xyven
Jun 4, 2005

Check to induce a ban

Kasumeat posted:

1st problem: I tried that, but there's no way to stay on the wall if you put your right foot that high. If you look at the side view, the wall is quite overhung and from there there's nowhere to put your left foot because the other large pink hold is blocking the lower footholds. The angle is too much to stand on it with your left foot just flagging. I'm pretty sure I could finish the problem if I hit that hold, there's enough opposition between the handhold I'm on and going to that it looks pretty secure to me, like a crossover gaston. From there, it doesn't look very difficult to match by putting your weight on your left foot and scooting it over to the far right.

2nd: Interesting thought, I never tried that. I wish I'd taken a better angle to show this, but the difficulty here is that the volume tapers out from being very narrow at the top to larger at the bottom, so you'd have to get your

You almost definitely need to just put your right foot on the hold your right hand starts on, turn your right shoulder into the wall and straighten out as you reach with your right hand. If you can't keep your foot on while doing that it is probably a footwork problem. Even if you were on a horizontal roof that would be a great foothold

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED

Xyven posted:

You almost definitely need to just put your right foot on the hold your right hand starts on, turn your right shoulder into the wall and straighten out as you reach with your right hand. If you can't keep your foot on while doing that it is probably a footwork problem. Even if you were on a horizontal roof that would be a great foothold

Which problem are you referring to?

Xyven
Jun 4, 2005

Check to induce a ban

Kasumeat posted:

Which problem are you referring to?

The pink one on the jugs

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED

Xyven posted:

The pink one on the jugs

That's not possible, look at it from the side. The lower of the pair of pink holds blocks it.

Xyven
Jun 4, 2005

Check to induce a ban

Kasumeat posted:

That's not possible, look at it from the side. The lower of the pair of pink holds blocks it.

You literally put your foot on it to do the heel hook.

Kasumeat
Nov 18, 2004

I SHOULD GO AND GET FUCKED

Xyven posted:

You literally put your foot on it to do the heel hook.

Ah okay, it sounded like you meant the starting handhold, not that one. I tried that a few times. The problem with that beta is that as you said, you have to turn your body into the wall. That makes the reach not doable. You can see how extended I am when my body is farther over to the right trying to make the reach.

Edit: It's also just a really uncomfortable position to be in and move from at my height, those holds are very close together.

Kasumeat fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Dec 24, 2019

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KingColliwog
May 15, 2003

Let's go droogs

Kasumeat posted:

Ah okay, it sounded like you meant the starting handhold, not that one. I tried that a few times. The problem with that beta is that as you said, you have to turn your body into the wall. That makes the reach not doable. You can see how extended I am when my body is farther over to the right trying to make the reach.

Edit: It's also just a really uncomfortable position to be in and move from at my height, those holds are very close together.

You'd gain some reach by going right foot on the hold youre already on when doing the heel hook, right hip on the wall left foot sort of flagging to the left VS your current heel hook beta. Put the left foot on the wall and push hard with the inside edge on the wall to help push your hip to the wall then go dynamically to the next hold with your right hand while keeping the left on the hold you matched. You could even dyno while keeping the other hand on if you really couldn't reach it.

Looking at both videos that really looks like the beta. The foot it great and the hand is alright and they are positioned just right.

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