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My first car was a Geo Tracker, which I'm surprised in retrospect I didn't kill myself in.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:15
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Jiminy Christmas! Shoes! posted:My first car was a Geo Tracker, which I'm surprised in retrospect I didn't kill myself in. i had an ancient rustbucket 2wd 4 banger ford ranger in rural new england, i definitely should have died bought it for five hundred dollars and sold it for five hundred dollars tho
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Dec 16, 2019 17:19
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Is there any decent resource to find cargo area dimensions? I’m trying to figure out what cars my equipment cart will fit in and it’s kindof a pain since other than pickups everything seems to just list volume and I have to dig into forums to find cargo area length.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:24
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nm posted:Mazda2. They're cheap so you can get something from the 2010s with things like modern airbags and ESC. They're simple as hell (they do have an electric PS system, but I haven't heard of issues). They have a fantastic manual. The engine is basically a standard under stressed NA japanese 4-cyl. I'm 6'4" and I drive one. I can't fit in any year Miata for reference. And as an added incentive to only get the manual, the automatic in the Mazda2 is trash. A loving four speed tied to an engine that has to be flogged to the fun end of the tach to do anything useful. Unfortunately it seems that most new buyers of Mazda2s didn't get the memo, or perhaps everyone with a manual Mazda2 is hanging on to them. But they are fantastic little cars. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:basically the newest safest poo poo you can afford from a mass market brand. you want good visibility, reasonable fuel economy and insurance costs, reliability, and it not to be particularly cool. stability control and all the airbags you can find. i might stay away from other safety monitoring stuff because it is possible to learn bad habits, but i'm of a mixed mindset on this. i think the ~10k price point opens up some good options in the 4-5 year old Hyundai Elantra vein. I realize inflation is a bitch, but even accounting for that, anyone getting a $7k car bought for them in my high school class was definitely a high roller.
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Dec 16, 2019 17:58
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My 17 year old is in an '08 base Impreza with a 5 speed. It's god a couple parking lot dings and one bit of brokenness on the air dam from when I was teaching her to drive. I'm not sure how good of an idea it is, but it's safe enough, boring enough and pretty slow. She's also going to O'Neil Rally winter school in it (her adamant request).
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Dec 16, 2019 18:06
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Motronic posted:She's also going to O'Neil Rally winter school in it (her adamant request). Can you be my dad?
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Dec 16, 2019 18:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:I realize inflation is a bitch, but even accounting for that, anyone getting a $7k car bought for them in my high school class was definitely a high roller. i mean average car transaction price is up 1.6x from when i bought a car in 2003 as a 16 year old i am also not suggesting that you buy a car for your kid. make them buy some piece of poo poo or whatever, that's what happened to me! but if you are going to buy a car for your kid, you should buy something safe. motronic's kid's car is probably fine.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:31
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KillHour posted:Can you be my dad? I have a savings account stashed away for my kid to take a class at Bondurant, assuming Bob's current wife doesn't completely gently caress the school up before then. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:i mean average car transaction price is up 1.6x from when i bought a car in 2003 as a 16 year old All fair. I just don't think you need to hit $10k to get something that most people would consider safe enough.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:59
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what are you gonna buy for 2-4k that is reliable and safe enough? when i pop that in autotrader i'm getting a lot of decade+ Ford Focus sedans and a lot of way worse ideas
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Dec 16, 2019 19:25
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Split the difference, because yeah the $2-4k range is pretty rough. $5-7k could get you a nice example of just about any Honda that isn't a Pilot or Odyssey, circa 2008-2012.
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Dec 16, 2019 20:09
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My first car (in 1997) was a $500 '88 Ford Escort GL 5 speed that had all sorts of problems and became non-cost-effective to keep fixing about a year in. My second car was a slightly newer '91 Ford Escort GT. Basically nobody in the entire high school had a car that cost more than $1500. Nobody outside of the family that owned Sargento Cheese could possibly have afforded a car that cost more than that. Adjusted for inflation, that's around $2500 now. $10k for a teenager's first car sounds utterly insane to me and I wonder how many midwestern families could afford that?
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Dec 16, 2019 21:27
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8th gen civic is extremely reliable, plentiful in north america, had a lot of manual trans versions built, and could easily be had for less than $4k I bought my 2008 manual trans DX in 2014 or 2015 for $4500 CAD. We took it over 300k km with only routine maintenance and only got something different because my exwife crashed it. Plus it was fun to drive Also yeah a lot of people in here are the type that wouldnt imagine buying a car more than a few years old and must be pre-certified and still in warranty and poo poo so take that with a grain of salt. Any Honda or Toyota sedan built in the last 20 years would probably be a good pick hot cocoa on the couch fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Dec 16, 2019 |
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Dec 16, 2019 21:51
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Looking to replace my wife's SUV with something a little bigger, thinking about a Sequoia. Having seating for more people would be great, and we have an 18 foot travel trailer (weighs ~4500 loaded) that we tow with a Tacoma, but it doesn't feel very happy about it. Anyone got experience towing with a Sequoia or anything to say either way?
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Dec 16, 2019 22:28
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Faustian Bargain posted:Looking to replace my wife's SUV with something a little bigger, thinking about a Sequoia. Having seating for more people would be great, and we have an 18 foot travel trailer (weighs ~4500 loaded) that we tow with a Tacoma, but it doesn't feel very happy about it. Anyone got experience towing with a Sequoia or anything to say either way? I mean, it's gonna tow a shitload better than a Taco, but it's still not a really long wheelbase so don't expect magic depending on what "doesn't feel happy about it" means. I assume you have a load leveling hitch and maybe a sway bar? If so and your main complain is power you should be happy with the Sequoia.
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Dec 16, 2019 22:42
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:8th gen civic is extremely reliable, plentiful in north america, had a lot of manual trans versions built, and could easily be had for less than $4k i've driven a series of absurd beaters of various kinds and a lot of unsafe cars and that's fine - but i don't think i would put my kid in a 1993 ford ranger or a 1995 nissan maxima or a 2003 honda accord for instance. maybe the honda, but probably not. cars got a lot safer right after that.
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Dec 16, 2019 23:02
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Motronic posted:I mean, it's gonna tow a shitload better than a Taco, but it's still not a really long wheelbase so don't expect magic depending on what "doesn't feel happy about it" means.
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Dec 16, 2019 23:06
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shortspecialbus posted:My first car (in 1997) was a $500 '88 Ford Escort GL 5 speed that had all sorts of problems and became non-cost-effective to keep fixing about a year in. My second car was a slightly newer '91 Ford Escort GT. Basically nobody in the entire high school had a car that cost more than $1500. Nobody outside of the family that owned Sargento Cheese could possibly have afforded a car that cost more than that. Adjusted for inflation, that's around $2500 now. $10k for a teenager's first car sounds utterly insane to me and I wonder how many midwestern families could afford that? drat almost what I had. First car was an 89 Escort with the 4spd manual. 500 bucks and had to put another 300 into it in repairs. Second car was a 92 Escort LX 2dr. That was like 1800 maybe. Those things are death traps. I’ll probably buy my daughter a Ford Escape when it’s time for her to drive. I won’t make her learn stick though, they’re almost non existent these days They don’t even make you learn how to parallel park anymore where I live. How’s that for making you feel old
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Dec 17, 2019 00:44
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hot cocoa on the couch posted:Also yeah a lot of people in here are the type that wouldnt imagine buying a car more than a few years old and must be pre-certified and still in warranty and poo poo so take that with a grain of salt. Any Honda or Toyota sedan built in the last 20 years would probably be a good pick This thread pretty much never advises people to go pre-certified, except for like one rare edge case. I think there's bias just by nature of the thread. If you can't spend more than 2k the type of car matter less than the specifics of the individual car you're looking at. People who know their way around cars can get a 2k car and keep it running well enough to keep their job. I'm not sure that's the same for non-car folks. It's also a lot harder to give generic advice for a 2k car than a 10k car, etc. What "well my first car was 1500" is missing is that cash for clunkers murdered the bottom end market for like a decade and the average price of a new car has skyrocketed while wages have remained flat. Everyone is paying more for their cars these days, even outside of inflation.
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Dec 17, 2019 01:45
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The only upshot in the whole thing is that cars, in general, last much longer than they used to. Outside of problem models, you can expect nearly anything to do 150k miles without too much work, if not 200k+.
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Dec 17, 2019 03:15
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxDHuthGIS4 Cars are a lot safer than they used to be. Not sure if this is going to sway anyone from buying a cheap, older car for their teenager.
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Dec 17, 2019 06:04
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your kid is almost guaranteed to do dangerous rear end poo poo in their car because teenagers are very stupid anyway, that is a good video! IOwnCalculus posted:The only upshot in the whole thing is that cars, in general, last much longer than they used to. Outside of problem models, you can expect nearly anything to do 150k miles without too much work, if not 200k+. also true. 200k miles should be very doable with limited maintenance and light repair (maybe a water pump, timing belt, some squishy suspension stuff, possibly a head gasket)
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Dec 17, 2019 13:06
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I have recently helped a friend get a car for her 17 year old, and our research landed is square in 2001-2011 timeframe with operating budget under $6k. There are many safe and reliable cars in that pocket, including top picks like Camry, Accord and Prius. After test driving a bunch of stuff, we got a 2005 Camry with 120k miles from a private party for $3,400. About $600 in preventative maintenance on top. Kid put like 20k miles on it since last winter, so far so good
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Dec 17, 2019 17:14
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:your kid is almost guaranteed to do dangerous rear end poo poo in their car because teenagers are very stupid I'm pretty sure the only reason I (and my C10) survived my teenage years was the incredible lack of power from that tired tree fiddy.
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Dec 17, 2019 17:46
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Nitrox posted:I have recently helped a friend get a car for her 17 year old, and our research landed is square in 2001-2011 timeframe with operating budget under $6k. There are many safe and reliable cars in that pocket, including top picks like Camry, Accord and Prius. After test driving a bunch of stuff, we got a 2005 Camry with 120k miles from a private party for $3,400. About $600 in preventative maintenance on top. Kid put like 20k miles on it since last winter, so far so good hope its one of the trims with the side airbags and even if it is the side impact performance is awful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3JiWuuy3JM 2005 is same generation. this video also gives you a great perspective on the small overlap test which is introduced for the MY2012 test shown. the prior tests are moderate overlap. edit: note that good / acceptable is relative to same year so the MY2012 does not perform worse in absolute terms than the 2004.
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Dec 17, 2019 18:28
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Hi, big never-dealt-with-a-dealership-before dumbass here. We're finally replacing my wife's 2004 camry and we really need something larger for our fatass dogs so we've settled on a Tucson. I got prices from 4 dealerships and the lowest one is $28,994 (sadly not available in a color we want) and the others are $31,175 - $32,400 with TT&L. Do I just email them one at a time saying "hmm thanks but someone else hit $28,994, what can you do?" or am I overlooking many things? I have our credit scores (both 760 give or take) but we haven't gotten pre-approved anywhere yet. Should I dangle that out there or does it not really make a difference at this stage?
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Dec 18, 2019 23:02
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Make sure they're giving you "out the door" numbers since dealers love to pull nickel and dime bullshit on all the fees they "have" to charge. But yes, it's pretty much "someone else is offering me $X, if you can't beat it I'll buy from them". Don't need to mention the color or anything. I'm assuming you are planning on financing it - it might not hurt to mention that at this stage since you're already dealing in purchase price and not monthly payment. Manufacturer-subsidized financing can come with either a below-market rate or cash on the hood. When I bought my CR-V, I actually got both.
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Dec 18, 2019 23:12
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FWIW if these are all OTD prices, I'd just ask the closest dealer if they'll do 28k "right now" (or whenever you're ready to buy) and see if they bite. The price matching can go on forever and dealers know this. I had one dealer that kept telling me "whatever your lowest price is, we'll beat it by $100, just show us the quote" but then when you get "final offers" they are hesitant to put it in writing for that reason. I ended up getting a killer deal on a Prius a few years ago by doing $400 under what the best dealer could quote me. FWIW Toyota is huge on volume bonuses so they'll sell a bunch of extra cars at a loss to get the bonus.
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Dec 19, 2019 01:23
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Looking at new cars to replace our forester. Here’s our wants: Price: under 27k Type: suv (we have a kid and that’s what my wife prefers to drive) Wants: apple CarPlay integration, good visibility, maybe something that doesn’t require an expensive windshield if it gets cracked, blind spot monitoring. Something similar to the forester is fine. I love the visibility it offers, but I despise the CVT. I’ve heard some aren’t bad, but ours has such a delay, especially going from reverse to drive. It’s also not great from a standstill. The reason I mentioned the windshield is our Forester has eyesight, which is fine, but I don’t use any of the features. We live in Virginia where glass isn’t covered by insurance so when a rock hits the glass you get to pay for the glass plus the calibration of the cameras, so that sucks. I wouldn’t mind finding something without the smart safety stuff but it seems nearly impossible. The only safety stuff I like is blind spot monitoring and a backup camera. We’re currently looking at Honda CR-V EX model year 2018 or 2019. It has the turbo engine and from what I’ve heard, the CVT isn’t bad in it, but we’d need to test drive to make sure. Also with the EX comes all the safety features, but I think you have to actively turn some of them on (like the one that keeps you in your lane), so that’s good at least. Any other suggestions? We’re thinking a Mazda CX-5, but their infotainment doesn’t really amaze me...I had a Mazda 3 for a bit and using the knob on the center console to do anything was kind of annoying. The integration I’ve seen with CarPlay seems pretty lovely to. I wouldn’t be against a used model either-I can always just throw an aftermarket CarPlay radio in there.
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Dec 19, 2019 03:40
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Granted this experience is pretty old, but the one Honda CVT I've driven (2014 Accord 2.4 rental) felt drat good to me. Certainly much more responsive than the five speed automatic I have in my 13 CR-V.
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Dec 19, 2019 04:07
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The CR-V's current CVT is very, very good for a CVT (compared to other CVTs). Its not a must avoid like the first gen Chrysler/Nissan ones.
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Dec 19, 2019 23:02
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vincentpricesboner posted:The CR-V's current CVT is very, very good for a CVT (compared to other CVTs). Its not a must avoid like the first gen Chrysler/Nissan ones. Is the oil dilution issue still a thing?
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Dec 19, 2019 23:12
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nwin posted:Is the oil dilution issue still a thing? It's an issue with nearly every DI engine. I must be in the minority, because the CVT on the CR-V was... OK. Not awful, but not good. However, if you floored it, the engine sounded like it was miserable putting down the power (which was considerable for the whopping 1.5L displacement). It totally turned me and my wife off from the car, and she ended up with a CX-5. Also, the CR-V's TOUCHSCREEN-ONLY interface was godawful. Laggy, especially in Android Auto/Apple Car Play. The CX-5's command dial was much easier to use while moving, because of the screen placement and the lack of a touchscreen input requirement.
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Dec 20, 2019 00:31
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sharkytm posted:It's an issue with nearly every DI engine. DI? Interesting on the touchscreen only interface...I saw a video of it and it seemed a bit laggy, but I didn’t think the touchscreen would be a big deal. Food for thought during the test drive.
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Dec 20, 2019 00:50
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nwin posted:DI? Direct Injection I believe the oil dilution is only an issue if you make a lot of sub 5 minute trips and your car doesn't get up to temperature.
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Dec 20, 2019 02:16
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mariooncrack posted:Direct Injection Yeah, and it’s only an issue in very very cold climates.
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Dec 20, 2019 02:33
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sharkytm posted:It's an issue with nearly every DI engine. Its funny we tried the CX-5 and loved the looks but its crampt space was a dealbreaker since we needed room for 2 carseats, but we found the Mazda felt so much slower! This was in 2018 though, with the base model no-turbo Mazda vs the 1.5t Honda. The better fuel economy, better size and better acceleration made us go that way versus the sexier and better handling Mazda. The CX-5 base engine reminded me of my 2010 Corolla, which is not good. Both are great cars, you cant really go wrong either way. Both are in every magazines top 5 compact SUVs list, most of them they are 1/2 or 3rd.
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Dec 20, 2019 19:06
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Yup. We knew it was a compromise... It always is. The interior quality of the Mazda really won my wife over, along with the sportier handing and infotainment system. The CR-V had incredible interior space and more comfortable seats for me. Pretty hard to go wrong with either, that's for sure. I haven't driven the turbo Mazda, but the CX-5 was plenty quick coming from an '07 Fit.
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Dec 20, 2019 20:10
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vincentpricesboner posted:The CR-V's current CVT is very, very good for a CVT (compared to other CVTs). Its not a must avoid like the first gen Chrysler/Nissan ones. I can vouch for this (assuming it’s the same CVT that they use in the 1.5 Civic and Accords) My last car was a 2013 Impreza (which was considered to have a decent CVT at the time), but the difference between the driving experience of the two cars is night and day. The Civic feels much like a more traditional transmission while the Subaru was constantly revving to like 5k RPM just to merge onto the highway. I feel like a lot of the difference is caused by the engines, since the Honda 1.5t provides a good bit of torque at low RPM’s, there isn’t a lot of reason for the engine to go above 3k or so unless you’re flooring it. As others have mentioned, oil dilution is only really an issue if you’re making very short trips in very cold weather...which probably isn’t great for any engine since it doesn’t give the oil a chance to warm up properly. Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Dec 20, 2019 |
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Dec 20, 2019 20:25
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My mom wants to get rid of her huge Lexus SUV (RX350 I think?) and replace it with something smaller, easier to handle and without the crazy levels of tech that she doesn't know how to use. She has her eye on a Mazda CX-5. Those are a decent pick, right?
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Dec 23, 2019 15:40
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the rotary knob to control infotainment takes a bit of adjustment but it's a good interface once you learn it if she wants to go even smaller there's the CX-3
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Dec 23, 2019 16:47
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