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What are those parallel lines you see on the back? If the source video gets posted (not a cell phone video of the screen), please link it too. edit: It does look like a Jeep Liberty to me though.
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Dec 26, 2019 03:52
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`Nemesis posted:My friend was killed christmas eve, does anyone recognize the vehicle that ran her down? Leading guess is a Jeep Liberty. As mentioned source video would be great, otherwise can anyone get a downloadable link on this video? I'd like to try grabbing some frames to post some more easily seen poo poo.
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Dec 26, 2019 06:50
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Jesus sorry to hear that.  You should post it on Reddit as well as they have a pretty good track record of identifying cars even with the lowest video quality.
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Dec 26, 2019 08:51
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Unfortunately the business with the security camera posted that video - all I have right now. Edit: whoever it was also hit a utility pole, I kinda think it might be part of the pole on the roof?
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Dec 26, 2019 09:01
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2014 Chevy Cruze 1LT, 1.4 turbo w/auto, 80k miles. It's been randomly surging at idle off and on for awhile. Friend had me change out the plugs (which were beyond done). The surging got a lot worse yesterday. It has a historical code for system lean, pending codes for both the MAF and MAP out of range. Unplugging the MAF gets rid of the surging, but the engine fan goes into dustbuster mode immediately, we get a reduced power message, traction control message, and pending codes for the ambient temp sensor and a couple of other things (which are all part of the MAF anyway). Unplugging the MAP doesn't do anything. Can't find any vacuum leaks, no cracks, nothing in the intake has ever been apart except the air filter box. The short term fuel trim is at +35% at idle (even after disconnecting the battery for a bit), but smooths out and stays +/- 5% of zero while driving. The car is bogging a bit around 2k. The ECU is also reporting the intake air temp in the 40s - it's in the 60s outside, and it's pretty much stuck at exactly 50F. The throttle position is bouncing between 15-18% at idle while it's surging, stays at 16% when it's not surging at idle (MAF unplugged). Long term I'm not paying much attention to, since I've both cleared codes and disconnected the battery (it's basically following short term). Am I right in thinking it's the MAF? The MAF has been replaced once before (with an OEM part), about 2 years ago. Friend doesn't remember why. New OEM MAF is only $55 on Rockauto, just trying to get some input before I shotgun parts. She doesn't track her MPG, so she's not sure if there's been a decrease recently. Pending codes are P0106 and P1101. Historical is P0171. Historical doesn't go away even after clearing codes with Torque or disconnecting the battery, and the pending codes come back right away on the first start. Relevant live data captured at idle - everything is aces once it's above 2k. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 17:50
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It's screaming for more fuel. Check the fuel pressure and filter if existing. Check fuel injector seals and bench test the injectors if you can.
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Dec 26, 2019 18:09
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Pressure as reported by the PCM is 43 psi at idle, 59.6% at WOT near redline. Also, it runs fine except for at idle. It runs like a scalded ape once the turbo spools, and the fuel trim stays pretty much +/- 5% the moment you touch the gas. Even WOT @ redline, it doesn't seem to be starving. The really low IAT reading is what has me feeling MAF, it's between 45-50F when it's ~65 outside. I just checked it after driving a few miles and sitting parked, for about 20 minutes (so it should be good and heat soaked), and it's still at 50F.
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Dec 26, 2019 18:15
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DDddddddouble post. Just drove it back to friend's place. It had started idling high enough that it was doing ~15 mph pretty quickly after letting off the brakes, idling at ~1200 in gear (complete stop), ~1500 in park. No hissing, still no response to carb cleaner, but yeah.. gonna retract my initial guess on MAF and go with vacuum leak, but apparently not bad enough to cause drivability issues except at idle. It now only has a system lean code and MAF out of range code.  Shutting it off and restarting got the surging idle back (600-900), and it brought back the MAP out of range code too.I'll let her BF deal with it, he has access to a smoke machine. Neither of us are terribly confident in his diagnostic skills though, which is why I got first dibs on head scratching, and neither of us wants to drop $55 + shipping on a new MAF when that may not be it. The MAF has been replaced before when it had a nearly identical issue, about 2 years ago, and it's been running fine since then until a few weeks ago. I'm staying at her place for a couple of days while GF's mom is in town. She has errands to run, I'm exhausted from working all night, and I don't really trust Brokeback Outback to anybody else right now (more because the brakes are less than great, but also because of the bad LF axle and howling wheel bearing), so I handed her my AAA card (AAA Plus, so 100 miles included). I did watch the airflow rate reported by the MAF on the drive back, and it seemed pretty typical for a small engine while cruising (though it shot up to ~65 grams/sec when I hammered it; seems excessive for a 1.4, but it does have a turbo....), a bit on the low side (to me) while cruising (~4 grams/sec while doing 50 mph). I'm over my head on it, so off it goes to her BF and a smoke machine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 18:41
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2007 Toyota Tacoma, V6, 6-spd I took it in to have the clutch chirp dealt with, assuming the thrust bearing was on its way out. Before that, I’d adjusted the pushrod throw to spec, having read that it might be the issue. It wasn’t, so I took it in. Turned out to be just rust on the flywheel and thrust bearing, but given the 112K on the clutch, I opted to have the whole thing replaced. $1650 later, I pick it up and the starter is making a funny noise (detailed in my last posts ITT). Easy fix, free since it was the mechanic’s fault. So I drove around on the new clutch for a few days, then started driving from Colorado to Arkansas the other day. The last leg of the day’s drive was 246 miles nonstop at 75 mph, no shifting at all between interstate exits. That’s getting close to 1000 miles on the new clutch. Pulling off into our hotel in Hays, KS, the slave cylinder failed. Pedal to the floor, no return, coasted into a gas station, a little bit of hot clutch stink, some fluid on the underside of the truck. Next day, had it towed to a dealership because it’s the only thing open and I have to get home for Christmas. The original shop that did the clutch insisted it be towed to a Napa affiliate for them to warranty the parts and labor. Fine. New shop in Kansas calls me when they open on Dec 26 and says the slave failed, but the rest of the clutch is fine. I’m not clear if they’ve actually looked at the flywheel and disc, but the mechanic I talked to insisted it’s all fine except the slave. Somehow it got stuck open and in the process of being held open it bought the farm. Since the slave is on the outside of the transmission housing, it’s only $145 for parts and labor. They don’t see how the original shop is liable. Question: How likely is it the original shop is liable? I.e., how much of a fight should I put up for $145 for the repair, given that we also incurred the cost of the tow, an extra night in a hotel, and gas for the rescue that my father in law gave us by picking us up in Kansas and driving the rest of the way to Arkansas, a 14 hour round trip? And I still have to get back to Kansas to get my truck when the repair is done. There were zero problems from the hydraulic system before the clutch was replaced. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 18:50
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STR posted:DDddddddouble post. Start with the J-boot/any intake piping after the maf. That constellation of codes plus the changing symptoms sounds like it's got an intake air leak to me, but it still could maybe be vacuum. If that was sitting in front of me right now I'd start with an unlit propane torch and run it around the intake parts and vac lines before I even bothered pulling out the smoke machine.
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Dec 26, 2019 19:03
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Tried the unlit propane torch already, also hosed down most of the intake tract (including the cold side of the turbo piping) with carb cleaner while it was running. Did the same where the intake manifold meets the head, and around the injectors. No change. [sub][sub]admittedly the tank on the torch is pretty low, it'll light, but not much of a flame... it worked well enough to find vacuum leaks on the Avalon last time, and it was throwing an evap large leak code at the time). I should probably get a tank for it. But I remembered a few minutes ago... when I did spark plugs on it a couple of weeks ago, I was letting it idle while I was poking around under the hood trying to find the coolant leak. I bumped the dipstick and it almost stalled, then started with the surging idle. It was knocked just a tiny bit out of the tube. I did hear a slight hissing, but it was idling a lot worse when I did that. Now I'm wondering if the dipstick isn't all the way in....  IIRC it's also had one (singular) injector replaced at some point (... at a chain shop, instead of the dealer.. injectors are covered as part of the emissions system by GM, and it was still under emissions warranty  ). She has the full service history since it was new, I need to see if the invoice shows which injector it was. It did have a random misfire code pending before I did the plugs (no CEL, but those were the worst looking iridium plugs I've ever seen), but it hasn't come back since then.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 19:49
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STR posted:Tried the unlit propane torch already, also hosed down most of the intake tract (including the cold side of the turbo piping) with carb cleaner while it was running. Did the same where the intake manifold meets the head, and around the injectors. No change. Was it running like crap when you were doing that? Because the thing I've consistently seen about intake leaks that the idle change when you restarted it made me think of is that a lot of times these are very small leaks in the creases of boots on inside corners, etc and they get shaken on a restart or hitting bumps or whatever so the symptoms or severity change. You should try moving that crap around - especially any soft piping that is attached to to the body and motor (i.e. the ones the flex the most). But the dip stick thing sounds like the best place to start now based on that new info.
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Dec 26, 2019 19:56
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STR posted:2014 Chevy Cruze 1LT, 1.4 turbo w/auto, 80k miles. Ah I misread the post as having a worsening condition at speed. Injector seals still worth checking as that can create a leak right at the cylinder.
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Dec 26, 2019 20:04
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It was surging very slightly when I did it, then.... smoothed out and ran fine until I shut it off. Once we got in to drive back, it ran fine for about 2 miles (3 mile trip, but almost all 50 mph highway feeder road, so plenty of room to hammer on it up to the speed limit legally), then once on her street, it started idling high enough that it was fighting me a little coming to a stop. Good thing these crapcans have brakes you really don't expect in a budget car; when I drove it around the neighborhood after changing the plugs, I nearly ate the steering wheel a couple of times. Used to the Subaru's squishy brakes.. I checked all the plastic tubing in the intake, paying particular attention to the accordion stuff (only one hose - airbox to turbo, also contains the MAF). Wiggled everything I could related to the intake, turbo, and vacuum lines.. all clamps are gutntite. Nothing is brittle at all, the serpentine belt doesn't even show any cracking or glazing yet (though the tensioner is chirping). Basically, aside from dirt (and a weeping quick connect on a cooling system hose  ), it looks new under the hood. Nothing is brittle, hoses aren't hardening or anything.It's a 2014 model year purchased new in 2014, in Colorado; it's only been in TX for 2 years, so it hasn't really been exposed to Texas heat much. Chunjee posted:Ah I misread the post as having a worsening condition at speed. Injector seals still worth checking as that can create a leak right at the cylinder. It runs fine at speed, though when the idle is surging, it bogs down a bit off the line until the turbo spools (~2500ish?), then it scoots okay for what it is. When it's not surging, it doesn't bog, but either way, it's a dog off the line until the turbo spools up (as you'd expect from a 3200 pound car with a cute widdle 1.4L and a tiny little snail attached). I've driven two rental Cruzes before, and both of them drove exactly the same way off the line (except they boiled the tires as soon as they hit boost, since... by the hour rental car, almost bald tires, cold day, traction control off, holding it in 1st, and treating them like a rental car) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 20:07
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So you totally ruled out the IAT?
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Dec 26, 2019 20:48
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C-Bangin' it 
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2004 Volvo XC90 2.5T AWD 165k miles Steering pump whines quite a bit until things warm up. Or at least the whine is much worse when I turn the wheel, especially when not moving. I haven't popped the hood to confirm it is steering pump, but I don't think anything else would be effected by turning the wheel. I don't remember hearing it before a few days ago*. Ignore or pursue further? * haven't had this vehicle long so it's possible it's always done this and I just noticed but I don't think that is true. e: did some driving, it quiets down a lot maybe 5 minutes after engine is up to temp by the in-dash guage; however it still makes noise when turning sharply, just less taqueso fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 20:48
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Colostomy Bag posted:So you totally ruled out the IAT? The IAT is part of the MAF on this car. So... no. It's definitely giving some wonky readings, particularly in that the temps really aren't moving much at all - a degree or two here and there. It should be getting heat soaked when stopped at a light, definitely should be getting heat soaked when parked for ~15-20 minutes after being flogged, and should generally be at or above the outside temp. It's always below the outside temp - the highest I've seen today has been 50F, the lowest was 33F. It was 60 when I left work at 7am, it's pushing 70 now. But I don't know if it's Torque misinterpreting C as F (which would put it pretty drat high, at least closer to real-world underhood temps if you factor in heat soak - but only dropping 1-2 degrees once it's at highway speeds, when I'm used to seeing roughly 5-20F over ambient once moving at highway speeds on a hot day), or the car just hating my lovely OBD2 dongle (it disconnects every ~15 seconds, on my car it disconnects every few minutes). FWIW, she's home, I tried unplugging the MAF and taking it for a drive. It ran fine, just slow as balls and with the fan screaming. Boost stayed at 0. It was almost as slow as Brokeback Outback (I think the only reason it wasn't as slow is it has a 6 speed auto vs a 4 speed...). The surging idle did start again without the MAF, but not nearly as pronounced (couldn't really feel it, but noticed the tach twitching slightly, and could hear it with the door open). And the IAT was reporting 37 degrees (it's 68) AFTER plugging the MAF back in and resetting the ECU. So unless Torque is misinterpreting C as F, the MAF might be an issue, but it's not the main problem. With the IAT being off like that, the worst it's gonna do is run rich (since it may think the air coming in is a lot cooler than it really is). So yeah... I give up. Not my circus, not my monkey, definitely not my monkey flinging poo, absolutely not my monkey biting you, I don't know that monkey drinking his own piss in the corner, and beyond my abilities and skills to go further. I'd kill for a Tech2 clone, if only to get more data out of it to learn what the gently caress is going on, but I'm not gonna shotgun parts at it (especially with her limited budget) without being at least 95% sure. The MAF is cheap enough that I'm comfortable buying it on my own, on a gamble, but with it running a little oddly with it unplugged... no. It was pulling fuel very hard with the MAF unplugged (showing closed loop in torque, short term was pegged at -25%), then pouring fuel in (pegged at +35%) once reconnected and reset. I had crossposted this to the FB group; someone over there asked about the ECT sensor readings. It seems to be pretty accurate, fluctuates between 195-220 as reported by the PCM. IIRC these have a 221F thermostat from the factory, so the temps seem pretty inline with when the thermostat is opening and closing. Gonna let her know it needs to be smoked to go further, and I'm gonna try to find a decent indie mechanic for her (yo Austin goons... any suggestions?). tl;dr washing my hands of it, I'm in over my head without at least a smoke machine and access to a proper scan tool w/live data that speaks Tech2. She's a good friend, but I wouldn't go past this point even for my own mother. taqueso posted:2004 Volvo XC90 2.5T AWD 165k miles Check your power steering fluid. It's probably low. Either way, even if it's not low, the pump is probably just getting tired (if it wasn't before, it certainly got a bit more tired from being run low on fluid). If it is low, check all of the rubber lines involved in the PS system, and check the fluid a couple of times a month from now on. It might be seeping from the rack, might be seeping from the pump, who knows, but PS systems don't usually fail catastrophically (unless you use an A1 Cardone brand remanufactured pump or rack, anyway...). FWIW, my mother's car was diagnosed at the dealer with having a power steering leak... just out of warranty. It's a 2003 Toyota, purchased new in 2002, IIRC it had a 3 year/36k warranty. They never mentioned it when she went in for oil changes while under warranty, but quoted her something stupid like $5000 for a new steering rack at 38k miles. The car now has almost 190k; in the 18 years she's owned it, she's had to top it off half a dozen times (it only got low enough to make noise once, but it's been kinda noisy ever since.. still works fine). The same dealer sold her a timing belt job at 65k. The owner's manual suggests either 105k or 110k. Not exactly a fan of that dealer.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 21:19
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STR posted:Check your power steering fluid. It's probably low. Either way, even if it's not low, the pump is probably just getting tired (if it wasn't before, it certainly got a bit more tired from being run low on fluid). If it is low, check all of the rubber lines involved in the PS system, and check the fluid a couple of times a month from now on. It might be seeping from the rack, might be seeping from the pump, who knows, but PS systems don't usually fail catastrophically (unless you use an A1 Cardone brand remanufactured pump or rack, anyway...). It was low, not even touching the dip stick while warm. Is best practice to completely drain the old fluid if I have no idea of it's history?
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Dec 26, 2019 21:36
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taqueso posted:It was low, not even touching the dip stick while warm. Is best practice to completely drain the old fluid if I have no idea of it's history? If you've got a baster or something to suck out what you can from the reservoir do that. Then fill it up to the full mark. Let'er rip and drive a round a bit. You may need to go "lock to lock" on the steering a few times in the driveway to bleed any air out. Now check out the fluid again. If it's still totally nasty looking drain the reservoir, refill and repeat.
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Dec 26, 2019 21:38
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I couldn't find any leaks visually. The hose leading away from the pump looks like a different style than other stuff, looks pretty new and has nylon sleeving around it. So something involving steering might have gone down previously.  I'll be able to fill it up in a couple hours*.*assuming I can find compatible fluid in town 202 is $22/liter if I want to get it today, 11S is $27/liter Read a bunch of volvo forum posts, going to go with CHF11S. taqueso fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 21:44
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Question on a car noise!! I know, I know, I'll try and get a video or something. It's hard to operate a camera and drive 😂 Anyway, 2006 Mazda 3, silver. Making kind of a whooshing / growly sound that I thought was an intake leak or maybe exhaust leak, but now I think might be driveline. It happens at near or freeway speeds, so 4th or 5th gear, if I put the engine under load, giving it gas. If I push the clutch in and rev the engine to the same speed there is no sound. It also seems to change with road surface but this could just be masking the sound (the Mazda 3 is a very loud car on the freeway).
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Dec 27, 2019 06:53
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Charles posted:Question on a car noise!! I know, I know, I'll try and get a video or something. It's hard to operate a camera and drive 😂 If you clutch in at speed, does the noise go away?
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Dec 27, 2019 07:00
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Beach Bum posted:If you clutch in at speed, does the noise go away? yes
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Dec 27, 2019 07:01
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Charles posted:yes Check your transmission oil level and condition. There won't be a dipstick, you'll have to remove the fill plug and stick your finger in the case to get a "sample". Be sure you're parked on a level surface. If you can't reach any, you're low, and will need to top it off with whatever Mazda approved fluid you like. It should be right up there and perhaps even seep out a bit. STR will probably echo me in saying to check your inner CV joints for torn boots and radial play (perpendicular to the axle). (That's who I learned it from anyhow; outers have always failed me long before ingress inners) Whatever it is, it transmits drive torque between the clutch disc and the wheels, so that doesn't leave a whole lot. Does the noise change based on what gear you're in at a given speed? Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 08:14 on Dec 27, 2019 |
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Dec 27, 2019 07:51
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Beach Bum posted:Check your transmission oil level and condition. I've actually had the gear oil changed, CV joints wouldn't be shocking as I'm pretty hard on the car and they're original, 93k miles so not a lot but 14 years.
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Dec 27, 2019 08:00
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Beach Bum posted:Does the noise change based on what gear you're in at a given speed? I don't think so
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Dec 27, 2019 08:01
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Charles posted:I don't think so I'd wager that rules out the transmission, especially coupled with the fact you've changed the gear oil. Betting on axle joints then. Any sort of perceptible radial play is likely bad news.
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Dec 27, 2019 08:12
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Beach Bum posted:I'd wager that rules out the transmission, especially coupled with the fact you've changed the gear oil. It probably got started in February when I drove through a lot of snow and had a lot of wheel slippage. Put a lot of strain on the drivetrain. Oops.
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Dec 27, 2019 08:28
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Motronic posted:If you've got a baster or something to suck out what you can from the reservoir do that. Then fill it up to the full mark. Let'er rip and drive a round a bit. You may need to go "lock to lock" on the steering a few times in the driveway to bleed any air out. Yeah, fluid is probably brown when it should be something else...like pink. But like was mentioned earlier you need to do crank-to-crank to get it all out. The DIY way isn't fun. The turkey baster thing is best. The full flush method is to have a poo poo load of fluid, have a line to jug from the low pressure side while someone cranks the wheel and you are pouring tons of whatever while yelling at your partner. Basically depends on where that low pressure side hits the reservoir.
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Dec 27, 2019 16:58
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STR posted:Pressure as reported by the PCM is 43 psi at idle, 59.6% at WOT near redline. If the MAF is only $55, Yeah...I would go for it. But still sounds like a vacuum leak from somewhere.
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Dec 27, 2019 17:16
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Winter driving question: I live in Wisconsin and have done for ~8 years now, so I'm used to driving in/around snow & ice. That said, I've only driven Subarus in the winter, so I'm only experienced in driving with AWD. I'm considering getting a sedan that's RWD only; I'm hopeful that if I equip the car with snow tires it'll make up for the deficit in traction (if not provide for better steering/braking from the all-seasons my Subarus have had). Still, I am somewhat concerned with the possibility of getting stuck - I've once or twice gotten my Subarus high centered on a snow pile but been able to get them off OK - it's that sort of situation that's rolling around my noggin. Anyone here got thoughts/advice on this from a practicality standpoint?
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Dec 27, 2019 19:05
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The only RWD I've driven in snow are pickup trucks but with studded snow tires and some weight in the back it's fairly hard to get stuck. Also pretty fun to drive in the snow once you get a handle on how it slides. That said, I prefer AWD by far and haven't had a RWD vehicle in 20 years.
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Dec 27, 2019 19:27
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, fluid is probably brown when it should be something else...like pink. I saw some youtubes on how to do the flush, doesn't look too bad but it'll have to wait a bit. Filled it up and gave it three sessions of 20-ish lock-to-lock turns before it stopped foaming up. Made some sweet radial burnouts: 
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Dec 27, 2019 20:01
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Beach Bum posted:STR will probably echo me in saying to check your inner CV joints for torn boots and radial play (perpendicular to the axle). (That's who I learned it from anyhow; outers have always failed me long before ingress inners) Yeah, inners don't fail often, unless the boot gets damaged or you just get a lovely axle. In my car's case, someone had replaced the entire RF suspension with junkyard parts, and used the junkyard axle (probably because it was rusted into the hub). My car had damage to the bottom portion of the bumper on that corner, so I'm guessing it got curbed pretty hard. And I'm assuming the boot got torn because whoever pulled it didn't know about the roll pin that retains them on Subarus and kept yanking on it. That pin can gently caress right off too, at least the RF one. Fucker is buried above the exhaust, where the Harbor Freight punch set can't quiiiiite knock it all the way out (also a pain to get back in). Colostomy Bag posted:If the MAF is only $55, Yeah...I would go for it. DING DING DING! loving valve cover, her BF found it. My hearing is worse than I thought, he said it was hissing pretty good... I didn't hear it at all. And I didn't spray carb cleaner or wave the propane around the top of the valve cover, because I didn't expect it to develop a vacuum leak under the spark plug cover. New one is on the way. Surprisingly cheap, about $75 (I'm assuming she ordered aftermarket, since it's from Amazon, and well, only $75). I do think the MAF has issues if the temp I was getting is what the PCM is really getting, but that will just make it run a little richer, not cause surging. And I have no idea if the temp I was seeing was being interpreted correctly by Torque. I'd kill for easy access to a Tech2 clone (I have access to one at the DIY shop I use, but they're half an hour away). Still may need to use one, it's occasionally throwing a traction control disabled/service stabilitrak message. I'm 99% sure it's a dying wheel speed sensor (which means new wheel bearing time on GM), but without something that speaks GM, I have no easy way of finding out which one.The worst part is..now that she told me what her BF found, I remember watching a video on one of the major youtube mechanic channels about THIS. EXACT. ISSUE. I think the car they dealt with was even the same color. I thought it was South Main Auto, but I can't find it on their channel.. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Dec 27, 2019 |
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Dec 27, 2019 20:29
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sarcastx posted:Winter driving question: I drove a Mustang in Lake County IL for... 6 years? 7? with Blizzaks in the winter. Prior to that I had a Thunderbird for a year or so up here and a few years before that downstate with all-seasons. The Blizzaks were a game changer. I don't believe I ever got stuck in the Mustang but I did try to avoid the really deep stuff. That's more due to ride height than anything else. I see no reason why you can't live with a RWD car in a Wisconsin winter.
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Dec 27, 2019 20:31
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What's the unlit propane torch trick? How does it detect vaccuum leaks?
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Dec 27, 2019 21:45
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simplefish posted:What's the unlit propane torch trick? How does it detect vaccuum leaks? You use a propane torch with the valve open but no flame lit so you just have straight propane coming out the end, and wave the end of it near where you think a vacuum leak is. If there is a leak, the engine should suck the propane into the intake tract through the leak and you'll hear it rev up a bit. Also works with most other flammable fluids - carb cleaner, etc.
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Dec 27, 2019 22:06
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Awesome, thanks
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Dec 27, 2019 22:15
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sarcastx posted:Winter driving question: I had an E30 BMW (rwd) in MN and NY for 7 years with snow tires and the only times I had any issues were on black ice or really deep snow. I wouldn't worry about it.
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Dec 27, 2019 22:29
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This is going to be an obscure question but maybe someone in here knows. I'm trying to replace the passenger cooling servo on a 2003 Lexus GS430, it's the servo that controls the blend of hot and cold air. I actually did this job 8 or 9 years ago, but apparently I forgot whatever I learned back then. In order to get to the servo, I need to remove this white air box, but I have no idea how I removed it before. I already unscrewed one screw on the bottom, but I can't figure out where the other screws are. I think some people have taken it apart, and I tried and got it partway there, but I think I'm missing something. Any ideas? There are posts on the Lexus forums about it, but all the photos are gone from them so I can't tell what they were trying to show. 
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Dec 29, 2019 02:17
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