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I'm replacing the valve cover gasket on a 2003 toyota corolla and there's a couple spots where I'm supposed to put a dab of silicone sealant. I heard black was recommended because it is extra oil resistant, but I only have some VersaChem Red and Permatex Ultra Grey, and no functioning car to pick up something else. Would one of those be good enough substitute?
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Dec 29, 2019 19:53
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I'd put some Ultra Grey on and run with it.
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Dec 29, 2019 20:03
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'd put some Ultra Grey on and run with it. 
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Dec 29, 2019 20:05
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I keep a tube of Hondabond in the fridge specifically for such occasions.
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Dec 29, 2019 20:14
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1998 Ford Explorer XL, 4.0L V6 SOHC, automatic transmission, D4 axle code The front differential howls when I accelerate. I don't know much about cars, but I'm pretty sure this means the differential is being damaged. I don't think it's a lubrication problem. The front and rear differential oil and transfer case oil were changed 10,000 miles ago, and I haven't noticed any leaking. I'm guessing the diagnostic and repair is in the $1000 - $2000+ range. I don't think this vehicle is worth it, but I also don't want my front differential to explode at 50 mph. So I had an idea: I'll ask the mechanic to remove the shaft between the transfer case and the front differential. Is this even possible? Will this limit further damage to the differential? Is it safe to drive like this in normal paved street conditions? Does this car have a 2WD setting I'm unaware of? Will this damage the transmission or transfer case? Thank you
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Dec 29, 2019 21:09
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Might be. I currently have the driveshaft out of my CR-V because the u-joints are trashed. If you crawl under there and check it might be as simple as disconnecting a couple driveshaft flanges.
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Dec 30, 2019 00:26
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RON818 posted:1998 Ford Explorer XL, 4.0L V6 SOHC, automatic transmission, D4 axle code I've heard of people doing similar, it'll just be stuck in RWD. Something to watch out for though is some transfer case/diff designs use a seal around the shaft to hold the fluid in so obviously with no shaft those designs would leak all their oil. I had my rear diff in my Suburban go after whining for a while, it was just worn out and eventually the gears bound and shattered, don't recommend.
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Dec 30, 2019 00:56
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Speaking of whining noises, I thought maybe I should try posting this here too, as well as the Subaru thread:simplefish posted:Subaru 2004 (BP) Outback, 3.0 H6
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Dec 30, 2019 01:17
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Autoexec.bat posted:I've heard of people doing similar, it'll just be stuck in RWD. Uhhhh...not really. It may just not move at all. The 98s had some weird 4x4 (full time) and 4x4 "part time" which was not like an open center diff, it was some sort of "abs sees the back slipping send power to the front trough some means" as I recall. This system was laggy enough that people who are uset do driving RWD cars in the snow would have issues with it, because right as you counter steer the front would engage and send you off in the wrong direction. It was really a poo poo system. In any case, it's got either an open diff or something like this. With an open center diff and no front shaft you are going nowhere. With a system like this it could be anything from working fine to losing all forward momentum if the rear wheels lose traction. And if the front diff spinning is the issue you'd need to disconnect the front hubs, which it doesn't have as I recall. So that mean you need to pull half shafts. This isn't an 80s pickup truck. It's just not gonna be that straightforward. Motronic fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Dec 30, 2019 |
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Dec 30, 2019 01:59
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Ah my bad, I admit my knowledge on this kind of thing mostly predates the newer systems. I thought 98 was still old enough you could get away with it. Heck my truck is only 7 years older and doesn't have anything of the sort, doesn't even have 4 wheel ABS. Knowing that, yeah it's likely going to be easier to fix the diff issue at that point than try to bypass it. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Dec 30, 2019 |
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Dec 30, 2019 02:50
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I’m going to replace the rotors and pads on my 2013 Taurus SHO (non performance pack). Normally I dealer service the car and use OEM parts, but it seems some of the 3rd party parts might actually be as good or better quality. Is there a generally recommended aftermarket line? I have the 4 major auto part stores close to me. Eco boost forum seems real sweet on the Akebono ceramic pads. Advance carries them so I’m leaning towards Akebono proact ceramics and car quest platinum rotors. Autozone had a solid deal on their duralast gold parts. Basically a free rotor if I buy 2 and pads. I drive the poo poo out of the car, and it’s heavy at 4400+ pounds so oem or better performance is more important than price. Edit: less dust from the pads is preferable. I’m also flushing the brake system and putting in all new fluid. I haven’t worked on a car in over a decade but I’ll probably save 500 bucks doing this myself instead of the dealer. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Dec 30, 2019 |
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Dec 30, 2019 21:53
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skipdogg posted:I’m going to replace the rotors and pads on my 2013 Taurus SHO (non performance pack). Normally I dealer service the car and use OEM parts, but it seems some of the 3rd party parts might actually be as good or better quality. Is there a generally recommended aftermarket line? I have the 4 major auto part stores close to me. Granted I don't own a late model SHO but drive a car close to 5K and hammer on it. I wouldn't hesitate with the combination you picked with Akebono and what I'm assuming is a good rotor. When I do my fronts in the future going to go with Akebono pads if it matters. Assume you mean fronts?
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Dec 30, 2019 22:08
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C-Bangin' it 
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I was just going to do all 4 wheels. The backs are probably fine but I’ve got about 74K on the car now and it’s over 6 years old so I’m just being preventative at this point. I should go take the wheels off and see what I’m working with before I spend 250 on the rears unnecessarily. I’m planning on doing all the big 6 year maintenance on the car pretty soon. Tranny was done 15k ago, but brake fluid, coolant, all that I’m gonna change out.
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Dec 30, 2019 22:39
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skipdogg posted:I was just going to do all 4 wheels. The backs are probably fine but I’ve got about 74K on the car now and it’s over 6 years old so I’m just being preventative at this point. I should go take the wheels off and see what I’m working with before I spend 250 on the rears unnecessarily. 74k out of rear brakes is doing good.
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Dec 31, 2019 00:06
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New brake rotors are on the horizon for my ‘10 Acura TSX as the stock ones have been turned as much as they can be and I gotta get a flush on the lines anyway—but mainly the vibration and pulsating in when I brake and the kiddo’s car seat in the back is a clear reminder I shouldn’t drive on these brakes too much longer without at least new rotors. Is it worth investing in slotted and drilled rotors? Also, is it important to get a brake kit with pads and such specifically meant to go with the rotors, AKA can I replace the rotors only without too much issue (and probably do the pads too tbf)? My budget for the brakes and my lock actuators (another story I won’t tell unless asked for elaboration) is $1750, $800 of which I’m setting aside for the lock actuators because each one is ~$250 for the part plus labor, so my other question is, is $950 enough to get reasonably good rotors from a reputable aftermarket parts manufacturer?
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Dec 31, 2019 01:07
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life is killing me posted:New brake rotors are on the horizon for my ‘10 Acura TSX as the stock ones have been turned as much as they can be and I gotta get a flush on the lines anyway—but mainly the vibration and pulsating in when I brake and the kiddo’s car seat in the back is a clear reminder I shouldn’t drive on these brakes too much longer without at least new rotors. You don't need it for a street car. Also, slots will nearly quadruple your brake pad wear. When I was running slots on my dual-purpose street/autox car, I was hitting the backing plates on the pads in 5k-7k miles. Furthermore, you will have a hard time finding someone willing to turn slotted/drilled rotors. Good store brand blanks are just fine. You'll get better performance for your money on pads. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Dec 31, 2019 |
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Dec 31, 2019 01:16
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life is killing me posted:New brake rotors are on the horizon for my ‘10 Acura TSX as the stock ones have been turned as much as they can be and I gotta get a flush on the lines anyway—but mainly the vibration and pulsating in when I brake and the kiddo’s car seat in the back is a clear reminder I shouldn’t drive on these brakes too much longer without at least new rotors. Decent set of 4 corners in parts, a couple hundred. Don't get fleeced.
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Dec 31, 2019 01:56
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Beach Bum posted:You don't need it for a street car. Also, slots will nearly quadruple your brake pad wear. When I was running slots on my dual-purpose street/autox car, I was hitting the backing plates on the pads in 5k-7k miles. Thanks for this. Yeah, here I was thinking they’d be better overall slotted/drilled but I’m glad I asked because I literally did not even begin to think of those things you’ve mentioned. In a quick search I saw some rotors as low as $25 each, if I got $25 rotors are these inherently worse quality ones from which I should stay away? And how often do calipers need to be replaced? Colostomy Bag posted:Decent set of 4 corners in parts, a couple hundred. Don't get fleeced. Sorry to sound dumb, but by “4 corners” do you mean a set of four rotors? And yes I really don’t want to overpay or buy something I don’t need, so as I said in my reply to the other guy I’m glad I asked because I was really thinking slotted/drilled would be good to get. I had just told my wife that if I’m gonna replace the rotors I want to get something good, but if I can get great performance and less money upfront and down the road by simply buying plain rotors then I’ll totally just do that rather than spend extra on poo poo I don’t need that will cost me more money later on too.
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Dec 31, 2019 04:09
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life is killing me posted:Thanks for this. Yeah, here I was thinking they’d be better overall slotted/drilled but I’m glad I asked because I literally did not even begin to think of those things you’ve mentioned. life is killing me posted:And how often do calipers need to be replaced? Since you'll be removing the pads anyhow, I also recommend you replace them when you install the new rotors, unless you've got pads with like 500 miles on them and you really want to keep them (it's not worth it, replace them). I'd recommend rear and front for your base option, but if you want something a little nicer you could get the PowerStop versions, rear and front. Also for any future jobs make sure you buy pads that include all new mounting hardware so you minimize the chances of your pads binding up in the mounting bracket. Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 08:50 on Dec 31, 2019 |
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Dec 31, 2019 08:42
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I don’t have pads with only 500mi on them so I’m totally replacing them, would be stupid not to. My mech is going to do a brake check first because for all I know, it’s the pads causing the problem but I don’t know enough about brakes to tell for certain if pulsation is the rotors (I think it is, I think they are warped) or the pads but the rotors already had their final turn year before last so uh probably them. I’ll check out those brands. Thanks goons for the help
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Dec 31, 2019 14:54
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My 2013 Impreza needs a new transmission valve. Maybe transmission valve body. I didn't write it down, but the mechanic said it would be $2200. I took it in because the AT oil temp light came on while I was driving. I asked the mechanic two questions which he was hesitant to answer: 1. If I'm thinking of trading the car in, should I spend the $2200 to get it fixed first? Assuming I trade it in at a dealership where they do their own service, the repairs would cost them a lot less than they would cost me. Could I reasonably expect that the reduction to trade-in value (if I don't get it fixed) would be less than the total cost I would pay for the repairs? 2. Can I drive it a short distance to a dealership? A medium distance? It seemed to be shifting okay when I was driving it, but the oil temp light is terrifying and I don't want it to break down on the highway.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:28
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Racing Stripe posted:My 2013 Impreza needs a new transmission valve. Maybe transmission valve body. I didn't write it down, but the mechanic said it would be $2200. I took it in because the AT oil temp light came on while I was driving. I asked the mechanic two questions which he was hesitant to answer: Sounds like the transmission is fine other than the code? I'd throw an extra cooler on that and verify there is flow. Clear the code.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:37
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Chunjee posted:Sounds like the transmission is fine other than the code? I'd throw an extra cooler on that and verify there is flow. Clear the code. Yeah, maybe. The mechanic checked it and said that it needed a replacement transmission valve body, but wouldn't give me any more info than that. Wouldn't speculate on how driveable it is. "Throw and extra cooler on that and verify there is flow" is excellent advice, I'm sure, but it's beyond my understanding and ability. If I'm unable to do that, am I taking a risk of worse damage trying to drive it 30 or 40 miles?
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Dec 31, 2019 21:41
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2000 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport, 170k miles, 2.2L no turbo manual transmission, white, South Dakota, USA. Has the fake hood scoop, which is my most hated feature but some people like it 2003 WRX wheels Rusty as hell in the rear wheel wells(where they all seem to like to rust) needs a clutch very badly (been slipping for a couple years of daily driver) needs tires, has 1 mismatched and the other 3 are about worn out needs a window regulator battery has been rewired to be in the passenger wheel well and is sized for a pickup truck (though this could be reversed if the correct sized battery was purchased) rear differential is growling driver's door has some duct tape holding the switches in no muffler, it fell off a couple years ago -- needs at least everything from cat back since the pipe is rusty as hell CEL is on because rear O2 sensor is dead, I have a replacement but the cable and connector is all bodged together from a PO and I gave up on fixing it smoked in for years but has been ozone treated generally abused for years with minimal maintenance It has been really reliable despite trying to kill it wired for amplifier and doors sound treated but amp was stolen long ago The book on this is roughly $1000-3000, what do I do to try and sell it? I feel like I could get $500 for it maybe? I don't think any repairs would increase the value enough to do. Maybe the draw of Subaru and AWD is worth more than I think? I could try to sell it in pieces but the pieces don't seem to be worth a ton (I assume all the bits are pretty common). I guess its only 10-20 pieces at $20-50 each to hit $500. taqueso fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Dec 31, 2019 |
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Dec 31, 2019 21:41
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Racing Stripe posted:am I taking a risk of worse damage trying to drive it 30 or 40 miles? big enemy of AT fluid is heat. It sounds to me like the computer saw it getting too hot, threw the code and light. Since it's now cold I would imagine it's fine for a short hops but I'm no transmission expert. I would check the AT fluid level before driving anywhere, a little dipstick behind the engine on my Impreza. clear the code and pull over if the light pops back up. most cars have AT fluid cooling solutions (usually piggybacking off the radiator), so the transmission will have two small lines. One for fluid to go out, and the other for the cooled fluid to go back in. An extra cooler would go on either of them and just add some extra fins for more cooling. https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-679-Rapid-Cool-Transmission/dp/B000C3BBKS/ Wouldn't do anything if the fluid output-input isn't flowing. To check that you might need a bucket and some extra fluid. Chunjee fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Dec 31, 2019 |
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Dec 31, 2019 22:12
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taqueso posted:I don't think any repairs would increase the value enough to do. I'd list that for $2000 with all the problems and take the first in person offer no matter how low. Or take whatever Carmax will give you for it.
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Dec 31, 2019 22:24
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I think my last post got buried or was too drat long or both, so I’m reposting. 2097 Tacoma, V6, 6-spd I got a new clutch put in. Mechanic minorly fudged the starter alignment, fixed it, no issues. About 1000 miles later the slave cylinder failed about 400 miles from home. The shop that fixed it wouldn’t explicitly say it was the previous shop’s fault, but said “for some reason it got stuck engaged, overheated, failed.” Original shop won’t take responsibility, said it could be coincidence, but when they had it off the bell housing, it all looked fine so they reinstalled, no recommendation for a new one. The fix only cost $200, but was an outrageous inconvenience. Is it probable enough that the original shop hosed up the reinstallation of the slave cylinder that I should give them poo poo?
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Jan 1, 2020 01:21
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I think my last post got buried or was too drat long or both, so I’m reposting. For $200 bucks, I'd just eat it and move on. Getting the previous shop to admit any culpability is going to be enormously difficult and won't be worth it in the end. Sometimes discretion is the better part of valor.
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Jan 1, 2020 01:27
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Bought a new 2019 Suburban LS yesterday. Today, the two USB and one Aux connections inside the front centre console aren't working, so I'm extremely thrilled at needing to bring it back to the dealership already. The aux input was working earlier today. I can't find anything online for this model year. Anyone know which fuse it might be, or if this is a common problem?
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Jan 1, 2020 02:07
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Chunjee posted:big enemy of AT fluid is heat. It sounds to me like the computer saw it getting too hot, threw the code and light. Subarus use the at temp light as a general automatic transmission warning light, instead of mixing transmission codes in with the check engine light. It'll light up for a lot more than just hot fluid; a bad solenoid can light it up. Racing Stripe, was that a dealer or an indie mechanic? If it's just a solenoid, you don't usually need the whole valve body. just another posted:Bought a new 2019 Suburban LS yesterday. Today, the two USB and one Aux connections inside the front centre console aren't working, so I'm extremely thrilled at needing to bring it back to the dealership already. The aux input was working earlier today. There's no fuse for them; they're wired directly to the stereo. Sorry, back to the dealer.
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Jan 1, 2020 02:14
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STR posted:Subarus use the at temp light as a general automatic transmission warning light, instead of mixing transmission codes in with the check engine light. It'll light up for a lot more than just hot fluid; a bad solenoid can light it up. That was at a dealership. I've since found that my model/year (Impreza 2013, among others) is prone to transmission issues and Subaru extended the warranty to 100K miles. Mine is 104K, but I called Subaru and they said they'd talk to the dealership and see if they can work something out. The guy sounded like he was saying they'd pay for part of the fix, without actually making any promises. So I'm hoping.
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Jan 1, 2020 03:06
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Stupid q: Do CVTs have valve bodys?
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Jan 1, 2020 03:14
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Is there a way to find a simple, 6-pin, male/female connector on Rockauto? I found some random seemingly generic connectors, but nothing that I could see works for what I need. I want to fix something dumb (audio connector on a 2000 mustang), but don’t really want to spend much on it. I figure Rockauto is cheap and I’m ordering some unrelated stuff anyway, so if I can find a $3 connector, that would be perfect. Autozone wants ~$15 for a set, Amazon doesn’t have the same thing but does have other options. It’s ok if it’s less than 6 pin if I can make it add up to 6, and if it’s more than 6, that’s fine too.
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Jan 1, 2020 06:23
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The gauges on my C10 are hooked up using an ATX connector. Grabbed an extension, lopped it in half, connected everything where it needed to go via butt crimps.
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Jan 1, 2020 07:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:The gauges on my C10 are hooked up using an ATX connector. Grabbed an extension, lopped it in half, connected everything where it needed to go via butt crimps.
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Jan 1, 2020 07:34
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2009 corolla with rear disc brakes (2.4l engine). I'm looking at cockauto for some brake rotors. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2009,corolla,2.4l+l4,1442280,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896 In this case specifically the rears. I'm considering either the (coated) Wagner or Power stop rotors. I've currently got the Raybestos set on the back and I suspect thats the cause of my pulsing brake pedal so I want to try something different. And since you can hardly find a place to machine them anymore, I might as well just get new ones. The pads are being changed at the same time also. What are your opinions on those two brands? Should I give some consideration to the Bosch or Beck/Arnley rotors in the Daily Driver category? Are those ones worth the extra ~15-20 bucks per rotor?
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Jan 1, 2020 22:41
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I've thrown Power Stop rotor/pad sets in a few cars now and have been happy with them. I think the oldest has been in for 3-4 years now with no issue.
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Jan 1, 2020 22:56
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I have a 2007 Toyota Yaris 1.3l hatchback. Japanese import to New Zealand so its right hand drive. My problem is that my tail lights have stopped working. The headlights work, but the lights-on indicator on the dash doesn’t come on, and the beeper that tells me the lights are on when I remove the key also isn’t working. I have tried pulling and checking fuses in the interior fuse box, and I’ve replaced tail light bulbs (although the filaments seem intact). I’m having a hell of a time finding a manual that makes sense. Is there anything else I can try looking at myself? Is it a loose wire somewhere?
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Jan 1, 2020 23:03
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wesleywillis posted:2009 corolla with rear disc brakes (2.4l engine). Rotors, especially solid rotors, are just slugs of steel with little to differentiate expensive from cheap. I shop by cheapest coated I can find and have never been surprised... either good or bad. They just spin and get clamped on. Used everything from Centric to Bosch to Brembo to Wagner to even more no-name. I have had very good luck shopping at Amazon's Warehouse for "used" rotors. They are almost always brand new, just in banged-up packaging. I've had a couple that you could tell were put on studs, but never used. Prices for them are extremely cheap. I get the part numbers from Rock Auto, then search the part number on Amazon. Edit: For instance https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Brake...a-search&sr=8-1 They have one coated rotor in the warehouse for FIVE DOLLARS like new (which means new), and the second you'd have to buy new, so $25, so $30 for a pair of rotors shipped if you have Prime. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jan 1, 2020 |
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Jan 1, 2020 23:23
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EVERYWHERE 
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wesleywillis posted:2009 corolla with rear disc brakes (2.4l engine). PowerStop is Centric and Centric has always made good brake parts. That'd be my recommendations. Also, you don't need to get the full-coated rotors; the partial coating is the same drat coating everywhere including the vanes, only they machine off a bunch of the friction surface. These are the ones I like https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9154488&cc=1442280&jsn=25 Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Jan 1, 2020 |
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Jan 1, 2020 23:39
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