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MetaJew posted:I have found a few forum posts elsewhere talking about stapling down romex every four feet when running perpendicular to joists/trusses, but I'm really not sure what the accepted installation technique is for putting up some overhead-ish lights. Attics, unfinished/unconditioned ones, are pretty much the wild west. There's no requirement for GFCIs or to protect your NM cable, since there's not supposed to be anybody up there moving around. I'd would (and have) just tried to make it as least likely for the wire to get snagged on something or to get hit with a roofing nail. I have rafters, so perpendicular to those on the underside is safe from nails shot through the roof, and then I just try to get it close enough to the eaves that I wouldn't be likely to crawl there.
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Dec 31, 2019 19:59
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B-Nasty posted:Attics, unfinished/unconditioned ones, are pretty much the wild west. There's no requirement for GFCIs or to protect your NM cable, since there's not supposed to be anybody up there moving around. Yeah, my concern was any future roofing work that had to be done, or snagging on it as I walk through the attic. This seems fair. The romex I have laying in the attic for the can lights I installed are loose, but again I know where the lights are and, my insulation is so thin that you can see everything. I eventually want to get the insulation vacuumed out, stuff air sealed, and blow in new insulation, but that will have to wait. (Ideally, I'd have ethernet run through the house while the insulation is out, but that's probably a pipe dream.) Another house-related issue I've been trying to tackle while I'm on vacation: installing some pendant lights above my island/bar. I had thought it would look best to have the pendants centered over the higher bar counter, but I discovered that the contractors I hired to remove the wall and patch the drywall, used a long 2x4 in the attic to fasten the ceiling board to. And, the ceiling box/brackets I bought are not tall enough to straddle the 2x4. Can anyone offer some advice on either locating the pendant lights, or how to fasten the ceiling boxes? In the below photo: red lines denote the trusses in the attic; yellow lines are trying to draw a vertical line from where the ceiling boxes will be to the middle of the counter; orange is the 2x4 that the patched drywall is partially screwed to.      I have found posts on Houzz and elsewhere showing similar kitchen layouts where the pendant lights are installed over the lower counter surface instead of the bar. I wonder if this would be a better layout. Since I only have 8ft ceilings, I think that pendants over the bar might be a bit more distracting or in the way.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:13
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I would just notch a channel in that 2x4 with an oscillating multi-tool. It's not like the 2x4 is structural or holding much weight.
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Dec 31, 2019 21:34
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The thought had crossed my mind, but I hadn't thought to use an oscillating tool to cut it. Not a bad idea!
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Dec 31, 2019 21:39
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Is there anywhere that makes horizontal blinds with different colors on each side, or top and bottom in this case? I'd like to have wood on one side, and white on the other. I could buy some wood ones and paint them myself but that'd be alot of work and likely wouldn't turn out great.
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Jan 1, 2020 01:57
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We have white and brown blinds like that, from the catalog of an interior shop (Japan, sorry). You might have luck searching for business-oriented products.
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Jan 1, 2020 02:24
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This week in house- I am learning that paint is expensive. Literally every non-floor surface in my house needs paint. Maybe I could have bought a cheaper variety but the Sherwin-Williams paint I just picked up (on sale) was $44/gal. The enamel paint for all the trim is $66/gal. And the guy tells me I'll probably need two gallons per 10x10 room. Yikes. At least I'm saving a few pennies by buying the lovely ultra while ceiling paint from Home Depot for ~$17/gal which looks good enough and is also going on the tops of all the walls above the picture rail I'm putting in. Anyway I'm painting my bedroom this color and I hope I'm not making a terrible mistake: https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/sherwin-williams-2020-color-of-the-year-naval
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Jan 3, 2020 01:14
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Sirotan posted:Anyway I'm painting my bedroom this color and I hope I'm not making a terrible mistake: https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/sherwin-williams-2020-color-of-the-year-naval Our bedroom is maybe a hair lighter than that and it rules, do recommend. Also very happy with the Sherwin-Williams paint we used.
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Jan 3, 2020 01:20
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Sirotan posted:
I really like that color, thanks for bringing it up.
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Jan 3, 2020 01:25
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Sirotan posted:This week in house- I am learning that paint is expensive. Literally every non-floor surface in my house needs paint. Maybe I could have bought a cheaper variety but the Sherwin-Williams paint I just picked up (on sale) was $44/gal. The enamel paint for all the trim is $66/gal. And the guy tells me I'll probably need two gallons per 10x10 room. Yikes. At least I'm saving a few pennies by buying the lovely ultra while ceiling paint from Home Depot for ~$17/gal which looks good enough and is also going on the tops of all the walls above the picture rail I'm putting in. Holeeeyy poo poo. A gallon is about 3.75ltr, right? The good quality white Dulux paint I get is £5/ltr, or, what, $25/gal? Is that the cost for custom tinted? The deep red I got was £13/ltr which is closer I guess at $63/gal Sirotan posted:Anyway I'm painting my bedroom this color and I hope I'm not making a terrible mistake: https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/sherwin-williams-2020-color-of-the-year-naval Sounds about right. It was real popular for home offices and the odd bedroom a few years ago.
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Jan 3, 2020 01:26
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Sherwin Williams is really nice paint, but yeah it's expensive. All our interior paint finishes at work are speced with it and it's very nice to work with. We keep up with touch ups so you rarely need to repaint full walls.
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Jan 3, 2020 01:34
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Jaded Burnout posted:Holeeeyy poo poo. A gallon is about 3.75ltr, right? The good quality white Dulux paint I get is £5/ltr, or, what, $25/gal? All of the people I didn't listen to when they said I shouldn't redo my own floors told me Sherwin-Williams is the best, so I decided to follow their advice this time. Tbqh I didn't even price match other brands but based on paint that I know my mom has used in the past, the good stuff can get close to $100/gal. The hardest thing was just picking a color scheme. The Internet told me I should start by picking a "whole -house color scheme" which should be based on existing elements (except there are none or it will all be ripped out soon) and my favorite color. I spent a long time looking at color palettes, and came up with this:  Literally the only thing I have right now that I need to match is some bright red lacquered bedroom furniture. I've had it forever and while I don't really love it anymore it still works just fine and I don't have the cash to replace it at the moment. I'm a little worried about the bedroom having too much of a patriotic vibe with that dark blue, but worst case scenario I can repaint. I briefly thought about using the lighter pink for the bedroom walls but I just wasn't into it after painting a little test patch. The pinks may come in as accents-throw pillows or whatever. Dunno yet about the office or the hallways (maybe the lighter blue/gray) but the living room will be the bright green. Then the white on all the floor/door/window trim and picture rail. It's really hard to try to plan this stuff in advance, I mentioned I'm putting in a picture rail because I have a ton of artwork of all different shapes and sizes and colors and there's really no way to match that stuff unless my entire house is white. Which is boring as gently caress. I like bright colors. #yolo Edit: As an added bonus all the walls in the entire house have a lovely orange peel texture to it and the spots where I've had to patch are kind of obvious. I hate it but I'm not going to spend the next six weeks of my life sanding it down or skim coating it. It's "character". Sirotan fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jan 3, 2020 |
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Jan 3, 2020 01:36
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Sirotan posted:All of the people I didn't listen to when they said I shouldn't redo my own floors told me Sherwin-Williams is the best, so I decided to follow their advice this time. Tbqh I didn't even price match other brands but based on paint that I know my mom has used in the past, the good stuff can get close to $100/gal. Having just been through this, the only thing worse than paying $40 a gallon for paint is having to pay ~$25 a gallon twice because the first time didn't cover fully.
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Jan 3, 2020 01:46
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Buy the high quality brushes, roller handles, rollers, a big tray, and the cheapest liners that fit. Wash your surfaces before repainting. If the color change is dramatic, especially if you're going lighter, slap a coat of primer on there in the correct tone. Just accept that you're putting on 2 coats no matter how you cut it. Wrap your brushes or rollers tightly in a plastic bag for storage during lunch and even overnight for second coats and touch ups. I repainted the ceiling in my kids room this weekend and splurged on $33/gallon color changing paint and it was worth every penny. I also "touched up" some drill holes and similar in the same room. I foolishly bought a $16 quart (~0.9L) instead of a $3.50 sample so I got frisky with the corners where I noticed the paint seemed thin. This was one of the first rooms I painted in the new house and had to get it up fast. Well dumb me the second coat really covered the old color way better, so now the room didn't match in really obvious ways. Bought a $45 gallon, repainted the whole room. Care to guess how much paint I was left with in the end? If you guessed just over a quart, you would be correct!  4 trips to lowes and $80 later due to other misc I couldn't find to do a whole room for what should have been 1 trip, $3.50 in paint, and <1 sqft of patching.
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Jan 3, 2020 01:52
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Sirotan posted:All of the people I didn't listen to when they said I shouldn't redo my own floors told me Sherwin-Williams is the best, so I decided to follow their advice this time. Tbqh I didn't even price match other brands but based on paint that I know my mom has used in the past, the good stuff can get close to $100/gal. Yeah I'll take their word for it. Sherwin-Williams isn't a big name in this part of the world. Colour scheme looks nice. My approach is to go white everywhere except a few select rooms, and then use the white as a background for art and other colour sources.
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Jan 3, 2020 12:10
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We went with extremely light grey in all transitional areas / our main living room. Then we went with muted colors in rooms to give them their own personalities, however I like the rooms with pale colors way more than the ones with bold colors. There's just something that sits really right with me when you combine light grey walls, white trim, and a good wood floor. Whatever. EDIT: We also had great success with BEHR's Marquee line (their most expensive at Home Depot). Covered extremely well.
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Jan 3, 2020 14:01
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The Dave posted:EDIT: We also had great success with BEHR's Marquee line (their most expensive at Home Depot). Covered extremely well. Was going to mention that I'd put the top of the line Home Depot BEHR stuff as equal to SW. It is also cheaper that SW when both are on sale. The Project Farm guy did some tests that support that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4RPaoU47jo Once you get above the bargain brand paints, the quality of your brushes, rollers, prep, and technique matter far more than the paint quality. Good paint won't help a lovely job.
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Jan 3, 2020 14:13
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Sirotan posted:All of the people I didn't listen to when they said I shouldn't redo my own floors told me Sherwin-Williams is the best, so I decided to follow their advice this time. Tbqh I didn't even price match other brands but based on paint that I know my mom has used in the past, the good stuff can get close to $100/gal. Another thing about Sherwin Williams is that they give really big discounts to their commercial customers and definitely have retail/wholesale pricing and can be flexible with their pricing. If you hire a painter, they can buy the $65/gal stuff for $40. I was shocked at the sticker price on some fancy elastomeric masonry paint until I talked to their local sales rep who figured out I needed to repaint an entire building inside and out and gave me like a 40% discount off retail because I was gonna need 40 gallons of paint or whatever. It never hurts to ask-let them know you’re repainting the whole house and they might cut you a bit of a break, especially if you buy it all at once. Benjamin Moore paint is also very good and maybe cheaper. All the interior decorators here seem to prefer it for some reason.
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Jan 3, 2020 15:27
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Sirotan posted:All of the people I didn't listen to when they said I shouldn't redo my own floors told me Sherwin-Williams is the best, so I decided to follow their advice this time. Tbqh I didn't even price match other brands but based on paint that I know my mom has used in the past, the good stuff can get close to $100/gal. We had a bathroom in that electric lime color in our last house, I liked it, it made the very small room feel more open, but it was intense. I don't know if I could take it in anything larger than a small room.
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Jan 3, 2020 15:55
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B-Nasty posted:Was going to mention that I'd put the top of the line Home Depot BEHR stuff as equal to SW. It is also cheaper that SW when both are on sale. The Project Farm guy did some tests that support that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4RPaoU47jo Thanks, I will check this out. Haven't watched the video yet but checking HD pricing on the BEHR Marquee paint (this seems to be their top of the line), it is about $1 cheaper than what I ended up with at SW (I got the SuperPaint, not Emerald). SW has a 30% off coupon running to the end of the month on all their paint. Gunjin posted:We had a bathroom in that electric lime color in our last house, I liked it, it made the very small room feel more open, but it was intense. I don't know if I could take it in anything larger than a small room. I have painted the living rooms of my last couple of apartments a variation on that color. It is certainly bright but I love it. The lighter version of it is just a bit too pea soup for me: https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/color/find-and-explore-colors/paint-colors-by-family/SW6920-center-stage#/
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Jan 3, 2020 16:04
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Going to note in PaintChat for people in the US southwest to look at Dunn Edwards. Because they're regional they rarely get tested in big roundups, but the quality is as good or better as the ultra-premiums from SW or PPG, and you can get it in a no VOC formulation for ~$40/gal.
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Jan 3, 2020 16:45
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Sirotan posted:All of the people I didn't listen to when they said I shouldn't redo my own floors told me Sherwin-Williams is the best, so I decided to follow their advice this time. Tbqh I didn't even price match other brands but based on paint that I know my mom has used in the past, the good stuff can get close to $100/gal. If you're trying to plan a whole house color scheme, that palette likely has too many colors that are bold and non-neutral. First, make sure to add the color of the flooring, the color of the trim, and the color of the kitchen cabinets to the whole house palette. I don't really know which is which from that scheme. The green and the pinks seem quite bold - they could work if carefully added into the house, but having too much of it would be really off-putting to me. The general logical amount of non-neutral is about 30% of a house. A lot of people end up *too* neutral but you're probably on the other side.
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Jan 3, 2020 19:25
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ntan1 posted:If you're trying to plan a whole house color scheme, that palette likely has too many colors that are bold and non-neutral. This is a color scheme to help guide me in decisions regarding the whole house, not just the wall colors. As I said in that post, the trim is going to be white, and everything else is being ripped out within the next year or so (this includes kitchen and bathroom cabinets) so there's nothing existing to match to besides some bedroom furniture and the floors which, imho, go with anything. I like bold colors though so overall I disagree with this.
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Jan 3, 2020 22:31
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Demolishing my currently unused ensuite bathroom and putting in a new shower, vanity, etc. Where's the best place to buy glass showers in Canada? Everything im finding at home Depot etc seems to be 32" or 36" by 40"+ but I want something a bit wider at around 40"+x40"+. Looking for corner shower, agnostic on shape but want to be able to tile the back 2 walls. Bathrooms 8*8 ft roughly if anyone has solid ideas for an empty corner of the room which was once an unused linen cupboard
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Jan 4, 2020 03:33
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Finally got around to installing the ceiling boxes and cheapo pendant lights I picked up. Pretty happy with the results. Hopefully the pendant wires straighten out a bit. 
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Jan 4, 2020 09:43
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We have pendants similar in concept to that, and “a bit” is probably how much they’ll straighten out.
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Jan 4, 2020 15:59
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Will something like a hair dryer do any good?
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Jan 4, 2020 19:46
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Beats me, ours after a few months got mostly straight, and looks good enough to us. In hindsight a perfect “rod” would almost look out of place. Captain obvious here, but have you tried climbing a ladder and just manually unbending the worst curves?
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Jan 4, 2020 20:20
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Sirotan posted:Thanks, I will check this out. Haven't watched the video yet but checking HD pricing on the BEHR Marquee paint (this seems to be their top of the line), it is about $1 cheaper than what I ended up with at SW (I got the SuperPaint, not Emerald). SW has a 30% off coupon running to the end of the month on all their paint. Just as a note to others that might not know, Home Depot usually does sales (online rebate) on all their BEHR stuff on the typical Federal holidays (e.g. President's Day, Memorial Day, 4th, etc.) It's $10 off a gallon can or $40 off the larger size buckets. You can't go wrong with SW, but the BEHR (Marquee or Premium Plus) paint with rebate is a quality paint and a good deal.
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Jan 5, 2020 02:40
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I built some shutters Before:  After  
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Jan 5, 2020 03:41
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That looks all right!!! Can you make a leaf-man out of all those leaves????
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Jan 5, 2020 04:18
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I can make a goddam leaf army
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Jan 5, 2020 05:44
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Hey house goons - Recently bought a house and I'm hoping to utilize my unfinished attic for some light storage (wanna keep the basement free for beer drinking and working out). Right now, I have pull down stairs, 2x6 joists that are 16" apart and filled with loose insulation. The attic is mostly just ducting and the air handler, but there is a nice spot about 16' x 8'. Would there be any harm in installing a couple sheets of plywood up there? I'd only be storing light boxes of decorations, misc crap, etc. The attic would not be converted in the future for actual living.
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Jan 5, 2020 21:47
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marsisol posted:Hey house goons - Recently bought a house and I'm hoping to utilize my unfinished attic for some light storage (wanna keep the basement free for beer drinking and working out). Right now, I have pull down stairs, 2x6 joists that are 16" apart and filled with loose insulation. The attic is mostly just ducting and the air handler, but there is a nice spot about 16' x 8'. Would there be any harm in installing a couple sheets of plywood up there? I'd only be storing light boxes of decorations, misc crap, etc. The attic would not be converted in the future for actual living. Sounds fine. Your local DIY store likely sells packs of tongue & groove boards designed for that purpose, which might be easier to work with than actual plywood sheets..
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Jan 5, 2020 22:41
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My house is 991 square feet. I feel like whenever I go to sell, I'm going to get hosed by that missing 9 square feet as people set their minimum search parameters at 1000. What's the easiest way to add a small amount of square footage to my home?
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Jan 5, 2020 23:07
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Lie and have the MLS listing say 1000.
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Jan 5, 2020 23:09
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From what I’ve seen on the buy side, most sellers just lie on Zillow or whatever and the appraiser catches it later
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Jan 5, 2020 23:10
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surf rock posted:My house is 991 square feet. I feel like whenever I go to sell, I'm going to get hosed by that missing 9 square feet as people set their minimum search parameters at 1000. What's the easiest way to add a small amount of square footage to my home? Provide a floorplan and build a huge deck. People will be interested.
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Jan 5, 2020 23:15
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peanut posted:Provide a floorplan and build a huge deck. People will be interested. I really wish I had room for a deck, but I'm in a subdivision and really hemmed in yard-wise. That's on my wishlist for house #2, though. "Just lie" is probably good, realistic advice, but I don't think I want to do that. I also dunno if I'm just being dumb for worrying about this in the first place.
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Jan 5, 2020 23:24
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surf rock posted:I really wish I had room for a deck, but I'm in a subdivision and really hemmed in yard-wise. That's on my wishlist for house #2, though. At least in my market, people looking for a 1000 square foot house are not setting their search with that as the minimum, and someone looking for a 1600+ sq foot house are also not searching starting at 1000 sq. ft. and there is no way you would sell your house to the latter. I think you're probably worrying about something that's not a thing. "Just lie" doesn't really work in most places, since this is all public information at the assessor's office and the third party sites are pulling it.
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Jan 5, 2020 23:32
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