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JEEVES420 posted:Got my Ender 3 pro and have been using a roll of ABS I got a year ago. Benchies came out alright and I printed some cases and other things while playing with the settings that all came out ok. There was some minor warping from lifting off the bed and layer separation in a few prints but nothing some CA glue didn't fix. TeachingTech did a good video about printing ABS without an enclosure. Seems that basically you can’t get amazing results without the enclosure. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UawxywHptMU
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Jan 2, 2020 03:18
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If you’re improvising an enclosure/the existing enclosure has no temperature control, you ought to be able to add your own dedicated small heater-blower w thermostat control for, like, ~$20 shipped from aliexpress or similar. Look for “incubator heaters”, the ubiquitous cheap fan type provides iirc 100W of hot air on demand, with the blower also helping to mix the air in the enclosure and prevent stratifying, and they usually come in both 12VDC and 110/220VAC to suit your setup. Just make sure the thermostat has the range you need, the incubator ones are intended for much lower operating temperatures than a printer enclosure so i have no idea if you might need to opt for a more general-purpose thermostat component. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Jan 2, 2020 |
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Jan 2, 2020 03:25
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Ambrose Burnside posted:If you’re improvising an enclosure/the existing enclosure has no temperature control, you ought to be able to add your own dedicated small heater-blower w thermostat control for, like, ~$20 shipped from aliexpress or similar. Look for “incubator heaters” or similar, the ubiquitous cheap fan type provides iirc 100W of hot air on demand, with a fan to periodically mix the air in the enclosure, and they usually come in both 12VDC and 110/220VAC to suit your setup. I used a Wanhao i3 with a garbage bag suspended above it to print all 3kg of ABS parts to build my Voron2. Even the little wanhao DC bed provided enough heat to keep the bag-enclosure around 60c. You don’t need to add another sketchy aliexpress heat source. Just preheat the bed a little.
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Jan 2, 2020 03:32
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Prusa suggests a draft shield for using their ASA with their printers. Option depends on the slicer. Should help with ABS, too.
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Jan 2, 2020 03:37
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How about a benchy?  Finally got my BLV Cube CoreXY printing. That, not including printing parts, was at least a good 40+ hours work to put together. Still got issues with the bed under-reporting temps so much that it wont heat up (not increasing temps fast enough), but at least I can print PLA. Meanwell PSU is the loudest bit. Since the bed that comes with the kit is kinda crap, I probably will replace it with a 6 or 8mm alu plate + AC keenovo pad. That should allow me to scale down the PSU as well. Very happy with print quality. Only thing calibrated is the hotend PIDs, so there's more to come, once I get the belts/rails/extruder tweaked.
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Jan 2, 2020 06:06
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Reminder that Mcmaster Carr has 3d models of pretty much everything they sell and you should under no circumstances use them for anything other than measurement confirmation and reference. you wouldn't steal a car Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 07:34 on Jan 3, 2020 |
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Jan 3, 2020 06:48
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5193A3 For $20.43, I would definitely download a handle.
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Jan 3, 2020 09:26
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I'd download a car. Wait. I downloaded a car.
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Jan 3, 2020 17:31
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mekilljoydammit posted:I'd download a car.  Finally bought a controller for my OpenRC F1, will have to actually get a servo and motor and driver and battery.
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Jan 3, 2020 19:26
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Rexxed posted:
I need to re-print my steering coupler and then do the tires. I have the TPU but that bit scares me
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Jan 3, 2020 20:05
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Hypnolobster posted:Reminder that Mcmaster Carr has 3d models of pretty much everything they sell and you should under no circumstances use them for anything other than measurement confirmation and reference. Why even give us that warning? Surely all in this world are trustworthy and would never do such a thing. I know I would.... not. Would not. Yeah.
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Jan 3, 2020 20:14
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AlexDeGruven posted:I need to re-print my steering coupler and then do the tires. I have the TPU but that bit scares me Mine went surprisingly well but I retrofitted my maker select with a tighter tolerance extruder plate to try and prevent the ninjaflex from getting out. I haven't driven on them but I made the sidewalls (top/bottom) a little thicker and there's a low amount of infill. They seem nice but may wear quickly. I'm tempted to print a Truggy and print molds for silicone instead of printing tires directly. https://i.imgur.com/miZfPio.mp4
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Jan 3, 2020 20:25
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As a guy who does r/c cars .. in a moderately serious way.. OpenF1 is terrible. A guy brought an open F1 car to the r/c track last year. It made.. maybe ten laps before it kitted itself. Not counting the other crap it dealt with. The lack of a rear pod is a big issue. .............. that said, I will print one.
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Jan 3, 2020 21:24
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openf2 here we come
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Jan 3, 2020 21:46
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Nerobro posted:As a guy who does r/c cars .. in a moderately serious way.. My last RC car was a GI Joe Crossfire in the late 80s so I'm probably going to make this thing go slow with a spare crappy motor as a proof of concept kind of thing. I suspect to get real RC car reliability you'd want something besides fasteners screwed into PLA. It's neat looking, though.
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Jan 3, 2020 21:47
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I wish there were a good source of model trains I could print.
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Jan 3, 2020 21:50
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Martytoof posted:I wish there were a good source of model trains I could print. Did you see the trains Prusa printed out? There's links to the models in the article: https://blog.prusaprinters.org/3d-printed-railway-models-part-ii-trains-and-buildings/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXlU1vjWRxA
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Jan 3, 2020 21:57
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Rexxed posted:
I have all Truggy parts done and a lot of things assembled. I still need the control stuff and springs. Considering the hours I spend designing Torsen front and rear diffs, I'm taking way too long to actually finalize the assembly and test them for real.
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Jan 3, 2020 22:03
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Rexxed posted:Did you see the trains Prusa printed out? There's links to the models in the article: For sure, that’s actually what got me thinking about SLA in the first place. I think my only complaint is that the variety seems fairly small. I’m really into collecting model trains from Japan, for example, and there’s very little to be had online. I mean clearly I could be the change I want to see and start modelling things myself, but I don’t really have the time to learn Fusion to the depth that I’d need. Mainly I just want to stop paying a lot of money for model trains and print some for “free”. Now if you’ll pardon me I’m going to buy another $80 litre of resin 
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Jan 3, 2020 22:17
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Martytoof posted:For sure, that’s actually what got me thinking about SLA in the first place. I think my only complaint is that the variety seems fairly small. I’m really into collecting model trains from Japan, for example, and there’s very little to be had online. You might get lucky and find something you want in grabcad, then it's mostly a case of scale and supports I guess?
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Jan 3, 2020 22:26
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Rexxed posted:My last RC car was a GI Joe Crossfire in the late 80s so I'm probably going to make this thing go slow with a spare crappy motor as a proof of concept kind of thing. I suspect to get real RC car reliability you'd want something besides fasteners screwed into PLA. It's neat looking, though. According to CNC kitchen, screws straight into PLA is ~almost as good~ as the best press in fasteners. poo poo. most of the screw holes on tamiya cars are screws directly into ABS, Nylon, and Polycarbonate (depending on the color of the plastic..) My biggest problem with OpenF1, is the impression it can give about what R/C can be. It's not a deep problem. :-) Just like.. annoying for someone who wants to help his primary hobby. I should go dive into that thing again. I wonder if a real hard-case battery will even fit it. I know I have all the parts to build it out. Heck, I even hvae TPU.
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Jan 3, 2020 23:12
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Ender 3 Pro trip report: About an hour to put it together, didn't even bother to run a test print, and just jumped in to making the ring-style fan duct adapter. That printed absolutely perfectly and I'm running some filament guide parts now. This thing is already 200% better than any of my TronXY machines have ever been. Unless it unceremoniously burns my house down in the next couple of hours, I'm calling it a non-disappointing and worthwhile purchase. I only wish I'd remembered to buy a set of the stiffer bed springs at the same time, but those will be here Monday. The only thing I'm not 100% on board with is the magnetic Buildtak-ish print surface, and I may still end up getting a piece of glass for it, but I'll give it a chance. It's probably fine, it's just new to me and I fear change.
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Jan 4, 2020 02:36
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I’ve learned the TronXY machines are terrible for whatever trash customization of firmware they’re using. All insane Gcode, boards are ARM but don’t support marlin, etc.
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Jan 4, 2020 03:51
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Mine are older machines with Melzi boards, minus one X3 that I put an MKS Sbase into. Those all ran vanilla Marlin and Smoothieware respectively. I originally bought them all because I do like to tinker a lot, and I had no problem modifying and replacing stuff, but after a while it was pretty much vanishing returns with no quality improvement. They've always been adequate, but this little Ender is already making noticeably higher quality prints. It'll be nice to run off some TV and movie prop stuff that doesn't need 11 hours of sanding before it's ready for paint.
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Jan 4, 2020 04:07
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Two months of running three printers full time into it and I'm like 75% done on printing giant snow tank parts. They are ugly but dimensionally accurate and strong as gently caress: Did you ever complete this? Is the 1X still running. Thinking of building the 1X.
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Jan 4, 2020 04:11
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Pulled the trigger last night on a Sidewinder X1. Should get it in a week or so! 
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Jan 4, 2020 04:44
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Acid Reflux posted:Ender 3 Pro trip report: About an hour to put it together, didn't even bother to run a test print, and just jumped in to making the ring-style fan duct adapter. That printed absolutely perfectly and I'm running some filament guide parts now. This thing is already 200% better than any of my TronXY machines have ever been. Unless it unceremoniously burns my house down in the next couple of hours, I'm calling it a non-disappointing and worthwhile purchase. I only wish I'd remembered to buy a set of the stiffer bed springs at the same time, but those will be here Monday. If you're into other new things, the Creality branded glass bed with the built in who knows what it is surface on it is incredibly good. e:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYFYX8D/ Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jan 4, 2020 06:44
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Hypnolobster posted:If you're into other new things, the Creality branded glass bed with the built in who knows what it is surface on it is incredibly good. I hadn't run across that one, thank you for the tip! I'm actually a little surprised by this thing it came with though, it seems to work really well. I was worried that it would be hard to keep flat but the magnet sheet is much more powerful than I imagined it would be. The material itself seems to hold and release PLA as well as any other Buildtak-y stuff I've used before. Need to pick up a new roll of PETG soon to see if I can destroy the surface that way.
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Jan 4, 2020 11:43
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I'm about to dive in to 3d printing but wanted to sanity check first. It seems like the Photon or Mars are the go to resin printers for mini printing. Someone I know has a filament printer that requires it's own proprietary slicer and DRM chipped filament. I don't think you can really drm resin, but those are the biggest traps I want to avoid. The Photon is on sale right now, but I'd def pay a premium elsewhere if anycubic pulled that.
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Jan 4, 2020 14:09
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I ordered a 1/4” ATP-5 tooling plate for my sidewinder because I’m sick of the trash bed on it screwing up my first layer no matter what. So bad that BL touch won’t correct for it.
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Jan 4, 2020 14:36
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Serenade posted:I'm about to dive in to 3d printing but wanted to sanity check first. It seems like the Photon or Mars are the go to resin printers for mini printing. None of the popular consumer resin printers have any kind of DRM garbage, so you're free to use any compatible resin that's out there.  The Photon and Mars are functionally very similar units overall, but it's apparently much easier to level the build plate and get to printing right away with the Mars. I say this as a Photon owner. I don't regret buying mine at all, and it prints wonderfully - in fact it's running a whole build plate full of D&D minis for a friend right now - but it was still my second choice. There were just no Mars...es... in stock anywhere when I was ready to throw cash at someone.
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Jan 4, 2020 14:40
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And the photon S supposedly makes the photon more mars-like, although it's unclear if people think it's worth the price difference
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Jan 4, 2020 15:28
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mAlfunkti0n posted:I ordered a 1/4” ATP-5 tooling plate for my sidewinder because I’m sick of the trash bed on it screwing up my first layer no matter what. So bad that BL touch won’t correct for it. What version is your Sidewinder?
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Jan 4, 2020 16:04
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Here4DaGangBang posted:What version is your Sidewinder? V4 I still like it. Just dislike the bed.
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Jan 4, 2020 16:08
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Acid Reflux posted:Ender 3 Pro trip report: About an hour to put it together, didn't even bother to run a test print, and just jumped in to making the ring-style fan duct adapter. That printed absolutely perfectly and I'm running some filament guide parts now. This thing is already 200% better than any of my TronXY machines have ever been. Unless it unceremoniously burns my house down in the next couple of hours, I'm calling it a non-disappointing and worthwhile purchase. I only wish I'd remembered to buy a set of the stiffer bed springs at the same time, but those will be here Monday. I bought an Ender 5, and I hated their build plate too. I bought a spring steel plate and ezmat from th3d, and I love em. It cost me like $20, it's more durable, and prints pop right off of it.
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Jan 4, 2020 16:23
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Acid Reflux posted:None of the popular consumer resin printers have any kind of DRM garbage, so you're free to use any compatible resin that's out there. armorer posted:And the photon S supposedly makes the photon more mars-like, although it's unclear if people think it's worth the price difference If that's the case, shopping around a bit more there's a Mars bundle at a similar price point than the Photon that's not though amazon. Even ignoring the addons, its only like a 10 bucks difference
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Jan 4, 2020 16:33
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Acid Reflux posted:I hadn't run across that one, thank you for the tip! I'm actually a little surprised by this thing it came with though, it seems to work really well. I was worried that it would be hard to keep flat but the magnet sheet is much more powerful than I imagined it would be. The material itself seems to hold and release PLA as well as any other Buildtak-y stuff I've used before. Need to pick up a new roll of PETG soon to see if I can destroy the surface that way. Mine worked for 6 months (the magnetic bed) but finally warped enough to need replaced. I had bought the glass bed when I got the printer, but didnt need it until I did. Now tell me more about the enhanced bed springs, and by that I mean post a link.
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Jan 4, 2020 17:33
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Resin, so far, is basically like filament. What I mean by that is there is really cheap poo poo that will just be weird and a pain to work with, and most of the general stuff works fine. Everything is going to need some adjustments in the slicer to get the best effects, but that's about it. I use elegoo cause it's basically the cheapest 90% of the time, plus it's an elegoo Mars printer. I'd use anycubic if some went on sale and I needed it. Regardless of that I fully expect to find a poo poo brand that just sucks and is horrible to use one day. Monoprices reviews weren't looking too good for a while. There's some incredibly expensive resins out there but they are either unique uses or some brand of what I assume to be industrial resin for a printer of the same name.
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Jan 4, 2020 17:40
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Here4DaGangBang posted:What version is your Sidewinder? Update to the bed thing. I have an ATP-5 aluminum tooling plate on the way .... however .... if yours is warped, just go to lowes and have them cut you a mirror or two (12.25x12.25 roughly) and use some thermal pad from amazon and whalla, darn near perfect bed. Amazing how flat this is now, betting I can dial it in further.
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Jan 4, 2020 18:57
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How large is that tool plate you ordered anyway? If it's a bed flinger, the weight at 1/4" may become a considerable influence. I have a 12" square plate at 1/3", and that thing is relatively heavy, especially considering it's aluminium.
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Jan 4, 2020 22:31
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