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Kasumeat posted:Ah okay, it sounded like you meant the starting handhold, not that one. I tried that a few times. The problem with that beta is that as you said, you have to turn your body into the wall. That makes the reach not doable. You can see how extended I am when my body is farther over to the right trying to make the reach. Not sure what you mean. Turning your right hip into the wall with your left foot flagged should allow your right hand to reach higher. The reason you have to extend so far with the heel hook is that it’s pulling your center of gravity to the left, away from the hold you’re trying to reach. I agree that using the lower right foot seems like the right beta, and it’s hard to tell but it looks like you should be able to reach that next hold without cutting your feet. You look close on the heel hook beta and trickery like that is often a good way to make up for lack of strength. In this instance though I’d be cautious of trying that heel hook beta too many times, ymmv but doing that little extra hip thrust to reach the hold can be stressful on your leg/knee especially if you’re old and dusty like me. 2nd problem — I agree about trying to keep that left foot on, but not sure toe rotation is the answer. Depends on the nuances of the foothold, but generally you can get the most purchase with your toe straight on and pressing down really loving hard. Like don’t just put your foot there, really try to channel the feeling of exerting so much force through your toe that you’ll break the hold off the wall. Depending on how slopey the foot is, you can also drop your heel below your toes to get more rubber and friction. That can make moving up more delicate though. But anyway rather than rotating the toe, think about rotating the hips. The more you can open up that left hip, the more your CoG will naturally move left and up.
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Dec 24, 2019 19:34
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Kasumeat posted:I usually boulder on weekday afternoons so the gym isn't busy, but I do always ask for help if I see somebody send something that I can't. Second problem: can you get your right foot on the hold on the volume to stabilize yourself instead of going dynamically off your left foot?
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Dec 25, 2019 04:46
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Kasumeat posted:
I watched this before reading the rest of your post and have the same read as you. It doesn't look like you trust your left foot on that, and your hips aren't making it far enough so that your center of gravity can be over your foot - that can help you stabilize so the next move isn't as desperate. Can you put your foot straight on and focus on really shifting your weight over to the left? It also doesn't look like you're fully engaging your shoulders - it's a weird thing to do in a wide stance pinch like that but it helps a ton with stability. Things that help me on moves like that: - Experimenting with how aggressively to flag my right leg - Stay as low as possible when moving to the side, and then go upward so it's two separate motions. I think of it like being an arcade crane machine that has to move on the two axes separately. - Cimb up to the finish position of this move and work backwards from there to visualize how to get into that position
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Dec 25, 2019 05:23
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Ugh. So I took 2 weeks off to let my shoulder rest, then did some light top rope on Saturday. 4, maybe 5 climbs? Shoulder felt just fine but then it started to feel a little sore in the evening like it was prior to my break and has continued to feel sore  Not as bad as it was, but clearly something's still off.Haven't had the chance to talk to a doctor but wtf I just want to be able to climb again drat it.
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Dec 30, 2019 16:38
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Over generalization, but lots of soft tissue injuries in climbing need active rehab of the affected tissue and/or associated stabilizers. Ymmv based on specific injury, but complete rest is often insufficient for healing
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Dec 30, 2019 19:21
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Shoulder injuries can be pretty complex. Seeing a doctor is a good idea. Also, if you're a side sleeper, make sure you don't sleep with your head on your shoulder.
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Dec 30, 2019 19:28
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I meant to see a doctor, I've just been taking too much time off from work lately I do sleep on my side, but I've been making sure to sleep on the other side the last 2 weeks.
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Dec 30, 2019 19:33
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Sab669 posted:I meant to see a doctor, I've just been taking too much time off from work lately Were you at Dogpatch today by chance? Thought I saw someone familiar looking and later realized it was from the videos you post.
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Jan 5, 2020 22:09
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Never heard of such a destination
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Jan 5, 2020 23:57
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Sab669 posted:Never heard of such a destination Gym in SF
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Jan 6, 2020 00:21
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Sab669 posted:Never heard of such a destination Extremely glad I did not ask the stranger if they have stairs in their house
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Jan 6, 2020 02:02
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Papercut posted:Gym in SF Ah, I am on the opposite side of the country  I did go to the gym again today, except just doing No Hands on V0's and V1's. I didn't realize how badly I missed climbing until I walked in to the gym. Finally seeing a doctor this week for the shoulder.
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Jan 6, 2020 02:13
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Went to Mt. Lemmon this weekend. Me on area classic Steve's Arete:  My climbing partner contemplating the terrible life choices that have led to him standing in a foot of snow at the base of Planet Eater, taken about 6 hours before we had to be rescued off the mountain:  A postmortem of how my friends and I ended up as the first rescue of the year off Mt. Lemmon on Saturday: First, some early warning signs that we shouldn’t have tried to climb Planet Eater. About 1000 feet of elevation below where we were planning to climb is when we first started seeing snow on the side of the road, although none of it was sticking to the rocks so we continued on. There was a pretty good pile of snow at the pull out for the climbing area. At 12:30 we were the only car parked there, even though there were cars at every other climbing area pull out further down the mountain in snow free areas. We also had 2 beginners with us who weren’t planning on climbing but just hiking around the area while my partner and I did Planet Eater. It was relatively warm, maybe 55-60 degrees, and there was no snow on the initial approach trail. We lost the trail pretty much immediately and started bushwacking up a scree/brush slope more or less in the direction of the crag. This was pretty slow going and we kept trying to find the trail, but would basically end up on animal trails that would dead end after 50-100 feet. Eventually we crested a ridge and could see what we correctly identified as the top of the crag we were headed for, but the way down was pretty snowy:  Since the crag was visible(it’s the rock patch you can see between the trees in the picture) and it was downhill we decided to continue on and bushwacked our way through the snow for about an hour to the base of the crag. At this point it’s close to 3pm and everyone’s socks are completely soaked, it’s still not all that cold as you can see my friend doesn’t even have his jacket on, but standing in the shade/snow is still pretty chilly. We figure it took us about 2 hours on the approach, but since the guide says the approach is 20 minutes, we would be able to find the actual trail using the climb as a reference point and make it back to the car in 45 minutes to an hour, so we decided to give the climb a shot. The start of Planet Eater is a granite friction slab which we have to do in really wet shoes from the snow, but after that I’d say the first pitch is one of my favorite 11s I’ve ever done. I lead the second pitch which is maybe a 30-40 foot traverse, and it’s probably the most harrowing lead I’ve ever done. The final mantle to the anchors had some snow on it and it’s basically just friction/smearing onto the ledge with a huge pendulum into some slab below you if you gently caress it up, anyway I didn’t gently caress it up and my friend starts up pitch 3, but as this is his first time doing multi-pitch and I don’t have a ton of experience we’re going pretty slow with the change overs and rope management. He punts trying to clip the 3rd bolt like 3 times and I make the call to bail so we don’t have to go home in the dark. We get to the ground at about 4:45, plenty of time we think to make it back to the car. This is where things start to go bad. The other two people are pretty grumpy/cold and not very excited about the snowy and rocky trail we find ourselves traversing along the face of the crag, but we eventually make it out the other end, as we’d approached it from the wrong side. At this point the trail is supposed to turn and I thought we would be able to follow a gully around the hill we’d climbed over on the approach, but it turns out I was wrong and we had to go back up to the top of the ridge and then descend back to the car. I don’t have a picture, but imagine a mostly featureless hill covered in snow at about a 30 degree angle. Maybe a blue/black ski slope. None of us wanted to go back along the cliff to the hill we’d originally descended as we were pretty sure we were around the trail, it’s just invisible under the snow, so we begin to climb the hill. It’s only like 300-400 feet, but it’s steep enough that you have to use your hands to make forward progress and none of us have gloves on. None of us even have hiking boots, I’m the closest in some mesh trail runners, but everyone’s feet are completely soaked and putting our hands in the snow is painful. At this point I’m starting to get pretty concerned that we might not get out of this, and about 100 feet up one of our party essentially gives up, sits down in the snow and tells us to go on without her and has a pretty major panic attack. I can see a pretty sturdy looking bush another 100/150 feet up so I tell her that I’m going to push to that and then rap back down with the rope and pull her up and to try to keep her hands out of the snow. She’s freaking out pretty bad, but not much to do but keep on at this point. It’s worth noting that it’s dark now, my head lamp was broken and my friend had one but it was low on battery, and neither of the other 2 people had head lamps, so everything after this mostly happens in the dark. I eventually make it to the bush, but it’s one of the harder things I can remember doing in my life and I slip a lot and have a few scary slides down the snow, but I make it and begin to setup the rope. My friend has our 6mm tag line and he says he’ll push to the top of the ridge and set that up, the last person is a loving trooper and also makes it to the bush but doesn’t think she can make the last push to the ridge, which is pretty steep. I’m not sure how my friend got up it to be honest, it was hard with the rope. I rap back down to her, but I set up a double rap because it’s what I’m most familiar with, and I don’t have enough rope to make it to her. I pull everything I have off my harness/out of my pack and manage to girth hitch maybe 10 feet of slings to a climbing pack. It’s short a fair distance and there’s a lot of yelling and traversing along the hill. It’s impossible to get her to move and she’s hyper-ventilating and I’m no longer convinced I’m going to get her back to the car. I decide to call 911, but unfortunately the reception is bad, and although the call goes through I can’t hear them at all. I just talk into my phone that we need a rescue and explain our location as best I can and then hang up. I finally end up holding the carabiner in my hand to get the last couple feet and then hauling her up until I can attach her to my harness. Eventually she makes it to me, but she’s still freaking the gently caress out, I try to calm her down by saying I called for a rescue and she calms down enough to take out her phone which has enough reception to place a real call, 911 says they’ll talk to their rescuers and see what can be done and try to call us back. That doesn’t sound super convincing to me so I figure we’d better get off this snowy hell on our own. I set her up on a prussik and she’s more or less able to make her way up the hill with the rope, and I’m essentially self belaying with an ATC behind her up the hill, at this point my friend has made it to the top of the ridge and has the tag line setup on a tree. We use it to pull up the climbing rope and continue onward. I’m exhausted at this point and forgot to detach the rope from the bush I’d originally used so I have to go back down and spend about 30 minutes fighting the bush to free the rope, by the time all 4 of us are on top of the ridge it’s probably 8pm. At some point we see a plane flying around and 911 calls us back to say the rescuers are driving in from tucson and they have our location and we should stay put. We actually found the trail at the top of the ridge, and we probably could have followed it out, but the trail is still covered in snow and I’m concerned we’ll lose the trail in the dark with only the one head lamp and we hunker down in a place where the snow’s melted and wait for the rescuers. The rescue itself is pretty uneventful, they show up, give us some warm socks, head lamps, and extra clothes, and then we follow the trail back down to the cars. The rescuers actually lost the trail a couple times so I’m fairly glad we waited. I think if it were just my climbing partner and me we would have made it without rescue, although it would have been a pretty poo poo experience, but having the other 2 people with us made it very difficult. I don’t think we’d have died without it, but frostbite was a pretty serious concern, and the girl who laid down in the snow got some nerve damage we think and still has no feeling in the tips of 3 of her fingers. Anyway, take winter conditions seriously.
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Jan 7, 2020 16:39
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Jesus loving christ. Good job keeping your head, but there are a lot of lessons here, tons of which boil down to insufficient prep.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:08
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Glad you all made it out relatively unscathed. If you want to flay your ego, post this on MP with your reflections and ask for feedback.
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Jan 7, 2020 18:35
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I was phone posting earlier, but I've been in my fair share of lovely situations when climbing went awry. On anything with a meaningful approach/decent, speed is safety, and if you end up way behind schedule before you even start, then the best idea is often to abort and come back the next day. In this case you did eventually back off, but too late to have daylight for an unknown and snow covered descent. Everyone in the party should have had a headlamp, and I personally go as far as to carry extra batteries as well if I'm doing anything alpine or anything with questionable approach/decent trails. My personal approach to multi-pitch climbing where I think I may run out of daylight is to schedule back from sunset, and give myself some time goals as to when I need to be where on the route. It sounds like you were the most experienced climber in the group, which means that, whether you like it or not, you're kinda responsible for everyone's well being and making sure that the group makes smart decisions as a whole. You and your crew here were blatantly missing several of the ten essentials - light, appropriate clothing, and sufficient tools for navigation/knowledge of the route beta. In addition to that you started late in unexpected weather already knowing that your clothing was inadequate and your approach/decent beta was inadequate. The last time I was overly optimistic about how long it would take me and my partner to complete a climb, we ended up stuck on the side of Mt Slesse with no food or water for 36 hours in _solid_ fog, painstakingly rappelling into a white abyss, abandoning a bit of gear at almost every step. So - I'm not trying, for a second, to claim that I haven't done some stupid things, but you absolutely have to identify what went wrong and learn from it. In my case, it was a combination of insufficient planning, overly optimistic time estimates, and bad luck that weather rolled in on a clear forecast day. We had sleeping bags, plenty of gear, appropriate clothing, etc, and were planning to melt snow on the backside to refill our water once we got to the summit, but we got caught in bad whether and ended up bivying two nights on the side before we got back to solid earth. In our case the worst of it was a lot of discomfort and maybe $50 each worth of gear to replace. I was very fortunate in this case that the guy I was with was also an experienced climber with whom I get along well and can work with under stress and time constraints without either of us losing our poo poo. I don't know your friend who lost it and sat down in the snow. I don't know what condition she was in physically or mentally, but that kind of action endangers the entire group. In a situation like that you absolutely need to keep moving (safely!) and just throwing yourself into the snow is really, really bad. If I were in your shoes today, I would seriously consider not taking her out on anything remotely alpine again. I would also think really hard about whether or not you saw your party morale flagging long before this point. If you did, and if you pushed the group to move on and get through the climb "because hey we're here now we may as well do it", then that's a problem and you need to make sure you catch yourself if you're doing that again sometime.
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Jan 7, 2020 19:30
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M. Night Skymall posted:
Yes, but not just winter. Summer can also be loving brutal. The rule of thumb is that you should always have your 10 Essentials with you when you go hiking in unfamiliar terrain. Do your research beforehand and figure out what types of trails there are (if any) and what type they are (paved, unpaved, animal trail, etc.). At the very least, you should have:
Seriously, I see climbers try to pack as light as possible when they go on trips, and that's a huge mistake. The climbing itself is not necessarily the most dangerous part of a climbing trip.
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Jan 7, 2020 21:24
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Semi related just saw some YouTube blogger who does climbing bids made one about his first fall (probably 20ish feet?) ICE CLIMBING and he caught so much poo poo for being a dumbass that he deleted it.
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Jan 7, 2020 21:39
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I guess it depends on what type of climbing you are doing. But generally I only have appropriate clothing, hard lamp, and navigation. Water and food for the objective. Otherwise light and fast.
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Jan 7, 2020 21:49
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armorer posted:I was phone posting earlier, but I've been in my fair share of lovely situations when climbing went awry. On anything with a meaningful approach/decent, speed is safety, and if you end up way behind schedule before you even start, then the best idea is often to abort and come back the next day. In this case you did eventually back off, but too late to have daylight for an unknown and snow covered descent. Everyone in the party should have had a headlamp, and I personally go as far as to carry extra batteries as well if I'm doing anything alpine or anything with questionable approach/decent trails. I did bring a headlamp, it just didn't work, but I thought it would. Although I almost bought a new one before this trip because my lamp was like 5-6 years old and I had a feeling I'd need it..whelp. I did have my phone with a full spare battery as a backup (so probably like 4 or 5 full charges of my phone.) It was kind of awkward, but I was able to use it as a flashlight when I really needed to see something. I also stopped at a gear store on Friday to ask about conditions specifically at the place we were going to, and the guy just said it'd be cold in the winter, but obviously didn't mention it'd be under 2 feet of snow. It was our first day on Mt. Lemmon and I really wasn't prepared for the level of "adventure" involved, I mean it's a fully bolted sport crag with a "20 minute" approach we were going to, it's not even remotely billed as adventure climbing. I don't know what happened to that girl, apparently she'd had a similar incident hiking in the snow in the past where she had a full on freakout, but no one bothered to tell me that until after. I've been climbing with her outside in the past, but only in nice/warm weather with straight forward well maintained approaches. The original plan was for us to do roadside crags with her on Day 1, and then just my friend and I were going to do Planet Eater/other stuff the second day, so no one had to sit around while we multi-pitched. I'm not sure why that plan changed, but my friend was the one who made that choice not me. Anyway, in the end I think my biggest lessons are that I'm older now and if I'm going to go out with younger people I can't expect them to be prepared for things unless I ask(in hindsight it's crazy that neither girl even had a headlamp), and to be way more ready to bail and push back harder against my friend who was very aggressive about wanting to do the climb. I had to push pretty hard to even get him to bail off the 3rd pitch. I also could have loaned one of them a technical jacket before we left since I had 2 with me, though I didn't take them both in my backpack for the climb. Anyway, obviously I underestimated this specific trip pretty severely, but I think in general I've let myself get pretty complacent about being outdoors since I started going outside again, and this was a pretty good wake up call that nature's not always friendly or compliant. It also could have gone way worse, like it wasn't even that the weather turned on us or anything, it was just letting ourselves get in over our heads and having no concrete plan for how we were going to get out of the situation we were putting ourselves in, or really putting the other 2 people in, since I guess we could have just brute forced our way out of it. Also that I really suck at staying on trail, we basically lost the trail to the crag like 100 feet in, and if we'd stayed on it we would have gotten to the ridge we we were rescued off of on the way in, and then either bailed because we didn't want to descend the snowy hill, or had a plan for getting up/down it. Finally I think I need to talk to my friend about having a better margin for safety in the outdoors because although he was better prepared than the other 2, he definitely tries to travel "superlight" and sort of relies on me to pack in a lot of extra stuff just in case and if we both had a bigger margin for safety we probably could have helped the other 2 out more with spare clothes etc.
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Jan 7, 2020 21:59
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spwrozek posted:I guess it depends on what type of climbing you are doing. But generally I only have appropriate clothing, hard lamp, and navigation. Water and food for the objective. Otherwise light and fast. Most people are like that. But here's what I've learned in over a decade of doing cross-country activities: it's a good idea to plan for the worst case scenario when dealing with the wilderness, especially in remote areas. In the case of climbing, the question to ask yourself is this: what if you sprain/break your ankle and become immobilized, and your climbing partner has to hike back to civilization (maybe to park rangers) to get help? You'll be on the crag on your own, and you might spend most of the day (and/or night) there. If you have enough water/food for what you originally thought would be just a half-day trip, and no emergency shelter, fire gear and so on, you'll be quite miserable, and perhaps even at risk of further ailments depending on the weather. Personally, the only time when I don't bother with extra food and water is if I'll be within an easy (e.g. maintained trail) ~10 minute walk of my car. Those types of climbing spots are pretty common here in Central Texas. But if there is anything that would be called an "approach", I try to bring extra stuff. Being over-prepared is much more preferable to risking being under-prepared. Obviously you don't need a 40 lbs backpack, but the wilderness is not the place for minimalism.
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Jan 7, 2020 22:49
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You are definitely correct.
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Jan 7, 2020 22:51
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Do you guys ever get pain in your big toe / ball of your foot? I've noticed that climbing seems to stress mine pretty bad. If I stretch my toes out they crack often and definitely feel sore. They were starting to feel better after I took the 2 weeks off for my shoulder, but now that I'm back to just doing light climbing focusing on footwork only they're sore again already, too
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Jan 8, 2020 16:01
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Sab669 posted:Do you guys ever get pain in your big toe / ball of your foot? I've noticed that climbing seems to stress mine pretty bad. If I stretch my toes out they crack often and definitely feel sore. How long have you been climbing for? I vaguely remember my feet being a little sore when I switched to softer shoes, but that went away as (I assume) my feet got stronger. If you’re wearing a newer pair of shoes, they could also be too tight.
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Jan 8, 2020 16:44
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I started in April. 2-4 times per week, every week, with the exception of taking time off in December for said injuries. I actually want to downsize my shoes - I leave them in my car so when they're cold they fit pretty tight, but after 20-30 minutes of climbing they warm up and expand and feel too large, actually. Like I have a hard time on ~V3-V4 slab problems because there's a little too much "roll" for my big toe and I can't get a good placement on foot chips
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Jan 8, 2020 17:51
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Sab669 posted:I started in April. 2-4 times per week, every week, with the exception of taking time off in December for said injuries. I actually want to downsize my shoes - I leave them in my car so when they're cold they fit pretty tight, but after 20-30 minutes of climbing they warm up and expand and feel too large, actually. Like I have a hard time on ~V3-V4 slab problems because there's a little too much "roll" for my big toe and I can't get a good placement on foot chips They might just be getting tired. I was going to say that my toes hurt if I get distracted and leave my shoes on while I'm talking to someone or something, or if I have a particularly long session, but my shoes are pretty tight. I think there was some adjustment when I switched to soft shoes, but it was a while ago. There's probably some small level of discomfort the day after I climb, but not as bad as my hands. Climbing definitely messes your toes up so discomfort's not unusual or anything.
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Jan 8, 2020 18:01
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Yea, I attributed it entirely to just... standing up on my tip-toes basically all the drat time. 170 pounds and 5'8 is a lot of weight to support for a single toe. I have annoying lace-up shoes which I never take off at all when I'm at the gym; maybe I'll start taking them off between climbs to give my toes a break.
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Jan 8, 2020 18:06
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Imagine a ballet dancer trying to get on pointe. Pretty much the same thing is happening here. The toes are jammed together but ultimately the weight is loading in a lot more on the big toe. Rest and general foot strengthening is the key.
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Jan 8, 2020 18:11
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Take your shoes off when you’re not climbing. Get slippers or velcro shoes if laces are too much of a hassle
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Jan 8, 2020 18:56
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How do you guys fit workouts into your schedule? I can't really figure it out. Currently I climb and then do my workouts after climbing, but I'm often too exhausted to push myself hard or get a real solid workout in. If I workout on my off-days I'm normally too sore to climb the next day.
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Jan 9, 2020 03:14
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It depends what your goals are. If you are trying to be a stronger climber you can probably stick to core work/antagonistic workouts, and just climb more. But if general fitness is your goal you'll have to either suck it up or do less of something.
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Jan 9, 2020 04:19
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Partial Octopus posted:How do you guys fit workouts into your schedule? I can't really figure it out. Currently I climb and then do my workouts after climbing, but I'm often too exhausted to push myself hard or get a real solid workout in. If I workout on my off-days I'm normally too sore to climb the next day. If you're focusing of climbing, the supplemental workout shouldn't be too hard. You might even want to scale down the effort and time you spend at the normal gym. If you feel sore/exhausted, its likely too much.j General rule of thumb is 15% supplemental workout to climbing (source: Hörst's climbing podcast). Perhaps avoid climbing muscles entirely at the gym if you're climbing the next day. Also, worsening recovery is a part of growing older. Make sure you eat enough, sleep enough and avoid heavy drinking. E: if working out during the climbing session, you should only do it when fresh. One common way to fit in weighted pullups or hangboarding is to first warm up with some easy climbing, do the workout, take a break and then do the max effort climbing. Core can oftentimes be fitted in at the end of the session. Sigmund Fraud fucked around with this message at 10:46 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 10:41
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Partial Octopus posted:How do you guys fit workouts into your schedule? I can't really figure it out. Currently I climb and then do my workouts after climbing, but I'm often too exhausted to push myself hard or get a real solid workout in. If I workout on my off-days I'm normally too sore to climb the next day. Climbing is primarily a skill based sport, so a supplemental workout of that difficulty is just making your time on the wall less focused and efficient. Drop it or do something lighter. I only do a core workout and antagonist exercises 2x/week and nothing else to supplement.
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Jan 9, 2020 18:42
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interrodactyl posted:Climbing is primarily a skill based sport, so a supplemental workout of that difficulty is just making your time on the wall less focused and efficient. What's your core and antagonist routine? I took the last two months off for the most part due to illness and going back I'm incredibly weak and have forgotten how to climb. Seems like a good time for a new training plan.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:02
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I'd also be curious to hear, particularly antagonistic exercises because I'll need to start doing those now, if I'm able to, or later once my shoulder's back in action Doc said I have a "shoulder impingement" so now I need to call a physical therapist (not unexpected)... Looking that up on WebMD it sounds like it could be weeks of recovery 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 19:25
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Sab669 posted:Doc said I have a "shoulder impingement" so now I need to call a physical therapist (not unexpected)... Looking that up on WebMD it sounds like it could be weeks of recovery Tip: Get a physiotherapist specializing in (pro) athletes. You might feel silly as a wkd warrior to seek expert advice but we climbers really do wreck our shoulders and it's not the same wear and tear as office workers with SIS.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:45
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The only antagonistic exercises you need are your pectorals and your triceps. Climbing works out every other muscle group. And even then, you don't have to be insanely hardcore about it. Bodyweight exercises are totally fine. If you have access to a gym, a bench press/shoulder press session once a week with medium-load should be sufficient.
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Jan 9, 2020 21:12
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Sab669 posted:I'd also be curious to hear, particularly antagonistic exercises because I'll need to start doing those now, if I'm able to, or later once my shoulder's back in action Sigmund Fraud posted:Weeks? Haha sorry to break it to you but its most likely a lifetime of rehab and months/years before you're back at 100% Most injuries of that kind do require a "lifetime" of care after, but you might not need too long before you're back close to 100% depending on how bad your case is. And the "care" you'll need to put after is being as smart as you should have been with your warm-ups and extra training you do. But do expect a couple of months to properly heal, it's not going away in 3 weeks that's for sure. I have shoulder tendinopathy/impingement and my rehab is going faster than I thought it would. I did go and see a physio that is specialized in rock climbing injuries though. You will have to adapt your climbing for a while (dumb dynos with 1 hand catches and weird slab where you put all of your weight on a straight arm to reach up, etc. are a bad idea while you heal up), but you can and probably should keep climbing. One of the first thing my physio told me is to keep climbing as much as I did (4x a week, pretty long session) but to be smarter about it and work on keeping my shoulder active, etc. Also, one of the most amazing cures for shoulder impingement is dead hangs on a bar. It's near magical really. Read up on John M. Kirsch if you're interested and talk about your physio first obviously (mine told me that they were a great idea for me, but might not be for other people who do not have great shoulder mobility). It's not the first time my shoulder acts up (I had something similar when I was doing Judo), so I'm pretty confident things will be fine. Be smart though, injuries to complicated structures like the shoulder can bother you for years/life if you don't treat them well. Fortunately (or unfortunately) rest is not the solution. To give you an idea of the time frame, I had pain for about a month or so before I saw a physio and it's been around 3-4 weeks since I've started treating it. I'm back around 80% overall and I'd say I'm back close to 100% on most type of climbs. No more pain in day to day life. KingColliwog fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 22:07
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I can live with "months/years until you're back to 100%" so long as it's not nearly that long before returning to climbing. After taking 2 weeks off of no climbing + limiting myself to No Hands EZ Slab problems I'm blown away by how much I've missed the hobby :'( I had extremely limited range of motion back in November, like "turning my arms to rotate the steering wheel in my car" was a challenge. But now it's pretty good. Very minor pain when I brush my [long] hair, or do this sort of stretch:  Thanks for sharing your experience with a similar injury, King I think it was just a matter of over-doing myself onthis problem too frequently, then after they reset that cave they set a dyno that I did a few times before my arm got REALLY hurty. So yea I'll be sure to avoid dynos / 'brutal' shoulder problems in the near future Sab669 fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jan 9, 2020 |
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Jan 9, 2020 22:23
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Does anyone have some links or know of any resources for getting into mountaineering/alpine climbing? I've just finished reading Touching the Void and for some insane reason it made me MORE curious and eager to try it out. I'm a fairly proficient climber to begin with (about 5.11 sport, 5.10 trad) and are used to winter camping, week-long treks/hiking and outdoor life in general. Equipment recommendations and general advice is appreciated but any kind of advice would be nice.
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Jan 9, 2020 22:53
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