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Actuarial Fables posted:The Internet DNS server is the one that your router will use for resolving addresses. This makes perfect sense. Leaving the DHCP DNS fields empty (they are labeled as optional) has all clients using the router as their DNS. I didn't even consider that the router would be caching.
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Jan 12, 2020 17:19
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hey girl you up posted:Hey, stupid question. I'm probably perfectly-situated for a small Ubiquity setup, but I wanna double-check. This can be as simple or complicated as you want it to be. I want to hit the second part of your question first, which is what Ubiquiti stuff you should get. For home use, I would probably start off with one Ubiquiti Dream Machine. My thought would be, if you have Cat5e running somewhere convenient, go from your current FIOS stuff -> cat5e -> Dream Machine placed somewhere on the main living floor and see if that helps your upstairs wifi problem, if not you can always add another access point for upstairs. Or you could stuff it in the basement and get another access point (either an AC Lite or NanoHD) on the second floor, since that is the area where you are having the most issues. How this gets ran, and where everything starts and ends all depends on where your ethernet is ran through the walls. The other side is you generally don't want two routers on the same network because you can run into all kinds of wonky stuff. The exception to this is if you can use DMZ mode for the FIOS equipment so it more or less just passes on all traffic and routing duties to the Ubiquiti stuff. I don't really know a lot about FIOS on that end. Do you currently use TV? If not, that probably simplifies things because you can just plug your router into an ethernet box from outside and skip all the fun FIOS equipment. Its going to be a bit of a project, and for the unifi stuff there isn't a ton of upkeep that I've had in the 1+ year that ive used it.
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Jan 12, 2020 19:02
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For a UniFi setup, the most difficult part will be getting everything set up in the first place (easier if you go with the Dream Machine due to the integrated controller). Once you have things set with the initial configuration, maintenance and making additional tweaks is very simple as everything is managed through a central management controller. There's even an app you can use to connect to the controller - hides some of the more "advanced" features which makes looking through the settings less of a daunting task.
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Jan 12, 2020 19:19
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As I said above, I have a USG, and after setting it up, basic remote administration is very simple and handy. Sounds like that might help your serviceability question.
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Jan 12, 2020 19:49
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https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/t/13785983 How’s this as a low cost option for family members? Is Netgear verboten these days?
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Jan 12, 2020 20:30
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I'm looking for a Switch that isn't a consumer piece of poo poo. When I used to work in Sys Admin land 5 - 10 years ago, my go-to was HP ProCurve switches, but I've not really kept up with Hardware. It doesn't need any features - just needs to be super reliable with 8 or 16 ports. PoE is nice, Managed is nice. Both are optional. Price does not matter. --- Related: I have an unmanaged Netgear 8-port switch. When I plug it in, computers on the Local Network that aren't even hooked up to the Switch (But are hooked up to the same router) start failing. The physical connection just dies, and I have no idea why. If anyone has ideas on why this would happen, I'm open to those ideas.
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Jan 12, 2020 22:56
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Canine Blues Arooo posted:Related: I have an unmanaged Netgear 8-port switch. When I plug it in, computers on the Local Network that aren't even hooked up to the Switch (But are hooked up to the same router) start failing. The physical connection just dies, and I have no idea why. If anyone has ideas on why this would happen, I'm open to those ideas. Do you have a loop somewhere?
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Jan 12, 2020 23:13
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I use an Asus RT-AC66u (formerly a Sprint SP-AC2015) and I just picked up a refurb T-Mobile AC1900 that I'm converting to a stock Asus RT-AC68u. Is there any advantage in using the 68 as my router over the 66? Ultimately one will be my router and one will be an AP or repeater.
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Jan 12, 2020 23:57
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:I use an Asus RT-AC66u (formerly a Sprint SP-AC2015) and I just picked up a refurb T-Mobile AC1900 that I'm converting to a stock Asus RT-AC68u. Merlin still supports the RT-AC68U. It has a faster processor and range should be slightly better too, if I recall correctly. I heard a while back that ASUS was starting to fight back against people converting those, so make sure your instructions are up-to-date.
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Jan 13, 2020 00:01
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astral posted:Do you have a loop somewhere? The topology looks like so: https://imgur.com/a/BXFUtbO Basically, when the first switch is plugged in, connectivity to PC2 sometimes dies. Testing the individual RJ45 wires, it manifests as a physical connectivity issue, but when I remove that first switch from the network, everything is fine again. I have no idea what to make of that.
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Jan 13, 2020 00:18
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Does that switch have an uplink port, or an uplink button that you can turn on or off?
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Jan 13, 2020 00:20
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:Does that switch have an uplink port, or an uplink button that you can turn on or off? It does not
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Jan 13, 2020 01:29
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Canine Blues Arooo posted:The topology looks like so: Does that happen at any particular time? The network going out for that PC I mean,
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Jan 13, 2020 01:31
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Fallom posted:What kind of dynamic DNS service do people like these days? I’ve been using DuckDNS but apparently it’s not hard to set something up on AWS for about $1 a month. I use Cloudflare as my registrar / DNS host these days, and they've got some dynamic options as well.
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Jan 13, 2020 05:31
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Canine Blues Arooo posted:I'm looking for a Switch that isn't a consumer piece of poo poo. When I used to work in Sys Admin land 5 - 10 years ago, my go-to was HP ProCurve switches, but I've not really kept up with Hardware. HP ProCurve is still decent stuff. I bought a HP 1820-24G for the house when I wired the place up. Works great and it’s a fanless model so no noise.
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Jan 13, 2020 07:51
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Canine Blues Arooo posted:
A lot of the older Netgear 4-16 port blue metal box switches shipped with poo poo power supplies that fail. When they start failing the switch usually stops working, but can also cause some really weird issues. I dealt with a lot of these at work. It will either be a 5v or 12v power supply. I'd try swapping that out if you have a compatible one laying around.
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Jan 13, 2020 08:54
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What's the current recommendation on powerline adapters? Are the models in the OP still current or is there a new goonsensus?
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Jan 14, 2020 05:13
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PiHole users question: How often do you whitelist things? Since my initial few days of whitelisting/blacklisting (thanks to https://firebog.net I think I only did like 10 whitelists), I can't think of when I touched it. I ask this because I've just set a second instance of pihole (i.e. dual pihole instances) but not sure I can be bothered to go to the effort of setting up a syncing script.
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Jan 14, 2020 18:05
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I haven't added anything to my pihole's whitelist in over a year.
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Jan 14, 2020 18:12
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I haven't had to even disable it for quite a while. I think it has been improving over time.
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Jan 14, 2020 20:54
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:What's the current recommendation on powerline adapters? Are the models in the OP still current or is there a new goonsensus? I've had great results using the Magic 2 line from Devolo. Before, nothing could cope with streaming high bitrate 4K bluray rips from my NAS, but these have the bandwidth to keep my TV fed over the houses powerline network. Disclaimer, I'm in the UK, so they may be crap on other countries home power wiring.
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Jan 14, 2020 21:12
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Heners_UK posted:PiHole users question: How often do you whitelist things? Since my initial few days of whitelisting/blacklisting (thanks to https://firebog.net I think I only did like 10 whitelists), I can't think of when I touched it. I ask this because I've just set a second instance of pihole (i.e. dual pihole instances) but not sure I can be bothered to go to the effort of setting up a syncing script. I haven't whitelisted anything, though that doesn't mean everything is working. I keep meaning to get videos on nhl.com working, but I never get around to it. I use https://dbl.oisd.nl/ for my list.
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Jan 14, 2020 21:21
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:What's the current recommendation on powerline adapters? Are the models in the OP still current or is there a new goonsensus? I have these ones and they work pretty well : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H74VKZU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jan 14, 2020 21:45
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Heners_UK posted:PiHole users question: How often do you whitelist things? Since my initial few days of whitelisting/blacklisting (thanks to https://firebog.net I think I only did like 10 whitelists), I can't think of when I touched it. I ask this because I've just set a second instance of pihole (i.e. dual pihole instances) but not sure I can be bothered to go to the effort of setting up a syncing script. Rarely. I have to do it to log into the Nvidia account on my Shield every so often.
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Jan 15, 2020 00:19
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Is there some kind of home server that allows silent backups over the internet? I was trying to think of something for older family members to set and forget, and have come here so there is an off site backup. edit: Windows based, for the clients. I do have a Unifi Cloud Key but it has a single 1TB drive that people have said is not that reliable.
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Jan 15, 2020 03:20
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Charles posted:Is there some kind of home server that allows silent backups over the internet? I was trying to think of something for older family members to set and forget, and have come here so there is an off site backup. Most consumer NAS devices do this. Look at Synology and QNAP and test set it up yourself before you give it to a relative.
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Jan 15, 2020 03:30
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Twerk from Home posted:Most consumer NAS devices do this. Look at Synology and QNAP and test set it up yourself before you give it to a relative. Alright, I kind of thought of it 2 days before they're leaving, I wish I had thought of sooner cause the initial backup would take forever if done over the internet. Oh well. I have a Windows PC unused too but it stopped turning on after the last power failure (it was running the Unifi software but I was tired and frustrated and didn't feel like diagnosing it).
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Jan 15, 2020 03:37
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So I've got a Netgear R7000 which has given a decent account of itself for a couple years now but lately the wifi connectivity has been incredibly spotty (it seems like DNS just...doesn't resolve) and it also has started just randomly rebooting. I've been thinking about switching to an Edgerouter X and an AC Lite since it's pretty much the same price as a higher-end home router anyway. But the R7000 has a 1 GHz CPU and the Dream Machine has 1.7 GHz, so I'm a tiny bit worried about moving "down" to the 880 MHz dual-core CPU/256MB RAM in the Edgerouter. I would ideally like QoS mostly just to make sure that video streaming works in the living room, but aside from that I just want something that slings packets without fuss. Am I better off paying up for the Dream Machine at this point? I live in an apartment in NYC so a single attached AP is fine. EDIT: Oh I went a few pages further back and I guess the Edgerouter is pretty much deprecated at this point? Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Jan 15, 2020 |
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Jan 15, 2020 03:44
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Going to try for some advice again since my first request didn’t turn up anything. Reddit gave me a couple suggestions but I trust you goons more. I want to replace the Verizon fios G3100 router that they rent for $15/mo. So far it’s working well but I don’t want to rent and thought there could be something better. I’m in 1000sq ft apartment with thin cement walls. I could drill holes if needed but I’d rather not. I’d like to keep the price under $300 because I could just buy they one I have for that much. My experience with this is limited to setting up a few routers and modems with most major disasters. An all in one solution might be best but I’m open. We have two desktops, two phones, tv, and a ps4. Max ten devices I’d say but typically half that might running. Reddit gave me a little advice but it seemed a little pricy. They suggested a Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite with two Ubiquiti AC PROs at either end of the apartment. Unless I’m bad at pricing that’s about $100 more than just buying the G3100. Was that good advice and if not is there a better solution for me?
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Jan 15, 2020 04:35
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Inspector_666 posted:So I've got a Netgear R7000 which has given a decent account of itself for a couple years now but lately the wifi connectivity has been incredibly spotty (it seems like DNS just...doesn't resolve) and it also has started just randomly rebooting. If you've got the budget for the Dream Machine then that's probably the way to go. Edgerouters are still fine to buy and use, but if QoS is a hard requirement and their non-hardware offloaded speeds are less than your current + near future internet speeds then they're not going to work for you. If you can live without QoS then the ERX+AP-AC-Lite is a perfectly valid option I wouldn't compare routers with raw specs, because it doesn't mean much. Much better to go off of benchmarks with the desired features enabled/disabled.
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Jan 15, 2020 05:13
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Actuarial Fables posted:If you've got the budget for the Dream Machine then that's probably the way to go. Edgerouters are still fine to buy and use, but if QoS is a hard requirement and their non-hardware offloaded speeds are less than your current + near future internet speeds then they're not going to work for you. If you can live without QoS then the ERX+AP-AC-Lite is a perfectly valid option Yeah, I know just looking at clock speeds is dumb but it's hard to find usable info across manufacturers that isn't just marketing for stuff at this level. I will probably just keep mulling the decision over until the R7000 really forces my hand, but it's good to know the ERX is still valid.
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Jan 15, 2020 05:24
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Snowy posted:Going to try for some advice again since my first request didn’t turn up anything. Reddit gave me a couple suggestions but I trust you goons more. You haven't really said whether or not you plan on expansion, gigabit speeds, desire to janitor, moving to WiFi 6, etc. The thread recommended (Archer C7, 1750 or 1900) router sounds like a good fit for you if you just want to set up and forget, with the occasional firmware upgrade for security purposes, and it's $75-80 for one of those. If you wanted bleeding edge speed and had lots of stuff with network ports built-in, I'd go for a powerline setup. Those concrete walls will cut down on your wireless signal pretty bad, and if there's an outlet already in the room, you don't have to worry about drilling holes. If you want to keep everything wireless you might have no choice but the thread standard, or the EdgeRouter Lite / AC Pros, or a mesh system but once again if those walls are pervasive.. are you getting the coverage you want with the G3100?
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Jan 15, 2020 18:13
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Binary Badger posted:You haven't really said whether or not you plan on expansion, gigabit speeds, desire to janitor, moving to WiFi 6, etc. Thanks BB and sorry for the missed details. I don’t really plan on expansion, not sure how I even could. I have the 200/200 plan but get a little over 300/300 currently. I mentioned that I have a little experience but not tons so I don’t really want to janitor much. So far we’ve hard wired our two desktops and everything else is wireless, tv, ps4, phones. The G3100 is actually working well across the apartment despite the walls, I’ve been impressed. I’ll check out the advice and thanks again, I got my old router based on your tips and it was great ✊🏼
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Jan 15, 2020 18:28
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Snowy posted:Thanks BB and sorry for the missed details. I don’t really plan on expansion, not sure how I even could. I have the 200/200 plan but get a little over 300/300 currently. I mentioned that I have a little experience but not tons so I don’t really want to janitor much. So far we’ve hard wired our two desktops and everything else is wireless, tv, ps4, phones. The ERX should be able to handle those speeds even with all the QoS bells and whistles turned on. That + an AC-lite or similar AP should do just as well as what you have now without the rental fee. Setup is slightly more involved but once it is set you can forget it forever (I haven’t touch my setup at all since I installed it two years ago - solid as a rock).
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Jan 15, 2020 19:16
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I'm having Wifi problems with my current ISP-provided cheapo combo modem/router, an "Arris NVG468MQ" - bad coverage, dropped connections even when signal is good, etc. My powerline setup works adequately, but many of my devices are Wifi only. Quite often, the wifi will go down while the wired connections are still working. Will an Archer A9 provide an adequate performance boost over my current router, or will I need to shell out for something like an "Asus RT-AX88U" or "Archer C5400X" if I want to be able to do things like stream on 4 things and play games simultaneously, with better coverage and no more Wifi connection drops?
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Jan 15, 2020 19:56
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Most WiFi issues are due to where the router is placed. Replacing it with another device in the same location rarely improves the situation. How many WiFi devices are you talking about? In the past anytime more than 10 on ISP provided equipment lead to issues. Once I offloaded WiFi to a separate device(I used an Airport Extreme as a WAP) things got better.
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Jan 15, 2020 20:12
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skipdogg posted:Most WiFi issues are due to where the router is placed. Replacing it with another device in the same location rarely improves the situation. I think that may be the issue, with all the TVs, phones, dots, and google homes around, I easily have 20+ Wifi devices. The issues may be just because of an overloaded computer in the thing.
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Jan 15, 2020 20:35
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Pulled the trigger on a NanoHD, will post more when I get my hands on it and time to muck about.
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Jan 16, 2020 14:32
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Not sure if this is the right thread to ask but when I upload stuff to google drive my connection grinds to a halt and becomes near unusable until it's done uploading. Googling the problem it seems the problem is G-drive is saturating my upload completely and the solution is to limit it to 95%. How would I go about this? Is it a router-level option?
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Jan 17, 2020 19:39
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Rookoo posted:Not sure if this is the right thread to ask but when I upload stuff to google drive my connection grinds to a halt and becomes near unusable until it's done uploading. Googling the problem it seems the problem is G-drive is saturating my upload completely and the solution is to limit it to 95%. How would I go about this? Is it a router-level option? Which router do you have? Even when browsing or streaming, you need a little bit of upload for control packets (acks, primarily) and if those don’t get through, downloads will suffer. Either limit on PC (no idea how to do that) or in router, either on a per-host basis or based on packet type.
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Jan 17, 2020 19:46
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