Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
Where do you think cocaine comes from? It literally falls from the sky in Norway.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Slavvy posted:

Ok so that's what stops the battery bouncing around over bumps, not really a good idea to just leave that out. I don't understand why you can't put it back though. I meant take a picture of your one on your bike to clarify the issue.

Ok, finally got around to doing this, here you go Slavvy (and others):

This is with the black metal cover where it is supposed to go, but not screwed in:



This is without the cover on, and where exactly the battery terminals being too to let the cover back on:




In summary, I've been riding without the cover for a month or so. No issues so far. Anything wrong with leaving it off?

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
Maybe get some rubber strips or a small bungee cord and fashion a battery hold-down at least. Weird that the part that's supposed to be there is impeding your pillion seat installation though.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Martytoof posted:

Maybe get some rubber strips or a small bungee cord and fashion a battery hold-down at least.

I'll get some strips/cord, good shout.

Martytoof posted:

Weird that the part that's supposed to be there is impeding your pillion seat installation though.
It is probably not designed to have 3 different extra ring terminals connected to the batt terminals, thereby raising it significantly, preventing pillion seat installation.

Although this is likely to be moot since I'll be getting a fuse box shortly (this one https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FT8L44J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and putting it here:



with all the accessories wired into it, so that there aren't a million things hanging off the battery terminals. Good plan or not?

DearSirXNORMadam
Aug 1, 2009
You sure that wire is supposed to be routed under the bracket? Because that doesn't look right to me...

Edit: the one that runs under where the screw goes, in the upper part of the picture

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
Sold the DR650. Goodbye, you wonderful pig. :sigh:

Now I'm just left with the Hawk GT. :getin:

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
3d printed a peristaltic pump so I can hook it up to an ESP32 and oil reservoir to try and come up with a DIY automatic chain oiler because I have nothing better to do with my holidays :twisted:

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Mirconium posted:

You sure that wire is supposed to be routed under the bracket? Because that doesn't look right to me...

Edit: the one that runs under where the screw goes, in the upper part of the picture

It is not routed under the bracket, it does not go under where the screw goes.

It merely sat there while I took a photo. It goes over the bracket.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

did my 18000mi service a little early at 16.5k

consisted of:

swapping out the air filter for some power cell pod airfilters so I can keep the stock sealed airbox + snorkels

changing the spark plugs

checking the valve clearances (all were within spec which was expected. doubt I'll have to monkey with different shims til 30000 or so)

retruing / balancing the front wheel

and then a lovely ride in the rain this morning :D

having a garage is lifechanging

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Martytoof posted:

3d printed a peristaltic pump so I can hook it up to an ESP32 and oil reservoir to try and come up with a DIY automatic chain oiler because I have nothing better to do with my holidays :twisted:

Is there a 3D printing thread? I kind of want to get into it but I know literally nothing about them

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Is there a 3D printing thread? I kind of want to get into it but I know literally nothing about them

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3365193

You bet!

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Steakandchips posted:

Although this is likely to be moot since I'll be getting a fuse box shortly (this one https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07FT8L44J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and putting it here:

with all the accessories wired into it, so that there aren't a million things hanging off the battery terminals. Good plan or not?

The fusebox didn't accept the ring terminals on the positive screws area as there was too little room between each plastic divider for the rings to sit inside it. Argh. Really annoyed.

Can anyone suggest a better way to do this?

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
If you're just trying to break each connection out into its own fused circuit then you can probably just replace the connectors with ones that fit. I don't know if that has any implications with regards to gauge and wattage etc, but it should be easy enough to do.

Or invest in a new fusebox I guess.

On my 250 I built a whole new "accessory" wiring harness similar to what you're doing, but I had the advantage of building literally everything from scratch so I just sourced connectors that fit from the getgo and wasn't really working with any manufacturer supplied connectors.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Thanks Marty.

Martytoof posted:

If you're just trying to break each connection out into its own fused circuit then you can probably just replace the connectors with ones that fit.

Sigh, I am not going to do this, snipping and re-crimping new smaller ring terminals for all my accessories is annoying and it just means that if I decide to go back to using the battery directly, I'd need to re-do the whole crimps/terminals again.

Martytoof posted:

Or invest in a new fusebox I guess.

Any suggestions for fuseboxes that have a bit more room for each ring terminal? I don't need 12 different accessories connected, just about 6 or so, so the current one is a bit unnecessarily big (and yet annoyingly cramped).

Alternatively, I might just get a tiny smallcase Antigravity lithium battery and just wire to it directly as it'd be a lot smaller space wise and therefore I would not need to faff with fuseboxes. But godDAMN are AG batteries expensive in the UK, and I do not know of any other brands that do small size ones.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Steakandchips posted:

Thanks Marty.


Sigh, I am not going to do this, snipping and re-crimping new smaller ring terminals for all my accessories is annoying and it just means that if I decide to go back to using the battery directly, I'd need to re-do the whole crimps/terminals again.


Any suggestions for fuseboxes that have a bit more room for each ring terminal? I don't need 12 different accessories connected, just about 6 or so, so the current one is a bit unnecessarily big (and yet annoyingly cramped).

Alternatively, I might just get a tiny smallcase Antigravity lithium battery and just wire to it directly as it'd be a lot smaller space wise and therefore I would not need to faff with fuseboxes. But godDAMN are AG batteries expensive in the UK, and I do not know of any other brands that do small size ones.

Earthx, Shorai, whoever does KTM’s dirt bike batteries?

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

builds character posted:

Earthx, Shorai, whoever does KTM’s dirt bike batteries?

Can you point me to some earthx/shorai/etc that are close to this size?
https://www.antigravitybatteries-uk.co.uk/small-case-type-batteries/antigravity-battery-ag401.html

DearSirXNORMadam
Aug 1, 2009

This was addressed in the thread not too long ago, but be really careful with AGs, they are quite quite fragile, because the firmware is so so.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

https://earthxbatteries.com/shop/etz5g
https://shoraipower.com/lfx07l2-bs12-p46
No?

DearSirXNORMadam
Aug 1, 2009
I rode through 30 minutes of sleet today. Commuter life. I keep telling myself I'm saving money compared to a car...

AnnoyBot
May 28, 2001
So I've spent the past few weeks cranking my '82 Goldwing daily, since it's been sitting for... 3 years? Then I thought hey! I should check the tank! Not empty, but the few ounces of gas were obviously going to do more harm than good. Also the plugs looked like poo poo. So some new gas and clean plugs and it fired up and smogged up the neighborhood (until it warmed up). Hooray!

So I went to ride it around the block today and... brakes are frozen. poo poo. I went to check the return hole in the master cylinder and one of the screws was a bitch to get out. And a bitch to get in. So I gave it a bit of torque and now I have to figure out how the gently caress to use an EZ Out on an M4 screw stump. After that, it's caliper rebuild time.

Free Goldwing. Ran when parked.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

AnnoyBot posted:

Free Goldwing.

This is like a free boat I think.

AnnoyBot
May 28, 2001

Slavvy posted:

This is like a free boat I think.

It's an 82 and it runs. It's actually pretty easy to work on. My kids just take all my time now so it's impossible to deal with any issues in depth. As long as you don't have to crack the case it's not particularly bad.

Oh if anyone wants a BMW R65 or Norton 850 electric start, my dad's getting out of the game due to his balance being shot. SF bay.

SirLeigh
Aug 9, 2008

New seat today. This rainy weather sucks though.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Sunday:
Rode for an hour and a half, in very windy and cold weather, had the heated gloves and grips on max. Nearing the end of the ride, the check engine light came on once or twice. Ignored it because, well, what am I supposed to check and it turned off later.

I then stopped to get some dinner at a diner. Came back to my bike and it would not start! It made a few wheezey attempts at turning over, and then didn't even turn over after that. Guess the check engine light meant the battery was running low, and, in hindsight, I guess the gloves and grips draw more wattage than is produced as excess by the alternator, thereby draining the battery more than is charged by the alternator.

Phoned a mate, he wasn't available but his mum (also a very experienced motorcyclist) told me how to bump start it. I tried, but, there being no decline around about where I was, it was hard to do, and while it got the motor to turn over once or twice, it didn't start the engine and I was beginning to get cold. Parked it behind the diner, steering locked it and disc locked it and phoned a taxi home and ordered a replacement Dynavolt battery just in case.

Monday:
The mate who was unavailable on Sunday picked me up in his van and drove it back to my place 4 miles or so away and helped me remove the old Yuasa battery. I put it to charge for 6 hours on an Optimate charger (I had bought one months ago, but hadn't had a reason to use it till now) and 6 hours later unplug it, even though the charger still has a yellow light on, i.e. charging, since I'm scared to not follow the directions on the battery which say 6 hours to charge, it wasn't warm, so it was unlikely it would explode or anything, but just in case...

Tuesday:
In the morning, now that it's light, I put the old charged up Yuasa battery back in the bike, bike starts no problem, but I've lost one of the terminal nuts so the negative connection is loose. Look around the house for suitable nuts, can't find one that fits inside the stupid Yuasa battery post. Order some what look to be suitable nuts and better sized bolts and google around for an appropriate janky solution. Eventually find one that has me filing the opposite vertices of an m5 nut so that it becomes more of a rectangular nut. The newly filed nut fits under the Yuasa battery post and I secure the screw and connections properly and everything works fine.
One hour later the Dynavolt battery I ordered on Sunday night arrives, with terminal bolts and nuts (which I didn't think it would come with). I top it up with the charger (it topped up in about 20 minutes no problem, the charger's light changed from yellow to green) and leave it on the shelf as a spare.

To do:
1. Once new bolts arrive, replace existing 1 really stupidly short original philips head 8mm m5 bolt and 1 stupidly long slot head m5 25mm bolt with 2 new T25 14mm m5 A2 steel torx bolts + washers.
2. Wire in the Optimate SAE charging lead and leave it coiled up under the seat for future easier charging. That would put the total of accessories wired into the battery at 4 (gloves lead, heated grips, GPS and Optimate SAE lead).
3. Continue practising and riding loads so I can pass my MOD1 and 2 tests and get a proper big bike with more spare wattage than this tiny 125...

AnnoyBot
May 28, 2001
So I delicately removed the calipers from the goldwing with a dead blow hammer. There seems to be RTV (!) poking out around the edges of the pistons. I can't wait to see what kind of uber negligent previous owner fuckery awaits.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

AnnoyBot posted:

So I delicately removed the calipers from the goldwing with a dead blow hammer. There seems to be RTV (!) poking out around the edges of the pistons. I can't wait to see what kind of uber negligent previous owner fuckery awaits.

:psyduck:

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


AnnoyBot posted:

So I delicately removed the calipers from the goldwing with a dead blow hammer. There seems to be RTV (!) poking out around the edges of the pistons. I can't wait to see what kind of uber negligent previous owner fuckery awaits.

No

mewse
May 2, 2006

It's just the brakes, what could possibly go wrong

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Steakandchips posted:

To do:
1. Once new bolts arrive, replace existing 1 really stupidly short original philips head 8mm m5 bolt and 1 stupidly long slot head m5 25mm bolt with 2 new T25 14mm m5 A2 steel torx bolts + washers.
2. Wire in the Optimate SAE charging lead and leave it coiled up under the seat for future easier charging. That would put the total of accessories wired into the battery at 4 (gloves lead, heated grips, GPS and Optimate SAE lead).
3. Continue practising and riding loads so I can pass my MOD1 and 2 tests and get a proper big bike with more spare wattage than this tiny 125...

New bolts installed this morning, so so much easier to put in and take out.

Optimate lead wired in, just in time for the 20watt solar charger coming in the post tomorrow, which means that I can leave it parked outside, outside the back garden, but wired up to the roof so it keeps the battery maintained even if I've not ridden it for a few days.

AnnoyBot
May 28, 2001

What, you don't like a challenge?

The caliper rebuild kit is en route, along with a set of nylon seal picks.

On a happy note, I started it again and it came to life almost immediately. I'm regretting letting it sit, as it seems like the issue before was just fouled plugs. Although given the condition of the brakes, it's probably for the best.

I called the local Suzuki dealer and they want $375 labor + $75 parts to replace the fork seals on my TL1000S. I've done seals on my XJ, but the upside down forks on the TL look like a huge pain to deal with (I've looked at a detailed forum guide for this) so unless this sounds like a giant ripoff I'm just going to have them do it.

What are shop rates like in the rest of the world? This place is in San Jose so it's $125/hr.

pun pundit
Nov 11, 2008

I feel the same way about the company bearing the same name.

What's RTV in this context?

v v v Thanks

pun pundit fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Jan 19, 2020

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

pun pundit posted:

What's RTV in this context?

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/RTV_silicone No?

AnnoyBot
May 28, 2001

Yup. A substance that should not be anywhere near a brake piston, for any reason.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

For future reference, decoding PO repairs by rtv colour:

Grey rtv: I probably know what I'm doing/I am the factory

Black rtv: I know what I'm doing but I'm a cheap motherfucker

Red rtv: I am dunning kruger, check everything on the vehicle now

Clear silicone sealer: I am a middle aged lunatic and/or glass bbq enthusiast, trust nothing I've done or said

Blue hylomar: I know what I'm doing but I'm 1000 years old/I raided granpas shed in desperation

Ulf
Jul 15, 2001

FOUR COLORS
ONE LOVE
Nap Ghost
It's too cold to enjoy working on my bikes here but I did put a denali soundbomb compact on the Nighthawk last weekend.

https://ulfheim.net/pics/bieks/soundbomb.mp4

This thing is a brick, do not expect it to fit on your bikes.

Ulf fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Jan 20, 2020

GnarlyCharlie4u
Sep 23, 2007

I have an unhealthy obsession with motorcycles.

Proof

AnnoyBot posted:

What, you don't like a challenge?

The caliper rebuild kit is en route, along with a set of nylon seal picks.

On a happy note, I started it again and it came to life almost immediately. I'm regretting letting it sit, as it seems like the issue before was just fouled plugs. Although given the condition of the brakes, it's probably for the best.

I called the local Suzuki dealer and they want $375 labor + $75 parts to replace the fork seals on my TL1000S. I've done seals on my XJ, but the upside down forks on the TL look like a huge pain to deal with (I've looked at a detailed forum guide for this) so unless this sounds like a giant ripoff I'm just going to have them do it.

What are shop rates like in the rest of the world? This place is in San Jose so it's $125/hr.

What if the problem isn't the pistons or the seals, but someone scored the gently caress out of the caliper walls themselves?
Godspeed.

Then again there's always Fishhead Big Brakes or an RC51 conversion...

Edit: apparently fishheadbigbrakes.com is not a thing anymore...

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


AnnoyBot posted:

What, you don't like a challenge?

The caliper rebuild kit is en route, along with a set of nylon seal picks.

On a happy note, I started it again and it came to life almost immediately. I'm regretting letting it sit, as it seems like the issue before was just fouled plugs. Although given the condition of the brakes, it's probably for the best.

I called the local Suzuki dealer and they want $375 labor + $75 parts to replace the fork seals on my TL1000S. I've done seals on my XJ, but the upside down forks on the TL look like a huge pain to deal with (I've looked at a detailed forum guide for this) so unless this sounds like a giant ripoff I'm just going to have them do it.

What are shop rates like in the rest of the world? This place is in San Jose so it's $125/hr.

GnarlyCharlie4u posted:

What if the problem isn't the pistons or the seals, but someone scored the gently caress out of the caliper walls themselves?
Godspeed.
This crossed my mind earlier, very good point.
Protip: use a grease gun on the bleeder nipple to push the pistons out, not tools. Makes a hell of a mess, but way less chance of scoring the pistons with pliers or along the lip of the piston sleeve by pulling them out crooked. Also, cover the whole caliper with rags when you do it in case they pop out suddenly.

moxieman
Jul 30, 2013

I'd rather die than go to heaven.
Compressed air works too. Put a thin piece of wood inside the caliper to catch the piston(s). Don’t pinch your fingers.

JQADDINGMACHINE
Jan 5, 2014

i got the bike tagged today, and rode it home in 30something degree weather.

a lot of people seem to like the big fender that hugs the rear tire on these but i just want to show off as much of the rear wheel & tire as i can so i did a fender eliminator on it. Next up is a slip on, I think buying a header would look cool but i think it would be way too loud. i just want a smaller exhaust, the bike already sounds really good.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
Still sexy as h*ck

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply