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Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Phi230 posted:

So I should use glaze medium to glaze?
...yes?

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Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Ok cool

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

just keep swimming

jesus WEP posted:

for sure. gonna buy some little ball bearings for my pots i think

I recommend hematite ones, cheap on ebay. Stainless ball bearings can rust depending on the grade of stainless used.

Your roommate will hate you if you have paint shakers fwiw

Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

So I painted another mini, this one is The Sun from Gloomhaven. Again, technically spoilers so I'll hide the images.







I swear, it doesn't look this horrendous in real life! I guess when you can zoom in on the details with a camera, you can see how sloppy everything is. It's funny, I thought the detail worked looked OK in real life but now I see how bad a job I did. So yeah, I'm a little embarrassed by how bad this really is. I guess playing with it on the table it should look OK. The base isn't a complete disaster, at least.

Kabuki Shipoopi
Jun 22, 2007

If I fall, you don't get the head, right? If you lose the head, you're fucked!

Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:

So I painted another mini

I know what you mean about stuff not looking as great once photographed, but I think that looks great! I especially like the glow from the axe and the small amount of snow on the cape and boots. As long as it looks good on the tabletop and you like it, that's all that really matters. I am far worse than people seem to believe, but I constantly get offers for commissions at my flgs. :shrug:

It looks better than you think it does photographed!

Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

Yeah, you're not wrong. And I really DO like how it looks in person, overall. I just can't help but be a little disappointed in the photos. Maybe I need to get lightbox or some kind of lightbox-like setup.

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

Something you might want to look into is darklining; i.e. taking a darker color, I personally use a thinned wash, and go around the edges of stuff like armor, hairlines, etc. That extra little bit of exaggerated shadowing absolutely makes things pop just that extra little bit.

Also, cameras will definitely pick up every and any little flaw, so even something that might look phenomenal in person can look like poo poo under the camera lens. It's not just you.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


goodness posted:

I recommend hematite ones, cheap on ebay. Stainless ball bearings can rust depending on the grade of stainless used.

Your roommate will hate you if you have paint shakers fwiw
Thanks

My partner hates me anyway so it’s fine

Ropes4u
May 2, 2009

Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:

Yeah, you're not wrong. And I really DO like how it looks in person, overall. I just can't help but be a little disappointed in the photos. Maybe I need to get lightbox or some kind of lightbox-like setup.

I have largely quit taking photos for the same reason, i want to try to play with some of my miniatures not be disappointed that I am not painting them well enough.

Ben Nerevarine
Apr 14, 2006
I had a go at doing highlights with a defined light source. I’m not happy with how that came out, but it was good practice for highlighting and shading in general. Plus he’s just a cute little guy.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Ben Nerevarine posted:

I had a go at doing highlights with a defined light source. I’m not happy with how that came out, but it was good practice for highlighting and shading in general. Plus he’s just a cute little guy.



what miniature is this? I'd love to buy one!

Cool Dad
Jun 15, 2007

It is always Friday night, motherfuckers

Hey buddy you lookin' for bones? I got some bones right here, primo stuff

Ben Nerevarine
Apr 14, 2006

Verisimilidude posted:

what miniature is this? I'd love to buy one!

Mr. Bones!

https://www.reapermini.com/miniatures/lantern/latest/77360

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

Verisimilidude posted:

what miniature is this? I'd love to buy one!

https://www.reapermini.com/search/mr%20bones/latest/77360

If you're in the mood for cute grave robbers I also love these little pumpkin dudes

https://www.reapermini.com/search/pumpkin/latest/77537

long-ass nips Diane fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Jan 23, 2020

Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

Thanks for all the kind words! I shouldn’t let some bad photos get me down.

TKIY
Nov 6, 2012
Grimey Drawer
Looking for some feedback from all the painting gurus here.

I'm designing a set of modular locking paint racks, designed so that you can fit it precisely in your painting space, and order segments with fitted wells for Tamiya, Citadel, and P3/Reaper/Vallejo paints. The way I'm designing it I can also use the locking points to add accessories, like a brush holder.

Is there anything else you can think of that you would like to have as a possible accessory that would be clipped into the side or back of your paint racks?

Example layout:

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

TKIY posted:

Looking for some feedback from all the painting gurus here.

I'm designing a set of modular locking paint racks, designed so that you can fit it precisely in your painting space, and order segments with fitted wells for Tamiya, Citadel, and P3/Reaper/Vallejo paints. The way I'm designing it I can also use the locking points to add accessories, like a brush holder.

Is there anything else you can think of that you would like to have as a possible accessory that would be clipped into the side or back of your paint racks?

Example layout:



Optional sidewalls to stack them for desks with reduced space?

Taeke
Feb 2, 2010


Ben Nerevarine posted:

I had a go at doing highlights with a defined light source. I’m not happy with how that came out, but it was good practice for highlighting and shading in general. Plus he’s just a cute little guy.



Yeah, Mr. Bones is cute as heck. I painted one not too long ago. Maybe if I have time tomorrow I'll see if I can take a picture, although I kept mine grey and black so it's a lote more boring than yours.

TKIY
Nov 6, 2012
Grimey Drawer

Harvey Mantaco posted:

Optional sidewalls to stack them for desks with reduced space?

Hmm, might be tricky but that's a solid idea. Thx!

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.

TKIY posted:

Looking for some feedback from all the painting gurus here.

I'm designing a set of modular locking paint racks, designed so that you can fit it precisely in your painting space, and order segments with fitted wells for Tamiya, Citadel, and P3/Reaper/Vallejo paints. The way I'm designing it I can also use the locking points to add accessories, like a brush holder.

Is there anything else you can think of that you would like to have as a possible accessory that would be clipped into the side or back of your paint racks?

Example layout:



How about a section for a wet pallet and mixing wells?

TKIY
Nov 6, 2012
Grimey Drawer

Mikey Purp posted:

How about a section for a wet pallet and mixing wells?

Good ideas as well, I'll have to see if the material would need to be sealed to be fully waterproofed but that's a small thing to do.

jassi007
Aug 9, 2006

mmmmm.. burger...

TKIY posted:

Looking for some feedback from all the painting gurus here.

I'm designing a set of modular locking paint racks, designed so that you can fit it precisely in your painting space, and order segments with fitted wells for Tamiya, Citadel, and P3/Reaper/Vallejo paints. The way I'm designing it I can also use the locking points to add accessories, like a brush holder.

Is there anything else you can think of that you would like to have as a possible accessory that would be clipped into the side or back of your paint racks?

Example layout:



Include spaces for small brushes, larger brushes, exacto knife sized devices, and glue containers, square tamiya ones, and more standard super glue sized bottles, tweezers, clipper, paint handles of various types? just spouting off ideas of things that are on my desk.

Pastry Mistakes
Apr 6, 2009

Anyone have any pictures of painted Dark Uprising terrain that they love? I'm looking for an overarching color scheme and am unsure of what to go with.

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.

Phi230 posted:

So my next project is a T-Rex. I have the paint scheme ready but does anyone have any materials on how to paint reptile eyes? Or how about open mouths/tongues and teeth. No idea how to do those

This is the coolest dino paint job I've seen hopefully it'll inspire you



Even if you don't go that crazy vibrant, it should give you examples for teeth and scales and eyes if you zoom in.

Teeth are like bone, you just want to layer brown to cream to white. Or can paint white and use a contrast paint or wash in a brownish color.

Eyes you just want a bright center with a darker edge, and then draw a cat eye style slash. Paint it dark, then layer a brighter color in the middle only. Then freehand the slash pupil in black.

Mouth I'd just kinda paint it red, then maybe use a lighter red on the center of the tongue.

Punkinhead
Apr 2, 2015

TKIY posted:

Looking for some feedback from all the painting gurus here.

I'm designing a set of modular locking paint racks, designed so that you can fit it precisely in your painting space, and order segments with fitted wells for Tamiya, Citadel, and P3/Reaper/Vallejo paints. The way I'm designing it I can also use the locking points to add accessories, like a brush holder.

Is there anything else you can think of that you would like to have as a possible accessory that would be clipped into the side or back of your paint racks?

Example layout:



Maybe that angled piece in the middle could have slots for tools like brushes, x-acto blades, metal files, etc. That way that piece could serve two purposes (Changing the paint racks angle, holding tools) and you wouldn't have to make another unit just for tools.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

Zaphod42 posted:

This is the coolest dino paint job I've seen hopefully it'll inspire you



Even if you don't go that crazy vibrant, it should give you examples for teeth and scales and eyes if you zoom in.

Teeth are like bone, you just want to layer brown to cream to white. Or can paint white and use a contrast paint or wash in a brownish color.

Eyes you just want a bright center with a darker edge, and then draw a cat eye style slash. Paint it dark, then layer a brighter color in the middle only. Then freehand the slash pupil in black.

Mouth I'd just kinda paint it red, then maybe use a lighter red on the center of the tongue.

What if I want the teeth to be yellowed, like dirty teeth? Do I do a sepia wash in them? Or a sepia glaze?

TKIY
Nov 6, 2012
Grimey Drawer

PinheadSlim posted:

Maybe that angled piece in the middle could have slots for tools like brushes, x-acto blades, metal files, etc. That way that piece could serve two purposes (Changing the paint racks angle, holding tools) and you wouldn't have to make another unit just for tools.

Yup that's the 45 degree connector. It doesn't have wells simply because my sizing wasn't right for the Tamiya size (which are huge comparatively).

Basically the whole system will be that you order a piece in a certain size (in 80mm increments), select which wells you want, or a generic shelf for miscellany. So you could order a 240mm Straight Vallejo section, a 90 degree inside corner with shelves, a 160mm Straight Citadel section, an 80mm straight Tamiya section, an endcap with shelves, three large brush holders, two small ones, maybe some other bits and the whole thing will click together into one solid unit. All available in your choice of colour :)

Trying to keep the price down, and shipping will be a bitch, but hopefully this will all be up on my Etsy store in a week or two once I have the final fit and finish done, and can print enough samples for photography.

If anyone here is down to get a set, hit me up and I'll print your requested set for my sample pics at my cost. Trying not to pimp my stuff *too much* but I am trying to make a product worth buying :)

Two Headed Calf
Feb 22, 2005

Better than One
Can anyone recommend any good viking style heads? I'm thinking of converting some untamed beasts to be marauders (how old is that kit anyway?) for my StD army.

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.

Phi230 posted:

What if I want the teeth to be yellowed, like dirty teeth? Do I do a sepia wash in them? Or a sepia glaze?

Yeah sepia wash sounds good, or you could start with a yellowish-white base before washing brownish or sepia. Or a glaze, I dunno man, get wild :)

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib

Phi230 posted:

So I should use glaze medium to glaze?

Quick note to add: Matte medium has particles (typically talc) that help give it a duller, more naturalistic look. When used with normal amounts of pigment, you don't really notice it. However, if your'e thinning down the paint with it, it will eventually become more noticeable. Not so much with normal thinning (I thin with a half-and-half matte medium and water gloop), but when you start getting into glazes, you might have problems. Glazing medium doesn't have those particles, so will just give you the look of the paint. It might have a slightly more gloss finish, but when you hit it with matte sealer that will go away.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Michaels was having a sale so I picked up some daler rowney inks, specifically white, black and burnt umber. I’ve always stayed away from inks because my first impression of them was when I used the games workshop inks way back in the day. They were incredibly glossy and didn’t seem to adhere too well to other paints, so I avoided inks because of that.

These inks however are incredible. They’re like the most incredibly smooth, creamy paints you can imagine. They’re extremely well pigmented, and have awesome coverage. They’re my go-to now for blending, and I’m excited to try more colors. A good tip is mixing an ink with a similarly colored paint to get the best of both worlds, especially if you’re looking for good coverage. For $7/30mls they’re a great deal and more people should get them.

Cool Dad
Jun 15, 2007

It is always Friday night, motherfuckers

Verisimilidude posted:

Michaels was having a sale so I picked up some daler rowney inks, specifically white, black and burnt umber. I’ve always stayed away from inks because my first impression of them was when I used the games workshop inks way back in the day. They were incredibly glossy and didn’t seem to adhere too well to other paints, so I avoided inks because of that.

These inks however are incredible. They’re like the most incredibly smooth, creamy paints you can imagine. They’re extremely well pigmented, and have awesome coverage. They’re my go-to now for blending, and I’m excited to try more colors. A good tip is mixing an ink with a similarly colored paint to get the best of both worlds, especially if you’re looking for good coverage. For $7/30mls they’re a great deal and more people should get them.

I've been using inks for a while to make washes, but I got into airbrushing them recently. Last weekend Michael's had a buy two get one free sale coupled with a $20 off coupon on a $50 purchase, so I ended up buying like 9 inks for 30 dollars, which rules.

One nice thing about inks is that most of them are semi-translucent, so zenithal highlighting shows through. I'm pretty much all in on ink basecoats now.

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang

Phi230 posted:

What if I want the teeth to be yellowed, like dirty teeth? Do I do a sepia wash in them? Or a sepia glaze?

Use Balor brown as a base color, it works very well for this.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:

I've been using inks for a while to make washes, but I got into airbrushing them recently. Last weekend Michael's had a buy two get one free sale coupled with a $20 off coupon on a $50 purchase, so I ended up buying like 9 inks for 30 dollars, which rules.

One nice thing about inks is that most of them are semi-translucent, so zenithal highlighting shows through. I'm pretty much all in on ink basecoats now.

What do you use to make washes? I'm currently using glaze medium from Liquitex but it's fairly glossy.

Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

Speaking of, an AC Moore near my is closing down so everything in it is on sale. Is there anything I should be looking for? Besides the basics like paint and brushes I’m not sure what else is useful for mini painting. I saw stuff like matte medium and liquitex products there.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Airbrushes, compressors, mod podge, plastic cement, and plastic card would be good finds.

Punkinhead
Apr 2, 2015

Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:

Speaking of, an AC Moore near my is closing down so everything in it is on sale. Is there anything I should be looking for? Besides the basics like paint and brushes I’m not sure what else is useful for mini painting. I saw stuff like matte medium and liquitex products there.

If you're into making terrain then don't forget stuff like foamcore boards, balsa wood strips, pine bark, metal wire, x-acto and razor blades, and in some arts and crafts stores they even have Woodland Scenics products like big shaker containers full of flock or sand.

Cool Dad
Jun 15, 2007

It is always Friday night, motherfuckers

Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:

Speaking of, an AC Moore near my is closing down so everything in it is on sale. Is there anything I should be looking for? Besides the basics like paint and brushes I’m not sure what else is useful for mini painting. I saw stuff like matte medium and liquitex products there.

At mine all the good liquitex stuff was cleared out, but I snagged a spare needle for my Patriot. AC Moore stocked Badger products, so you can get some nice airbrushes there if they have them left.

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib
Crossposting from the 40K thread.

JackMann posted:

Striding across the battlefield and ready to punch face, my redemptor dread is finally complete!



I wanted to go for something a little more interesting on the basing with this guy. I noticed while building the model that the legs and feet seemed fairly poseable, down to being able to bend the toes downward around something.



I had one of the Space Marine Heroes terminators. I chaosified him up and cut him down to have him driven down into the mud.



To make a scene around the two, I got some scenic stuff meant for Bolt Action. Barbed wire, sandbags, all sorts of fun bits to play with.



Someone earlier in the thread suggested putting some barbed wire around the dread's leg as though it had walked through a line of it, and I think it really helped sell the feeling of motion.



I even had a minefield sign up. It wasn't meant to lie broken on the field, but, well, things happen in the heat of war (and model building).



And of course the terminator had to be Emperor's Children. I perhaps could have gone brighter on the armor, but I didn't want to go so bright that it drew attention away from the dreadnought, so I went slightly more subdued. I also painted up a chaos terminator helmet for him, but apparently it didn't stay glued onto the base. I'm hoping I eventually find it, but the odds aren't great, given the clutter in my hobby room.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with how this came out. He and the grav captain I posted earlier will serve as the centerpieces of my army. I probably won't go quite so all-in on any of the remaining parts of my army, so they're going to have to do the heavy lifting when people see my plastic space barbies.

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R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013
The water finally dried on this broodlord:

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