|
shortspecialbus posted:My wife's 2013 Mazda3 could only be reprogrammed by the dealer, and it cost a fuckton. She lost one key and the other one got run over and exploded when she accidentally drove off with it on top of the car so we needed two new keys plus reprogramming and it came out to some absurd price. As far as I know there wasn't really even anything you could buy to do it yourself. I think I paid $360 to get my smartcard key cut and programmed at the local Mazda dealer and that was on top of the cost of the key itself. I won't miss the silly expenses of this platform.
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 16:01
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 14:20 |
|
|
Rhyno posted:I think I paid $360 to get my smartcard key cut and programmed at the local Mazda dealer and that was on top of the cost of the key itself. I won't miss the silly expenses of this platform. Yeah I love the keyless stuff where I never have to take the key out of my pocket but they need to make them programmable by people that aren't the dealership.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 18:00
|
|
|
shortspecialbus posted:Yeah I love the keyless stuff where I never have to take the key out of my pocket but they need to make them programmable by people that aren't the dealership. If you have two functional smart keys you can program additional ones. But there were horror stories about something going wrong and having to go back to Mazda to have the key re paired to the car so I never bothered. My smart card has been broken for about two years anyways.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 18:05
|
|
|
Shaocaholica posted:Well it turns out I need a ODBII tool to reprogram keys on a Honda. Plus it seems theres a function to check how many paired keys exist as well. Hit up a Batteries Plus near you if you have one- we started cutting and programming keys last year and can usually check how many keys are programmed. If it was my store, I'd check for free. Clearing out all the other keys is possible as well, but there's gonna be a fee for that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 18:43
|
|
|
My sister recently purchased a 2012 Prius. She left the headlights on when she parked it at school (I did not know that this was possible - figured the headlights would turn themselves off) and killed the battery that 'starts' the car. I arrived to jump it & found that there was not enough juice to operate the door-lock servos. I was able to pull the key out of the fob (she did not know it was there) & unlock the sole lock on the car at the driver's door. After confirming the battery location (in the right-rear of the cargo area), we faced another problem: opening the hatch to get to it. Fortunately, the hatch latch has an oh-poo poo handle on the inside, so she was able to low-crawl back there & open it. I was surprised that there is a) no manual release for the rear hatch; b) no way to connect to the drive batteries for emergency power.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:17
|
|
|
Having dealt with pretty much exactly that scenario for a friend - yep, it's a total pain it the dick all around. You've got all kinds of power right there in the HV pack, but no ability to force the step-down converter to come on without a good 12V battery first.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:29
|
|
|
It doesn't have jump points under the hood? edit: on the older ones there is a positive terminal by the fuses and relays under the hood. Then you clip negative to a nearby ground, like the top strut mount. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jan 22, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:35
|
|
|
Looks like it does but at least the one time I had to deal with this, the car was parked nose-in in a very crowded parking lot.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:37
|
|
|
Charles posted:It doesn't have jump points under the hood? No, it does not. That was the first place I looked. And looked. And looked. Then, we went to the owner's manual. It described jumping from the rear. e: I saw a piece of copper by the underhood fuse box but boy howdy, I wasn't loading a bunch of amps on it. It wasn't marked for jumping, and visions of electrical fire danced in my head. e2: goddamnit, the thing I saw was a positive jump lug! gently caress! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Jan 22, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:37
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Having dealt with pretty much exactly that scenario for a friend - yep, it's a total pain it the dick all around. You've got all kinds of power right there in the HV pack, but no ability to force the step-down converter to come on without a good 12V battery first. Tesla used to do that on its earlier models and switched to a 12V lead acid for aux systems so there's obviously a good reason. I'm sure you don't want a power leak depleting the main battery but there are ways to prevent that while still using the main power to for aux so 
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:38
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Looks like it does but at least the one time I had to deal with this, the car was parked nose-in in a very crowded parking lot.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:46
|
|
|
shortspecialbus posted:Yeah I love the keyless stuff where I never have to take the key out of my pocket but they need to make them programmable by people that aren't the dealership. I feel some of that is going to be security through obscurity.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:47
|
|
|
Krakkles posted:They shouldn't even sell jumper cables less than 25ft in length. While she was wrestling her way in search of an interior release (she's 5'10 & 150lbs) I was calculating whether or not mine would reach & how close I could nose in my Rogue before I hit the open door. The problems you can't anticipate during a simple jump.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:48
|
|
|
It's ironic I got a lithium battery pack jumper so I put the jumper cables in my wifes car. Well when I needed to use the battery pack the last time it was dead because I forgot to charge it so I really did still need the cables. Just always have cables.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 19:53
|
|
|
Shaocaholica posted:It's ironic I got a lithium battery pack jumper so I put the jumper cables in my wifes car. Well when I needed to use the battery pack the last time it was dead because I forgot to charge it so I really did still need the cables. Just always have cables. Yep. I have a set of Michelin-branded "smart" cables (they don't seem to be made anymore) that have a brain box in the middle so you don't need to worry about polarity or connection order. Pretty much the only case it won't work for is if the car receiving the jump is truly at 0V. One of these days I'm going to recable my TJ's winch with a big Anderson powerpole connector right there in the grille, and have a set of jumper cables that can plug into that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 20:01
|
|
|
A bit of a stretch question here: has anyone ever bought out a lease and then turned around and sold it to a third party and avoided paying sales tax on the lease buyout, in California? My understanding is that if you sell the car within 10 days of the buyout, it's considered for resale and that you therefore don't need to pay sales tax on the lease buyout, but the lessor payoff quote doesn't really give the option of not paying the tax with the buyout. I thought I'd just avoid the whole thing by just selling directly to a dealer and having them pay off the lease, but their payoff quote is about $1500 more than mine, so I'm not going to go that route, and it'd be nice to save another few hundred bucks. If it's not possible or I've been misled, then it's not a big deal, but figured I'd give it a shot.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 20:49
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:No, it does not. That was the first place I looked. And looked. Haha join the millenials and search YouTube first. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qgdGG0T9ONI This guy just used the jump terminal to get enough juice to pop the trunk instead of starting that way directly. He also has super long cables though!
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 23:36
|
|
|
This is a cross-post from the JDM import thread...is it possible to visually inspect a timing belt for wear? If it's nice and clean and not frayed, is it safe to leave? Or do timing belts just go from "looking good" to "dead" in the blink of an eye? Because I think I won't know for sure how many miles are on my camper's belt when I get it unless that sticker is on the timing belt cover.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2020 23:52
|
|
|
French Canadian posted:is it possible to visually inspect a timing belt for wear? No. The end.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 02:21
|
|
|
French Canadian posted:...is it possible to visually inspect a timing belt for wear? Well, yes, but you have to remove it first, so GAHHH MOTRONIC
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 02:35
|
|
|
Motronic posted:No. The end. But if you have the belt in your hands and looking at it all  you just throw it in the trash and replace it with a new belt!
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 03:50
|
|
|
I thought it's possible to remove an upper cover just to look at it...I guess not?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 04:38
|
|
|
French Canadian posted:I thought it's possible to remove an upper cover just to look at it...I guess not? Probably but then you don't get to see the important part of the belt, the side with the teeth.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 04:48
|
|
|
You need to closely inspect the toothed side, which you can't really do without removing the belt. At that point you've done 75% of the labor of the replacement, you're just a parts canon with a belt, tensioner, and water pump away from finishing the job.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 04:54
|
|
|
If it’s an interference engine just replace it for peace of mind. If it’s not, no big deal if it snaps.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 05:55
|
|
|
Even if its not an interference engine, if you don't know, just replace that poo poo. How many miles are on vehicle?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 12:31
|
|
|
Even if a timing belt looks fine, doesn't mean it is fine.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 12:48
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
wesleywillis posted:Even if its not an interference engine, if you don't know, just replace that poo poo. 93,000. It's also 25 years old so I don't know how long it's been sitting. But yeah if I can't inspect it with mostly disassembling the front bits anyway, then indeed I'd replace it (and the pulleys and pump).
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 15:02
|
|
|
These guys are all full of poo poo. Hit that fucker with some anti-squeal spray and you're golden.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 16:23
|
|
|
French Canadian posted:93,000. It's also 25 years old so I don't know how long it's been sitting. Even if you can look at it, you have no idea how long it's been sitting. Which means it could look absolutely fine and then stat shredding the first time you get it up to temperature. You just can't accurately discern dry/rotting rubber in belt compositions like that unless it's REALLY bad. So yes, looking at it can indeed tell you if it's bad or not. But it can't tell you if it's good. I've changed enough belts that have broken to have seen what LOOKED like a good belts except for that spot right there where it started to shred and then snapped.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2020 16:31
|
|
|
I did 2 cambelt changes this summer, and both looked fine. No way in hell I'd keep using them though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2020 10:02
|
|
|
When I was in highschool auto shop class we had a car come in, the timing belt was fine on the outside, but missing teeth on the inside. We finally noticed when we tried to crank it but the E: Rotor inside teh distributor.....
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2020 12:32
|
|
|
Took van to mechanic for poo poo power + mpg, among the issues we located and fixed was a failed open* EGR valve. It was his conclusion that I can either replace the EGR valve ($45 + rockauto shipping) or permanently plug that hole, at a cost of failing future smog checks** The EGR hole is currently plugged by a rectangle of soda can, which he informs me will last "a while" and can be replaced*** with steel for a more permanent fix - I would like to fabricate this cover plate sooner than later, which is the question**** bringing me to the thread today: what is the best way to go about reversibly perma-plugging that EGR hole? My basic idea is to take some 1/8"++ ish steel - the thinnest/least work to deal with that's thick ENOUGH, whatever random rear end scrap is in my stepdad's deathtrap wood shop - cut to the shape of the EGR gasket, drill the bolt holes in it, and screw the thing back on over it for extra stiffness - so engine - gasket - plate - egr - bolts. If I want to get fancy later and make another one from thicker/stiffer plate, find bolts to match the new thread depth, and toss the dead valve body thing, I can, but for right now  I just want to make this fix permanent.* The way in which it failed open is that (as described to me, I didn't see it) the metal plunger thing that is supposed to be there to plug the hole is just literally gone, so it's either on the freeway somewhere in the pacific northwest, or it's forever entombed in my muffler, which is the less relevant problem as compared to the open hole between my exhaust and engine bay ** which will not have to be performed on this vehicle at any point in the future unless state laws change or I make the decision to move - at which point replacing that valve will be way less of a problem than putting a cat in it, among other horrors *** Among the reasons this guy (actual mechanic who has a shop and works for dollars) will help diagnose my bullshit for beer amounts of money is that I can handle most of the actual patch work like this rather than taking up more of his time once he finds the problem **** Alternatively, if you think my mechanic is full of poo poo and I should replace the EGR thing, convince me, I just have no reason to believe he's not correct. Dude put a piece of soda can in my engine and it's like it's a v8 again, holy shiiiiit Javid fucked around with this message at 08:56 on Jan 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 08:52
|
|
|
There are EGR block off plates. Check Jegs and Summit. If your car is subject to emissions inspection fix the valve.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 14:05
|
|
|
Will it light up the CEL on your vehicle?
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 14:33
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Will it light up the CEL on your vehicle? I'm pretty sure it's pre-OBD2 and even if it's not, a lack of a cat means that light should be perma-on anyway. Which side of the EGR are you blocking off, the exhaust side or the intake side? Exhaust-side, 1/8 should be more than enough.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 15:54
|
|
|
How does compatibility work with car batteries? It's the first time I'm buying one and a couple of sites are claiming to filter for my car but returning batteries with exact opposite poles to each other. Not helped by some sites only having front views of the battery so I can't tell whether the poles are towards the front or back. What are the criteria I need to look at to make sure it's compatible?
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 19:38
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:How does compatibility work with car batteries? It's the first time I'm buying one and a couple of sites are claiming to filter for my car but returning batteries with exact opposite poles to each other. Not helped by some sites only having front views of the battery so I can't tell whether the poles are towards the front or back. Group number should be adequate. What is said vehicle? edit: Don't rely much on stock photos of batteries. One of those you'll know real quick moments when you swap it out. As in, if you have it backwards the terminals won't get close to reaching across. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jan 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 19:41
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Group number should be adequate. What is said vehicle? 2004 Civic, the "EP3" type. Edit: This is apparently the OEM one: https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine-honda-civic-2-0-type-r-petrol-battery-2001-2005/ Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Jan 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 19:44
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 14:20 |
|
|
Gotcha, Honda experts will need to chime in given location. You might get free health care across the pond, but my god I can get 20% off on a car battery.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2020 19:58
|
|