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Crossposting from the AoS threadThe Deleter posted:
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Jan 28, 2020 16:53
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If you go for micro sol/set be aware you have to factor in the breakage because those bottles just love to fall over.
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Jan 28, 2020 18:10
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Sultan Tarquin posted:If you go for micro sol/set be aware you have to factor in the breakage because those bottles just love to fall over. This is legitimately such a problem that it's been cheaper for me to pay more money per bottle for Tamiya or Mr. Hobby, because I actually get to use what I buy instead of dumping most of it over my work table. If you can't get anything in a broad, heavy jar, definitely consider mounting your Microsol/set bottles to something really hard to tip over.
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Jan 28, 2020 18:25
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I don't know how posters in this thread knock so many bottles over. Y'all need to start to hot glue pennies to the bottom of everything and wear mittens.
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Jan 28, 2020 19:02
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I've always had success by either closing bottles as I use them, or keeping open ones away from me
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Jan 28, 2020 19:10
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I have silly putty on the table I push pots down into before opening if I'm painting out of them. It doesn't stick and my shitpig cat can't knock them over when he decides it's cuddle time.
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Jan 28, 2020 19:15
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Buy some InstaMorph and make a little base, like this dumb Citadel pot holder I made
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Jan 28, 2020 19:24
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Funzo posted:This might go better in the photography forum, but I have an older Nikon camera I don't really use, and I was thinking of just setting it up to take pictures of minis and models. For the DSLR users, is there a good but cheap lens I should find? You could snag a cheap used / refurbished kit lens for like $50 on eBay. Look for an "AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm." Solid lens with built-in vibration reduction, which you're gonna want if you aren't shooting off of a tripod. Incidentally, you're probably going to realize pretty quickly that you want a tripod.
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Jan 28, 2020 20:24
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:You could snag a cheap used / refurbished kit lens for like $50 on eBay. Look for an "AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm." Solid lens with built-in vibration reduction, which you're gonna want if you aren't shooting off of a tripod. Incidentally, you're probably going to realize pretty quickly that you want a tripod. That's actually the lens I have now. I just assumed people were using something a little more specialized. It's more likely I'm just bad at using the camera.
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Jan 28, 2020 21:25
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Making progress on my modular paint rack system! https://www.facebook.com/105067340992500/posts/126011418898092/ TKIY fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 23:09
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Oh nice, I wouldn't have said not to a couple of those since my Hobby Zone shelf is pretty much full and I have not enough space for another one anyway. Shame I think the shipping would be murder for me across the pond.
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Jan 28, 2020 23:29
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Cooked Auto posted:Oh nice, I wouldn't have said not to a couple of those since my Hobby Zone shelf is pretty much full and I have not enough space for another one anyway. Yeah they are really light, but bulky. Not sure what the shipping will look like. Part of dealing with Etsy is that they won't promote you unless you do free shipping on orders over $35 though, not sure if that applies overseas though.
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Jan 28, 2020 23:35
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I went to bed last night frustrated at the quality of my Death Guard test marine and I was planning on stripping it to start over today. I'm glad I slept on it because I woke up today and hit it with a few changes and now I love it as an easily repeatable, tabletop quality scheme. Now I just need to figure out the basing... Related note, nobody warned me Stirland Mud was gonna take literally all day to dry
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Jan 28, 2020 23:43
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Funzo posted:That's actually the lens I have now. I just assumed people were using something a little more specialized. It's more likely I'm just bad at using the camera. It's not the greatest lens in the world or anything but the ceiling on a good sharp photo is definitely going to be the user before it's the lens. If you want an absolute bare-bones setup for good shots, I'd say all you really need is a cheap $15 lightbox and any half-decent tripod. Look into some tutorials on settings for the camera, but you don't need to get super fancy with manual settings or anything - I usually just set it to aperture mode so I can control the depth of field, then set the max ISO to 100 (or as low as your camera will let you set it), then slap it on a tripod and put a 2-second timer on it so that me pressing the button doesn't introduce any vibration into the picture. A tripod and decent lighting is going to improve your photos tenfold even if you do absolutely nothing else.
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Jan 29, 2020 01:23
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Is there a website that just has an impressively large selection of minis that I can filter by base size, and ideally genre (sci-fi, fantasy etc)? I sold all my minis over a year ago but now I'm getting the urge to paint again but I can't find anything that really captures my interest looking over GW products. e; Basically just looking for random cool rear end models in the 50-70mm base size range Sab669 fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jan 29, 2020 |
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Jan 29, 2020 02:46
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Sab669 posted:Is there a website that just has an impressively large selection of minis that I can filter by base size, and ideally genre (sci-fi, fantasy etc)?
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Jan 29, 2020 02:51
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Ooo I forgot about Reaper, yea their site is decent. No size filter though  but definitely a good range. Although I suppose sorting by Price works well enough.
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Jan 29, 2020 03:05
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Just to add to the pile: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pFcTb2lJWw
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Jan 29, 2020 06:23
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I still have some Gesso left over from that craze which swept the forums a few years back. Has anyone experimented with using gesso on 3d-printed models? I'm wondering if the same detail-obscuring properties might be of great benefit on reducing the visual impact of layer lines.
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Jan 29, 2020 09:01
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Gesso is great for covering the lines. Coat, sand down, coat and sand.
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Jan 29, 2020 11:17
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Just some more Genestealers:
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Jan 29, 2020 12:57
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TKIY posted:Making progress on my modular paint rack system! These look cool. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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Jan 29, 2020 15:12
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Do any of y'all know a good source for 28mm servo arms? I want to turn those flagellents into servitors.
Eifert Posting fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jan 29, 2020 |
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Jan 29, 2020 16:54
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Eifert Posting posted:2imm servo arms
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Jan 29, 2020 17:50
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Seldom Posts posted:These look cool. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Working on it, hopefully all ready by the weekend. The little business is taking off and I have some general printing contracts for some local businesses burning up my spare time. Also had to order another printer to keep up with demand so I have to assemble that this weekend :/
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Jan 29, 2020 19:08
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BULBASAUR posted:Thanks man! Yep. Dark Mech. I'm going to take some proper pictures in the coming weeks Did you print those dark eldar reaver helmets yourself? What bits are those plastic torsos with the vials/cylinders coming out the back? Incredible project my friend!
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Jan 29, 2020 19:17
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Did you print those dark eldar reaver helmets yourself? Cheers! It's been a great project and something different from my crows. The torsos are a mix of dark eldar scourge backpacks and the skitarii kit. Those heads were 3D printed from shapeways in their highest quality. Honestly, I'm a bit disappointed. Its my first time working with 3D printed bits and the level of detail still isn't good enough for me. The raised edges are the issue. Even at the finest quality painting using washes or glazes is an absolute chore. Sanding to remove them can remove detail and is next to impossible to do everywhere. Hopefully it gets better in the future.
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Jan 29, 2020 22:41
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Another mini done, the Scoundrel from Gloomhaven!    I thought maybe the photos would look better if they were smaller? But I think I made them too small lol. Anyway, I think this mini came out great! I'm very happy with it. The only thing I don't really love with the face. I'm still having trouble getting the fine details of faces right. Eyes really scare me, fortunately this thief here is wearing a green mask. Also skin color is a little tough, I feel like it often comes out pale white or super tan. The base is cool too I think, the water is a new thing I tried just to see how it looks. Didn't want to use too much in case it looked bad.
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Jan 30, 2020 01:05
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I think that mini looks cool! Looks like your lighting is yellow probably just your overhead standard sorta bulbs, try natural light if you can and it should help the pictures pop better (open that window and take em over there).
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Jan 30, 2020 01:18
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As for tipping bottles over, I just use blue sticky tack and stick them to my desk.
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Jan 30, 2020 01:24
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xpost ferm 30k thread.Major Spag posted:Poastin boiz from LVO:
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Jan 30, 2020 04:55
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Done with the Kaptin's body. Don't think I have enough time to finish the head tonight but I can knock it out real fast! Almost there!!  I think this is my best paintjob yet. Its far, FAR from perfect, but overall its pretty detailed, good color scheme, some layers and highlights. I had painted him a nice dark maroon / cherry red originally, and I kinda regret doing the red layers because it brightened it up a bit too much, but oh well. Also, phone camera is poo poo so IRL the color balance looks a bit different and better.
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Jan 30, 2020 05:01
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I finished my converted Tzeentch Cultists   Album: https://imgur.com/gallery/V100gwG
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Jan 30, 2020 05:50
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Two Headed Calf posted:I finished my converted Tzeentch Cultists House Skeksis
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Jan 30, 2020 05:51
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My painting of the 21st Portuguese Infantry Regiment continues. Got some more colours in, only 4 more base colours to go. Eureka Miniatures AB British Peninsula figures. When/If I build a full Portuguese division I'll buy the correct Portuguese figures. This brigade will be in a British division. Citadel Base paints using a Citadel Small Base brush, cleaned in a Citadel water pot and the brush conditioning with conditioner. Bases are magnetic ones from Olympic Games. After painting 1/2 of it by just blue tacking them one by one to the Citadel Stand holder, I suddenly thought last night I can use the bases I already have. This made painting the figures 10 times easier. View at table distance. You can just see Blue and Yellow.  Closer in.  This is the command group. I leave them till last, but it doesn't help much.  The light troopers and Infantry.  Citadel paints used so far. You can see the last ones to do in the other pictures. I really need a light blue (or should have mixed the blue and white) for the water bottles and a better white for the straps.  I can't see having ANOTHER 10 UNITS ready by March! ;(
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Jan 30, 2020 13:00
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so i painted a few smol boys and got questions these were sent fully assembled in a random crate by warpfire minis. in the interim i bought 20 more of these boys in their retail boxes on sprues. i havent played wh ever but my understanding is space marines are one of the most basic units to field. the backpacks, crotch and insides of the arms are almost impossible to paint (panel lining and skulls and aquilae or whatever). is it even worth it to make subassemblies for these lads? also i have magnets and had an idea to magnetize the boys so i could swap weapons, but the pauldrons are separate from the arms/weapons with piece counts that dont correspond. is the ability to swap out weapons on cannon fodder units even practical?
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Jan 30, 2020 15:16
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I use subassembly a lot. too lazy to drill and pin so i just superglue a bit of sprue to a bit of the arm/wheel/whatever that doesn’t need painted, then snip it off when im done and file it smooth again.
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Jan 30, 2020 15:19
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also im skeevy about drilling since vince venturella told a story about his pin vise slipping and going so deep into his thumb it touched the thumb nail from the inside 
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Jan 30, 2020 15:21
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jesus WEP posted:I use subassembly a lot. too lazy to drill and pin so i just superglue a bit of sprue to a bit of the arm/wheel/whatever that doesn’t need painted, then snip it off when im done and file it smooth again. That's how I usually do things. It's only really messed me over a couple of times where the superglue has gotten the stuff a bit too mushy but that's usually not an absolute disaster. Barring the time I assembled Naeve perhaps. Although I tend to just slide my exacto knife in the slight gap and break the joint there since that's going to be the place I glue them together anyway. I drill occasionally but just enough so I can stick a piece of a paperclip into there to hold it in place. This was my set up for when I painted the Dominus: 
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Jan 30, 2020 15:28
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jesus WEP posted:also im skeevy about drilling since vince venturella told a story about his pin vise slipping and going so deep into his thumb it touched the thumb nail from the inside I drilled a 1/8" through the center of my thumbnail while magnetizing a metal model. It was a 9.5 on the pain scale. Never again. Never use a drill for pinning or magnetizing. Get a $10-20 cordless power screwdriver and a 1/4" adjustable drill chuck for like 8 bucks on Amazon. Now you have something that will do delicate model work and not leave you with hobby PTSD.
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Jan 30, 2020 15:38
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