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shame on an IGA posted:Pick up some out-of-date AutoCAD and inventor textbooks from amazon or ebay for like $5, ignore the text and sketch/model the practice exercises until all the snaps and constraints are instinct. AutoCAD Tutor for Engineering Graphics older than 2012 and Madsen's Engineering Drawing and Design 3rd or 4th edition are good for this, and again, very cheap for older versions +1 all of this (although I'd say to check libgen for CAD textbooks first, save yourself the money and shelf space). Especially the bit about developing parametric workflows, it's critical to working efficiently and producing resilient/adaptive designs that "respect your design intent" through revisions and retroactive alterations. The hallmark of a rookie designer is a part that looks right, and is modelled to spec, but which breaks immediately/fails to update properly once you begin altering critical dimensions or revising your layout sketches. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Jan 19, 2020 |
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Jan 19, 2020 20:46
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SolidWorks, at least for me, was infinitely more user friendly and intuitive than any AutoCAD product I've ever used. I'm pretty much self taught and consider myself Pretty Good (certified up to Professional, not that that means much).
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Jan 19, 2020 23:59
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AutoCAD is hot burning garbage and literally the only reason to use it is if your company has a bunch of ancient plans that have not yet been rebuilt in a better format. And even then the best use is to have an intern go through and convert all the plans to something modern like Revit. Autodesk products in general, other than AutoCAD, are usually fine. Fusion 360 is a nice sort of SolidWorks-lite that's free for hobbyists and freelancers. It's still not up to SolidWorks' capability (and certainly has nowhere near the industry penetration) but it's a great starting point.
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Jan 20, 2020 00:14
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Motronic posted:This series of videos got me started: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5bc9c3S12g Thanks everyone! Started with this video and actually started laughing at the part where you drag the 'cut' operation later in the timeline to intersect with more geometry. That's pretty dang cool. Also using books for exercises seems like a really smart idea for practice.
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Jan 20, 2020 22:53
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There's going to be no one size fits all answer to this, but if you were to estimate, when buying a machining tool for the first time, like a hobbyist lathe or mill, what additional percentage of the unit price do you usually need to spend to actually get up to speed with decent gear? Another 50%? 100%? Like if you bought a $1k mill would you wind up spending another $500 on fixes, tools, indicators, plates, blocks, parallels, etc?
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Jan 22, 2020 01:13
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Jaded Burnout posted:There's going to be no one size fits all answer to this, but if you were to estimate, when buying a machining tool for the first time, like a hobbyist lathe or mill, what additional percentage of the unit price do you usually need to spend to actually get up to speed with decent gear? Another 50%? 100%? Tooling is expensive. When you're starting from zero, yeah.....at least $500 for even the things you need to do small stuff is realistic. It just goes up from there. I mean, you get a lathe and the firsts thing you realize is you have no good way to cut stock you you're looking for a horizontal band pretty immediately. Then you decide you want a quick change tool post. Then you want to run HSS but don't have a grinder so you need to buy one of those............Oh poo poo, I need a new set of calipers. And some squirty cans would be really convenient for lube. If I just had a 4 jaw chuck for this thing I bet I could.........oh wait, I need a collet holder too.
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Jan 22, 2020 01:25
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Alright so they're like Ferraris and fixer upper houses; don't buy one unless you've budgeted for two.
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Jan 22, 2020 01:34
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more like the ferrari, imo, in that you need to budget for two and also have a dedicated climate-controlled place to put it that's on ground level and is not in the living area of your house
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Jan 22, 2020 01:46
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It depends if you want all the possible uses or have a specific goal. You can effectively budget for a very specific task. I want to make exhaust flanges for a mill. Or I want to make my own bushings for a lathe. Everything else will be a happy money sink. The other projects that pop up later can be weighed with cost to tool up vs off the shelf. I can just buy the parts for x, I'll need y to make them myself. If it's close you buy the tools and it's almost free the next time. Projects for friends will often come down to buy material and the stuff I need, no labor, I keep the tools.
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Jan 22, 2020 03:32
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Slowly amassing the tools required is what I am doing. I didn't get much tooling with my mill, no vise, a few horizontal arbors, some collets in large sizes and an ER-32 collet holder with one 15/16 collet. No end mills or anything. Got myself some cheap chinese carbide tooling to start off with, and a metric ER-32 collet set to hold the end mills, and I got a cheap vise of the type Stefan Gotteswinters has been using for years on his mill. Always looking out for 2nd hand tooling too.
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Jan 22, 2020 05:26
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Mill: infinity dollars Lathe: buy a bench grinder at the same time 
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Jan 22, 2020 05:48
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honda whisperer posted:It depends if you want all the possible uses or have a specific goal. The only reason I'm considering it (and the reason I probably won't do it) is that I really like having the ability to make whatever I want exactly how I want it. I'm getting pretty close to that with wood, though I'll probs never get a wood lathe because I've no interest in the things you can make on one, but I've very little capacity for working with metal. Being able to make lil steel/aluminium doodads and thingymabobs as needed is a whole pasture I've not yet entered. The sort of thing I might more cost-efficiently use a 3D printer for, were I not developing a revulsion for plastic. See also a lack of capacity for making simple steel woodworking tools like holdfasts, stuff where I could probably get away with a gas torch, hammer, and small anvil-like object.
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Jan 22, 2020 13:34
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Well I think a mill requires a lot more in the way of accessories to make stuff, but it is more versatile too. Still I have only had a lathe for years now and my mill isn't operational just yet. But I feel I get by with a lot fewer accessories on the lathe. I have not even started using my mill but I feel like I got a list a mile long worth of accessories that I need to acquire and keep a look out for. With a lathe you ideally want a 3 and 4 jaw chuck. That's all I got. Turning tools and inserts, you can get some pretty decent starting carbide kits from banggood and the like nowadays and then you can upgrade to better tools if you feel like it and as time goes on. HSS tools if you can get some cheap, but I've only found cheap chinese HSS and it's not very good, chinese carbide is better than chinese HSS. Good HSS seems to be drying up as it's falling out of favor. But now you are pretty much set up to start cutting on a lathe. A QCTP is a godsend but not required. drat glad my lathe came with a good QCTP system though... I identify with your reasoning a lot, including a revulsion for plastic.
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Jan 22, 2020 14:05
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Jaded Burnout posted:The only reason I'm considering it (and the reason I probably won't do it) is that I really like having the ability to make whatever I want exactly how I want it. I'm getting pretty close to that with wood, though I'll probs never get a wood lathe because I've no interest in the things you can make on one, but I've very little capacity for working with metal. You need a friend with a mill and a lathe.
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Jan 23, 2020 03:59
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Thanks again for the fusion tips. Got rolling on a thing I've wanted to do for ages which is make any sort of plan for rearranging the 'shop'. Copied the tablesaw in  Linked it into the shop 
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Jan 26, 2020 02:45
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If you're patient you just need a hacksaw, drill press, and wide array of files.
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Jan 26, 2020 03:23
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shame on an IGA posted:If you're patient you just need a hacksaw, drill press, and wide array of files.
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Jan 26, 2020 03:56
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I don't know if you guys saw it but Keith Fenner who does metal working stuff on youtube was asking for donations yesterday as he is being forced to move his business due to a divorce. He was aiming for $15,000 through GoFundme to put in 3 phase power and get the rest of the shop set up. Between it getting posted and right now he's close to $50K and he's going to be shutting down the donations. It's good to see that he'll be able to continue doing stuff and it also makes sense why he didn't put out too many video's last year.
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Jan 28, 2020 09:15
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Jaded Burnout posted:There's going to be no one size fits all answer to this, but if you were to estimate, when buying a machining tool for the first time, like a hobbyist lathe or mill, what additional percentage of the unit price do you usually need to spend to actually get up to speed with decent gear? Another 50%? 100%? for a knee mill like a bridgeport, If you are a thrifty and paitient shopper, you could beat these prices for precision quality stuff Bare minimum decent indicator $100 quill indicator holder $20 used kurt 6" vice (or similar) $2-400 clamping kit $50 collet set $50 1-2-3/ parrelles, $50 micrometer $100 calipers $50 dead blow hammer $20 HSS endmills and drill bits, $1-25 each for normal sizes, with things like 1/4" double ended end mill being less than $10 real nice fly cutter $30-$50 depending on beef c clamps $20 each need depend on work holing angle plate $2-600 for a real square one. drill chuck $100 or so bore head $100 ? make almost anything/life easier 5" sine plate $200 gauge blocks $100 trokey rotary table/ cross slide few hundred, lots of good ones used DRO $1000 horizontal band saw a few hundred bench grinder $100 I'm sure im missing stuff, but that's how i would think about it. rump buttman fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jan 28, 2020 |
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Jan 28, 2020 17:05
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I'd add a deburring tool ($15), file set ($60), and personally I like a belt deburrer ($300) over using a bench grinder. A few joh blocks ($5-$25) too, especially if you do anything that someone else might measure. A master for your micrometer could work in a pinch too, just to keep you honest. A magnetic indicator base can be really useful too. We picked up a super heavy Noga and, in addition to being able to beat someone to death with it, it is stout.
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Jan 28, 2020 18:37
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If we're doing machining tools to get for a mill, I got one that I dont find get mentioned a lot but drat I love this tool: Coaxial Indicator I forever find that I have a piece or a fixture that I need to make perpendicular to the spindle than pick up a hole on as a zero. This makes doing that lightning fast.
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Jan 28, 2020 19:09
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His Divine Shadow posted:Good HSS seems to be drying up as it's falling out of favor. I don't know if this is of any help, but HSS end mill I have from poland and israel cut really nice. We got a bunch ~2010. In the last year I bought some inexpensive HSS reamers from travelers(?) that were south korean and cut very nice. I'd bet on your assessment as a general trend though CarForumPoster posted:If we're doing machining tools to get for a mill, I got one that I dont find get mentioned a lot but drat I love this tool: Coaxial Indicator How much time do you save vs just using an indicator, center x, center y (for getting work concentric, or center of a circle), set dials to zero. rump buttman fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Jan 29, 2020 |
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Jan 29, 2020 00:49
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rump buttman posted:How much time do you save vs just using an indicator, center x, center y (for getting work concentric, or center of a circle), set dials to zero. I always spent a fair amount of time fidgeting with the indicator and holding it in different positions to get it where I wanted it. Coax in a collet let me do both flatness and find my datum feature without changing tools, or adjusting anything beyond the tip, which was very accommodating as it has way more travel than a jewel indicator.
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Jan 29, 2020 01:39
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:I don't know if you guys saw it but Keith Fenner who does metal working stuff on youtube was asking for donations yesterday as he is being forced to move his business due to a divorce. He was aiming for $15,000 through GoFundme to put in 3 phase power and get the rest of the shop set up. Between it getting posted and right now he's close to $50K and he's going to be shutting down the donations. It's good to see that he'll be able to continue doing stuff and it also makes sense why he didn't put out too many video's last year. Oh drat. I follow him and I saw some video titles about moving but didn't have time to watch. I try and watch a whole series if I watch one of his videos and haven't had the time in a while. I had no idea the move was under those circumstances.
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Jan 29, 2020 02:02
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Thinking back on my apprenticeship, I feel 60% of the utility of a DRO could be replicated by a simple rev counter on the handwheel
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Jan 29, 2020 02:59
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shame on an IGA posted:Thinking back on my apprenticeship, I feel 60% of the utility of a DRO could be replicated by a simple rev counter on the handwheel I agree. I learned without DRO, have made a bunch of poo poo without DRO. Having to double check your count sucks, but you honestly get pretty good at knowing what .200 looks like. I learned on this bridgeport and an XLO without DRO, but the bridgeport did have rev counter/more scales https://imgur.com/a/XBxBTee
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Jan 29, 2020 04:51
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:I don't know if you guys saw it but Keith Fenner who does metal working stuff on youtube was asking for donations yesterday as he is being forced to move his business due to a divorce. He was aiming for $15,000 through GoFundme to put in 3 phase power and get the rest of the shop set up. Between it getting posted and right now he's close to $50K and he's going to be shutting down the donations. It's good to see that he'll be able to continue doing stuff and it also makes sense why he didn't put out too many video's last year. On another forum this was posted: https://www.gofundme.com/f/devastated30yr-marriage-endsneed-for-attorneys It's for his wife, posted by their son. Me thinks there's some drama going on and we don't know the whole story. They need to go on judge judy.
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Jan 29, 2020 05:43
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His Divine Shadow posted:On another forum this was posted: Yeah that doesn't surprise me really. Divorces are messy business and you never know what both sides of the story are. It's made more difficult because Keith has the ability to present his side of the story to a fully public audience easily.
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Jan 29, 2020 09:28
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rump buttman posted:I agree. I learned without DRO, have made a bunch of poo poo without DRO. Having to double check your count sucks, but you honestly get pretty good at knowing what .200 looks like. 
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Jan 29, 2020 14:28
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XLOs own bones
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Jan 29, 2020 15:18
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rump buttman posted:XLOs own bones agreed
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Jan 29, 2020 15:24
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My metalworking is pretty much by hacksaw-and-file, so I don't know where this part with the chisel ranks on the ingenious-to-wtf scale: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yolsceCdjyc&t=1473s
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Jan 31, 2020 17:22
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Trabant posted:My metalworking is pretty much by hacksaw-and-file, so I don't know where this part with the chisel ranks on the ingenious-to-wtf scale: This one weird trick makes broachers hate him! I once watched a guy remove a water pump with a chisel so I guess this isn't too bad.
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Jan 31, 2020 18:20
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When it comes to aluminum and manual broaching, hard steel is hard steel.
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Jan 31, 2020 18:28
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Dude basically made a manual shaper. Nothing wrong with it, nothing genius, but a good recognition of tools at your disposal.
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Feb 1, 2020 17:00
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OK, thinking of weird stuff. So, I'm trying to get an automate-able flow control valve for my dynomometer project. I found some surplus v-port ball valves on ebay which are actually pretty ideally suited to flow control of water. But the valve control is a 7mm square post sticking up about 3/4". Things like this are pretty standard, but for some reason these valves are a weird size. What I want to do is have a 1/2" (or 9/16" or whatever) steel shaft of an arbitrary length to put a timing belt pulley on it. The little posts have a slight degree of chamfer on the corners but not much - milling a square hole that would fit would take a very small end mill to finish. I know about wobble broaches but that's a couple hundred buck investment - I'm not 100% opposed to that because wobble broaches are cool, but if I can put that off I'd prefer to. What other ways to get this done on the relatively-cheap am I overlooking?
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Feb 1, 2020 17:37
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File it out. It takes time, but if you've only got one, then go for it.
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Feb 1, 2020 17:42
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Karia posted:File it out. It takes time, but if you've only got one, then go for it. Thing I didn't specify - ideally looking for blind hole as I'd like to put a keyway for the drive pulley just a little bit further up the shaft. I mean, compromising on that and filing it is a thought though.
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Feb 1, 2020 17:52
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3D print some sort of adapter out of nylon.
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Feb 1, 2020 18:00
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I'd try drilling a hole in the shaft to fit the 7mm square and bed the square post in the blind hole with 5min epoxy first. If that failed, I'd do the same thing plus try and drill tangent pin holes that let dowel pins engage the square. You can probably fit 2-4 pins along the length and may not need bedding. I like bedding to lower the contact stress. Last option would be to drill and put a fastener through the valve boss. Or drill and tap the hole walls for screws to grip the boss.
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Feb 1, 2020 18:17
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