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Verisimilidude posted:Been painting a lot the past few days, so here's a dump of stuff I've painted! gently caress be running, these look really good. The lighting is just fantastic.
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Feb 1, 2020 15:33
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| # ? May 10, 2024 06:17 |
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21st Portuguese Infantry Regiment painting part 3 I finished base coats and covered it liberally with Nuln Oil. I might use some Blue wash over the uniforms to stand out better. I'm not very happy with them, though I got better as I went. I'm hoping the ARMY PAINTER brushes and paint work better instead of the Citadel stuff I've used for this Brigade.I will need to go and buy some turpentine for the ARMY PAINTER quickshade (Question - why don't they use the same sort of wash that GW does?) Just need to glue them to the bases and paint and flock the bases. And print out and attach flags. And Varnish. And buy, paint and base 11 more units  Table view  Front On of the Brigade  Grenadiers  Centre Company and Command Group  Light Company 
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Feb 1, 2020 15:50
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Comstar posted:(Question - why don't they use the same sort of wash that GW does?
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Feb 1, 2020 16:28
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Comstar posted:21st Portuguese Infantry Regiment painting part 3 Just as a warning, the coating on the brush handles can and will come off very easily.
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Feb 1, 2020 17:45
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Comstar posted:
Quickshades are basically wood stain, and their original marketing was based around doing a base coat then dipping a model in to get a quick finished look that's "OK" for doing hordes. The longer drying time of the wash let it be pulled around by gravity more. AP also sells normal acrylic washes.
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Feb 1, 2020 18:19
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Their acrylic washes are also called "Quickshade" so you might have the right stuff and you might not. If it comes in a tin, you don't want it.
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Feb 1, 2020 18:33
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I can't manage not to make my miniatures look drab as hell, even with some highlight and what's not. What am I doing wrong? 
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Feb 1, 2020 20:04
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Iceclaw posted:I can't manage not to make my miniatures look drab as hell, even with some highlight and what's not. What am I doing wrong? Some shading as well would probably help, like a wash with black tone and then reapply base and highlight a little. But ultimately medium grey is just a very drab color, maybe literally the most drab there is. e: To elaborate, the orange next to grey is basically a neon sign in terms of contrast, which can be totally fine but you also have that color on the base. If you repainted the bases to be just grey or black that would help a ton because right now they are distracting from the model itself. WorldIndustries fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Feb 1, 2020 |
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Feb 1, 2020 20:34
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ijyt posted:Automotive primer like Halfords grey works best for pewter models, but I’ve also found that Stynylrez is durable enough too. I’ve also found that Rustoleum x2 Flat primer works really well. I’ve had metal models that I’ve stripped and that primer refused to let go.
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Feb 1, 2020 20:46
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Iceclaw posted:I can't manage not to make my miniatures look drab as hell, even with some highlight and what's not. What am I doing wrong? I think it's a contrast problem. Your colors are pretty solid, but they don't feel like they have a real beginning or an end. It's most noticeable on the metal stuff, which is the hardest to handle:  Like, the gold, the silver and the leather kind of run together in a way you can't solve by highlighting. If you got some darkness between the different elements of the model it would make the transitions clearer and make the model a lot more readable. Here's a model I did earlier this year to explain:  Dividing up areas like that goes a long, long way to making a model pop. I did something similar at the elbows and the knees since they'd otherwise look like hot dogs. But because I could divide the white area up, it looks good, even though I didn't do poo poo to highlight - all I did was prime white and slap one thin coat down before picking up any other color.
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Feb 1, 2020 20:48
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Finished Grimgut and his Retchlings for the game Godtear. Very pleased with how they came out!
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Feb 1, 2020 22:17
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I decided to paint something special for my three year mini painting anniversary so I got one of those Spira Mirabilis busts. Pretty fun/interesting experience, it's extremely detailed but in a lot of ways it's kind of a blank canvas so I tried to leave a good bit of texture, since the scale is huge (about 65mm tall, so I guess the scale would be something like 150mm?) and it's a troll. I think I left some places a bit too brush strokey though, looking at the pictures. No idea how I'm going to base him.    If anyone else is looking to paint their first bust I'd actually suggest one that's just a bust, rather than the "entire torso and arms" style that seems to have become popular. Painting at a way bigger scale takes some getting used to and the face is the most interesting part to paint.
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Feb 2, 2020 01:48
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:Their acrylic washes are also called "Quickshade" so you might have the right stuff and you might not. If it comes in a tin, you don't want it. I have the tin- it came in the pack. Err...which one do I want exactly then? And does it work like the Citadel Washes?
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Feb 2, 2020 02:22
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Comstar posted:I have the tin- it came in the pack. Err...which one do I want exactly then? And does it work like the Citadel Washes? You want these, the ones that come in the dropper bottles. https://smile.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Warpaints-Quickshade-Wash/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=army+painter+washes&qid=1580611487&sr=8-4 They do work like the citadel washes, yeah.
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Feb 2, 2020 03:46
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The Moon Monster posted:I decided to paint something special for my three year mini painting anniversary so I got one of those Spira Mirabilis busts. Pretty fun/interesting experience, it's extremely detailed but in a lot of ways it's kind of a blank canvas so I tried to leave a good bit of texture, since the scale is huge (about 65mm tall, so I guess the scale would be something like 150mm?) and it's a troll. I think I left some places a bit too brush strokey though, looking at the pictures. No idea how I'm going to base him. gently caress yeah, I always wished there’d be more bust content in here, love the texture contrast between the mouse and the troll.
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Feb 2, 2020 04:18
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<----- this loser is upgrading to a airbrush finally!  Equipment ordered just now.
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Feb 2, 2020 05:25
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 Painted up some more Reaper kobold mooks. Have 6 more mooks to go that I want to paint in green, and then 4 more kobold command
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Feb 2, 2020 05:52
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ijyt posted:gently caress yeah, I always wished there’d be more bust content in here, love the texture contrast between the mouse and the troll. If you guys want busts, I've got stuff I can share. I've mainly posted them in the Scale Modeling thread, but I'd love to show them off here too. This was my latest, Mohawk from Gremlins 2. 
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Feb 2, 2020 05:53
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S'more.  
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Feb 2, 2020 06:10
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Crosspost from the 30k thread:Safety Factor posted:
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Feb 2, 2020 18:02
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Seekers complete 
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The Moon Monster posted:I decided to paint something special for my three year mini painting anniversary so I got one of those Spira Mirabilis busts. Pretty fun/interesting experience, it's extremely detailed but in a lot of ways it's kind of a blank canvas so I tried to leave a good bit of texture, since the scale is huge (about 65mm tall, so I guess the scale would be something like 150mm?) and it's a troll. I think I left some places a bit too brush strokey though, looking at the pictures. No idea how I'm going to base him. This is really nice. Nice work, man. I have a Hera Minis orc bust sitting on my painting desk and its intimidating as hell
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Feb 2, 2020 18:06
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Bloody Hedgehog those are great! The Mars Attacks! one is super fun.
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Feb 2, 2020 18:16
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I broke my months long painting slump with these: They're going to be used as scatter terrain on Zone Mortalis board so i wanted them to be suitably weathered
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Feb 2, 2020 18:29
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ijyt posted:Bloody Hedgehog those are great! The Mars Attacks! one is super fun.  The Mars Attacks one rules hard.
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Feb 2, 2020 19:13
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Painted up some of the new Chaos Knights      
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Feb 2, 2020 21:56
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Here's a big old Indelible Hunk I made a while back now. This one's a biggie, about 16" tall.
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Feb 2, 2020 22:22
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Finished up my first warband (bar a few highlights when i get some more paint), the Beastie Boys. Not the most vibrant color scheme but I got a lot of practice painting browns. Don't think the guy on the far right was meant to look like a mischievous gopher but that's how he ended up.
Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Feb 2, 2020 |
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Feb 2, 2020 22:29
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Painted my Han Solo from Legion. I still have a long way to go before I consider myself a good painter, but I can see progress.  
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Feb 2, 2020 22:39
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Just painted this feller. I was planning on a really meticulous paintjob for him but then I realize he had been sitting (mostly) assembled on my shelf of shame like 10 months and it was probably never going to happen. I tried more of a fast and loose style where I didn't worry too much about blending or small mistakes and I really like the result.    Really great mini too. Out of all of them from that kickstarter I think it delivered the hardest on the concept of "weeby orcs". Kind of wish I had gone for it and used the stupid 100mm long sword he came with as a kickstarter bonus. Bloody Hedgehog posted:If you guys want busts, I've got stuff I can share. I've mainly posted them in the Scale Modeling thread, but I'd love to show them off here too. The eyes on this guy are super impressive. Are those real M&Ms? Because they look like real M&Ms. The Moon Monster fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Feb 3, 2020 00:53
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The Moon Monster posted:The eyes on this guy are super impressive. Are those real M&Ms? Because they look like real M&Ms. Thanks! I used real red yarn strands for the veining. Apparently a technique also used by craftsmen fashioning replacement artificial eyes.  They are real M&M's. In my hubris I though "Hey, sometimes you drop an M&M on the floor, you find it five years later under the couch and it basically looks the exact same. They're shelf stable, they'll keep." They did in fact keep, but within a week I had a fruit fly infestation. So I ripped the whole thing apart, redid the base, this time with multi-colored beads in place of M&M's. A compromise, but the general illusion is maintained. I did keep the M&M's on this head though, as I thought just a couple wouldn't attract flies (so good so far), and that's where the focus mostly is.
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Feb 3, 2020 01:07
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Modular painting rack design is all finished, and they are available now for the wealthy and the insane. https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/761722506/snaprack-modular-painting-station?ref=shop_home_active_1
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Feb 3, 2020 03:44
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That gremlin owns. Was gonna call you a madman if you freehanded all of those perfect Ms. edit: Jesus there's so much great stuff on this page. Grizzled Patriarch fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Feb 3, 2020 05:45
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The Moon Monster posted:Just painted this feller. I was planning on a really meticulous paintjob for him but then I realize he had been sitting (mostly) assembled on my shelf of shame like 10 months and it was probably never going to happen. I tried more of a fast and loose style where I didn't worry too much about blending or small mistakes and I really like the result. drat good orc, and the shading on the blade is pretty spot on
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Feb 3, 2020 05:55
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Communist Thoughts posted:just the former I'd advise you to invest in some latex or nitrile gloves. I find that its mostly a matter of the oil from my skin taking the paint off. Once I have a glove on the hand that holds the mini the problem disappears. Alternately you can get a solution like the GW painting handle to keep your fingers off the mini.
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Feb 3, 2020 07:08
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Thanks! I used real red yarn strands for the veining. Apparently a technique also used by craftsmen fashioning replacement artificial eyes. Maybe try sealing the M&Ms with some varnish?
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Feb 3, 2020 08:26
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JackMann posted:Maybe try sealing the M&Ms with some varnish? I tried a bunch of things with some tests first, and everything caused the colors to run or bubble to some degree. Even pro-made reusable prop M&M's are just the real thing dipped in thick resin. It keeps the colors from running because the resin stays put while drying, but you end up with a very thick, shiny layer of clearly visible resin on the surface.
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Feb 3, 2020 08:59
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I finished up a Mawloc, they have a lot of pokey bits.
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Feb 3, 2020 13:47
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Knocked off this half-orc pretty quick, the mold of the face was kind of a mess so I didn't try putting too much detail in, but I like how the rest turned out. 
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Feb 3, 2020 15:04
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Love the palette you went with.
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Feb 3, 2020 15:10
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| # ? May 10, 2024 06:17 |
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So i was working on my first ever figure paint job over the weekend, well, ship, not figure, and my x-wing miniature paint turned out pretty good for a newbie. I used citadel airbrush paints with my hand brushes, this per the local store's recommendation as the paint was pre-thinned. The paint actually felt REALLY thin to me though, so much so that I wonder if using the standard "dry" or "base" paints would be better. Can anyone give advice on this? The paint is so drat watery that it takes a lot of coats to try and cover something. Maybe that's just how it needs to be though?
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Feb 3, 2020 16:45
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