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My current camera savings account is for a GF670. I've been enamoured with the Fuji rangefinders and my X570 dying was the final push I needed to seriously start putting away for one.
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Feb 15, 2020 06:23
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Paul MaudDib posted:do you like rangefinders in any other format at all? I don't think so, I have an olympus XA and I never really use it. The splitters on all of them are pretty good, not as good as a leica of course, but definitely easily usable. My main problem with the rangefinder on the fujis is the loooong eye relief, and being a glasses wearer that can't see poo poo without glasses, there would be a lot of moving my head around just to see the corners of the rangefinder.
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Feb 15, 2020 06:57
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But exposing over the sprocket holes is super hip
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Feb 15, 2020 07:00
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e: nope, sorry Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 14:25 on Feb 15, 2020 |
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Feb 15, 2020 07:06
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Paul MaudDib posted:you already know why you're having a problem four-eyes, don't waste my time with this you asked.
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Feb 15, 2020 09:46
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GreaseGunner posted:But exposing over the sprocket holes is super hip When’s lomo gonna give us a film stock that’s nothing but sprocket holes? Light leaks snd sprocket holes.
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Feb 15, 2020 14:22
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New Pre-developed Lomo. You open the film canister and there’s a printed photo of nothing but sprocket holes that have been over exposed. Save the energy on having to go out and find something to photograph and save the money and time on having to get something developed. $39.95 per canister for the regular version, $59.95 for one with spiral bokeh
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Feb 15, 2020 18:46
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Feb 15, 2020 18:51
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Feb 15, 2020 22:15
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Sell it pre-expired and it’ll fly off the shelves.
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Feb 16, 2020 00:09
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Speaking of all that, the CEO of Yodica messaged me to say thanks for selling his film and to let him know if I needed any help with anything. I felt bad because I thought the film was all stupid and wasn't going to stock anymore. I ended up getting a few more rolls. He's a master salesman.
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Feb 16, 2020 04:46
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Feb 16, 2020 07:16
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Nice!
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Feb 16, 2020 08:48
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I'm getting film for an upcoming trip; I'll be getting my usual Portra 400 in both 35mm and 120; I'm also thinking about some Ektar and/or Ektachrome for some variety. How do the latter two films compare, given equivalent settings? I really don't have much experience with anything besides Portra 400.
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Feb 17, 2020 19:52
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Meaty Ore posted:I'm getting film for an upcoming trip; I'll be getting my usual Portra 400 in both 35mm and 120; I'm also thinking about some Ektar and/or Ektachrome for some variety. How do the latter two films compare, given equivalent settings? I really don't have much experience with anything besides Portra 400. Ektar IME tends to be more vibrant in bright outdoor settings. Both have their reasons for being, but the general thread consensus tends to lean Portra. My brother sent my 10 rolls of Fujifilm C200 for my birthday in January. This'll be a good excuse to learn C-41 developing since they're not the highest quality roll out there.
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Feb 17, 2020 21:29
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Wild EEPROM posted:I don't think so, I have an olympus XA and I never really use it. wanna sell it?
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Feb 17, 2020 21:42
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Dudeabides posted:Ektar IME tends to be more vibrant in bright outdoor settings. Both have their reasons for being, but the general thread consensus tends to lean Portra. Thanks; the trip is to the Smithsonian Institute museums, so most of my pictures will probably be indoors. I may get a few rolls of Ektar in case I end up going to the National Zoo. Hopefully the primates will hold still enough to take pictures at 100 ISO-appropriate shutter speeds.
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Feb 17, 2020 22:23
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Meaty Ore posted:Thanks; the trip is to the Smithsonian Institute museums, so most of my pictures will probably be indoors. I may get a few rolls of Ektar in case I end up going to the National Zoo. Hopefully the primates will hold still enough to take pictures at 100 ISO-appropriate shutter speeds. Unless they’re playing some team sport or racing cars you should manage to get some decent still shots with the right shutter speed.
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Feb 18, 2020 01:18
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Hell, I could even open up the aperture once in a while if I need to!
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Feb 18, 2020 13:58
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Meaty Ore posted:Hell, I could even open up the aperture once in a while if I need to! Well, yeah, if you want to do things the easy way. 
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Feb 18, 2020 15:30
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Action photography with analog cameras is hard!. Got 1 shot from 2 rolls that was half-decent. At least I know that I now can use my Bronica for kendo photography. Potra800 pushed 1 stop. 
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Feb 19, 2020 09:17
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I dont remember if I brought it up here before, but if you paint a spot on your XA viewfinder with Blue Sharpie to make the rangefinder patch clearer, dont do it cause you're wasting your time. Just use black and make sure the focus patch window is clean.
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Feb 19, 2020 14:59
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Gonna shoot some provia soon—never used slide film before. I expect I won’t nail it the first time, but I’d like to mitigate mistakes nonetheless. Should I favor low contrast shots? I’ve been sitting on two rolls for a while now, and I’m champing at the bit to try it out, but it’s so drat gray and boring this time of year. Probably wait for things to green up a bit.
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Feb 21, 2020 01:58
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These last couple pages had me checking over my shoulder - I bought a Pentax645 as my first MF camera years ago, and I just had a Fuji GW690II arrive a few days ago. A quick test roll I put through it came out nicely and I'm really excited for my trip to the Oregon coast in a couple weeks. Obligatory dog picture from the roll 
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Feb 21, 2020 07:58
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President Beep posted:Gonna shoot some provia soon—never used slide film before. I expect I won’t nail it the first time, but I’d like to mitigate mistakes nonetheless. Should I favor low contrast shots? I've only shot provia in 4x5 but it didn't really seem that different to negative film tbh. Sure you aren't going to pull back highlights as much buy by comparison the velvia 50 I shot was a contrast monster. I did notice it had a very blue cast if shot in full sunlight on a clear day, seemed nicer in morning or evening light.
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Feb 21, 2020 11:12
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Blackhawk posted:I've only shot provia in 4x5 but it didn't really seem that different to negative film tbh. Sure you aren't going to pull back highlights as much buy by comparison the velvia 50 I shot was a contrast monster. I did notice it had a very blue cast if shot in full sunlight on a clear day, seemed nicer in morning or evening light. Cool. Thanks for the insight. Really looking forward to checking it out.
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Feb 21, 2020 18:57
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Fixer should be good as long as it tests ok, right? I've got some D-76 powder that's about to "expire" (I'm sure it's fine) But the Ilford Rapid Fix concentrate is a little over 2 years old at this point, well past how long they say you can leave an open bottle. It's not cloudy and doesn't smell too sulfury.
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Feb 23, 2020 17:07
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Arcella posted:Fixer should be good as long as it tests ok, right? I've got some D-76 powder that's about to "expire" (I'm sure it's fine) But the Ilford Rapid Fix concentrate is a little over 2 years old at this point, well past how long they say you can leave an open bottle. It's not cloudy and doesn't smell too sulfury. Test it on a leader and see what happens.
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Feb 23, 2020 23:10
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So I was pouring it up to mix a working solution and it definitely is cloudy. Oh well, getting new fixer isn't too much of a pain, apart from wanting to do some developing today.
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Feb 24, 2020 20:45
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The heinous experience of "scanning" negatives with my digital camera has finally pushed me to buy a dedicated scanner. Found a Minolta Dimage III on ebay for a good price with the film carrier included. It's definitely an older unit, but from what I've read it seems fairly capable.
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Feb 27, 2020 18:47
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President Beep posted:The heinous experience of "scanning" negatives with my digital camera has finally pushed me to buy a dedicated scanner. Found a Minolta Dimage III on ebay for a good price with the film carrier included. It's definitely an older unit, but from what I've read it seems fairly capable. Out of curiosity what did you find so bad about DSLR scanning? I've been doing that with my film and I find the raw images that it captures are great but the colour negative reversal process is usually miserable. IMO it seems like the hardware part of the process is find but the software isn't quite there yet.
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Feb 27, 2020 18:54
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Blackhawk posted:Out of curiosity what did you find so bad about DSLR scanning? I've been doing that with my film and I find the raw images that it captures are great but the colour negative reversal process is usually miserable. IMO it seems like the hardware part of the process is find but the software isn't quite there yet. I was always happy with the quality, and B&W is a cinch to reverse in Lightroom while Negative Lab Pro was great for color. My issue is that I don't have a dedicated space to keep my setup, so it's a bunch of prep and teardown whenever I want to do it. Also, with two kids at home, it can be hard to find dedicated time to scan. I expect it'll be more convenient to load a holder, let the scanner chug away for a while, and then repeat. e: I'll still use my digital camera setup when I shoot 120, but I don't do that nearly as often as I use 35mm. No biggie. President Beep fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Feb 27, 2020 |
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Feb 27, 2020 19:05
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 Does this look like a light leak? This is from the first roll through Canonet 28. I just finished developing a second roll with the seams taped up with electrical tape and it looks the same, with a line through every frame. Obviously if the seals are shot, tape is a half measure, but I wonder if there's something else I'm missing. I did order a replacement seal kit, so we'll see what happens with that. On another note, I used a 675 hearing aid battery in the Canonet, which is somewhere around 1.4 v, compared to the 1.35 v of a mercury cell that older cameras used. Supposedly if you halve the ASA, ie shoot 400 film at 200 on the camera, and develop at 400, it should all work out. From eyeballing the negatives nothing looks too blown out so far.
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Feb 27, 2020 23:49
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since the out of frame area is exposed, it's very likely a light leak. it could be from your dev tank or when you transferred the film to the tank also, remember. I am not sure about the canonet but I remember with some cameras its possible for light to leak in from the viewfinder as well.
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Feb 28, 2020 00:16
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Yeah the second roll I just developed has the same artifact through the middle. Good to know about the viewfinder leaking too, thanks!
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Feb 28, 2020 00:19
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President Beep posted:The heinous experience of "scanning" negatives with my digital camera has finally pushed me to buy a dedicated scanner. Found a Minolta Dimage III on ebay for a good price with the film carrier included. It's definitely an older unit, but from what I've read it seems fairly capable. I'm really hoping that during the next recession the Coolscan 9000s will come down a bit, they've basically doubled in price over the last 10 years.
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Feb 28, 2020 00:44
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gl with the loving shitshow that is nikonscan world's most inconvenient scanner, but the scans are so good
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Feb 28, 2020 05:27
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Wild EEPROM posted:gl with the loving shitshow that is nikonscan You can get Silverfast for it. That's its own set of problems, admittedly.
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Feb 28, 2020 05:36
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I mean, what's the alternative, finding a cheaper imacon?
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Feb 28, 2020 05:51
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Yond Cassius posted:You can get Silverfast for it. That's its own set of problems, admittedly. silverfast for nikon is $450.
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Feb 28, 2020 08:21
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