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Buff Hardback posted:Did you verify that PoE is still proper on those runs? Testing for connectivity doesn't mean that PoE was working. My first instinct is someone hosed up the runs somehow and blew out the APs. Yeah I'm not an IT guy I just play one on TV.
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Feb 13, 2020 18:22
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devmd01 posted:The Home Networking Thread: kinda sitting here with my UniFi limp in my hand bless
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Feb 14, 2020 22:13
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Currently, I have ATT Gigabit Fibre to my house, it is fine, I get the speeds with no data caps. My only problem is that I have to use their poo poo router (5268AC). I can use my own router by using the DMZ+ mode, but that has caused other anomalies. I have seen workarounds to use the provided router after a managed switch to keep the authentication alive while using another router (WRT3200ACM) for all other traffic. Comcast/Xfinity offers Gigabit (not fiber) in my neighborhood as well for the same price (for 12 Months). The benefit being I can use my own modem/router. Should I switch? Should I keep messing around with my current setup to come up with a better solution?
Mister Man fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Feb 16, 2020 |
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Feb 16, 2020 22:30
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Mister Man posted:Currently, I have ATT Gigabit Fibre to my house, it is fine, I get the speeds with no data caps. My only problem is that I have to use their poo poo router (5268AC). I can use my own router by using the DMZ+ mode, but that has caused other anomalies. I have seen workarounds to use the provided router after a managed switch to keep the authentication alive while using another router (WRT3200ACM) for all other traffic. Comcast/Xfinity offers Gigabit (not fiber) in my neighborhood as well for the same price (for 12 Months). The benefit being I can use my own modem/router. Should I switch? Should I keep messing around with my current setup to come up with a better solution? Is the Comcast service gigabit symmetric? And how much will it be after the promo price ends? You want to know that before making any decision. I'm bypassing AT&T's gateway using eap_proxy and it works well enough once I got it setup, although it does get stuck every month or two for some reason. Overall I'm happy with it.
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Feb 17, 2020 01:37
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Comcast gigabit is probably 1 Gb down 40 Mb up if it's anything like the deal I got
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Feb 17, 2020 01:43
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I was considering getting a UDM, but the spot where I would place it is 7 inches high while the UDM is 7.25 inches. Would there be an issue with placing it horizontally?
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Feb 17, 2020 22:37
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Running With Spoons posted:I was considering getting a UDM, but the spot where I would place it is 7 inches high while the UDM is 7.25 inches. I wouldn't hesitate to do it.
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Feb 17, 2020 22:41
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The one thing I'd think about with placement is if it needs clearance on a certain side for airflow.
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Feb 17, 2020 22:45
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I've got a device that only has a LAN port, but there's no good way to get a wired connection out to the barn it is located. I can put antennas or devices on the outside of each building, and they're only about 200 feet apart. I checked out the NanoStations from Ubiquiti but my networking knowledge is basically limited to LAN and simple WiFi setups. I have no idea what the difference is between Point to Point, Point to MultiPoint, CPEs, or any of that stuff. What is the feature i'm really looking for if I just want it to be very simple and invisible to the network, so it just looks like this device is attached normally? Any gear recommendation?
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Feb 18, 2020 00:32
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CainFortea posted:I've got a device that only has a LAN port, but there's no good way to get a wired connection out to the barn it is located. I can put antennas or devices on the outside of each building, and they're only about 200 feet apart. It can be difficult to find the right term because a lot of companies use terms differently, but I'm familiar with this being called a wireless bridge. It's often a setting on a router so that the router itself joins the wireless network provided by another router/WAP and bridges the LAN ports on it to that wifi network. While a lot of routers can do this it seems like some of the specialized travel routers are priced well for this specific use so you don't need to spend $70 on a full router. That said, they will likely only make it 200ft if the signal quality is good through both walls. For example this TP-Link travel router lists (2) Client Mode as what you'd use to do what you want (not all routers will call this client mode): https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Travel-Router-TL-WR902AC/dp/B01N5RCZQH/ If you don't get a solid connection in the barn from a cell phone then that might not be a good choice and you could look into a point to point system where you have an antenna on each building pointing at each other. Once set up the antenna in the barn would give you an ethernet output that might be able to plug directly into your device. Most of them work so that the wired network that plugs into one antenna device comes out the ethernet port on the other side after pairing them up so it would be like plugging the device in directly. Yet another option would be to bury a cable from point to point which is cheaper but a lot more work.
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Feb 18, 2020 01:11
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Rexxed posted:It can be difficult to find the right term because a lot of companies use terms differently, but I'm familiar with this being called a wireless bridge. It's often a setting on a router so that the router itself joins the wireless network provided by another router/WAP and bridges the LAN ports on it to that wifi network. Thanks, that does clarify things a bit. The entire lot is paved, so burying is a non-trivial exercise.  I've got two spare routers and I think they both have bridge settings, and I can get external antenna, but it appears that the NanoStation LocoM2 seems like it does PtP bridging which sounds like what i'm looking for.
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Feb 18, 2020 01:18
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CainFortea posted:Thanks, that does clarify things a bit. The entire lot is paved, so burying is a non-trivial exercise. Yeah I'd try the router but if the signal isn't good enough for what you want those nanostations are really well priced and seem to be reliable based on goon experiences.
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Feb 18, 2020 01:24
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CainFortea posted:Thanks, that does clarify things a bit. The entire lot is paved, so burying is a non-trivial exercise. Yep. Once you get the Nanostation Locos configured and pointed at each other, they act like a piece of ethernet cable.
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Feb 18, 2020 01:55
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Mister Man posted:Comcast/Xfinity offers Gigabit (not fiber) in my neighborhood as well for the same price (for 12 Months). Don’t do it. The non fiber service they offer is gigabit down but only like 50m up. I’ve been using ATT fiber and eap_proxy with my Edgerouter for months and it has yet to fail. The Pace modem is dogshit in DMZ+ mode, supposedly the BGW210 doesn’t have this issue in its version of DMZ+ mode so just doing that might be sufficient to solve your issues. To get one, schedule a service call and tell them you’re having problems with your gateway and you’d like to switch to the BGW210. When the tech calls you to confirm your appointment, ask them if they’re bringing a bgw210 just to confirm.
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Feb 18, 2020 05:58
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Yeah I can confirm that the BGW210 is just "good enough" in DMZ+
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Feb 18, 2020 08:28
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Curious what the goon consensus is for paying someone handier-than-thou assist with (read: do almost all the work of) adding wired networking to a newly purchased house. I've been involved in just enough DIY wall/basement/attic/crawlspace Ethernet running (also, 20 years ago - CAT ratings go to 8 now?!) to know I'd rather find someone else who does it for a living instead of do a half-assed job myself. Been told elsewhere that the average "wire up your home" contractor knows AV-oriented wiring (coax, audio, etc) much better than the somewhat more sensitive Gb/10Gb/etc Ethernet - the advice I was given is "maybe get them to run CAT6a so even if they rough it up a bunch you'll still get Gb speeds". Kinda hoping there are competent folks out there somewhere though - just not sure exactly where to look. There's also the more resilient MoCA, but I'm mildly put off by the link in the OP showing you need a nearly router-sized box at every coax-to-Ethernet transition point. My ideal setup is probably ye olde Unifi prosumer grade stuff (gateway, switch, wall drops for PCs/consoles, and WAPs), presumably with PoE if I'm getting good enough wire put in. I just...want someone else to do the actual grunt work of getting the wires run.
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Feb 19, 2020 03:50
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bitprophet posted:Curious what the goon consensus is for paying someone handier-than-thou assist with (read: do almost all the work of) adding wired networking to a newly purchased house. I've been involved in just enough DIY wall/basement/attic/crawlspace Ethernet running (also, 20 years ago - CAT ratings go to 8 now?!) to know I'd rather find someone else who does it for a living instead of do a half-assed job myself. I found someone on yelp at random. A modern AV person is going to be able to do this no problem, but getting them to come out and not have it cost an arm and a leg is another question entirely. You're a small job that is only the worst part, and you won't be having them come back ever. There is a certain amount of tax that's going to be levied on that if they are at all busy. If you're good at terminations, buy high quality RJ-45 keystones (not monoprice) and a bunch of pre-terminated patch cords (monoprice), then hire a handyman to pull the wire. I would be ready with some way to test the speed of every link so you know if they've damaged the cable in pulling it. If you're pulling new wire 6a is a good trade-off between cost and future proofing. You should get full rated speeds, POE, etc on it if a pro does it.
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Feb 19, 2020 04:27
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I had good luck through some local friends that are in the IT trade recommending people who do office cabling and specifically camera installation. They were already ready and willing to get in the attic and make drops around the house and it was something like 75 or 100/drop. I only had them run two cables for APs in the ceiling so I'd have great coverage, but for the roughly 200 it cost me it was a steal. Rather than looking for a company that does AV work, look to see if you can find a small-time operation that does office IT work and see if they'll take the job. EDIT, I provided the APs, but they provided the rest. I didn't have to dig out my old termination equipment or buy keystones or any of that nonsense.
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Feb 19, 2020 15:21
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I paid a guy who primarily does satellite installs, but also does data cabling when he's not busy with that. $100/drop, plus I had him run coax to the attic space for an antenna for local channels. He provided the wall boxes, plates, and keystone jacks, and I terminated everything to the patch panel I set up in the basement. I thought that it was worth paying, since we're in a two story with an unfinished basement. The main level was easy, the three bedrooms upstairs not so much.
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Feb 19, 2020 15:40
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I had an electrician do it, there was some high voltage work I was using him for, and added the low voltage to his task list. About $100 per drop, he provided all materials including some conduit and camera-post mounts (love my PoE cameras!).
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Feb 19, 2020 16:16
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If you just want the wire pulled, any old electrician should be fine. The issues with who you hire usually comes up if you are asking them to do terminations.
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Feb 19, 2020 16:31
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My electrician ran ethernet for not very much money but did not do the terminations. I got like $30 in tools and figured it out from youtube in less than an hour. It's really not hard, just a little tedious.
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Feb 19, 2020 16:38
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We wired our network by hand. In retrospect it was fortunate we even did that, because we could set up the AP upstairs on a now unused jack.
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Feb 19, 2020 16:44
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Thanks all, that makes sense, so I'll see what I can turn up and given we're having some other renovations done, might try the "get the electrician to add it to their list" tack if I feel like dealing with the terminating myself (I remember crimping being a pain but I've heard there are slightly easier toolless terminators now or something).
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Feb 21, 2020 03:14
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bitprophet posted:Thanks all, that makes sense, so I'll see what I can turn up and given we're having some other renovations done, might try the "get the electrician to add it to their list" tack if I feel like dealing with the terminating myself (I remember crimping being a pain but I've heard there are slightly easier toolless terminators now or something). lovely tools make everything harder, that's for sure. If you're having an electrician run cable, at least ask a couple questions to see how often they've done it before. What you don't want them to do is treat it like generic low voltage like alarm sensor wiring where they just use regular staples to tack it to studs and generally not give a poo poo. You want easy bends, service loops, don't run in the same bundles as AC wiring, stuff like that. Also, the universal law of cabling applies - never run just one wire anywhere. Doesn't change the labor much at all, just means you'll buy another box of cat6. Try and get them to be labeled as tracing everything after the fact is annoying extra work that is easily prevented by labeling as you go. Also, buy a patch panel for the place you have all the wires end up - don't be a lazy dick and crimp connectors on them. If you're running land line connections for phones anywhere (why) run those as cat6 too, that way you can use one pair for a regular POTS connection but you'll be able to easily swap it over to a data drop just by reterminating the ends. Think about the devices you want to support, for example my TV, home theater receiver, PS4, xbox and Apple TV all have Ethernet jacks. If you have the option to hardwire it, do that. The less poo poo you have talking on your wireless network, the better the wireless will work for the devices that don't have a wired option. While you can certainly put a small switch in the entertainment center area, you should still at least have more than one drop available in case you end up needing it.
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Feb 21, 2020 15:31
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H2SO4 posted:you're running land line connections for phones anywhere (why) run those as cat6 too, that way you can use one pair for a regular POTS connection but you'll be able to easily swap it over to a data drop just by reterminating the ends. Buy combo jacks that are rj-11+rj-45 if you are going to pull pots lines anywhere for some unknown reason.
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Feb 21, 2020 16:37
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Hey all, I have moved to Google Wifi in the past year and really missing utilizing the built-in openVPN on my previous Netgear router to access my home PC and servers. What is the best solution to getting a VPN connection back to my home network in this configuration without disabling the Mesh on the Google Wifi and also not loving my set up that is working currently. I know I could put the older Netgear router behind the Google and forward the port, but then I would not be able to have any devices connected to the Mesh connect to anything behind the router. Is there a solution that exists that will allow this functionality? I also have a few Raspberry Pis laying around (one running PiHole and Homebridge) that could be tasked to host openVPN but am unclear on how to set it up properly. My initial thought would be to install openVPN on the PiHole and then forward the port to it, but I have a feeling that it wouldn’t work properly to access the other servers/machines on my home network, or would it? Thanks in advance net-goons!
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Feb 22, 2020 00:13
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Follow-up to my previous post. I decided to try loading up the openVPN server to my Windows 10 box. I was able to create all the keys and get my iPhone connected to the VPN while it had its WiFi disabled. I was unable to access anything on the LAN, so I believe that I need to configure the Windows box to bridge the connection. Can I do this virtually or do I need a second NIC? I found this link, but it's too late now for me to try it and I believe that I need to go back and re-edit my .opvn files to tell my clients that it'll encounter a bridge. https://openvpn.net/community-resources/notes-ethernet-bridging-with-the-bridge-occurring-on-the-windows-side/ Am I barking up the wrong tree? Any unforeseen obstacles that I am plowing into? Thanks again!
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Feb 22, 2020 06:17
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TraderStav posted:Follow-up to my previous post. I decided to try loading up the openVPN server to my Windows 10 box. I was able to create all the keys and get my iPhone connected to the VPN while it had its WiFi disabled. I was unable to access anything on the LAN, so I believe that I need to configure the Windows box to bridge the connection. Can I do this virtually or do I need a second NIC? If your host is windows I would suggest using softether, I’ve found it easier to set up and it rarely breaks
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Feb 22, 2020 12:52
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SlowBloke posted:If your host is windows I would suggest using softether, I’ve found it easier to set up and it rarely breaks Thanks, I'll try this out! Can I use the openVPN iOS app to access it still? Not seeing a SoftEther app on the store.
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Feb 22, 2020 15:26
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SlowBloke posted:If your host is windows I would suggest using softether, I’ve found it easier to set up and it rarely breaks Hot-diggity dog I set it up! Thank you! This was my largest frustration with Google Wifi and hadn't realized it was this straightforward to set up. I did end up using the openVPN app as SoftEther provided that as an option. What a great solution overall.
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Feb 22, 2020 16:05
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TraderStav posted:Thanks, I'll try this out! Can I use the openVPN iOS app to access it still? Not seeing a SoftEther app on the store. Sorry for not replying sooner but it looks like you have managed it either way. If you want to avoid one extra app you could use softether l2tp vpn mode and rely on the native iOS vpn options.
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Feb 22, 2020 16:42
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SlowBloke posted:Sorry for not replying sooner but it looks like you have managed it either way. If you want to avoid one extra app you could use softether l2tp vpn mode and rely on the native iOS vpn options. Thanks, unless there's a way to quickly toggle the VPN I think that the openVPN app may be the better solution. I don't think you can do it via shortcuts or the control center so it's nested in there every time I want to switch. Appreciate all of the help!
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Feb 22, 2020 16:51
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TraderStav posted:Thanks, unless there's a way to quickly toggle the VPN I think that the openVPN app may be the better solution. I don't think you can do it via shortcuts or the control center so it's nested in there every time I want to switch. Yeah, you need to make a quick trip to settings to launch a l2tp vpn, sadly there is no way to activate native vpn by control center or siri actions.
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Feb 22, 2020 17:17
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I've been having issues exposing services on a computer behind my router to the internet recently, and I have a feeling it is a double NAT related issue due to the modem also doing some routing/firewall functions. The modem/gateway is a Comcast Business branded Netgear CG3000DCR, the router is a Netgear Nighthawk (R7000 IIRC). From what I understand, the ideal solution would be to put the modem into bridge mode, which would let the router handle all routing functions (and all traffic to the external IP address would actually reach the router). However, from my research it seems Comcast Business will periodically revert the modem back to router mode if you aren't a static IP customer (which I'm not). It also seems getting the CG3000DCR into a true bridge mode is tricky, and can result in having to call Comcast to get them reset the modem remotely if anything goes wrong. I'm not often at this location, so I'd prefer a solution that is easily revertible. Is this as simple as setting up identical Port Forwarding on the modem as I have setup on the router, except forwarding to the router's internal IP address from the modem's perspective? Would making the router a DMZ host on the modem have similar results as putting the modem in bridge mode (for this purpose at least)? e: one thing that does have me scratching my head is I swear just setting up port forwarding on the router worked for a bit (with the modem in identical configuration) before it stopped. I've verified all the rules on the router are still correct (i.e. no internal IP addresses have changed). Splinter fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Feb 24, 2020 |
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Feb 24, 2020 01:02
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Is it typical cable internet service or fiber? Because when I had a comcast biz line with DHCP I just used my own Arris modem and gave their gateway back. That being said, I'm almost positive I had the same modem you did and never had any issues with bridging, although I did have a block of static IPs.
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Feb 24, 2020 06:44
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I am installing CAT6 throughout my house in a few days. There is no existing Ethernet installed, so this is totally fresh. I am debating what to install at the entry point for the cables running to each room. This is the point where all the lines meet and connect to my router. I am thinking I'll install a patch panel directly in the drywall. That way there's not a CAT6 octopus of cables just splaying out of a hole in the wall. I already ordered this patch panel, but could return it still. Is this standard to do? Any other suggestions before I cut a hole in the drywall near the router?
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Feb 24, 2020 06:58
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Chimp_On_Stilts posted:I am installing CAT6 throughout my house in a few days. There is no existing Ethernet installed, so this is totally fresh. If you don't mind having all the switches and routers in a pile under that patch panel no prob, i personally would have used a tiny 19" network rack.
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Feb 24, 2020 07:16
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SlowBloke posted:If you don't mind having all the switches and routers in a pile under that patch panel no prob, i personally would have used a tiny 19" network rack. Help me understand what this would look like. Do you have a picture? Even if I had a 19" network rack to hold the router and modem, wouldn't I still need something like a patch panel embedded in the wall? I don't want a bunch of cables just splayed out of a hole in the wall.
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Feb 24, 2020 07:36
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You can get them with fewer Us, but basically something like this:
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