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Thanks guys! Been away from this project for a while now, but last night I got a chance to mess with it a little. Verified that the male register diameter on the transmission side of the adapter is exactly right to fit the trans tailhousing now that I scraped a bunch of built up RTV out of the tailhousing (fuckin' previous owner... I didn't bother removing it when I rebuilt the trans since the factory tcase was looser tolerance and didn't have a problem with it) and I bought the mill tooling and bolts for mounting this to the tcase. Soon as it arrives I hope to machine the bolt holes and get the transfer case bolted back into the Jeep.
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Jan 16, 2020 22:03
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Another major hurdle cleared... Tcase is permanently installed now! Machined the bolt holes and stud holes in the clocking ring in the right spots. Had to do it on my drill press so the tolerances and surface finishes are junk but it doesn't matter because the two important dimensions are already machined perfectly concentric and tighter than factory tolerance. Installed the studs too of course.  Bolted it onto the tcase. Fit with minor filing on two holes because I drilled them slightly off, turns out sharpie transferring the pattern from the mock-up adapter ring to this one wasn't as accurate as CNC milling like I intended to do originally.  Minor filing of burrs on one hole in the trans tailhousing and it fits perfectly!  Clocked exactly how I wanted it too.  Still a ton of stuff left, but all the hard custom drivetrain work is done now. At this point it should be pretty smooth sailing and light lifting, the heaviest parts I need to move around at this point (until I do the axles) are the battery, exhaust, and driveshafts. kastein fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Jan 29, 2020 |
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Jan 24, 2020 08:30
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No heavy duty stuff done today but I spent most of the evening looking through alldata schematics writing down notes on what wiring needs to go where and which pins and color codes are what. Also measured for the rear driveshaft and hoping I can booger weld one together easily from what I've got on hand since I don't want to waste money on a new one to go with this rear axle, given that it's not going to be in the Jeep very long.
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Feb 4, 2020 08:41
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Super glad to see that 5 ton running, and you getting a chance to work on cars again!
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Feb 4, 2020 11:32
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Barely. I still spend most of my time on the house. But I dunno how this truck is getting to Washington if it's not drivable and I'll be damned if I'm leaving it here.
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Feb 4, 2020 17:47
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kastein posted:Barely. I still spend most of my time on the house. But I dunno how this truck is getting to Washington if it's not drivable and I'll be damned if I'm leaving it here. If you're still around for NEFR and need a hand lemme know.
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Feb 4, 2020 18:41
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kastein posted:Barely. I still spend most of my time on the house. But I dunno how this truck is getting to Washington if it's not drivable and I'll be damned if I'm leaving it here. Create a new channel on YouTube and document the one month journey and make millions.
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Feb 4, 2020 19:28
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daslog posted:Create a new channel on YouTube and document the one month journey and make millions. Make sure to "accidentally" hurt yourself every time and go after the Electroboom audience.
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Feb 4, 2020 19:56
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Doing fuel system and driveshaft research ATM. It looks like the junkyard 03 Tahoe fuel sender I was going to use isn't going to fit into the yeeyee fuel tank I was going to use. Can't decide if I should sack up and get a real fuel cell, or go with an airtex e2000/spectra premium sp1121 style external pump and the tank I already have, or bodge a random 98 XJ tank and pump in since I've got them sitting here, or some fourth option. Cheap is good. Not a loving hackjob is good. If it's a hackjob, bare minimum hacked parts count and no hacked service parts. Thoughts? I priced out fuel cell parts and holy gently caress. For the driveshaft, I need it to fit on a 3.125 pilot and have a 4.25 bolt circle at the CV flange end. This appears to fit 1310, 1330, and 1350 ujoint size CV housings equally well. The other end is 1310 so I'll stay with 1310s unless I blow something up or get my 60/70 in and they use something else. I've got the existing driveshafts from the old drivetrain that I'll probably just buy one CV flange for each and retube yet again. They're ugly, but they also won't be in there long since I'm putting new axles under it ASAP.
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Feb 13, 2020 05:21
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Existing tank and new external oil pump seems like a piece of piss to install, if it's in the price range just run it.
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Feb 13, 2020 05:24
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It is but there's no real way on this tank to run a pickup sock so I'll probably burn up pumps early and often, which isn't something I like.
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Feb 13, 2020 05:32
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Elviscat posted:Existing tank and new external oil pump seems like a piece of piss to install, if it's in the price range just run it. This. If it has supply issues, put the external pump in a can or use a damper behind it. Priming can be a bitch. use a dedicated lift pump if needed. Fuel cells are awesome, cost aside they come with their own mounting pains. As for the XJ tank, do you, Overbuild the poo poo out of it, however it's an il-advised solution from a liability perspective.
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Feb 13, 2020 05:40
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Can you do an external swirl pot/de-aerator or something like paint guns use?
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 13, 2020 05:40
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Well, I wanted to just mount the whole level and pump assembly I got into a tank, but I can't it seems. And I'd rather not overcomplicate it with a surge tank but might have to. It'll gravity feed fine since the pump will be below the tank and fed from below it, but keeping crap out of the pump is giving me fits because it's just an npt bung in the tank bottom and I can't find a bulkhead pass through with a barb on each side that screws into an npt hole. I might be able to use an inline filter in the supply side but I'm not knowledgeable enough on fuel pump setups to be sure that won't make the pump unhappy trying to prime. Since it will gravity feed I feel like it'll be ok but who knows. It's also super hinky and a fuel pump and wiring just hanging out like that bother me but I can make it perfect later.
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Feb 13, 2020 06:51
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Like CSB said, put it in a can with a sock, or find a big 'ol filter, NPT->X adapters are widly available use one of those to mount a nice fatty fuel filter. Make sure it's big enough and it'll be fine, search COTS industrial poo poo if a good automotive equivalent doesn't exist.
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Feb 13, 2020 07:30
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Yes, NPT to everything is available. X to NPT to X pass-through? Not so much. And I really don't want to put it in a can, that brings its own set of issues.
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Feb 13, 2020 07:35
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So pass-through you're looking at an NPT nipple.with teflon sealing rings on either end, right? Should be able to use a close nipple sealed to the tank to the requisite adaptors. If not, an adapter of your choosing welded into the tank? I know that means inerting the tank somehow, but that shouldn't be difficult with your skill set.
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Feb 13, 2020 07:43
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kastein posted:Well, I wanted to just mount the whole level and pump assembly I got into a tank, but I can't it seems. And I'd rather not overcomplicate it with a surge tank but might have to. It'll gravity feed fine since the pump will be below the tank and fed from below it, but keeping crap out of the pump is giving me fits because it's just an npt bung in the tank bottom and I can't find a bulkhead pass through with a barb on each side that screws into an npt hole. I might be able to use an inline filter in the supply side but I'm not knowledgeable enough on fuel pump setups to be sure that won't make the pump unhappy trying to prime. Since it will gravity feed I feel like it'll be ok but who knows. Keep a 100ish micron filter before the pump, a 10 micron filter after the pump. That should keep a bosch 044 style pump happy.
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Feb 13, 2020 07:47
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I think I still have a couple Bosch 044 pumps in the garage from an abandoned project, brand new in box I'll send your way half price. I can also highly recommend the Holley hydramat product. You could toss he smallest size at the low point of the tank and run the thing down to the last tablespoon. Surge tanks are dead simple and also work great but then you need space for one and a bit more plumbing, I ended up going hydramat in the Locost and I've been very happy with it.
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Feb 13, 2020 17:30
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I think at this point I'm gonna hillbilly something to get it started and running, and probably pick up a jegs, RJS, or RCI fuel cell for actual use. The jegs website is loving awful if you want to do anything sort/filter wise so I straight up gave up on choosing and buying one a few days ago. Christ, what the gently caress. Let me give you money.
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Feb 23, 2020 01:06
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Summit: here's thirty checkboxes but gently caress you for choosing more than five! Also are you a bot?
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Feb 23, 2020 01:33
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Jegs: Yeah, we totally have that in stock, just let us charge your credit card and HAHAHAHA SIKE
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Feb 23, 2020 02:38
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Krakkles posted:Jegs: Yeah, we totally have that in stock, just let us charge your credit card and HAHAHAHA SIKE That happened to me twice in a row trying to order a set of springs. Said they were in stock, nope, and OOPS they don't make them anymore! Idiots.
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Feb 23, 2020 05:58
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IOwnCalculus posted:Summit: here's thirty checkboxes but gently caress you for choosing more than five! Also are you a bot? Literally just felt my blood pressure spike
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Feb 24, 2020 01:53
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Dissenting opinion: I'm an hour away from Jeg's and 1.5 from Summit, I just shop the stores 
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Feb 24, 2020 16:08
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Dagen H posted:Dissenting opinion: I'm an hour away from Jeg's and 1.5 from Summit, I just shop the stores I’m less than 30 minutes from the one in Arlington, TX, and it’s glorious. I literally just stopped and stared the first time I walked in. Edit: but yeah, the website is lacking.
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Feb 24, 2020 20:26
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Still haven't bought a fuel cell, been too annoyed to bother trying to use the jegs and summit sites again. A local is selling one for a hundred bucks but I'm not sure he'll have it pulled by the time I want it. We'll see. In the meantime I did some wiring tonight (not much), got the throttle cable mostly installed, filled and bled the power steering halfway-ish, hooked up the heater core hoses, and installed the tcase and trans vent hoses routed into the cab. Also took some measurements for something I'm doing that most people are probably going to think I'm an idiot for, seeing as most trailblazer owners do exactly the opposite.
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Mar 10, 2020 07:23
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So you’re going to stay at Microsoft? I’m confused how you measure for a Paul Allen install
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Mar 11, 2020 03:54
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Tremek posted:So you’re going to stay at Microsoft? I’m confused how you measure for a Paul Allen install Simple, 6 feet deep, 2.5 feet wide, and 8 feet long.
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Mar 11, 2020 04:32
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kastein posted:Still haven't bought a fuel cell, been too annoyed to bother trying to use the jegs and summit sites again. A local is selling one for a hundred bucks but I'm not sure he'll have it pulled by the time I want it. We'll see. Fuel cell bought Bed shoveled and vacuumed out enough to figure out where it's getting mounted (easy, I'm mostly covering the hole the previous owner hacked in it to relocate the factory tank) Swapped the van throttle cable into the Yukon throttle cable sheath, recrimped the pedal end to accommodate the factory pedal Made my van harness to truck/SUV MAF adapter cable. I didn't want to splice it since the van air filter housing may end up being the one I use and the MAF is built into it. Mounted and routed the vacuum lines and reservoir and cruise control module Did some more minor wiring Test fit a 97 Dodge 1500 5.9/auto front driveshaft. It fits both tcase output flanges as expected. I'll need to extend it 3 inches for the front shaft and get another one to extend 8.5 inches for the rear. Both to be done with schedule 40 pipe because these are temporary, the J20 44 and 60 are getting replaced with a front 70 and rear 60 ASAP once I get it running and driving. Did a bunch of cardboard aided design for mounting the radiator. I could have bodged the hoses to make the factory one work but I expect to be driving this thing through the middle of goddamn nowhere and even big city parts houses don't stock '79 J10 radiators, and the hose connections aren't ideal for the swap (wrong sizes, wrong locations, no steam port barb, no oil cooler...) So a while ago I did some parts Lego-ing research and found one I thought would fit that should be in almost any parts store anywhere. It will definitely fit, just a matter of making a shroud/bracket assembly that mounts it to the radiator support now. I think I can find a way to use factory GM hoses - including oil cooler pipes - with minor trimming and bending respectively. Also on the subject of cooling systems, verified that I can put the trailblazer fan clutch on my 6.0. Wonder if I can just enable it in hptuners and connect it to the right ECU pin, or if I'll have to build my own controller? I want to be able to flip a switch to turn it all the way off for water crossings but would like the ECU to manage it otherwise. I guess I'll find out next time I fool with hpt, I haven't done any real tuning yet but have been learning my way around the program when I get the chance.
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Apr 2, 2020 06:06
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As far as I know that's a flag you can set in the programming, but... did anyone ever figure out how to make those things last? That part was a repeat failure on my mom's Trailblazer. Would've been cheaper to buy a HPTuners license to tune out the CEL and put a regular clutch fan on it.
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Apr 2, 2020 19:44
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Aftermarket replacements are down into the 75 dollar range and junkyard ones are like 20-30 so I figure I'll give it a shot. I'm not tossing the factory viscous clutch and fan until I determine if I like it, though. And I'm designing the radiator mount and shroud to support either one. The trailblazer fan is 21" while the g3500 is 18.25" so I guess I'll just make two hole patterns for the shroud ring. Unfortunately they don't use the same bolt pattern to the clutch either.
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Apr 2, 2020 20:27
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The last years of the Trailblazer went back to a standard fan clutch that other than a lack of a pigtail, looks like it bolts up in the exact same way. So you should be able to have either configuration without modifying the shroud or fan arrangement.
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Apr 2, 2020 22:34
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Isn’t there a sub-harness for the electric fans that doesn’t sap HP and is better to control with HPT versus a heavy clutched fan
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Apr 3, 2020 02:24
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The donor was a van so it had a clutched fan. And they move far more air at far lower vehicle speeds than any electric, so that's what I'm using unless the trailblazer one works out. I need full cooling at sub 20mph, in fact there's a good chance I need full cooling at 2mph. If it doesn't work it's getting the van fan clutch tossed back on for sure, unless I can find a way to adapt something like a 6.0 Ford electronically controlled viscous clutch to the task. It looks like those are m40x2 instead of m30x1.5 like the GM ones, and I have no idea what the control scheme is, so I'd much rather try this with stuff from the same manufacturer as the engine and ECU first.
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Apr 3, 2020 04:13
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Why not have an override switch to turn the electric fans on full chat when needed and let the ecu control it the rest of the time?
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Apr 3, 2020 04:36
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I've never seen an electric fan that can move even close to what a mechanical one can. Electric controlled mechanical crosses both, and I can add a switch to disable it when needed and let the ECU take as much as it needs otherwise.
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Apr 3, 2020 06:32
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I’m really confused, electrics you can run at full speed independent of like low off-road crawling RPMs if you need the cooling. How is that not the most important advantage to prioritize in the severe-duty situation you described? E: sources advocating electric over mechanical: https://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/1408-cooling-tech-math-cool-geek/ https://www.holley.com/blog/post/how_to_choose_an_electric_radiator_fan/ Tremek fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Apr 4, 2020 |
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Apr 4, 2020 20:50
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kastein posted:I've never seen an electric fan that can move even close to what a mechanical one can. Axial electric fans with a motor in the center are less efficient. There is less blade surface area for the same size fan. There are some computer fans that drive the tips of the blades ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tip-magnetic_driving ) for that reason. Seems like driving a mechanical fan with electric motor through a belt would be fine
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Apr 4, 2020 21:10
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Many people have tried over the years to cool 4wds with electric fans and every one of em has failed. Why do you think manufacturers like Toyota fit mechanical fans to literally every single 4wd they manufacture. There was a thread on another forum a while back on the topic and someone calculated that a fully locked up fan on an 80 series diesel was moving around 3000cfm at 1200 rpm and north of 9000cfm at 3000 rpm. You can’t match that with electrics in the area you have, which is the other consideration. Things like ultra 4 buggies and trophy trucks have electric fan cooling but they’re also running massive radiators, not sandwiched between the grill and the engine.
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Apr 5, 2020 01:59
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