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jesus WEP posted:Is that a trick specific to yellow or is there some area of colour theory where you can replicate it for any colour? I know that it’s easier to apply red over a dark brown/grey/white zenithal scheme It's supposed to be possible for any color as far as I know. You need to know what colors work well together (like yellow and pink here) for the best effects though. Layering (with wet blending and stuff) is supposed to give a better final result, but it takes so much time it might not be necessary for war gaming standards. However I find it very hard to correct mistakes - there are a couple of places where I painted over the yellow and I don't think there's no amount of ink that'll ever be able to color that. Their transparency is both a blessing and a curse. I learned a lot from this video from Vince Venturella, as well as the one posted earlier in the thread specifically about pink paints and yellow inks.
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# ? Feb 25, 2020 16:55 |
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# ? Jun 12, 2024 15:10 |
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Trying to strip a few new Nolzur miniatures because the primer is too thick and I need to clean mold lines anyway, but this stuff is like indestructible. 2 days in a Purple Power bath followed by 2 days in 91% isopropyl alcohol did hardly anything at all. Anyone know what the hell this primer is made of and what would actually remove it?
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# ? Feb 25, 2020 17:04 |
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Trying to strip a few new Nolzur miniatures because the primer is too thick and I need to clean mold lines anyway, but this stuff is like indestructible. 2 days in a Purple Power bath followed by 2 days in 91% isopropyl alcohol did hardly anything at all. Anyone know what the hell this primer is made of and what would actually remove it? I stripped a Nolzur's mini at the same time I did some others and it was indeed hard to strip. I used 99% alcohol and scrubbed it with a toothbrush every couple of hours. Took a while but eventually worked. Apply elbow grease and good luck.
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# ? Feb 25, 2020 17:49 |
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Finished my recent project today, a Jackal Alphus with the head swapped out for one of the ones from the sisters squad box to make it non-GSC and more part of a Rogue Trader group.
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# ? Feb 25, 2020 20:18 |
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I've recently upgraded to an iphone 11 pro max, and jesus wept it has a good camera for this hobby. Here's an album of a reiver I'm currently working on: Clicky for gallery of huge images Not too shabby for someone with essential tremor, I think
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# ? Feb 25, 2020 20:54 |
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I really like your choice of yellow for the pouches there, really stands out against the blue. The edge highlighting, as well, is pretty fine.
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# ? Feb 25, 2020 22:54 |
Painted up some Humblewood ember bat swarms - my only primer (as I’m just starting out) is black, so I did a coat of pale pink on these and then yellow, etc. I think my paint may have ended up too thick because of all the layers I did.
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# ? Feb 25, 2020 23:44 |
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I would try having the colors blend into one another, and then shading it, and then giving the bats little beady black eyes.
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# ? Feb 25, 2020 23:51 |
I said come in! posted:I would try having the colors blend into one another, and then shading it, and then giving the bats little beady black eyes. Would using a wash for shading work ok? I don’t want to dull down the colors. And I can’t believe I forgot eyes.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 00:06 |
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hollylolly posted:Would using a wash for shading work ok? I don’t want to dull down the colors. And I can’t believe I forgot eyes. Ooh wait, good point. I've never dealt with painting fire before. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOGaokIWx34&t=44s this video has a very good section on painting fire for the models sword. 5 minutes 50 seconds in. You could apply that to your bats I think with great success. I said come in! fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Feb 26, 2020 |
# ? Feb 26, 2020 00:09 |
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Radio Free Kobold posted:I really like your choice of yellow for the pouches there, really stands out against the blue. The edge highlighting, as well, is pretty fine. Thank you! The pouches are actually super thinned out snakebite leather contrast paint
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 00:33 |
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Could probably tie them together a bit more with a few glaze passes. If you use one of the brighter tones it shouldn't knock down the colors much at all.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 00:35 |
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What glaze would you suggest?
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 01:36 |
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jesus WEP posted:Is that a trick specific to yellow or is there some area of colour theory where you can replicate it for any colour? I know that it’s easier to apply red over a dark brown/grey/white zenithal scheme The horrible secret is that both color theory and the specific properties of pigments can take a life time of study to never achieve mastery. At least have fun with it though
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 01:43 |
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Condoleezza Nice! posted:What glaze would you suggest? Glazing that yellow into the orange and then maybe glazing a dark red from the middle of the orange into the black would probably make the transitions smoother and visually tie the sections together a bit more without dulling the colors or killing the saturation. jesus WEP posted:Is that a trick specific to yellow or is there some area of colour theory where you can replicate it for any colour? I know that it’s easier to apply red over a dark brown/grey/white zenithal scheme There's lots of cool stuff like that. Basecoating green over magenta looks really nice for stuff like Ork skin where you want a more organic, live look, and you can steal a page from the old masters and do undercoats of greyish green for human flesh, etc.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 03:35 |
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I’m looking for red based off-black paint colors, as in a red so dark that it appears almost black but is still noticeably red. Any suggestions?
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 05:56 |
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Muninn posted:I’m looking for red based off-black paint colors, as in a red so dark that it appears almost black but is still noticeably red. Any suggestions? Reaper Red Brick, Vallejo Cadmium Maroon, or Vallejo Black Red over a black basecoat maybe? At that point it starts getting into purple and reddish-brown tones, and there's not really any way to avoid that as you get darker. Since glazes came up it might be worth mentioning a black basecoat followed by red glazes until the pigment builds up enough to tint it while still having black show through, but that's a hell of a lot of work unless you're just trying to do it on a .
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 07:04 |
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As if I didn't have enough expensive stuff I didn't paint, my wife was nice or cruel enough to buy me a resin-based 3D Printer for my birthday, an Anycubic Photon. Once I get the thing setup over the next day, I'll post when I print something out that didn't come out tele-fragged.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 09:44 |
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Muninn posted:I’m looking for red based off-black paint colors, as in a red so dark that it appears almost black but is still noticeably red. Any suggestions? Why not try to mix the paint yourself on a palette until you get the color you like?
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 10:11 |
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Heroic Yoshimitsu posted:Do people here make your own glazes, or buy the premade ones? You can make decent glazes my massively watering down normal acrylics right? I just use paint or ink + water most of the time. Certain paints will start breaking up (look for the pigments becoming unevenly distributed) when you water them down to glaze consistency; you can help that by adding glaze medium, or just picking a different color to use as a glaze. Stuff like flow improver can be helpful but it's not necessary.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 11:48 |
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while thinning paints way down to a really transparent glaze it’s nice to know that water will increase surface tension and flow improver will reduce surface tension; if it’s beading up too much you can use flow improver to stop it, and if it’s just running everywhere you can use water (or matte medium) to stop that
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 12:04 |
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Painted a couple of Chaos boys. I adore these new models, each one oozes character. I have mixed feelings about contrast paints. On one hand they let me knock out models that look great in record time, but at the same time I can feel them becoming a crutch which will prevent me from developing. On the other hand I've always just aimed for tabletop quality and I'd rather have ten good looking models than one fantastic and nine gray plastic blobs so eh.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 13:05 |
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:There's lots of cool stuff like that. Basecoating green over magenta looks really nice for stuff like Ork skin where you want a more organic, live look, and you can steal a page from the old masters and do undercoats of greyish green for human flesh, etc. Is there a blog entry or book or anything like that shows these different interactions?
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 13:12 |
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Might buy a couple dozen cheap-rear end models and experiment with airbrushing e.g. blue ink onto them preshaded with dark orange/yellow/red and see what happens for each
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 14:03 |
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So do contrast paints work reasonably well over any primer other than GW's? I really don't want to buy $20 cans of spray primer. I have an airbrush and have primed Stylrenz plenty.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 15:21 |
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As far as I’m aware they work fine over any primer, your bigger issue is the airbrush - it doesn’t really do the shading magic unless you brush it on
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 15:23 |
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Yeah, the contrast paints work just fine over other primer. I use krylon spraycans of either primer or ultra-matte and the models I've used contrast paints on turned out great. I love contrast paints, and I'm glad they came out right before I started painting. I don't use them for a lot of things, but what I do use them on turns out good, and I don't feel bad using them one bit.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 15:28 |
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Been wanting to experiment a bit more now that I have more than contrast paint pot but not sure how. So far I've used Black Templar to make black cloth even blacker (or duller I suppose) and tried Talassar blue over metal with some fun results. But not sure what else I can do with them on the top of my head. Although I need to try Akhelian Green over metal and see how well that works as Alpha Legion colours. But Akhelian over Wraithbone is most likely going to be my go to Rogue Trader uniform colours. Just so I have something to use for the Voidsmen.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 15:31 |
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as far as im concerned only 2 things matter wrt painting 1) am i having fun 2) does it look good and everything else can suck it. shortcuts are great. also #1 is a million times more important than #2, for me anyway
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 15:32 |
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jesus WEP posted:as far as im concerned only 2 things matter wrt painting I won't lie, I'm a gamer first (wargames and RPGs) and I view painting as a means to an end. I mean, I don't hate the time I do painting and I use it to catch up on shows/movies/podcasts.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 15:42 |
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:There's lots of cool stuff like that. Basecoating green over magenta looks really nice for stuff like Ork skin where you want a more organic, live look, and you can steal a page from the old masters and do undercoats of greyish green for human flesh, etc. I'm guessing this stuff is only in a bunch of random YouTube videos and there's no Color Theory for Miniature Painters book, is there?
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 16:06 |
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Floppychop posted:I won't lie, I'm a gamer first (wargames and RPGs) and I view painting as a means to an end. I mean, I don't hate the time I do painting and I use it to catch up on shows/movies/podcasts. This is why I appreciate painting for DnD rather than a war game. There are fewer models, so I can dedicate more time per model, and because some models will be rare or die in a few seconds any way I can just do a quick paint job that gets the idea across without feeling anxiety about my paint job being perfect to my standards. It also leads to a ton of variety and less burnout. I always burned out on armies, but tomorrow I might paint an owl bear, and next week I might paint a dragon turtle. It keeps things fresh for me. Yesterday I painted up a guard captain (human female fighter mini from Nolzur’s) and a dragon! Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Feb 26, 2020 |
# ? Feb 26, 2020 16:09 |
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jesus WEP posted:As far as I’m aware they work fine over any primer, your bigger issue is the airbrush - it doesn’t really do the shading magic unless you brush it on Oh yeah, I won't be using the airbrush to spray the contrast paint, I just wanted to make sure I didn't need stupid expensive primer to get the contrast magic effect.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 16:24 |
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Oh sorry I realise now you mentioned the airbrush in relation to your primer, not the contrast paint
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 16:26 |
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Dienes posted:I'm guessing this stuff is only in a bunch of random YouTube videos and there's no Color Theory for Miniature Painters book, is there? Color theory is color theory. Your medium is kinda inconsequential. James Gurney's Color and Light is exhaustive, easy to parse, and readily available. You can get it cheap online or free from your local library or their interlibrary loan program. Also, the preeminent text on painting dinosaurs.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 16:56 |
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jassi007 posted:Oh yeah, I won't be using the airbrush to spray the contrast paint, I just wanted to make sure I didn't need stupid expensive primer to get the contrast magic effect. I think people recommend the contrast primers because they’re actually good, not just ‘good despite being GW products’. For GW loyalists it’s likely the first time they’ve ever used good primer. Additionally, Trovarion on Youtube showed some really nice work done with contrast through an airbrush in his ‘I pity the fool who uses contrast paint’ video.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 17:15 |
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Getting more ghoulies done!
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 17:33 |
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Chunkystyle posted:Getting more ghoulies done! I might have missed it but how are you painting them? They look great.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 19:06 |
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I'm probably overthinking this, but I would like some advice. I am in the (slow) process of painting up a Sisters army with lots of small 5 woman squads. I know I don't need a simulacrum imperialis for every single squad, but I do think I'll need more than the 3 available (1 from the box set, 2 from a standard Sisters box). Fluff-wise I don't think I want any replica simulacra (since they're supposed to be sacred relics and all), so I was wondering what other types of things I could/should include? I have a couple of aquila banners from some Custodes and Custodes terminators, but the aquila is not really consistent with their iconography (this is the part I'm probably overthinking). Any ideas for other sources of Inquisition-y banner type material?
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 19:56 |
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# ? Jun 12, 2024 15:10 |
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Gaussian posted:I'm probably overthinking this, but I would like some advice. I am in the (slow) process of painting up a Sisters army with lots of small 5 woman squads. I know I don't need a simulacrum imperialis for every single squad, but I do think I'll need more than the 3 available (1 from the box set, 2 from a standard Sisters box). Fluff-wise I don't think I want any replica simulacra (since they're supposed to be sacred relics and all), so I was wondering what other types of things I could/should include? I have a couple of aquila banners from some Custodes and Custodes terminators, but the aquila is not really consistent with their iconography (this is the part I'm probably overthinking). Any ideas for other sources of Inquisition-y banner type material? Do you mean like the vexilla? You could definitely use that and rust it up as an ancient image. I wouldn't stress too much. Make them clearly visible and do whatever you have on hand/looks cool.
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# ? Feb 26, 2020 20:27 |