B-Nasty posted:

That would be fine, after all, that's what the plumbing is doing anyway further down the lines.

Those lines look like 3/4, so you'd be running a 1/2 pipe from a 3/4-3/4-1/2 T to a 3/8 compression valve.

edit: just clarifying, you'd be making the T connection after the tank and the flex line, not from the tank's nipple.

angryrobots posted:

Klyith posted:

You should use a silicone bath & shower sealer that says permanently flexible as a feature. Lots of movement will break the adhesion faster than decade advertised life, but you should get a lot of years out of it.

tyler posted:

Stand in the tub for 12 hours until it cures. Easy.

The Slack Lagoon posted:

So I pulled off the caulk that was there, dried it out and put new silicone caulk in, let it dry for 30hr before using the shower.

Caulk when I'm standing in the tub

Nitrox posted:

garbage disposal.

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Looks like I'll need the following to set up the Tee's:


3/4 - 3/4 - 3/4 FIP Tee

3/4 MIP - 3/4 MIP

3/4 MIP - 1/2 FIP

1/2 MIP - 3/8 compression


Should I add a valve immediately downstream of the tee?

What type of pipe/tubing do I attach to the compression fitting? Do I even have the right compression fitting style? I was planning to use this sink or something similar, and the supply lines that come with it are several feet short for what I need.

Should I seal the tapered threads with PTFE tape or sealant?

kid sinister posted:

Might be compression threads, not NPT.

NomNomNom posted:

Hoping someone can help identify this fitting. The threads are 3/4" pipe thread, but the flare part is weird. I'm hoping to add a riser/extension to the spout in order to fit my homebrew kettle underneath. Ideas?

Motronic posted:

The solder blob is visible in your second pic.

Take off the escutcheon and see what more you an see back there.

melon cat posted:

Removing the escutcheon doesn't reveal anything more helpful

Motronic posted:

....except for the obvious burn marks from when it was soldered on the last time and the actual copper pipe it's soldered to which you can now see so you know it's not actually sleeved all the way back into the wall.

GWBBQ posted:

My tub and nearby sink in my bathroom, which amount to maybe 40 square feet, have the relatively harmless but gross-looking iron-oxidizing bacteria that turns black when it eats iron and pink when it eats manganese. I'm scrubbing down and re-grouting my tub today, but I'm concerned about it coming back no matter how well I clean it (there's a bit of pink visible behind the wallpaper, does this mean I'm hosed unless I gut the room and start over or is there something I can do for the plumbing?

oXDemosthenesXo posted:

Cross post from the Fix-it-fast thread:


I want to add a utility sink to my garage and I have a few questions.

There's already water access because the hot water tank is located there. There's also a drain next to it that would be easy to connect to that luckily has had the drywall stripped back because of another project.

Can I make a T off of the input side of the hot water heater to get cold water to the utility sink? Can I also T off for hot water or does that create some weird pressure thing if I try to use mixed hot and cold water?


Drain bottom right



Valve above cold water inlet to water heater

SpartanIvy posted:

Use brass or copper fittings. Black iron contains some disgusting poo poo, and both iron and galvanized steel will rust in short order.

Secondly, the T for the gas inlet on your water heater is installed incorrectly. The T should have the gas coming in vertically from the top and pointed into the sediment trap.

SpartanIvy posted:

The gas line is a relatively easy fix if you've worked with pipes before, but honestly if it's been that way so far it's probably fine to leave as is. The logic behind having the gas line come in the top and be in line with the sediment trap is that the way you currently have it setup could allow sediment to be carried over the trap and into the burner/pilot light.

If you want to give it a go, you will need 2 wrenches (one to turn, the other to apply counter rotational force) and some pipe dope for the pipe threads. When you're working with the pipes, make sure you use the second wrench to offset the force from your first wrench so that you don't apply too much force to the thermostat and break something. The pipe dope is to create a good seal between the threads of the pipes so that no small amount of gas can escape. When you're finished make sure to test the pipe joints with soapy water and verify there are no leaks. Also, I feel like this is common sense, but make sure you TURN OFF the gas upstream from the flex hose.

e: Also looking at the picture, you will need a longer flex line to reach the top of the water heater. That's probably why the installer installed it incorrectly the first time.

Motronic posted:

I had this in the well at my old place. I installed a "whole house" water filter. They canister type that you put the filter in.

Whenever this would crop up, which was more during warm weather than cold, I'd pull the filter out and fill up the canister with peroxide. I'd run the water at each tap, both hot and cold until I smelled peroxide. Then I'd let it sit for 30 minutes.

When you turn the taps back on it spits, sputters and black death comes out (take off the faucet strainer things).

Also, if you have any sort of hot water storage like a tanked heater don't do this with hot water. I'm not quite sure how I'd handle that - I'd probably put a bypass from the cold feed to the hot on the heater and run the peroxide through that way. Not sure what you'd need to do with the water heater tank itself.

What made this MUCH better was a water softener and the green bags of solar salt (rust remover or some such).

ZombieCrew posted:

I got a problem with a urinal leaking from the top cap. I just replaced all the parts inside, the O rings on other parts, the vaccuum break, and the handle assembly. The plastic cap inside seems fine and, initially, i dont believe i over tightened it. I did later out of frustration, but had the same result. I also sanded away some minor corrosion. It leaks after about 15 flushes and makes a slight sucking sound before its a full on leak with every flush.

Any ideas on what im missing?

Fire Storm posted:

What's the best valve body to get? I've been told "No Delta" but no brand TO get.

Fire Storm posted:

A few months ago I discovered one of my shower valves was leaking. I tried to re-solder the connection but I was afraid that adding too much heat would melt the rubber in the seals, so I thought I'd take out the valve and seals but yeah, that caused more problems.


I'm not even going to attempt to repair that.

I also discovered that there are no shutoff valves for this shower until I go back to the pump, so I added a shark-bite ball valve and left it for a few months (multiple showers in the house).

What's the best valve body to get? I've been told "No Delta" but no brand TO get. Shower with tub, so I need a tub faucet and I want to stick to a single handle design. Other than that, I have absolutely no idea. Temperature control? is it worth it? Well water system if that makes a difference at all. I'd rather spend a few bucks more for quality, and precision fitting the existing holes is not a concern.

If someone else has written up a post here about different brands of faucets, I would appreciate a link.

shortspecialbus posted:

One of my toilets has started sort of leaking from the tank into the bowl and refilling itself frequently. I've tracked it down, I think - the rubber gasket at the bottom of the flushing mechanism isn't really seated, and there's no way to seat it without glue or whatever, and it gets slightly jostled every time it flushes and eventually comes partly away somewhere and water leaks in. This is a bad description but I'm not sure how to describe it better.

Picture here:

The red ring down there is the gasket and it'll eventually just slightly shift and let the water by. I've been able to fix it by sticking my hand in there and sort of pushing everything back down and then it's fine until a couple flushes later when it starts up again. I've also wiped the gasket and everything it touches down as best as possible to get rid of grime.

The assembly there is one I put in myself to replace a broken one about 3-4 years back and it's worked fine until the last few months. There's no way that I'm aware of to remove and replace that gasket without pulling the whole tank off and unscrewing the tower from the bottom, which I'm not keen to do - at that point I'd probably consider replacing the whole drat toilet because I'm sick of fixing this one.

Anyone have any ideas?