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Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang

jesus WEP posted:

Oh so he works for GW and his painting videos don’t follow the GW gospel, gotcha.

Corporate for the Corporate Gods!

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Ellaybee
Jun 17, 2005

swampcow posted:

So I've got a wet palette coming in the mail, but I'm not sure how to control paint thickness on it. For Citadel paints, do I still need to add water if I dab some on the palette?

Every wet palette I’ve used, from homemade to Masterson’s to Red Grass, is at least slightly different. Other stuff like local humidity will affect them too. For each of them I’ve still thinned them with additional water to varying degrees. They won’t automatically bring any brand of paint to optimal viscosity; you’ll get a feel for it but you’ll have to experiment.

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free
Using my best friend, Materials Test Man, i'm following a technique i saw on instagram for ghosts/ice/etc



Don't have a yellow wash to "ghosify" it but it's very cool anyway

Original post:

quote:

base coat mechanicum standard grey, coat in nikhil (?) oxide technical paint, waywatcher green glaze, drybrush white, waywatcher green glaze, drybrush zenith points white, lamenters yellow glaze on the zenith points. Don’t overdo the yellow as it will tone it down I’ve found on other pieces



Two Headed Calf
Feb 22, 2005

Better than One
Kitty.



Now two questions: How do I paint this dang thing? Where can I get 60mm bases in the US that don't cost an arm and a leg?

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...
So in the last couple of weeks, I've been considering getting an airbrush, but I'm still on the fence about it.
One of the big reasons why I want to get one is because I want to be able to prime miniatures without having to worry about the humidity when using a rattle-can. In addition to that, I find that when I use a rattlecan, I can never get a 100% coverage of the whole model (some of that may be tied to how I set things up when using the rattlecan, but I have trouble getting at areas that are on the underside of a model.)

Apart from priming, I also thought it would be useful for doing basecoats, be it for larger things like vehicles, or regular minis. A while back, I remember seeing stencil sheets that I thought would make for cool patterns on a Rhino or some other kind of tank, and I've thought to do some color transitions with certain things. One thing I thought of today to do with a brush was to do a zenithal lighting with a mix of off-white or light color paints to see how they work with Contrast paints.

The entry-level brush seems to be the Badger Patriot 105. However, a while back someone recommended the Paasche H, citing that it was good brush for doing what I described above, and it was resilient in that if it wasn't cleaned properly or suffered a bit of abuse (i.e. if I dropped it), it would hold up fine. I was leaning towards that one, but I'm wondering if the Patriot 105 would be a better choice, in regards to maybe being a bit more suited for mini work.

The compressor we have know is a pancake compressor, which from what I've read, is not suited for an airbrush. One of the videos on airbrushes I watched the other day linked this compressor as a suitable choice. It looks like a lot of them get really pricey, but have the benefit of running quietly. I plan to use it out in the shed, so noise is not really a priority.

I don't know if I really need a painting booth or not. One thing I heard about with the Patriot 105 is that the airhose connector is 'proprietary,' so you need an adapter in some cases.

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?
Buglord

Two Headed Calf posted:

Kitty.



Now two questions: How do I paint this dang thing? Where can I get 60mm bases in the US that don't cost an arm and a leg?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/40K-IG-Cadian-Heavy-Weapons-Base-60mm-Round-Base-Bits/383386163902?hash=item5943989abe:g:MUcAAOSwEdteKgiL

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Max Wilco posted:

So in the last couple of weeks, I've been considering getting an airbrush, but I'm still on the fence about it.
One of the big reasons why I want to get one is because I want to be able to prime miniatures without having to worry about the humidity when using a rattle-can. In addition to that, I find that when I use a rattlecan, I can never get a 100% coverage of the whole model (some of that may be tied to how I set things up when using the rattlecan, but I have trouble getting at areas that are on the underside of a model.)

Apart from priming, I also thought it would be useful for doing basecoats, be it for larger things like vehicles, or regular minis. A while back, I remember seeing stencil sheets that I thought would make for cool patterns on a Rhino or some other kind of tank, and I've thought to do some color transitions with certain things. One thing I thought of today to do with a brush was to do a zenithal lighting with a mix of off-white or light color paints to see how they work with Contrast paints.

The entry-level brush seems to be the Badger Patriot 105. However, a while back someone recommended the Paasche H, citing that it was good brush for doing what I described above, and it was resilient in that if it wasn't cleaned properly or suffered a bit of abuse (i.e. if I dropped it), it would hold up fine. I was leaning towards that one, but I'm wondering if the Patriot 105 would be a better choice, in regards to maybe being a bit more suited for mini work.

The compressor we have know is a pancake compressor, which from what I've read, is not suited for an airbrush. One of the videos on airbrushes I watched the other day linked this compressor as a suitable choice. It looks like a lot of them get really pricey, but have the benefit of running quietly. I plan to use it out in the shed, so noise is not really a priority.

I don't know if I really need a painting booth or not. One thing I heard about with the Patriot 105 is that the airhose connector is 'proprietary,' so you need an adapter in some cases.

At some point I’m going to just make an airbrush thread since the same questions keep coming up here and in the modeling thread...

If you’re in the US get the patriot 105, it’s cheap, reliable, and easy to get parts and service for. The hose adapter costs eight bucks on amazon, or four if you go find it at Home Depot.
If you want to save a bit, sign up for USA airbrush newsletter and wait for one of their sale coupons. You should be able to get the 105 for around $60 shipped.

If you’re outside the US then the Paasche might be a better deal as they’re more readily available.

The generally recommended compressor is the TC40T, but the one you list there is probably the same thing with a different label on it and I’m sure it will be fine for mini work.

Torquemada
Oct 21, 2010

Drei Gläser
I would also add that unless you’re in a swamp humidity has almost no effect on rattle primer. This presupposes that you have decent primer: I couldn’t get decent flat coverage out of Citadel Corax white at gun point, but Vallejo white rattle can goes on without a hitch.

If you attach your mini to a stick you can twist it every which way while priming to get at the hard to reach bits. Alternatively you can use blue tac or putty to cover the glue points and prime the whole sprue before you even clip the bits off.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Torquemada posted:

Alternatively you can use blue tac or putty to cover the glue points and prime the whole sprue before you even clip the bits off.
i have never liked this idea because often the bits you clip end up as visible parts of the model and what, you just prime them again after clipping them off?

Torquemada
Oct 21, 2010

Drei Gläser
Sorry yes, I should clarify that that applies to models with a high surface area to contact point ratio. If you have a big area to cover and three sprue points to go over with liquid primer, it’s worthwhile. Small models, or ones with lots of mould lines or sprue points it’s not worth it.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_2LG4y7U28
Duncan has uploaded his first new painting guide on his channel and outside of slightly murky model lighting I have to say it's very reminiscent of his older WHTV guides with some extra details.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



I decided to give the Golden Acrylics brand of paints a try since they're relatively cheap at Blick and you get a full oz for ~$4. I picked up the yellow ochre and red oxide colors, and they're decent but not really suited for miniatures. Both go on fairly glossy, and the ochre in particular requires many coats to get even coverage. Using a matte varnish takes them down perfectly, but I wouldn't recommend this particular brand based off these two colors. That being said I'll continue to use them since they're definitely workable.

As for other non-miniature specific paint, I've found Liquitex to be pretty solid. Some of the colors are fairly glossy, but if you're looking for colors for mixing (RGB/Black/White) they're a great way to get a huge amount of those colors for a relatively small amount of money. They come in at around $6-$7 per 2oz bottle, which if you're buying from a store like Michael's and using their daily 40% off one item coupon means you can pick up 2oz of high quality paint for around $4.

Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Mar 3, 2020

Grundma
Mar 26, 2007

DOG controls your destiny. Seek out three items of his favor and then seek his shrine.

Verisimilidude posted:

I decided to give the Golden Acrylics brand of paints a try since they're relatively cheap at Blick and you get a full oz for ~$4. I picked up the yellow ochre and red oxide colors, and they're decent but not really suited for miniatures. Both go on fairly glossy, and the ochre in particular requires many coats to get even coverage. Using a matte varnish takes them down perfectly, but I wouldn't recommend this particular brand based off these two colors. That being said I'll continue to use them since they're definitely workable.

As for other non-miniature specific paint, I've found Liquitex to be pretty solid. Some of the colors are fairly glossy, but if you're looking for colors for mixing (RGB/Black/White) they're a great way to get a huge amount of those colors for a relatively small amount of money. They come in at around $6-$7 per 2oz bottle, which if you're buying from a store like Michael's and using their daily 40% off one item coupon means you can pick up 2oz of high quality paint for around $4.

Thanks for posting this. I've been wondering about cheaper paints for painting larger kits/terrain so its always good to see peoples thoughts

Communist Thoughts
Jan 7, 2008

Our war against free speech cannot end until we silence this bronze beast!


Bucnasti posted:



The generally recommended compressor is the TC40T, but the one you list there is probably the same thing with a different label on it and I’m sure it will be fine for mini work.

Anybody know a good alternative to this compressor in the UK? They dont seem to sell that here.

E or just general UK airbrush stuff, all the American recommendations are either not sold or a $100 bit of kit is £120

Ilor
Feb 2, 2008

That's a crit.

Two Headed Calf posted:

Kitty.



Now two questions: How do I paint this dang thing? Where can I get 60mm bases in the US that don't cost an arm and a leg?

Here is your bar:

Good luck.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Communist Thoughts posted:

Anybody know a good alternative to this compressor in the UK? They dont seem to sell that here.

E or just general UK airbrush stuff, all the American recommendations are either not sold or a $100 bit of kit is £120
I realise that this is a lot of money to drop but i think this is a hell of a deal for the quality of the compressor: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Sparmax-AC-501X.html#SID=2025

considering amazon lists it at £200 and it seems to be about $275 on any US sites. I bought one around Christmas and it does a great job for me.

Amp
Sep 10, 2010

:11tea::bubblewoop::agesilaus::megaman::yoshi::squawk::supaburn::iit::spooky::axe::honked::shroom::smugdog::sg::pkmnwhy::parrot::screamy::tubular::corsair::sanix::yeeclaw::hayter::flip::redflag:
Do people in mini painting use Future Floor Acrylic (or Pledge Floor Care Gloss) and flat base as a varnish? I've done it with airbrushed gunpla before and it seemed to have turned out okay.

Or should I just go to the friendly local hobby shop and grab some proper varnishes?

Suzaku
Feb 15, 2012

ShallNoiseUpon posted:

Do people in mini painting use Future Floor Acrylic (or Pledge Floor Care Gloss) and flat base as a varnish? I've done it with airbrushed gunpla before and it seemed to have turned out okay.

Or should I just go to the friendly local hobby shop and grab some proper varnishes?

That works just fine. If you're already used to mixing it up and have the future and flat base, go for it. If you want to go with a canned flat base because you find yourself doing one off minis that you don't want to use the airbrush with, I really like Testors Dullcote.

Communist Thoughts
Jan 7, 2008

Our war against free speech cannot end until we silence this bronze beast!


jesus WEP posted:

I realise that this is a lot of money to drop but i think this is a hell of a deal for the quality of the compressor: https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Sparmax-AC-501X.html#SID=2025

considering amazon lists it at £200 and it seems to be about $275 on any US sites. I bought one around Christmas and it does a great job for me.

Thanks! That's the one I was looking at but on amazon. That's 60 quid that can go on more tiny fellas to paint

Communist Thoughts fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Mar 4, 2020

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

ShallNoiseUpon posted:

Do people in mini painting use Future Floor Acrylic (or Pledge Floor Care Gloss) and flat base as a varnish? I've done it with airbrushed gunpla before and it seemed to have turned out okay.

Or should I just go to the friendly local hobby shop and grab some proper varnishes?

If im trying to seal something that I know I'm going to handle a lot I still use future+dullcoat. For normal minis i just use mecha flat now.

JBP
Feb 16, 2017

You've got to know, to understand,
Baby, take me by my hand,
I'll lead you to the promised land.
How's my blanchitsu? I reckon I should forge ahead with the next 79 guys... This probably took me 15 minutes from start to finish.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009

ShallNoiseUpon posted:

Do people in mini painting use Future Floor Acrylic (or Pledge Floor Care Gloss) and flat base as a varnish? I've done it with airbrushed gunpla before and it seemed to have turned out okay.

Future and Liquitex matte varnish are what I use. Testors or others might be a little flatter in final result, but Dullcote gets pretty pricey for those little cans.

Amp
Sep 10, 2010

:11tea::bubblewoop::agesilaus::megaman::yoshi::squawk::supaburn::iit::spooky::axe::honked::shroom::smugdog::sg::pkmnwhy::parrot::screamy::tubular::corsair::sanix::yeeclaw::hayter::flip::redflag:

darnon posted:

Future and Liquitex matte varnish are what I use. Testors or others might be a little flatter in final result, but Dullcote gets pretty pricey for those little cans.


Luckily I don't paint fast enough to go through cans too fast!

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"
GOLDEN Acrylics are my go to brand, but they def require some time to figure out. Its hard to recommend them because I spent the first few months of mini painting loving around and figuring out what paint is rather than actually painting. That and I don’t mind glossy paints.

Their high flow transparents, N5 grey, titan buff, and heavy body titanium white have been the most useful for mini painting for me.

Sadly, their zinc white comes from ore that contains trace amounts of lead and cadmium and thus is not safe for spraying.

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

Serenade posted:

GOLDEN Acrylics are my go to brand, but they def require some time to figure out. Its hard to recommend them because I spent the first few months of mini painting loving around and figuring out what paint is rather than actually painting. That and I don’t mind glossy paints.

Their high flow transparents, N5 grey, titan buff, and heavy body titanium white have been the most useful for mini painting for me.

Sadly, their zinc white comes from ore that contains trace amounts of lead and cadmium and thus is not safe for spraying.

I like their fluorescents a lot

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Serenade posted:

GOLDEN Acrylics are my go to brand, but they def require some time to figure out. Its hard to recommend them because I spent the first few months of mini painting loving around and figuring out what paint is rather than actually painting. That and I don’t mind glossy paints.

Their high flow transparents, N5 grey, titan buff, and heavy body titanium white have been the most useful for mini painting for me.

Sadly, their zinc white comes from ore that contains trace amounts of lead and cadmium and thus is not safe for spraying.

I should have mentioned that they did flow very well, but I was not impressed with the coverage. I'm gonna continue messing around with what I bought so far, but unless I have a coupon I'll probably settle for Reaper paints or GW, since that's all I have access to.

Communist Thoughts
Jan 7, 2008

Our war against free speech cannot end until we silence this bronze beast!


Sorry for more airbrush chat but I'm looking at the Harder & Steenbeck ultra cause its fairly cheap and looks like a good entry brush.

Does anyone know what the difference between the standard ultra and the 2 in 1 is?
I have no idea what 2 in 1 refers to here

Big Willy Style
Feb 11, 2007

How many Astartes do you know that roll like this?

JBP posted:

How's my blanchitsu? I reckon I should forge ahead with the next 79 guys... This probably took me 15 minutes from start to finish.



Its just all brown at the moment. I would do thr lower cloth dirty yellow or bone colour and upper cloth brown. And maybe consider doing thr skulls red for some contrast?

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

Communist Thoughts posted:

Sorry for more airbrush chat but I'm looking at the Harder & Steenbeck ultra cause its fairly cheap and looks like a good entry brush.

Does anyone know what the difference between the standard ultra and the 2 in 1 is?
I have no idea what 2 in 1 refers to here

You get two nozzle and needle sets for different spray sizes.

Communist Thoughts
Jan 7, 2008

Our war against free speech cannot end until we silence this bronze beast!


grassy gnoll posted:

You get two nozzle and needle sets for different spray sizes.

Thanks that makes sense

JBP
Feb 16, 2017

You've got to know, to understand,
Baby, take me by my hand,
I'll lead you to the promised land.

Big Willy Style posted:

Its just all brown at the moment. I would do thr lower cloth dirty yellow or bone colour and upper cloth brown. And maybe consider doing thr skulls red for some contrast?

I'm not really looking for strong contrasts and stuff since I'm using the old vampire counts art as a guide in general. The reds and yellows show up better to the eye I think that's a crappy photo. The models are basically yellow, orange then brown before using a red earth pigment to add red to the bottom of the ragged cloaks. It's got to be a fast process. I got another eight done in about 90 minutes.

Big Willy Style
Feb 11, 2007

How many Astartes do you know that roll like this?
That looks better take better photos next time champ

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

I fuckin love em

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Bucnasti posted:

At some point I’m going to just make an airbrush thread since the same questions keep coming up here and in the modeling thread...

If you’re in the US get the patriot 105, it’s cheap, reliable, and easy to get parts and service for. The hose adapter costs eight bucks on amazon, or four if you go find it at Home Depot.
If you want to save a bit, sign up for USA airbrush newsletter and wait for one of their sale coupons. You should be able to get the 105 for around $60 shipped.

If you’re outside the US then the Paasche might be a better deal as they’re more readily available.

The generally recommended compressor is the TC40T, but the one you list there is probably the same thing with a different label on it and I’m sure it will be fine for mini work.

I'm in the US, so I guess the Patriot is probably the way to go.

The TC40T seems a little pricey ($200 on Amazon), so I'll stick to the $80 one. However, if I find I really take to airbrushing, I can always upgrade in the future.

Communist Thoughts posted:

Sorry for more airbrush chat but I'm looking at the Harder & Steenbeck ultra cause its fairly cheap and looks like a good entry brush.

How does the Harder & Steenback Ultra compare with the Patriot 105?

jassi007
Aug 9, 2006

mmmmm.. burger...

Max Wilco posted:

I'm in the US, so I guess the Patriot is probably the way to go.

The TC40T seems a little pricey ($200 on Amazon), so I'll stick to the $80 one. However, if I find I really take to airbrushing, I can always upgrade in the future.


That is not the TC-40T that you linked, but funny enough it does not appear to exist on Amazon anymore. I just bought one in December so no idea what the hell happened. Coronovirus maybe?

ThoraxTheImpaler
Aug 13, 2014

CONDESCENDING
ASSHOLE
There's just something about robes over power armor and winged helmets that just looks so drat cool.







Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Max Wilco posted:


How does the Harder & Steenback Ultra compare with the Patriot 105?
I’ve never used a H&S, but everyone who has says they’re dreamy. They also tend to be pretty expensive, and although I’m not opposed to paying for quality I feel like I get more bang for my buck with Badger brushes.

Chunkystyle
Sep 7, 2018

JBP posted:

I'm not really looking for strong contrasts and stuff since I'm using the old vampire counts art as a guide in general. The reds and yellows show up better to the eye I think that's a crappy photo. The models are basically yellow, orange then brown before using a red earth pigment to add red to the bottom of the ragged cloaks. It's got to be a fast process. I got another eight done in about 90 minutes.



Nice! These are really sweet, nailed that Blanche artstyle. I assume that bases aren't done yet?

JBP
Feb 16, 2017

You've got to know, to understand,
Baby, take me by my hand,
I'll lead you to the promised land.

Chunkystyle posted:

Nice! These are really sweet, nailed that Blanche artstyle. I assume that bases aren't done yet?

Yeah I'm not sure how to do the bases yet. I did one with the same tones but it blends a bit too much. Maybe black or something.

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R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013
I finished up my second warhound! Not totally happy with the stripes, but it is the first time I have done that sort of thing so I expect I will get better.

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