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Sorry, it's a 1990 Chevy Suburban. Fluid is all brand new, and I did indeed jack up the front of the truck to do the bleed procedure. Side to side slowly about 50 times the first time, never let the fluid get low. May or may not matter, but the fluid doesn't look or smell funky and I get absolutely no sign of bubbles. I'll try bleeding it again since it's free and a hell of a lot easier than replacing the box. That GM procedure is what I've followed every time I've done one of these in the past and I hadn't encountered this particular problem before. I'm hoping it's just being stubborn and there's an air pocket somewhere, but I've had a bad box before (that one was noticeable though, I could wiggle the sector shaft by hand) from Autozone. Thanks for bearing with me. Is there any other info I need to add?
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Mar 6, 2020 21:28
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If the fluid looks good I'm hoping the other box wasn't bad in a way that it trashed your new pump, so that's decent news. But yeah.....if I were in your position and had done the things you've done I'd be looking at another box as my next step. Lots of rebuilds are complete poo poo.
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Mar 6, 2020 21:31
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I always replace the fluid when I put a new component into the system and the stuff I took out didn't look bad at all (considering it was only a week old, I'm not surprised). Thanks for reinforcing my suspicions lol. I'll give bleeding one more try and then chuck another box at it. Someday it'll probably piss me off enough to buy a real box and not an Autozone one.
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Mar 6, 2020 21:47
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Motronic posted:Lots of rebuilds are complete poo poo. This can't be emphasized enough
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Mar 6, 2020 22:41
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A Small Car posted:Sorry, it's a 1990 Chevy Suburban. Fluid is all brand new, and I did indeed jack up the front of the truck to do the bleed procedure. Side to side slowly about 50 times the first time, never let the fluid get low. May or may not matter, but the fluid doesn't look or smell funky and I get absolutely no sign of bubbles. I'll try bleeding it again since it's free and a hell of a lot easier than replacing the box. That GM procedure is what I've followed every time I've done one of these in the past and I hadn't encountered this particular problem before. I'm hoping it's just being stubborn and there's an air pocket somewhere, but I've had a bad box before (that one was noticeable though, I could wiggle the sector shaft by hand) from Autozone. Thanks for bearing with me. Is there any other info I need to add? I personally have a 1991 Chevy Suburban, I can tell you now almost all of the remans are garbage for these trucks, they all have slop at this point as they just reseal and send them on their way regardless of the milage. I went through 7 before buying a new box. Also the bleed procedure just consists of topping off the pump as it runs low and cranking it back and forth a time or two so something is broken. I got my box from SteerCo which looks like is now AGR Performance. https://www.agrperformance.com/ You could try giving them a call if you want to get a new box (They don't list all their boxes online). Does it look like the fluid is circulating when it's running? The fluid level should drop when it's started as well. (you can safely pull the cap off on these when it's running) Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Mar 6, 2020 |
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Mar 6, 2020 23:48
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Yeah, the steering system in my C10 is pretty much the same. Even with as detailed as that bleed process is, the reality is they aren't that hard to bleed (I went way too long with leaky power steering boxes on mine). If it's fighting you I wouldn't even think about it, I'd yank that poo poo off and exchange it.
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Mar 7, 2020 00:22
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Autoexec.bat posted:I personally have a 1991 Chevy Suburban, I can tell you now almost all of the remans are garbage for these trucks, they all have slop at this point as they just reseal and send them on their way regardless of the milage. I went through 7 before buying a new box. Also the bleed procedure just consists of topping off the pump as it runs low and cranking it back and forth a time or two so something is broken. I got my box from SteerCo which looks like is now AGR Performance. https://www.agrperformance.com/ You could try giving them a call if you want to get a new box (They don't list all their boxes online). IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, the steering system in my C10 is pretty much the same. Even with as detailed as that bleed process is, the reality is they aren't that hard to bleed (I went way too long with leaky power steering boxes on mine). If it's fighting you I wouldn't even think about it, I'd yank that poo poo off and exchange it. You guys both make me feel a lot better about what I've been doing. The fluid is definitely circulating - I cracked the lines with the truck running and it sprayed everywhere (no air in the fluid though). I'll probably just throw another box at it tomorrow morning (I'll still bleed it one more time) and order a new one down the road. AGR is actually who I was thinking of going with, so thanks for the link! IOC, that's been the truck's default state for about a decade until I started doing some serious work to it. I kinda miss the leaking, it let me know what was working.
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Mar 7, 2020 01:14
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rdb posted:Aluminum melts at around 1200F. Dunno what EGTs a 92 ram van runs, but 1200F is like the start of “high” for a diesel. A big long grade might get there towing max weight. A blast down the drag strip with a lovely tune might get you 1600-1800F. On an unladen van, you probably wont reach either number. Thats also exhaust gas temp, not the temperature of the manifold itself. So theoretically you won’t melt it. I have patched exhaust before the catalyst on lovely cars (coincidentally also a dodge) and not had issues. I ended up just stuffing a six layer chunk of can in there and driving directly to my destination; I pulled the part to check it and it was ..... mildly sooty, and slightly bowed out from pressure. So the answer to how long it will last is "enough" I guess. Neat!
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Mar 7, 2020 01:24
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A Small Car posted:You guys both make me feel a lot better about what I've been doing. The fluid is definitely circulating - I cracked the lines with the truck running and it sprayed everywhere (no air in the fluid though). I'll probably just throw another box at it tomorrow morning (I'll still bleed it one more time) and order a new one down the road. AGR is actually who I was thinking of going with, so thanks for the link! IOC, that's been the truck's default state for about a decade until I started doing some serious work to it. I kinda miss the leaking, it let me know what was working. I will say that depending on what's leaking, it's actually not that bad a job to repair. The output shaft seal on my WJ was leaking and it turns out the redneck way of disassembling it is super effective. Instead of pulling it all apart from the inside... you remove the nut and circlips and whatnot holding the seal in, then fire it up and crank the wheel hard over and let the pressure blow the seal clean out. I'm starting to get some seepage on my TJ's box. But given that it has ~200k I'm more tempted to jump to a replacement box.
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Mar 7, 2020 01:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Instead of pulling it all apart from the inside... you remove the nut and circlips and whatnot holding the seal in, then fire it up and crank the wheel hard over and let the pressure blow the seal clean out. Now THAT is some true Redneckian Riggardry 
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Mar 7, 2020 10:09
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Its like the equivalent of emptying a truck box by reverse, > floor that poo poo!!! > Stomp on brakes!
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Mar 7, 2020 16:38
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So I have a solar panel wired up to a charge controller to keep my batteries topped up - I have two cars, and work from home, but don’t have a garage. My question is twofold - one, the charge controllers never leave equalization mode, and I’m wondering if this could be harming the batteries? (One battery is <year old and has recently seemed weak). Two, could I just hook the panel up without the controller? They’re pretty small - I think 1.5a - so while I know you’re supposed to have the controller, I’m not sure it’s really necessary here.
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Mar 8, 2020 00:14
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Krakkles posted:So I have a solar panel wired up to a charge controller to keep my batteries topped up - I have two cars, and work from home, but don’t have a garage. I don't know if it's the right things to do, but I've had a small solar panel charger directly connected to the battery and mounted in my dump trailer for 3? years now. It just works - keeps that big rear end deep cycle charged fine and hasn't cooked it off or anything nasty.
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Mar 8, 2020 00:20
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e: damnit.
BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Mar 8, 2020 |
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Mar 8, 2020 01:09
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I'm sure I'll have to post a thread about this, but I have a series of stupid questions. My first car was a 1987 El Camino Conquista, which I inherited with 50k miles around 2000 or so. I still have it, after a fashion, and love it very much. It was bone stock, with a 305 that sipped gas and a 3-on-the-tree in it. It was a wonderful car. I bought a Ranger to go to college with and left the car. My younger brother, God love him, inherited the car while I was away. We're okay now but we didn't have the best relationship then but I can say that he kind of ruined the car. Notably it will no longer pass smog. Here is a list of changes that he made: -Stock motor gone and who knows where. Put a crate 350 in it. -Took it to someone that did a dodgy as gently caress transmission swap(?), or did something to the transmission. It could be hosed. -Didn't upgrade the rear end to take the extra power. May still not have positraction. -Stock wheels gone, now sitting on rally-ish wheels (king of like them) -Stock hood is off but still there, put a scoop hood on it (okay I kind of like this) -Covered EVERYTHING interior in tweed. Not reupholstered the original velour, covered. As in seats (fair enough), dash, headliner, door panels. Everything. Here it is as it sits today, at my parent's house. Probably filled with mouse poo poo and spiders:  SO, my questions: 1) Do I need to drop $$$$$$$ on a crate 305 to get it to smog again, or will fuel injection on the 350 help with that. 2) If I can/have to leave the 350 in it, how do I know if the transmission/rear end are up to it? 3) How much can I do myself, as a guess? I was on my school's Formula team and I'm a mechanical engineer, but I haven't ever really been a car guy. 4) Any other options/ideas/opinions are welcome. I would be putting this in our two car garage and parking my daily driver in the driveway. My mom says sell the thing and my wife says keep it. I'd rather not get a storage unit just for this loving car. Target Practice fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Mar 8, 2020 |
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Mar 8, 2020 22:27
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What state are you in? Get casting numbers off the block and heads. Post some pics of under the hood. If you can locate information find out what cam is in it. Maybe it can pass if its a stock truck 350, maybe not. Its not rotted out. Don’t sell it. Thats a classic. Worst case you can swap an LS with all its emissions stuff into it. Or maybe a cummins r2.8. Either way that one is worth saving.
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Mar 8, 2020 23:00
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rdb posted:What state are you in? And adjacent to this, why is it failing emissions - is it failing a sniffer test, or is it failing some visual inspection? The 305 and 350 are identical other than cylinder bore, so properly equipped there's no reason the 350 shouldn't pass emissions. Unless said 350 actually had some real money thrown at it, it probably doesn't make more power than what the rear end it came with could handle.
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Mar 9, 2020 00:08
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Welp, I'm definitely keeping it, I just hope I'm not getting into something over my dumb head. It will fit in my garage but just barely. My DD will live outside for now I guess. I Have Made Space: 
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Mar 9, 2020 04:44
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What state do you live in? And how is it failing? If it's failing the sniffer, get us the results. A lot of that can probably be fixed with tuning the carb, chasing down vacuum leaks, and making sure all emissions equipment is there. EFI will make it easier to pass (so long as you're not in a super strict state), but that's a bit of work. It may need a new catalytic converter, it may not. The emissions numbers will tell a lot.
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Mar 9, 2020 16:49
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I got a 1997 Ford F250 HD with power locks. What would be the best way to add keyless entry to it? Yes it has the heavier duty no-nylon door lock levers for this. A PO added an alarm system that didn't work by the time I got it and have since removed. When I search for stuff like this, I come up with kits that include the actuators for cars that don't have power locks.
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Mar 9, 2020 17:12
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By adding an alarm.  Viper still makes a basic keyless entry system, so does Avital. But an alarm will cost about the same.Talk to a local car audio shop; most of them also do keyless entry, alarms, remote start, etc. If you're up for the wiring, you can get the Avital keyless entry (non-alarm) system here. The install guide is aimed more at a pro, but since it had an alarm before, the wiring has all been tapped into already - you just need to figure out which wires get pulsed for lock and unlock and how it gets pulsed (positive or negative). The wiring should be dead simple on that truck, since a 97 F-250 is still on the 9th generation platform (97 F-150 went to the 10th gen platform, the HD trucks didn't until the 98 model year.. I think the BCM and such got a little more complex on those).
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Mar 9, 2020 17:25
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I'm trying to remember if the 9th gens all had keyless or not. Pretty sure 10th gens all did, and all you needed were remotes. I think on the 9th gens you should be able to remove the trim below the steering wheel and, if I recall......it's to the right of the column and the box says keyless entry on it. If you don't have that you'll probably have the wiring at least and you can probably just get one of those boxes from the scrap yard and some factory key fobs.
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Mar 9, 2020 17:34
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Fairly sure it's the 10th gen that got it standard (at least on the XLT and above), and even then only if you didn't get the fleet version of the XL. Stepdad's 92 XLT certainly didn't have keyfobs, but it did have the keypad on the driver's door. But if it's as simple as adding the factory box and tracking down 24-29 year old fobs, that might be cheaper. Definitely easier.... again, if you can find the fobs. (did they use the same fobs on the 10th gen? if so, that'll make it a lot easier, those are a dime a dozen on ebay) Also, Motronic, you might know this better than anyone else here - being a 97 9th gen, did they retain the 9th gen wiring overall, or did they convert some of it to 10th gen in the 9th gen body? I know the OBD2 conversion made some things one-year-only on the 96 F-150, though I'm not even sure if the superduty trucks got OBD2 until the 10th gen changeover - I know some heavier duty trucks were exempt for a bit. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Mar 9, 2020 |
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Mar 9, 2020 18:35
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STR posted:Also, Motronic, you might know this better than anyone else here - being a 97 9th gen, did they retain the 9th gen wiring overall, or did they convert some of it to 10th gen in the 9th gen body? I know the OBD2 conversion made some things one-year-only on the 96 F-150, though I'm not even sure if the superduty trucks got OBD2 until the 10th gen changeover - I know some heavier duty trucks were exempt for a bit. They are ODB-1 from what I remember - Ford did what you said and got to push this off for 2 extra years by claiming they were not "light duty trucks", thus the weird split with the 10th gen F250 and 9th gen F250-HD/F350 in 97.
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Mar 9, 2020 19:27
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Yep, the Heavy Duty was that weird 9th gen continuation into the 10th gen. I looked under the dash panel and didn't have that box or the hookups for one. The plugs looked pretty substantial from the video on YouTube that I saw for 9th gen trucks. The plugs looked big enough that they couldn't have been poked out of the way somewhere under the dash. Hey, I had an idea... Remote starts have key fobs. Would one of those kits work?
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Mar 9, 2020 19:33
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kid sinister posted:Hey, I had an idea... Remote starts have key fobs. Would one of those kits work? Yep. And alarms, etc, etc. As long as you can find the wire under there to trip the locks. I seem to remember something dumb about the 9th gen that pos/neg was backwards to other models for lock/unlock so if you don't have an alarm/remote start that can handle that you may need to put in a relay.
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Mar 9, 2020 19:41
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Again, you're basically looking at an aftermarket alarm install. The remote start versions of aftermarket alarms don't cost a whole lot more, but they do require considerably more wiring - so installation will be a bit more involved. And if you use remote start, you'll have to learn a certain song and dance with the brake pedal, ignition switch, and remote to keep it from going into "gently caress you" mode when you hop in to your nice warm/cold truck. That dance varies depending on brand, how old it is, phase of the moon, etc. You can get a stand-alone remote start unit, but they don't necessarily include keyless entry. An all in one (alarm/keyless entry/remote start) from a Directed brand (Viper, Avital, etc) is the easiest solution. Start looking up reviews for locally owned car audio shops in your area if you're not up for tackling the wiring (hint: 99% of us aren't; I wouldn't do it myself, and I consider myself very comfortable with vehicle electrical - the only people in here i'd trust to do it are Motronic and Darchangel, maybe kastein if he didn't wind up getting pissed off and bulldozing his house of Theseus on top of the truck when diagrams didn't match up). Motronic posted:Yep. And alarms, etc, etc. As long as you can find the wire under there to trip the locks. Since it had a previous alarm install, I'd bet those wires are already tapped into; relay may even be there already. And I'd hope any modern name brand alarm (Directed's massive collection of brands, basically) can handle the reversed wiring. Darchangel, you here? You have any input?
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Mar 9, 2020 19:55
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STR posted:What state do you live in? And how is it failing? If it's failing the sniffer, get us the results. A lot of that can probably be fixed with tuning the carb, chasing down vacuum leaks, and making sure all emissions equipment is there. I'm in CA.
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Mar 9, 2020 19:55
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So you're hosed, but it's not impossible. You need all of the original factory emissions equipment, including the original catalytic converter (or a CARB certified replacement). Don't even think about EFI unless some variant of it came with factory EFI. You need it to look like it just left the factory when it comes to underhood equipment. If the cat is bad, catalytic converter replacements have to be either the original one from GM (lol good luck), or one with a CARB exemption. Every aftermarket piece needs a CARB exemption number - either stamped on the part, on a sticker on the part, or on the paperwork that came with it. You can probably sneak the 350 through, since they're visually identical to a 305. California can be really stupid; they'll pass stuff that pollutes like hell, but won't pass stuff that runs many times cleaner (i.e. a LSx swap into your car) unless it's been certified.
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Mar 9, 2020 20:04
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Target Practice posted:I'm in CA. Last I checked you're supposed to use original emissions equipment, so converting to EFI would require you to get CARB certification or something.
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Mar 9, 2020 20:05
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So something like this for the cat? https://www.hottexhaust.com/Magnaflow_332456 Is there a way for me.to search for a list of the emission equipmen? I mean I know some things like the converter obviously.
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Mar 9, 2020 20:38
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Again, list the reasons why it was failed. Without that we're just guessing. California is incredibly strict, and even after everything is done, you may still have to go to a referee. Since it's not a daily driver, you might shoot for a historical vehicle registration. I'm not sure what requirements are for those in CA, but I'd imagine they're a little more relaxed. Give it 2 more years and you'll be able to get an antique registration, which is even more relaxed. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Mar 9, 2020 |
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Mar 9, 2020 20:40
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Has the federal government outlawed CARB yet though?
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Mar 9, 2020 20:43
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STR posted:Since it's not a daily driver, you might shoot for a historical vehicle registration. I'm not sure what requirements are for those in CA, but I'd imagine they're a little more relaxed. Give it 2 more years and you'll be able to get an antique registration, which is even more relaxed. LOL Jesus really? I mean I guess it is over 30 years old.
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Mar 9, 2020 20:45
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I took my 2004 Sonata to get an oil change a month ago. They found oil leaking and replaced the valve cover gasket. I noticed my car running very low on oil two weeks later and they found that my PCV valve and cam plug needed to be replaced. That was Wednesday. My car was running hot over the weekend and today I looked under and saw more oil leaking. What's left that could be causing this leak?
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Mar 9, 2020 21:37
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WerthersWay posted:I took my 2004 Sonata to get an oil change a month ago. They found oil leaking and replaced the valve cover gasket. I noticed my car running very low on oil two weeks later and they found that my PCV valve and cam plug needed to be replaced. That was Wednesday. My car was running hot over the weekend and today I looked under and saw more oil leaking. That list includes at least a dozen things. Probably more. It also isn't likely to have anything to do with your car running hot, unless something particularly lovely has happened: bad head gasket. Check both the oil and coolant for contamination with the other and if they look good clean the motor and run it to see where it's leaking from.
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Mar 9, 2020 21:56
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Motronic posted:That list includes at least a dozen things. Probably more. Just curious as an auto idiot, why would low oil not not have something to do with it running hot? I've had this car for 6 years, no overheating problems ever and I'm always right on top of oil changes. But a couple months ago after ~3,000 miles, my mechanic said I should start bringing it in every 600 miles (if oil checks didn't have me in earlier) because the old engine was running hot and my oil was black. And by overheating, luckily I don't mean it's overheated completely and I've had to pull it over. But my temp meter fluctuates to pretty high temps after I've driven for about 25 minutes and/or am not moving. A few days after getting the valve cover gasket replaced, I noticed white smoke coming from my engine in the drive home but haven't had the problem since.
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Mar 9, 2020 22:13
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WerthersWay posted:Just curious as an auto idiot, why would low oil not not have something to do with it running hot? Unless the oil level is so low that the pickup tube in the pan is drawing air (which should illuminate the oil pressure light) the engine is still being lubricated, just sub-optimally. A few years ago my wife hit a particularly nasty pothole that caused her car's oil filter casing to rupture. Despite only driving it for about a mile and a half (during which it lost nearly all of the oil in the pan) afterwards the engine only lasted another few months of light driving before a rod started knocking - requiring replacement. It never exhibited overheating as a symptom of massive oil loss. And on top of all that, you could hypothetically run an engine without oil and unless it's air cooled the cooling system should be able to keep up with the heat caused by increased friction up until it seizes. Geoj fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Mar 9, 2020 |
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Mar 9, 2020 22:49
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Target Practice posted:LOL Jesus really? I mean I guess it is over 30 years old. I don't think that will help if you need it to pass CA emissions, unfortunately. They still enforce emissions laws on anything newer than 1974. And yeah, a photo of what's underhood now, and the reason for the fail, would both be beneficial. Looks like the original setup would have been either a LG4 or L69, with an E4ME "computer controlled" Quadrajet carb.
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Mar 9, 2020 22:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:I don't think that will help if you need it to pass CA emissions, unfortunately. They still enforce emissions laws on anything newer than 1974. Okay. It's got to come home with me regardless because the only other options are sell it or get a storage unit, which I'm certainly not doing. I would have to get an 8x20 ft unit, gently caress that noise.
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Mar 9, 2020 23:04
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