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Paul MaudDib posted:I mean, what's the alternative, finding a cheaper imacon? vuescan is an option too. but somehow nikonscan is less bad than vuescan, somehow.
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Feb 28, 2020 08:22
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Wild EEPROM posted:silverfast for nikon is $450. That would be one of the problems, yes.
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Feb 28, 2020 08:31
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I think my next project is to just construct some kind of bracket to "scan" my film with my a7iii. I just pulled my old Epson 3200 out of mothballs last week and it's not cooperating so it may be on the fritz.
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Feb 28, 2020 14:45
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It took me like 30min to load up my A1 properly, wow I suck. Why aren’t all canons QL
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Feb 28, 2020 15:52
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Does it have some bizzaro post-modern interpretation of the emotions of a film loader or just the usual slot in the takeup spool? Pentax M series cameras and up made a big deal about their "magic fingers" on the take up spool making it trivial to load but I've always found them to be fiddly compared to just shoving the leader in a slot and winding.
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Feb 28, 2020 21:42
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Sauer posted:Does it have some bizzaro post-modern interpretation of the emotions of a film loader or just the usual slot in the takeup spool? Pentax M series cameras and up made a big deal about their "magic fingers" on the take up spool making it trivial to load but I've always found them to be fiddly compared to just shoving the leader in a slot and winding. Yeah the magic fingers on my ME Super are fine enough but film doesn't need to be loaded with an angle of attack rather than the straightforward slot.
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Feb 28, 2020 22:23
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I never had a problem with my AE-1 Program, but this Canonet doesn't count backwards as you rewind the film, so I was scared the film wasn't rewound and had to open in under the blanket. Anyway here's a shot of the negatives from that second roll:  Yeah I got a new set of seal for like $8 vvv Arcella fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Feb 29, 2020 |
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Feb 28, 2020 22:47
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Looks like a leak at the door hinge. Simple enough to fix with a bit of thin foam.
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Feb 29, 2020 00:33
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Martytoof posted:I think my next project is to just construct some kind of bracket to "scan" my film with my a7iii. I just pulled my old Epson 3200 out of mothballs last week and it's not cooperating so it may be on the fritz. I've been using this mask from lomography together with a cheap ebay light table and it seems pretty OK: https://shop.lomography.com/en/digitaliza-120-scanning-mask I rig my camera on a tripod facing down onto the light table with the film holder, some extension tubes with the sony 24-105 gets me pretty good results.
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Feb 29, 2020 13:06
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I often struggle a bit loading 120 on to plastic patterson spools. Are the Arista Premium spools or the stainless steel ones a good upgrade over the standard patterson fair?
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Mar 2, 2020 03:05
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Have you tried clipping a little 45 degree bit off the corners of the film before loading it? I find that really helps getting it onto the reel.
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Mar 2, 2020 03:19
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I do that with 35mm. It works like a goddamn miracle.
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Mar 2, 2020 03:25
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if you have trouble loading a patterson reel oh boy are you in for a treat with stainless steel ones the best tips i cna give you for patterson reels is to make sure your reels are 100% completely dry, and also make sure the ball bearings inside spin freely. then after that if there's any issue it's really on you at that point
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Mar 2, 2020 03:43
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And wash your drat sweaty goon hands!
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Mar 2, 2020 03:58
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Yeah, I think my issue is a wet reel, once it gets started it's a bit sticky and likes to pop out of the starting tabs. It either goes smoothly or I become a sweaty annoyed mess with a cat loudly screaming at me
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Mar 2, 2020 04:09
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Sometimes a reel is like a usb stick, you have to rotate it 360 degrees for it to work.
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Mar 2, 2020 04:18
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I've been using stainless steel reels for ages and I still get mild anxiety hoping I didn't wind the film on wrong in a spot.
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Mar 2, 2020 04:23
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Looks like my E-6 chemicals have finally bit the dust, two rolls of ektachrome turned out a bit less dense and a lot grainer than I'd expect. I did get a lot of life out of them so can't complain.  
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Mar 3, 2020 09:41
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How much did you buy and how many rolls did you get out of the chems?
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Mar 3, 2020 12:56
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It was a 1L 3-bath E6 kit which I had been using for about 6 months and got the equivalent of about 9.5 rolls of film out of (mostly 4x5 sheets). I might try re-blixing some and see what that does, apparently excessive grain can be for blix exhaustion.
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Mar 3, 2020 18:15
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So my new-to-me Polaroid was developing with some lines so I cleaned the rollers as the internet says, wipe with a damp cloth, and I seem to have made it worse? (Left is before, middle is one clean, right is two cleans) Visually the rollers seem fine. There’s a few isolated spots of corrosion on the top roller that don’t seem to correlate to the stripes, and some marks on the ends that aren’t wiping off, but they don’t appear to overlap with the image.  Should I escalate to alcohol or is there something else I could try?
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Mar 4, 2020 00:02
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Hi thread. Took delivery of my minolta scanner yesterday. Trying to decide if I should go through the steps of getting their software to work with windows 10 or just spring for vuescan or silverfast. Anyone have any advice they’d care to share?
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Mar 4, 2020 01:39
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President Beep posted:Hi thread. Took delivery of my minolta scanner yesterday. Trying to decide if I should go through the steps of getting their software to work with windows 10 or just spring for vuescan or silverfast. Anyone have any advice they’d care to share? Is it the scan dual III? I have community made drivers that work on windows 10 perfectly fine. I can’t find the download link but I’ll dig around my pc and upload them somewhere.
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Mar 4, 2020 01:51
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polyester concept posted:Is it the scan dual III? I have community made drivers that work on windows 10 perfectly fine. I can’t find the download link but I’ll dig around my pc and upload them somewhere. It is! That’d be very cool of you. Thanks.
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Mar 4, 2020 01:52
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https://cp.sync.com/dl/a11085920/q945g5kn-44rc92fs-ujnhc9xd-y9qnbe3m download it, right click, and "install". Before doing that you will need to allow installation of unsigned drivers on your machine. you only need to do this once to install the driver, and then never again - https://www.maketecheasier.com/install-unsigned-drivers-windows10/
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Mar 4, 2020 01:56
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polyester concept posted:https://cp.sync.com/dl/a11085920/q945g5kn-44rc92fs-ujnhc9xd-y9qnbe3m Runs like a loving top. 
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Mar 4, 2020 03:04
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Hows pro image 100? I’m considering getting it to shoot portraits.
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Mar 4, 2020 20:44
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 Anyone got any idea what happened here? It was the last frame of the roll and it definitely sounded strange when I cranked it. This is what I got back from the lab. The camera internals look fine but I'm very new to film so I have no idea what would be the problem here. This was tri-x in a mamiya m645. The black bars shouldn't be there, what's with the white pill? What's the deal with the holes? Did I get a bad roll of film? Is my camera a murderer?
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Mar 7, 2020 11:23
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Did you get the film returned or just the scans? If this is the first or last frame, The white in the middle is probably a sticker tag with a number they (carelessly) stuck on to track which roll belongs to who. Normally that is closer to the end and should not be over the picture. You can see it if you have the film. The black bars is probably a scanning mask or scanninf issue
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Mar 7, 2020 11:39
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I got the film back and I just now took a look at the negatives, it looks like there was something weird going on with the winding of the film. Some frames being way too close, etc.
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Mar 7, 2020 15:21
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That definitely looks like a twin check sticker was on your negative and those holes are from the clips they use to hang your film.
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Mar 7, 2020 16:07
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Yep, it looks like it skipped an exposure somehow too in the middle of the roll. Basically shifting the last frame out to where it shouldn't be
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Mar 7, 2020 16:48
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https://www.instagram.com/p/B90-o5sHmoS/
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Mar 20, 2020 04:05
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So, my lab has closed for virus and I guess it's time to take the jump..is there a consensus on the best (easiest?) E-6 and C-41 kits?..for 120 & 4x5.
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Mar 21, 2020 07:01
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I use a tetnal C41 kit and it's really easy, only a 3 step process, but I do use my sous vide for temperature. Really C41 is a recipie to follow and so long as you can hit the right times and temperatures you'll have a good time.
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Mar 21, 2020 08:40
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As Megabound says, C41 is much of a muchness. I use the Cinestill kit for mine and it's very consistent. B&W is where personal preference comes into play more. I vastly prefer liquid developers, I don't want to be making up stock solutions and then decanting those for working solutions later. Rodinal (which is also available under a bunch of different tradenames such as R09, Fomadon, etc) is my preferred developer, although I've been using Ilford LC29 more recently as it's the most widely available here. Rodinal works much, much faster than pretty much any other developer, but this means that if you're using very grainy films, it tends to exaggerate the grain a little. You won't really notice it on anything slower than 800 speed though. Rodinal also has a shelf life measured in geological epochs, even after the seal has been cracked. That's handy if you don't shoot a lot of film, or if you have long gaps between.
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Mar 21, 2020 15:40
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Bah, local store has now closed and BH wont ship chemicals.
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Mar 21, 2020 19:48
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Bah, local store has now closed and BH wont ship chemicals. I’ve been eyeballing this vendor: https://filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-fpp-rapid-e6-slide-development-kit
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Mar 21, 2020 20:15
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I probably should've gone to Freestyle before they closed so I can practice B&W development. Oh well, just gotta wait 'til they open again.
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Mar 21, 2020 20:56
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| # ? May 10, 2024 03:44 |
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The lab has now re-opened, using their night drop off slot and pre-booked pick-ups. And I'm absolutely loving Velvia 100: 
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Mar 26, 2020 06:46
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